|
 My parents found a new puppy and are keeping her as long as she isn't chipped and nobody claims her. Some kind of corgi and australian sheepdog mix I think. They are going to run out of room in the house if they keep taking in every animal that comes by, but she's cute.
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2014 19:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:32 |
|
|
Murphy Brownback posted:
She looks pretty much like an Australian Cattle Dog to me. Lovely red mask, very striking. She'll be a handful of fun!
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2014 06:07
|
|
|
I'd agree that's a cattledog. They are the best dogs  (I may be biased because I have two)
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2014 15:27
|
|
|
I posted awhile ago about my puppy's resource guarding against other dogs (here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3471773&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=101#post436602309). I gave it some time, and we haven't had too many opportunities to test it, but in the last week there have been a couple of incidents that make me nervous. It's only food-related, and only with dogs, not people - she's clearly worried that they'll eat her meal/treat/bully/etc. If a dog that she is otherwise friendly with gets within, say, a foot or two of her when she has or is waiting for a meal or treat (or if she's chewing a bully or playing with a puzzle toy stuffed with kibble), she suddenly starts snarling and snapping and gets this crazed look on her face. She hasn't hurt anyone, and I don't know if she intends to, but it's very startling to me and I assume to the other dog. I scoop her up, say NO sternly, take the item away, and hold her tightly until she calms down (not sure if this counts as rewarding her? she doesn't mind being held but would usually rather be free to run around - and I want to keep her away from the other dog until she's calm). The calming down takes a few seconds. Once the item in question is gone she'll go back to playing with the other dog like nothing happened. She's otherwise SUCH a friendly dog, and this week's incidents are making me nervous about her having anything edible around other dogs (or being around dogs who might) - I don't want to find out the hard way if this escalates further. She's my only dog, although we hang out with a few others at work on a regular basis. Any ideas on how to gradually train her out of this without subjecting other dogs to her going nuts on them?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2014 05:03
|
|
|
biggest platypus posted:I posted awhile ago about my puppy's resource guarding against other dogs (here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3471773&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=101#post436602309). I gave it some time, and we haven't had too many opportunities to test it, but in the last week there have been a couple of incidents that make me nervous. It's only food-related, and only with dogs, not people - she's clearly worried that they'll eat her meal/treat/bully/etc. If a dog that she is otherwise friendly with gets within, say, a foot or two of her when she has or is waiting for a meal or treat (or if she's chewing a bully or playing with a puzzle toy stuffed with kibble), she suddenly starts snarling and snapping and gets this crazed look on her face. She hasn't hurt anyone, and I don't know if she intends to, but it's very startling to me and I assume to the other dog. I scoop her up, say NO sternly, take the item away, and hold her tightly until she calms down (not sure if this counts as rewarding her? she doesn't mind being held but would usually rather be free to run around - and I want to keep her away from the other dog until she's calm). The calming down takes a few seconds. Once the item in question is gone she'll go back to playing with the other dog like nothing happened. She's otherwise SUCH a friendly dog, and this week's incidents are making me nervous about her having anything edible around other dogs (or being around dogs who might) - I don't want to find out the hard way if this escalates further. With food resource guarding, you don't want to take the treat away from her while she's reacting. It could transfer to you, and it reinforces that the other dog is a threat to her stuff (since it gets taken away). This is the opposite of what we do when dogs resource guard people, because we can up and leave the room without risking any redirection. I would also refrain from picking her up, because it leaves her with less control over the situation. Right now, manage. No bully sticks or long-lasting treats when there's the possibility of another dog around - stick her in a covered crate and proactively deter other dogs from coming up to her if it's necessary. She doesn't have any escape in the crate, so you shouldn't let dogs approach anyway. She's been telling you that she doesn't like other dogs in her face while she's eating, and I think that's a reasonable position for a dog to have. Your end goal is not for her to blissfully reenact the Lady and the Tramp spaghetti scene, it's for her to clearly communicate with other dogs 'this is mine and I don't want you here' without going into hysterics or to choose to disengage with the stuff on the floor for something even better from you. Proof your recall and leave it and keep good treats on your person if you're in a situation where someone else might have a chew out and available. To start blunting the severity of her reaction and changing what she anticipates when another dog is nearby, work in tandem with someone else so that both dogs get treats simultaneously for well-known controlled behaviors (sit/down/stay) at a parallel distance of 10 feet and shrink down until you can do something like asking both dogs to sit and giving them both treats (simultaneously). Make working in tandem or near another dog pay significantly better than working alone, keep sessions short and keep it at a level where she's under threshold. If she does react, put on your best fake sunny disposition, say 'let's go' and move with her away from the other dog so that she can calm down (and get more treats, although at the normal payscale). If you can get her working side by side with another dog for simultaneous treats, you can work up to a treat for each dog sequentially (very carefully), treating dogs out of different hands and staggering your timing a bit. I would probably randomly double up on her treats during this exercise - she gets one treat for the sit and another treat for the other dog getting a treat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2014 06:14
|
|
|
We're taking our dog camping this weekend for the first time. We're going on a two night canoe trip in south Florida. Its a little last minute, we were going to leave her with friends but changed our minds this morning. She's never been in a canoe but she's been out in the surf at the beach a bit so she can swim OK. She often hangs out on a body board with us in the water and seems to be OK with it but we are borrowing a doggie life vest for her anyway. She's a 10 month old, 30lb black lab mix puppy. Just wanted to sanity check our preparations with the goon knowledge base: - The canoe outfitters welcomes dogs - There are some alligators in the river, but the outfitters we're renting from have never had a problem with alligators taking pets. That said we'll keep her away from the river unattended and always on a leash. - We're going to keep her on a leash in the boat and on a long rope tied near us when we're at the campsites. I don't want to run the risk of letting her go free on this trip and trying to eat an alligator. - She's going to sleep inside our tent, we'll bring a foam sleeping mat from her crate. Its only going to get down to ~50 degrees at night so she should be fine temperature wise I think? - We're taking her regular food and plenty of water, along with some really good treats and chews. - We'll take towels etc to dry her off and clean her filthy paws before she gets in the tent too. Missing anything? Some specific questions: We have her on Trifexis which doesn't guard against ticks. We don't have her on any other tick medication. Is there a recommended brand of tick medication or a tick collar we can use for this trip? Preferably something we can get from Petsmart since I don't necessarily want to go to the vet to get one (but will if I should). The area doesn't seem to have lyme disease from looking at maps online. Any tips for getting her used to the canoe? Since we're renting canoes we won't have time to acclimate her to them beforehand. I was just going to ply her with treats for the first little while until she's used to it and stays calm. If she jumps out she'll be on a leash I'll wrap it around my foot and stand on it or something. Outfitters already advised against tying her up to the boat. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Dec 8, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2014 22:19
|
|
|
Okay, puppy got here safe, and she's pretty good... except her TERRIBLE separation anxiety. She bonded to me basically instantly because I'm the one in charge of her training and the INSTANT I leave the room, whether she's in her crate, tethered to a spot, or with my husband, she FLIPS THE gently caress OUT. Crying and wailing at first, but then it escalates, especially in the crate, to attempting to rip up bedding and destroy the thing from the inside out. I have no idea what to do about this. PLEASE HELP, PI. I can't leave her sight for a single second before she starts freaking out, and this is bad because, obviously, at some point I'm going to have to leave her alone. Right now I'm sleeping on a mattress on the floor near her crate so we can get some sleep. She's been with us for about 48 hours at this point, so hopefully it's not too late to convince her that the world isn't going to loving end if she can't see me. Here's the obligatory picture of her. She is soft like a bunny. For those not willing to look 10 posts back, she's a 14 week old Pyr/Aussie mix. Except for when I'm out of her sight, she's chill as hell, just like my old Pyr. If we're out and about, like at the vet's or something, and I'm doing some kind of business she'll sit for about a minute, then realize she's not going anywhere for a while and lay down. I loving love a chill-rear end dog.  
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2014 23:34
|
|
|
We're doing a 1 week trial period with a 2 year old dog that apparently has never been homebroken jesus christ. We were told that he'll sometimes go because he 'doesn't know how to let you know he needs to peepee!' but nope. We're doing the crate timer method from the OP and right after a walk where he peed several times, in the 2s it took for me to slip off my sandals he managed to squirt a bit on my hardwood floors. At least it wasn't carpet. This dog just likes to mark EVERYTHING every single second of the day. He's only had the one accident, but it's seriously like if he's not in the crate or on our laps, he's probably going to try to pee somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2014 00:51
|
|
|
Dog canoe / camping trip report. It was an awesome trip. Drove up and camped friday night, paddled saturday, camped again and paddled out/drove home sunday. The first night we arrived at midnight, and as we were setting up our tents we were joined by a strange dog who wanted to play/mount our dog. He was some sort of bully breed mix, probably about 50-60lbs and young / playful. Our dog is a lady and has control over her own body, didn't want any of what he was selling, and dominated the poo poo out of him despite being only 10 months old and weighing 30lbs. They played for a good two hours while we set up and drank beer around a campfire so she was exhausted and passed out in my lap later which was the only way to get the other dog to leave her alone for more than 30 seconds. The next morning we took off paddling, the dog was good in the canoe for the most part. She got antsy after a while of nothing but sitting watching the world go by (and needing to go pee), and actually jumped out once so after that we made regular stops along the river bank for her to run around and burn off some energy which worked.  I didn't get any good photos on my phone so I may come back and update this for a better shot later. She had her own life jacket and looked dashing. What I think were high points for the dog: - Didn't get eaten by gators. (There was plenty of gators, though we didn't see any near our camp) - Chased the poo poo out of some birds. - Ate lots of tasty human food and got a ton of treats while in the boat. - Drank out of the river, but didn't get any stomach upset. - Met a few new people and got to travel with the pack for two days. She was so knackered by the end of the second day that she slept by the fire as soon as it got dark / cold, and then just collapsed into unconsciousness as soon she got into the tent. She slept at our feet on top of the sleeping bag. It was fairly cold (low of high 30s) for the second night so we draped a dry towel over her and she seemed OK, maybe a bit cold. In both of the mornings we pulled her into the sleeping bag with us and she was incredibly grateful and happy. I thought she would freak out over the sounds of animals walking around outside at night, but we didn't have any problems. One thing I was really happy about was how well she bonded with the group. She hasn't been that great about meeting new people in the past but once she knows someone she is their best friend for life. She met 4 new people and she made friends much quicker than we expected. Not only that, but when their canoes passed out of sight or we got too far away from them, she looked for them and started wagging her tail when she saw them again. She'd also stand up on the side of the canoe to get petted when we passed by folks close enough. We did some boat to boat dog transfers also but she only really wanted to ride with my wife and I. We had her on a tether the first day and during both nights but on Sunday let her roam free. She defended the camp ground - didn't stray too far and even accompanied people on toilet trips to stand guard. Just had to keep an eye on her when she ventured near the river so as she didn't get too close because of gators, but she seemed to get the message pretty quick. No ticks (on her, I got bit by one) so that was good. The only thing I would do differently next time is bring a ~2' square sheet of 1/2" plywood to keep her off the bottom of the canoe and give her somewhere dry to sit. There was plenty of room in the boat for that. We bought her sleeping mat but it got wet in the first few hours and no good. Didn't want her perched on top of our supplies in the middle as it would be too hard to grab her in case a bird flew by or something on shore grabbed her attention.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2014 15:43
|
|
|
Puppy question: So my 4 month old Border Collie puppy is 90% housetrained with a bell and everything. He has an occasional accident but it tends to be in a place he's unfamiliar with and he is usually subtly asking to be let out anyways. Totally understandable and that's not his fault. However, at home we have a denim-like bed for him that he doesn't seem to understand is not OK to pee on. There's no liner inside it because I took it out before we even got him because I anticipated there would be accidents during potty training. Every time he urinates on it, I put it through the washer with laundry soap , dry it in the dryer (no dryer sheets or anything) and put it back out. I was pretty lazy with getting it back out to him lately and there were absolutely no accidents in the house at all for a good week. Yesterday I finally put the bed back out and he urinated on it in the span of 4-5 hours. e: This is while we're supervising him, it doesn't seem to be a matter of us being there or not. We don't really leave him unsupervised outside of his crate. I don't think he's trying to mark his territory or anything because he doesn't urinate on the bed as soon as it comes back. It's just seems like when he'd normally go ring the bell he beelines it for the bed. Any suggestions? I'd like to have the bed out for him but when it's not there he just hangs out on our rugs instead (but hasn't ever peed on them) so it doesn't seem like a big loss. He sleeps in a crate at night the bed is just where he can when we're at home if he wants. Have a photo of him "playing" with my parents dogs: 
Mr Newsman fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Dec 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2014 15:41
|
|
|
Mr Newsman posted:Puppy question: The simple solution is to just get rid of the denim bed. He doesn't need it and sounds like he does fine without it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2014 18:04
|
|
|
Sherlock did the same thing with both of the beds that I had for him so I just got rid of them. I don't know what it was about the beds but getting rid of them solved that easy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2014 18:14
|
|
|
Bed still smells like pee, but I agree it'd be easier to just throw it out. Laundry soap doesn't get everything out - anything that gets peed on in my house gets doused with an enzymatic cleaner, left to air dry for 24 hours, then laundered.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2014 18:47
|
|
|
Toss the bed. Easy-peasy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
My dogs were shitlords with their beds (chewing, not peeing) so they just didn't get beds until they could treat them nicely.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2014 01:43
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:My dogs were shitlords with their beds (chewing, not peeing) so they just didn't get beds until they could treat them nicely. Nyx just recently took to a bed. We had a pillow she was using next to the bed for the longest time. I think she realized that when we went to sleep playtime was over. So we figured, why not invest in a bed finally (she chewed apart the first two). We attempted to put it in the back room with us but she just kept trying to play with it. We then put it in the bedroom where her pillow was and then left her pillow further away but still nearby. After 1 night she was taking the bed instead and now regularly sleeps in it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2014 16:44
|
|
|
So we're having a minor crate issue right now. Sherlock doesn't like being put away. Of course he doesn't, but he's figured out the routine, and he knows when we're about to crate him. When we do a normal training session, "Come" works great (unless he's practicing his selective hearing skills, but that's another issue). It even works if we try to get him to come towards his crate. However, he just KNOWS when we're going to crate him, so he'll just lay down on the floor and pout and refuse to come. To be sure, he LOVES his crate. If we can get him half-way there, he'll blast towards it and jump right in, happy as a clam. But the issue is we can't even get him half-way there without carrying him. So it's not the crate itself he hates, it's being put away he hates. And we're getting to a dangerous point...right now he lays down and pouts. There was a point where if we waited long enough, he would eventually get up and walk over sulking. But now he doesn't even do that...so as a result, we've had to resort to picking him up and carrying him to his crate (again, we just need to get half-way there and he'll go in voluntarily...we aren't physically cramming him in there). Once in a while, though, he'll get up and start to walk away when we get close...and I know drat well that the next step is him learning that he can hide behind the couch or something, so we need to figure this out before we reach that point. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2014 19:45
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:So we're having a minor crate issue right now. Re-do crate games maybe? Have him go in and out without closing the door. Maybe move the crate from its normal position to start this off? Teach him even looking in, going in, and coming back out are fun and rewarding. Work on sit and down in the crate. Basically treat it like you are re-doing crate training all together.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2014 20:18
|
|
|
wtftastic posted:Re-do crate games maybe? Have him go in and out without closing the door. Maybe move the crate from its normal position to start this off? Teach him even looking in, going in, and coming back out are fun and rewarding. Work on sit and down in the crate. Basically treat it like you are re-doing crate training all together. I like to work sends to crate to break up a normal training session or randomly during the day. You can play with it like you'd play 'around the world' in basketball - pick different spots in the room and see if you can send him to the crate from there. When you can yell 'crate' and have him haul rear end from another room to get in the crate, then you can start to use it when it's time to go (along with other random times when he just gets in, gets a treat, and gets released to go do something else).
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2014 23:08
|
|
|
Engineer Lenk posted:I like to work sends to crate to break up a normal training session or randomly during the day. You can play with it like you'd play 'around the world' in basketball - pick different spots in the room and see if you can send him to the crate from there. When you can yell 'crate' and have him haul rear end from another room to get in the crate, then you can start to use it when it's time to go (along with other random times when he just gets in, gets a treat, and gets released to go do something else). This is more or less how I initially crate trained my dog and he loves going to "bed" when its asked of him.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2014 00:20
|
|
|
Continuing with the peeing pups theme... Tumbles has been coming to work with me almost every day since she was about 11 weeks old (now she's 6 months). She's great at not having accidents at home, unless I gently caress something up, but she doesn't seem to get that the office is not an ok place to go. Whenever I give her freedom to run and play a bit without me standing over her, holding a leash, often within 15-20 minutes of having been out, she'll pee or poop somewhere. It's clear she could hold it if she tried - she can go hours at home or when crated or tethered near my desk, no problem. But I guess she equates the office (which is way bigger than anything else she's used to, and probably smells like other dogs and their pee...) with a dog park or something and thinks it's an ok place to go. Right now I deal with this by keeping her tied up or crated, watching her like a hawk when she's playing, and only let her run around and play for maybe 15 minutes after being outside. I keep hoping she can handle a little more freedom, but it never seems to go well when I try. I can keep this up (although she definitely gets bored and wants more freedom than I give her here), but I'm wondering if this is something she'll likely grow out of on her own, or if I need to work to make her realize that work is not a bathroom. I think part of the problem is that, when she does have an accident, I need to get the poop/pee cleaned off of the carpet and THEN take her out, so it messes up the "interrupt, take outside" flow you're supposed to do. There isn't really a good way around this, as I don't think it's fair to leave dog poo poo sitting around for my coworkers to enjoy while I take the pup out. Any advice, or will waiting for her to grow up a bit be enough? (PS. Thanks Engineer Lenk, I'm working on taking your resource guarding advice, although fortunately I've been able to avoid these situations pretty well so it hasn't been incredibly urgent. And we start puppy junior high next month, so maybe they can help with some hands on work, too.)
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2014 01:07
|
|
|
biggest platypus posted:Continuing with the peeing pups theme... So douse your office (as much as you can) in enzymatic cleaner and don't let her have unsupervised play time until Stumbles show you that she can handle it, especially in your office.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2014 04:36
|
|
|
Well, the thread is long. Fortunately, I'm not actually interested in being a puppy or new dog owner. The question is, I've stopped talking to my poo poo new dog owner sister, and I can only guess, but the puppy has a catheter (I think it's called), so it's probably unethical to give it back to the shelter like this? Do people give puppies back to the shelter if they are a poo poo new dog owner? Or if the shelter is an unethical choice, maybe they find another aspiring dog owner that's going to take it seriously? On that note, can you determine by the puppy's look and behavior if the owner is poo poo? I let it out of my sister's room tonight and it was very active and didn't look dirty, but smelled pretty bad, although maybe it's the room that's fecal, or maybe puppies are supposed to be smelly. Oh, my sister apparently went to the gym. I guess that's not forbidden. Maybe I'm freaking out over nothing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2014 19:38
|
|
|
Hana is starting to bark a lot in certain situations and I was recommended using a bark collar. Initially I was very against it, as I thought they were all punitive shock collars, but there's sonic ones as well. Are they really a 'humane' way of teaching the dog not to bark? Also, she's in general a 'vocal' dog and will talk a lot and we don't want to lose that. Would a collar work if we only use it situationally? (Mostly: Leaving her outside the coffee shop while I'll grab a coffee and waiting to get picked up after daycare).
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2014 23:56
|
|
|
DaveSauce posted:So we're having a minor crate issue right now. Re-crate training is correct. No crating forcibly, lots of crate positive reinforcement, crate sometimes when you are not leaving etc (look up a crating/separation anxiety training protocol for that). I'm having to do this too for my 1.5 year old.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2014 10:54
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:Hana is starting to bark a lot in certain situations and I was recommended using a bark collar. Initially I was very against it, as I thought they were all punitive shock collars, but there's sonic ones as well. Teach her to talk only on command instead if you want her to bark. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/237 No attention when she barks, she doesn't get what she wants, etc, unless you have given her the command to. I think there's ones that are citronella spray which is only arguably better but I've heard negative things about sonic collars for dogs - drive the other dogs/ cats nearby insane, damage hearing etc. supermikhail posted:Well, the thread is long. Fortunately, I'm not actually interested in being a puppy or new dog owner. The question is, I've stopped talking to my poo poo new dog owner sister, and I can only guess, but the puppy has a catheter (I think it's called), so it's probably unethical to give it back to the shelter like this? Do people give puppies back to the shelter if they are a poo poo new dog owner? Or if the shelter is an unethical choice, maybe they find another aspiring dog owner that's going to take it seriously?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2014 10:57
|
|
|
pizzadog posted:Why does the puppy have a catheter, and it is home alone out in a room? It got some kind of cold next day after it was brought home, and then my sister took it to a vet where it got the catheter. Yeah, the shelter doesn't sound like an option now, but the whole situation is making me depressed. I don't know what my sister's problem is, she seems to go away during the evening just when the puppy apparently prepares to take a giant dump on the floor and stink up the whole house. And two nights ago her excuse was that she went to the gym, but the gym is a 5 minute drive away, and she was out for at least 3 hours. Then it starts whining when I'm about to go to bed. Yes, it's alone in a room, and I let it out a couple times, but not yesterday, cause I don't know anymore. I mean, either my sister is abusing an animal (but she wouldn't admit it), or it's alright. In either case, I either can't do anything, or shouldn't. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2014 12:38
|
|
|
Question about water. We have a small water bowl, it came as a second bowl in a set, the other we use for food. The problem is, our dog tends to clear out the water bowl in one go and we are awful about remembering to fill it and I feel bad about that. What is the general feeling about one of those water dispenser things where you put a jug on top of it and it refills as the bowl empties? Or should I continue with just refilling the small bowl and work on my own diligence and keeping it filled?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2014 19:56
|
|
|
Hello! Thank you for the awesome detailed OP in this and the training thread. It went a long ways to alleviating my worries as a new dog owner. We just came home with a family dog (really me and my brother) today. Here is Waffle zonked out after his walk: He's a 3 year old GSD/Golden mix but right now he might just be a cat in disguise. He doesn't give a poo poo about any of his toys (tug, kong, bone, squeeky toy). How do I get him used to them? He sniffed at them then didn't give a poo poo. He looked a bit startled by the squeeky toy after being kinda curious. We think his old owners never gave him any attention or played with him. I know someone posted a link in one of the threads but I forgot to bookmark it. He's kinda food motivated I guess? We treated him with some liver and he ate it up happily. Maybe we overfed him because he sometimes doesn't react to it, but then he might just be overwhelmed. Also, he unfortunately can't do stairs right now which kinda sucks because my PC, room and his crate is in the basement. Once we charge the clicker and do some more training, I'm sure we can get him over that fear. For now, it's probably a bad idea to carry him down the stairs right? I'm better off bringing his crate to the ground level? e: Never mind, I found the link about getting the dog to like his toys. I believe it's this: http://www.clickerdogs.com/createamotivatingtoy.htm
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 01:31
|
|
|
My 5 and a bit month old pup is pretty good at using her dog door to go outside now. She puts herself to bed in her crate at night and I'll often hear her wake up around 4:30 am, little collar tags jingling as she trots down the hallway and out the dog door to pee. On the two days a week we have her at home instead of doggy daycare she's great about using it too. But still, at least once a week we come across a random pee spot inside  there doesn't seem any rhyme or reason to it and she's so good at getting outside the rest of the time I'm not sure what the logic is here. Should we be going back to basics and giving her no allowances at all/watch her like a hawk, or does it sound more like an 'eh, she's a puppy she'll probably grow out if it' dealie?
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
couldcareless posted:Question about water. We have a small water bowl, it came as a second bowl in a set, the other we use for food. The problem is, our dog tends to clear out the water bowl in one go and we are awful about remembering to fill it and I feel bad about that. They're fine but you still have to refill and clean them out eventually too. I got my dogs a 44oz hampster bottle for indoors - one of my dogs will get more of it out the sides of his mouth than in it, so he only has bowls filled outdoors by the hose.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 05:07
|
|
|
Xtanstic posted:Hello! Thank you for the awesome detailed OP in this and the training thread. It went a long ways to alleviating my worries as a new dog owner. We just came home with a family dog (really me and my brother) today. If you just came home with him today, let him settle in for a few weeks before you make judgments about personality. I wouldn't start building an exciting toy with a dog I'm still bonding with - if he's already a bit overwhelmed it'll backfire.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 06:29
|
|
|
Moto Punch posted:My 5 and a bit month old pup is pretty good at using her dog door to go outside now. She puts herself to bed in her crate at night and I'll often hear her wake up around 4:30 am, little collar tags jingling as she trots down the hallway and out the dog door to pee. On the two days a week we have her at home instead of doggy daycare she's great about using it too. But still, at least once a week we come across a random pee spot inside That's honestly a bit young for that much freedom. You could try blocking off the area she has been peeing in while you are sleeping /away, but I'd be getting her back on a pee schedule at the least.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 07:15
|
|
|
I think I might be getting unrealistic expectations because I keep hearing people say their dog was house trained in a couple of weeks or asking why she isn't 100% house trained yet, she should be by now etc the internet tells me 6-8mo is more realistic but it doesn't stop the jerk anecdotes. Blocking off areas is tricky since she learned to jump over the babygate we've been using. The areas aren't consistent either.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 07:37
|
|
|
Xtanstic posted:He's a 3 year old GSD/Golden mix but right now he might just be a cat in disguise. He doesn't give a poo poo about any of his toys (tug, kong, bone, squeeky toy). How do I get him used to them? He sniffed at them then didn't give a poo poo. He looked a bit startled by the squeeky toy after being kinda curious. We think his old owners never gave him any attention or played with him. I know someone posted a link in one of the threads but I forgot to bookmark it. We brought a dog home from the shelter and it took him a few months to feel comfortable enough around us to be a doofy dog playing with toys. Even after two years of having him if he gets a little overzealous playing with a toy he'll look ashamed of himself and goes off to be a Serious Dog for a bit. Some dogs just don't do toys at all so I wouldn't really worry about it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 23:19
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice. I'll lay off the toys and let him get comfortable for now. I was just bummed because I was hoping to play tug with him as a quick and easy way to tire him out. As it stands, I have other things that are a higher priority to train anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2014 23:28
|
|
|
Xtanstic posted:Thanks for the advice. I'll lay off the toys and let him get comfortable for now. I was just bummed because I was hoping to play tug with him as a quick and easy way to tire him out. As it stands, I have other things that are a higher priority to train anyway. My aforementioned dog doesn't really like plain toys like ropes and stuffed animals, but he's all about puzzle toys. If we give him a stuffed Kong or some other puzzle he's all over that poo poo and will stay busy and out of trouble for hours. Other dog requires a playmate to play with his toys with him and is all about fetching and tugging, so it really comes down to the dog's individual personality
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
Two newbie questions. One, the dog is able to 'sit' and 'down', but I seem to suck at luring the behavior. I rewarded him at first when he would just present the behavior because I wanted him to be calm while I was treating him. Now that I'm trying to get him on cue, I can't seem to lure it. I'm afraid that he's developping a habit of when he sees me reach into my treat bag, but am slow to feed him, he just presents all his tricks until I reward him. Any tips besides 'watch more kikopup'? Next, he pulls on the leash like crazy. I knew this when I adopted him so it's not like it's a surprise or anything. He obviously needs his walks so I grit my teeth and let him pull me along. I'm working on it on loose leash walking and a heel. I just wanted to make sure that I'm not hurting him too much (I haven't gotten him used to his harness yet, he slipped it off every time I tried to put it on) and I hope that I'm not confusing him by doing leash work indoors while giving into his pulling outdoors? I guess I'm worrying too much about doing everything right because it's only been a bit more than 24 hours and all things considered he's been calm and affectionate so far.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2014 04:57
|
|
|
Xtanstic posted:Two newbie questions. One, the dog is able to 'sit' and 'down', but I seem to suck at luring the behavior. I rewarded him at first when he would just present the behavior because I wanted him to be calm while I was treating him. Now that I'm trying to get him on cue, I can't seem to lure it. I'm afraid that he's developping a habit of when he sees me reach into my treat bag, but am slow to feed him, he just presents all his tricks until I reward him. Any tips besides 'watch more kikopup'? For 'sit' and down, put it on verbal if you've captured it and don't bother with luring. You can read up a bit on freeshaping, basically you'll do a session where you only click for offering a sit, treat in position then release him with whatever word you're using (I use 'ok', some people use 'break' or 'free') and toss a treat to get him to reset himself. When he's popping into a sit really quickly while you're just standing there empty-handed, start using the word 'sit' right before he sits. When you can ask him to 'sit' when he doesn't know he's in a training session and he's got it, then repeat the process with 'down'. You can cue transfer a verbal to a hand signal (with an empty hand) if you want that option too - just precede the known command with the new cue and repeat until he's not waiting for the known cue and just jumps into the behavior. If you want to regain the ability to lure, teach a nose touch to hand. I wouldn't let a dog pull on a collar and expect them to ever learn loose leash walking. Use an emergency harness and make fitting a harness your top priority for work at home.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2014 06:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:32 |
|
|
pizzadog posted:Re-crate training is correct. No crating forcibly, lots of crate positive reinforcement, crate sometimes when you are not leaving etc (look up a crating/separation anxiety training protocol for that). I'm having to do this too for my 1.5 year old. I know you're not the first to suggest this, but this worked a few days ago. So previously, every time we crated him we would praise him, give him treats, and tell him, "Good crate!" But, until now, we've never explicitly told him to go to his crate. We just lured him over with "Come" and when he got close enough he'd hop right in on his own accord. It turns out he's known the command all along, but we've never actually used it. Now, all we have to do is tell him to go to his crate and he happily obliges from just about anywhere. No pouting, no complaints. I only had to do ONE session of trying to teach him the command...that's when I found out he actually knew what "Crate" meant. I've done a few more sessions to reinforce, but ever since that one session we've been crating him by using the command. Strangest drat thing...
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2014 13:48
|
|