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Leperflesh posted:thanks, This is a good plan. May I suggest that she install a few CO detectors in the unlikely event that the heat exchanger does in fact crack and start leaking.
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May 8, 2024 14:32
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I live in a freestanding home in Pennsylvania. During most storms the gutters act normally and drain water without overtopping. During the spring and summer months we can have afternoon/night thunderstorms that dump gobs of rain in short amounts of time and the gutters overtop (last night we got 0.4 inches of rain in 20 minutes with a peak intensity of 1.7 inch/hr). Is this something to be concerned about? We don't have issues with water in the basement and the landscaping all slopes away from the home. I blow/vacuum out the gutters after leaf fall and maple seeds drop, but it doesn't totally solve the issue.
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May 8, 2024 16:36
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Unless you're having actual problems you're just experiencing 95th percentile gutters and that's okay. They'd have to be exceptionally huge to handle 100% of the weather. Your basement waterproofing and/or drainage tile should be making up for the rest of what the gutters occasionally can't handle.
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May 8, 2024 16:55
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PainterofCrap posted:This is a good plan. May I suggest that she install a few CO detectors in the unlikely event that the heat exchanger does in fact crack and start leaking. She has a brand new one I think but I'll verify, very good advice
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May 8, 2024 17:25
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Motronic posted:Anything is possible, but will be charged. Where it's at is what the provider has determined to be the MPOE (minimum point of entry) and what you are looking for is called an extended demarc. Is that something I have a contractor handle, or do I call the ISP for it?
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May 8, 2024 18:03
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In general I'd say use a cabling contractor. Some telcos are better about it than others so you might want to use them during an intial install. But after the fact you almost definitely want a contractor.
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May 8, 2024 18:07
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Just make sure it's an electrician who actually knows how to handle fiber. Seen plenty that think you can pull it the same way you pull copper.
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May 8, 2024 23:45
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"Electricians who know how to handle fiber" are called cabling contractors. And I don't think there is any reason to extend the existing demarc with fiber and move the ONT. Leave that where it is attached with the provider's fiber. Moving that or extending it will make troubleshooting harder (and you're probably not allowed to/they don't want you to because that ONT is THEIR Customer Premise Equipment. Not yours.). Nothing past the ONT is fiber, so just extend the ethernet or coax required to whatever devices need it. If we're talking a typical "modem" device that has coax and ethernet ports it's attached to the ONT with coax (MOCA) so that's all that would need to be run between the demarc and the new equipment location. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:04 on May 9, 2024 |
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May 8, 2024 23:59
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Well, if it was coming in to like the living room then I would have to put a modem or similar there and wire it back into the wall via Ethernet to a router in a closet panel.. and then back to everywhere else. Alternatively would be that all hardware is in the same location and panel.
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May 9, 2024 00:09
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As a former cable guy please don't have a contractor touch your drop unless specifically told, talk to ISP first they will likely be able to do it and it'll be cheaper than a contractor.
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May 9, 2024 01:02
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Opopanax posted:As a former cable guy please don't have a contractor touch your drop unless specifically told, talk to ISP first they will likely be able to do it and it'll be cheaper than a contractor. I'm not going to pretend to know who you are or who your worked for, but in my area "cable guys" who do installs are lowest bidder contractors driving 90s Rangers and S10s with magnet mount signs and a dewalt drill with a 2 foot long 1/2" drill bit. So your advice, while it might be very good where you used to work, is total poo poo where I live.
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May 9, 2024 01:23
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Ultimately motronic is probably right that the best answer is to leave the ONT where it is and extend via copper to a network closet or enclosure somewhere. You could go through all the trouble of extending the fiber just to relocate the ONT, but it's a single device that's happy to live on it's own. Your copper outlets can still all run back to a central point where your router and switch live.
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May 9, 2024 01:34
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Motronic posted:I'm not going to pretend to know who you are or who your worked for, but in my area "cable guys" who do installs are lowest bidder contractors driving 90s Rangers and S10s with magnet mount signs and a dewalt drill with a 2 foot long 1/2" drill bit. So your advice, while it might be very good where you used to work, is total poo poo where I live. Like, even if they're coming into the house and installing equipment there? That seems bizarre and not at all cost effective but who the hell knows with big corps. In Canada they're employed by the ISPs (well, they technically are considered contractors but they're contractors who work directly with and for the ISP, it's just a tax thing) Even still, calling and asking the provider first is going to be the way to go, worst case they say "Call a contractor"
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May 9, 2024 02:51
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IME I’m the US, if the wire/box that needs moving is thru AT&T, they will send an actual ATT employee in a uniform that knows what he’s doing and he will very happily move the thing and there’s a good chance it won’t cost you anything. If you call the cable company they will send a jackleg with a ladder falling out of the bed of their pickup truck and they will drill 7 holes in your wall and not caulk any of them closed and charge you $150 for the privilege. So depending on your provider, you can probably expect wildly different experiences.
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May 9, 2024 03:07
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Your av is making me crave a decent schnitzel. It's been ages.
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May 9, 2024 03:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:IME I’m the US, if the wire/box that needs moving is thru AT&T, they will send an actual ATT employee in a uniform that knows what he’s doing and he will very happily move the thing and there’s a good chance it won’t cost you anything. If you call the cable company they will send a jackleg with a ladder falling out of the bed of their pickup truck and they will drill 7 holes in your wall and not caulk any of them closed and charge you $150 for the privilege. So depending on your provider, you can probably expect wildly different experiences. I'd second this, I hate on ATT for sure, but IME their techs are knowledgeable, do good work, and I've never been charged for it.
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May 9, 2024 03:52
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Had some questions on weed whackers. My 10 year old Black and Decker battery unit was never great. Always took an overnight charge for the battery (10 hours on average) and then would only hold enough charge to run for maybe 1/2 hour. Usually have to break up the front and back yard across 2 days with charging in-between. We're not talking trying to cut through branches or reeds either, just grass along the fence line that the mower can't get to. I replaced the battery once in that time, thinking maybe the first just couldn't hold a charge, but same results with the second battery. So, I'm looking to replace. Looked at gas powered units, but those were crazy heavy, except for the cheapest Craftsman, which I didn't like because the main pole comes apart so you can switch different tools if needed. I'm completely new to small gas engines like that, where it needs a gas and oil mix. Are the 50:1 mixes, "for small engines", sold on the shelves the correct fuel to use? (None of the packaging said what the ratio was, just that they needed gas + oil). One the one hand, the convenience of just grabbing the thing off the pegboard, and going to work seems like a bonus, but as I'm typing this out, getting the gas/oil mix, needing a pull start, the additional weight of the engine, and (from what I could tell from holding the thing in store) maybe having a hot engine right next to my arms while working, are all talking me out of going with gas. Did I just purchase a bad model of battery powered weed whacker a decade ago? Has the technology improved in that time? If I'm not doing heavy work, are battery models good enough? Is there any reason to go with gas?
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May 9, 2024 14:19
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CzarChasm posted:Did I just purchase a bad model of battery powered weed whacker a decade ago? CzarChasm posted:Has the technology improved in that time? Yes. CzarChasm posted:If I'm not doing heavy work, are battery models good enough? Very much so. CzarChasm posted:Is there any reason to go with gas? Sure. Small engines are pretty simple but if you're a very casual/light user you can get burned by a gunked up carb or spark plug issue right when you make time to do some chores, which you will never have to deal with if you go electric. Some people might think those are easy problems to diagnosis, and they are once you get comfortable in that world. Managing the gas/oil mix is pretty simple -- but honestly for smaller yard tools I'm personally trying to go to all electric. Which becomes the biggest decision to make, what family of tools do you want to go with. Because once you get a battery powered tool you start to look at other battery powered tools by the same company and next thing you have a whole shed of robots.
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May 9, 2024 14:51
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I like my Ryobi 40v weed whacker.
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May 9, 2024 14:55
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I know we're talking weed wackers but do NOT go 40v Ryobi for a mower. Mine just died after 2 years, the blade won't spin up but batteries are good and the self driving and LEDs work, and I was on hold for more than 2 hours yesterday with customer service with no one picking up. If you look online seems tons of Ryobi mowers are dying after a couple years. Back to gas it is for a mower
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May 9, 2024 15:29
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Been using my Makita for years now. One 5Ah battery lasts me several sessions.
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May 9, 2024 15:47
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my friends absolutely love their EGO battery powered yard stuff
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May 9, 2024 16:10
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another suggestion for a different company lol I own a ton of milwaukee m18 and m12 tools and love my string trimmer. you can even get a pole saw attachment for it too lol
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May 9, 2024 16:27
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Yeah I’ve got an ego mower and whacker for a few years and they’ve been great. Plus the box fan they make runs for loving ever even on the smaller batteries, great if you’re sitting in the heat for a long time
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May 9, 2024 16:29
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I am on year 7 of my Ego mower. runs great. I have 2 batteries and had to replace one battery after 4 years. So currently i use a 3 and a 7 year 5 amp hour battery. no issues whatsoever.
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May 9, 2024 16:35
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CzarChasm posted:Had some questions on weed whackers. My 10 year old Black and Decker battery unit was never great. Always took an overnight charge for the battery (10 hours on average) and then would only hold enough charge to run for maybe 1/2 hour. This is undoubtedly a heavy, low capacity nicad battery or similar. All the new lion stuff is a whole different world. You're getting good advice, but I wanted to point this one out specifically. You almost can't go wrong anymore with batteries. Just maximize the ecosystem you're buying into as others are saying.
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May 9, 2024 16:45
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DoubleT2172 posted:I know we're talking weed wackers but do NOT go 40v Ryobi for a mower. Mine just died after 2 years, the blade won't spin up but batteries are good and the self driving and LEDs work, and I was on hold for more than 2 hours yesterday with customer service with no one picking up. If you look online seems tons of Ryobi mowers are dying after a couple years. Back to gas it is for a mower Good to know. I have a Ryobi 18v mower that's fine, however it's juuust man enough to manage my 1/10th of an acre. I don't mow super often - like every 2 weeks, but the grass doesn't usually get super super long in that time. I have 2x 9Ah batteries and sometimes I can do the whole lot in one go but usually not. I was considering a 40v one because I got a 40v snowblower so I have a bunch of big batteries to run that. The snowblower has been good though the cable to adjust the throw angle became disconnected or broke which is a bit of a pain. Guess I'll stay away from the mowers.
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May 9, 2024 17:09
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The Dave posted:I do have to say my 12 year old Toro Recycler with a B&S engine is the most abused tool I own and it just refuses to have any real problems. I've sheared a flywheel key twice, ripped the starter rope, maybe a belt once? Outside of that I have never touched the air filter or given it a proper oil change and it's never refused to start or run smoothly. I had a Yard Machines old-shool-ish B&S for over 20 years, gifted to me, almost new, by my brother-in-law when we bought the house. I transitioned to a Ryobi electric in 2022, no regrets. Lighter, quieter, and fold up to store smaller. That said, the B&S gave me very little trouble. Changed the oil yearly, cleaned the air filter a few times a year, spark plug when I felt like it needed it, and a few little service items like the carb gasket and a automatic throttle spring. I did have to replace the front drive wheels - completely wore through the tires. With the Ryobi, I don't need self-propelled, it's so light. The Dave posted:Maybe. If it's an older NiCad model, like, say, a B&D Firestorm tool, there are adapters that will let you use the modern 20V Max Lithium Ion battery packs on them. Makes a world of difference. Adapter is about $20, and of course you will need a new charger and battery. Perversely, sometimes it's more cost effective to buy a new tool (like, a drill/driver) with battery and charger, especially if there's a sale. I've repowered my old Firestorm tools this way (even the 24V one's work fine on the nominally-18V "20V Max" packs, albeit a little slower/less powerful. The 14V ones go gangbusters...) That said, my primary tools are Ryobi, and I have a Ryobi One+ (18V tool packs) string trimmer that works great on my 0.2 acre yard using 4.0Ah battery packs. Uses maybe half the battery pack. Also, if it's already a Li-Ion tool, there are lots of adapters to other Li-Ion packs, or you may just need a new/bigger battery. DoubleT2172 posted:I know we're talking weed wackers but do NOT go 40v Ryobi for a mower. Mine just died after 2 years, the blade won't spin up but batteries are good and the self driving and LEDs work, and I was on hold for more than 2 hours yesterday with customer service with no one picking up. If you look online seems tons of Ryobi mowers are dying after a couple years. Back to gas it is for a mower WHELP. Guess I get to find out for myself in <checks notes> oh, 9 days.
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May 9, 2024 17:24
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WhatEvil posted:Good to know. I have a Ryobi 18v mower that's fine, however it's juuust man enough to manage my 1/10th of an acre. I don't mow super often - like every 2 weeks, but the grass doesn't usually get super super long in that time. I have 2x 9Ah batteries and sometimes I can do the whole lot in one go but usually not.
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May 9, 2024 18:30
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I’ve got an 18V blower, weedwhacker, and hedge trimmer to go along with all the rest of my ryobi tools. They’re all completely adequate tools. You can usually find excellent deals on just the tools (that is, without a battery or charger) refurbed or lightly used on eBay. It’s a good way to accumulate more tools for less cost. You don’t ever really need more than 2, maybe 3 batteries if they’re < 4mAh capacity. All that said, when I move to my future 1+ acre dream property, I’m upgrading all my poo poo to Milwaukee and/or Ego stuff. I especially prefer my dad’s Milwaukee hand tools to the ryobi stuff I have.
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May 9, 2024 19:11
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Man if I had an acre that'd probably be the point I'd want a ride-on mower. I have the 18v Ryobi wheedwhacker and leaf blower too. I dunno, the whacker is decent, but the blower... it *does* move leaves but it's not great at it. I've found that when my wife and I are both out clearing leaves, and she's using the blower and I'm using a rake, the rake is more effective and actually less effort than farting around with the blower. Probably wouldn't be the case with a gas or 40v blower. I can't exactly call it a *bad* tool but I would say it just about meets the minimum requirement for being a functioning leaf blower. Oh well honestly the tool itself is very cheap - less than $100 Canadian, if you already have the batteries. I actually got mine as part of a set with the mower, whacker and blower, plus I think it was 2x 4Ah batteries, for like $400CAD a few years ago, which seemed a good deal at the time. If you already have some 40V batteries, definitely get the 40V blower (though I haven't actually used it, I have to believe it's gonna be more effective). It's $150CAD currently so not too much more than the 18v one. I guess if you're physically unable to move leaves with a rake etc. and you just want something cheap and easy then I'd still recommend the 18v one.
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May 9, 2024 19:20
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I have Ryobi battery tools, loads of them, and have had no complaints. For my mower though I have a plug-in electric, which could be a huge hassle for someone with a lot of trees and obstacles but for me it works great, my entire yard is within 100' of the outlet so a heavy duty outdoor extension cord works and getting the knack of moving the cord around and not mowing over it took like ten minutes of fumbling and then it's been fine for 14 years now. Just throwing that in there that if you want to go with the main 18v things and not bother with one single 40v thing that's an option. I have six 18v batteries now, including a third party one that seems to be doing fine, I've trashed two now since I started investing in ryobi stuff about 10 years ago, one the plastic around the contacts melted and the other stopped holding a charge, but for the most part they've lasted a long time and most of them I got bundled with a tool which is way cheaper than buying them individually.
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May 9, 2024 19:30
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I've got the ridgid stuff. Pretty impressed with the blower and string trimmer, though they're only 18V so I think you need to run the higher Ah batteries to compensate. Edited: I misspoke. tuyop fucked around with this message at 20:43 on May 9, 2024 |
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May 9, 2024 20:02
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Be aware that ryobi has blowers from, like, 90 CFM up to 350 or 400 CFM at the high end of the 18V. Pretty sure mine is 350 and it does a swell job of handling grass clippings etc.
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May 9, 2024 20:24
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I sold my house mid-April, after moving across the country in February. As part of the lead-up to the house sale, the sewer lateral was replaced (as required by the city). My real estate agent coordinated with the contractors that did that work, as well as other workers who did various fixups inside and outside the house (painting, replacing vanities, putting mulch over the weeds, etc). The sewer lateral work was paid for by both parties, a 50/50 split. To my knowledge, the only other work done on the house that touched on any water-related stuff was replacing the upstairs bathroom's vanity. I just got my last water bill from the water utility...for $645, because somehow the house used up around 24000 gallons of water (32CCF). I am, of course, getting separate stories from my agent and from the sewer lateral people. The agent claims that they didn't turn the water off when they opened up the sewer lateral, that there was water in the back yard, that they must have cut the main water line going to the house...he's a real estate agent, I very much doubt he's an expert on the topic. The contractors claim that when they opened the sewer lateral, they found water flowing through it, implying that somewhere in the house, there was water continuously flowing to a drain, which they weren't able to find. They contacted both agents involved to let them know (my agent says that they only contacting the buying agent, whatever). They used a pump to keep the workspace clear while they worked, but of course that wouldn't stop water once they seal things up and leave. I can't inspect the site, and of course don't even own the house any more. My main thoughts are: 1. The sewer lateral people should have cut off the main water supply to the house. They had no obligation to do so of course, but it would have saved water, and nobody was living in it at the time anyway. The water shutoff is on the outside of the house, not terribly hard to find. 2. I can't see how their actions could have created a leak. I don't know the exact positioning of the pipes involved, but they were working in the front yard...surely if they damaged the water supply to the house, it'd be on the "street side" of the meter? I know my options for actually clawing back money on this are pretty limited, but I'm curious what y'all think is possible as an explanation for what happened.
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May 9, 2024 22:04
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With yard tools I think everybody sells multiple lines. I got the next-to-worst Ego hedge trimmer when I had hedges to trim and it ate 'em just fine. My neighbor had the bottom-of-the-line one and it stuttered and poo poo itself a few times per hedge trim just from small branches and leaf buildup. Got to the point where I just trimmed her hedges for her, then when I moved I gave her the better trimmer outright. Read reviews, make sure that they're for the exact tool you intend to buy. I got my Ego stuff (hedge trimmer and string trimmer) at Ace, they usually have a massive sale on Ego tool+battery kits at least twice a year. I think all told I spent under $200 for 2 tools and 2 batteries and they were quite good.
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May 10, 2024 00:00
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 Replacing the cartridge on my Moen shower/tub faucet. The old one was pretty stubborn coming out and took a good amount of force to get moving at all. And then it, uh, broke... Any idea what I should do to get the rest out?
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May 10, 2024 01:18
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Feel free to point me elsewhere if there's a better thread for this: I'm moving into a new lab space with some weird space constrictions and I don't want to have to bring a compressor in unless I have to. That fume hood has barbed hookups like so:  I unfortunately need to swap hoses to the same air line to run a few different pieces of equipment in sequence, where the compressor has two quick connectors. Is there any kind of normal/obvious solution to barbed hookups other than just repeatedly jamming and yanking the hose off? I half considered just attaching a short length with a quick connect and leaving it to dangle, but maybe there's a better option.
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May 10, 2024 02:16
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Synnr posted:Feel free to point me elsewhere if there's a better thread for this: Could you do a short length to some kind of a/b switch and have two feeding from there?
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May 10, 2024 04:18
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Synnr posted:a short length with a quick connect and leaving it to dangle, . We have this in our hood, it's fine. If it's in the way you can pull it off the barb
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May 10, 2024 13:52
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