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Ya know, this does explain the disconnected disc I found in the tray during a subsequent cleaning... Today I try again.
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May 1, 2024 17:25
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Nerobro posted:Anyones experience with RatRig is not exactly relevant to the V-Core 4. It's a new printer entirely. I can relate my criticisms of the previous ratrig printers, but I don't believe they're relevant for the V-core 4. Thank you for your input! I only meant to compare Voron and Rat Rig as largish coreXY printers that are sold as kits (by third parties in case of Voron). On the surface the V-core 4 seems to address your critisism of the earlier generations, which is probably an indication that the critisism is accurate. I guess no one has a V-core 4 yet, so how it works out in practice remains to be seen.
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May 1, 2024 19:01
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I was going to get this until: $10/oz 3 month shelf life do not let it touch any part of you ever and the scary : open away from your face as it might become pressurized and explode out on opening the container. I read both good and bad about IPS Weld-On 16 or 3 or 4 i just dunno. Sockser posted:You're not going to get anything faster than superglue, other than superglue and an activator spray, which is near-instant and would give you zero time to align the two parts I have pins, but its a guide, it doesnt hold gaps together, and it doesnt help me set complex curves where i need to hold the bond for 20min pressing while superglue leaks out all over and is sliding around.
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May 1, 2024 20:26
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If you let CA accelerator dry, it still works and usually kicks a little bit slower. You also don't need to put it on the entire joint, just a couple of small spots is enough to fix the parts while the rest of the glue cures. I use Starbond products for just about everything I build that needs gluing.
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May 1, 2024 21:41
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Roundboy posted:I have pins, but its a guide, it doesnt hold gaps together, and it doesnt help me set complex curves where i need to hold the bond for 20min pressing while superglue leaks out all over and is sliding around. Are you using gel? I find it can take quite a while to cure, but the OG thin stuff sets in a few seconds.
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May 1, 2024 21:49
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Nerobro posted:Nero's measured opinoin on ratrig: Are you talking about yourself in the third person or do you mean the youtuber? 
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May 1, 2024 21:50
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deimos posted:Are you talking about yourself in the third person or do you mean the youtuber? Yeah, I was talking about myself in the 3rd person. I mean, I have a youtube channel, but I am not Nero3d. :-)
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May 1, 2024 22:14
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TerminalSaint posted:Are you using gel? I find it can take quite a while to cure, but the OG thin stuff sets in a few seconds. At this point I have had like 4 kinds and they might be tacky but still a mess and required me to hold things together way to long But the bullet on some thicker ca and accelerant so here we go I have a trex skull where the jaw is in parts and the tension of the rear attached to the rest causes the part to have a gap unless I get a very strong bond. And now I have a huge wearable Cubone skull that will be a nightmare to hold curves really nice together.. I don't want to play Bondo artisan all day
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May 1, 2024 22:43
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Roundboy posted:What is everyone's go to for quick, secure gluing ? Just use accelerator when using superglue. https://starbond.com/products/aerosol-accelerator
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May 1, 2024 23:04
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Roundboy posted:What is everyone's go to for quick, secure gluing ? It's not a couple mins of work time (it's maybe 5-10 seconds at most) but IPS-16 (by weld-on) is absolutely fantastic for PLA. It's the consistency of model airplane cement (a somewhat runny syrup in other words) and it loving locks PLA up like nobody's business. It's made for acrylics, but it works great on PLA. Super glue is great, but unlike super glue IPS-16 is gap-filling (and a hell of a lot cheaper by volume than anything like gel super glue) Towards the other end of the spectrum is E6000 glue. Doesn't cure super fast, but it's more forgiving. Also like IPS-16 those pieces ain't coming apart afterwards.
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May 1, 2024 23:26
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Roundboy posted:Trying to get two curved parts together w/ superglue leaves me with too much wiggle room, and i have to hold it in place for much longer then I want to. I also tried some model glue I found at hobby lobby that said to melt and weld plastic together, but it doesn't seem to work with PLA, or it takes a very long time. That hobby glue is only going to work on injection molded thermoplastics so it won't be of much use to you, sadly.
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May 1, 2024 23:32
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Roundboy posted:What is everyone's go to for quick, secure gluing ? e6000 or gorilla 2 part epoxy.
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May 1, 2024 23:36
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Roundboy posted:I have pins, but its a guide, it doesnt hold gaps together, and it doesnt help me set complex curves where i need to hold the bond for 20min pressing while superglue leaks out all over and is sliding around.
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May 1, 2024 23:40
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This tube says Astro Gl.... oh.
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May 1, 2024 23:54
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Important things to know about cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. pretty much anything sold as super glue or krazy glue): Cyanoacrylate needs water* to cure. Oxygen inhibits curing. Air contains both oxygen and water. This means that if you squeeze a blob of CA glue onto some surface, where it is exposed to both oxygen and atmospheric moisture, it will cure very slowly as water diffuses in but oxygen inhibits the reaction. If applied thickly, the outer layer of the glue will harden and prevent moisture from reaching the inner layers, so it will never fully cure! The right way to use superglue is to clamp the glued parts together tightly, excluding oxygen. Then the curing reaction proceeds quickly and completely. Gel-type gap-filling superglues cure much more slowly than the thin kind for this reason. I don't recommend gap-filling superglue in general if you can avoid it. This also means that the glue may not cure properly on surfaces with low moisture content. Totally impervious things like polyethylene, which also has low surface energy, don't glue well at all. You can improve the bond in many cases by slightly wetting the surface opposite the glue. Some substrates naturally contain more moisture than others: wood, cardboard, human skin. CA cures on these surfaces very quickly. Finally, it means that superglue has a shelf life once it's opened. The moisture in the air will trigger the reaction and the glue will harden in the bottle over a few months. There is no point in buying a huge bottle to save money unless you can use the whole thing in less than six months or so. Buy small amounts at a time, and put the container in an impervious bag with some of that silica gel desiccant if you want to try to extend its life. *technically it needs a source of hydroxyl ions, and water is a good source. But there are better sources, which is why there are other chemicals that can accelerate cyanoacrylate curing. I hope this has been helpful.
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May 2, 2024 01:06
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Well, looks like I"ll order that P1S now.
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May 2, 2024 03:12
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I had this once, resolved through lower lift speed and tightening up the build plate attachment
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May 2, 2024 03:57
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Failson posted:Well, looks like I"ll order that P1S now. Is that a Prusa XL tool head or something like it on another machine? Lol didn't tighten the nozzle?
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May 2, 2024 12:58
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I’ve had a number of successful prints in the week I’ve had my Neptune 4 Pro running but the other day I leave it running while I’m at work and was sent a picture of a mess of spaghetti. The nozzle head looks like this:  How bad is that, overall, like is this thing cleanable or busted and I need a new one? I didn’t have time to attempt a clean so I haven’t even tried but will tonight.
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May 2, 2024 14:16
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Should be fine. If it's pla, heat the tip to 120ish and take off the nozzle, then you can either discard it or take it to a propane torch (outside). Then heat it to 120-140 (enough for the pla to flow more freely), and scrape or paper towel the actual head, being extremely careful not to burn yourself, then again at whatever temp you print at (new paper towel). Not sure if possible, but take off the ducts and fans so you have more access. E to add: needless to say: pull the filament once you get it to cold pull temps. deimos fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 14:47
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Is that a Prusa XL tool head or something like it on another machine? It's a Monoprice MP10. Which was a rebadged Malyan MR10. It was cheap and had a big build volume, and did it's job well for a year and half. Not sure if the nozzle came loose or cracked, or what, I hadn't messed with it. Compatible replacement hotends are looking hard enough to source that I'll just junk it.
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May 2, 2024 16:36
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Sagebrush posted:Important things to know about cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. pretty much anything sold as super glue or krazy glue): This is everything about CA glue that I never knew I wanted to know.
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May 2, 2024 16:46
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Seriously. Goon infodumping is the best infodumping. Thank you, Sagebrush.
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May 2, 2024 16:59
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Synthbuttrange posted:I had this once, resolved through lower lift speed and tightening up the build plate attachment Yeah I sorted it out. I'm getting better at repeating my same steps each time and I ensured the plate was solidly mounted for my next attempt and it printed 100% correctly. Now I've got my first test print using structural supports done:  
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May 2, 2024 18:16
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deimos posted:Should be fine. If it's pla, heat the tip to 120ish and take off the nozzle, then you can either discard it or take it to a propane torch (outside). Then heat it to 120-140 (enough for the pla to flow more freely), and scrape or paper towel the actual head, being extremely careful not to burn yourself, then again at whatever temp you print at (new paper towel). I have tons of nozzles, so I'd just as soon chuck it just to make things easier. I'm really hoping that's all it takes, I wanna get back to printing asap. It's fun.  I made a happy, articulated crab. VVVV likewise thank you for helping ME and my babby's first printer. I gotta get this working, my 5 year old calls it the 'toy making machine' and he's enjoyed the output thus far MinionOfCthulhu fucked around with this message at 19:47 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 19:30
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Crap. I would have to recalibrate after changing the hotend, wouldn't I? I had to change it after a nozzle head broke off. Edit: Also, thank you all so much for dealing with me and babby's first 3D printer. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:46 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 19:40
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kid sinister posted:Crap. I would have to recalibrate after changing the hotend, wouldn't I? I had to change it after a nozzle head broke off. If you're referring to the z-offset, yeah it may need to be tweaked, but it should be pretty darn close to where it was before assuming you made a like-for-like swap. Did you replace the whole hotend? Or just the nozzle?
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May 2, 2024 19:54
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armorer posted:If you're referring to the z-offset, yeah it may need to be tweaked, but it should be pretty darn close to where it was before assuming you made a like-for-like swap. Did you replace the whole hotend? Or just the nozzle? Both. I broke the tip off the old nozzle.
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May 2, 2024 19:57
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If I have some pre-made models from Thingiverse and I want to add circular pedestal bases to them (so that small children can use them more easily), what is the best method to do that? Is that something I can do as a simple addition before slicing it in the software (Voxeldance Tango), or do I need to add that kind of thing in another interface prior to using that application?
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May 2, 2024 21:21
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:If I have some pre-made models from Thingiverse and I want to add circular pedestal bases to them (so that small children can use them more easily), what is the best method to do that? Is that something I can do as a simple addition before slicing it in the software (Voxeldance Tango), or do I need to add that kind of thing in another interface prior to using that application? I haven't used Voxeldance Tango but most slicers will allow you to position two models together so they overlap and the output will obviously be a single model.
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May 2, 2024 21:23
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Ok so it's just a matter of importing a disc and slapping them together. I think I can do that. Should I still do an angled print so that only the support structure is fused to the build plate or is it okay to go completely parallel and have the pedestal directly against the build plate? Honestly I prefer doing it at an angle because it's way easier to pop it off the plate than when it's the entire model all attached fully, but I don't mind doing it if it results in a better print.
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May 2, 2024 21:27
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Cura/prusa/bambu/orca etc should let you add a disc directly in the slicer and merge the models together when you slice.
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May 3, 2024 03:50
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voxeldance tango literally just patched out wifi printing so they can 'optimize it' so they can eat my poo poo and hair
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May 3, 2024 04:06
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I've never heard of that software until now and I already don't like it.
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May 3, 2024 04:57
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Voxeldance bases Tango's pricing on how many prints they allow to you to output per month. It's loving ridiculous, and I'm actually quite surprised to see anyone using it.
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May 3, 2024 14:16
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Do they even have features worth paying for? We already had Simplify From the website: "The professional All-in-One build preparation software solutions for leaders and future leaders willing to innovate and succeed." lolfuckingwhat? Are you selling this on LinkedIn? AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 14:33 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 14:28
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hell yes
queeb fucked around with this message at 14:46 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 14:44
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I'm using it because it came with the printer w/ a license. 
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May 3, 2024 14:50
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queeb posted:hell yes Imagine talking to the self of, like, two years ago and saying, "Oh by the way you're going to be dropping $1,483 on an order. Nah it's no biggie, that's just the operating costs."
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May 3, 2024 14:50
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bird food bathtub posted:Imagine talking to the self of, like, two years ago and saying, "Oh by the way you're going to be dropping $1,483 on an order. Nah it's no biggie, that's just the operating costs." lol reading my post history from like 2 years ago is pretty funny "how the gently caress do i do this calibration cube" edit: though the first thing i did was make dungeon tiles and that pretty much kickstarted my etsy journey so yeah, fun to scroll back, im glad I've been liveblogging stuff here haha queeb fucked around with this message at 15:13 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 14:59
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