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I may have leaks but I also reinforced the lid with a circle of 5/8 ply top and bottom. (it's the size of ply I had) I used two buckets and cut the bottom off one (the one that gets the lid) and I added a round of foam insulation to seal fairly well. That way clean up is just separating the buckets without having to remove the lid. The bucket compresses when the hose gets stopped but doesn't burst.
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May 13, 2024 22:40
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a I have a set of the DMT 3x8 diamond plates in 600, 1200, and 8000. Been working fine for me for 7 years. Sometimes I give them a good scrub to wash out any metal stuck in there. I haven't tried anything else so I can't compare.
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May 13, 2024 23:01
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topic but drat the choices are overwhelming... Basically down to either:
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Big dmt fan
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May 13, 2024 23:17
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Not exactly fine woodworking here, but I'm planning on getting a picnic table frame and building it with 2x10 construction grade pine. I have some Valspar Integrity exterior grade latex "paint and primer". I used it on my front door last year and it has held up fine. Would it be okay to just slap a couple coats on a picnic table and call it done? Also, I'm planning on routing 1/2" roundovers on the seats and outer edges of the table top. What spacing is recommended between the three boards that will make up the table top and should I go with 1/8 or 1/4 roundovers for the gaps? Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 23:51
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Bloody posted:Big dmt fan I hear they have it in vape form now
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May 13, 2024 23:52
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that's right. you can inhale sharp carbon
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May 13, 2024 23:53
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I have moved and have a garage now. I will be finally building a real bench. Gimme some suggestions for woods to build an anarchist workbench. I’m in Tacoma. Doug fit feels like the obvious choice but it kind of sucks to work with and seems to be either low quality / very construction grade or obscenely expensive
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May 14, 2024 03:04
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I'm a diamond plate and windex guy. I use some DMT plates and I have some cheap amazon ones too
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May 14, 2024 03:15
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:Those of you with a duststopper, how do you prevent your homer bucket from imploding when your hose inevitable seals against a flat surface (a bench top, work piece, or garage floor for instance)? My bucket is like 70% duct tape at this point. My dad has a second bucket on his. It keeps the structure because the air pressure is the same on both sides. I think he has a hole in the bottom of the second bucket.
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May 14, 2024 03:56
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Skunkduster posted:Not exactly fine woodworking here, but I'm planning on getting a picnic table frame and building it with 2x10 construction grade pine. I have some Valspar Integrity exterior grade latex "paint and primer". I used it on my front door last year and it has held up fine. Would it be okay to just slap a couple coats on a picnic table and call it done? your paint will be fine, but make sure the wood is reasonably dry before painting: construction grade pine is often sopping wet from the big box store and the paint won't adhere very well until it's dried out a bit. 10" boards can expand in their width direction when they absorb moisture, but if they're sopping wet when you buy them, they're gonna shrink and then never be as wide again, so if you start with very wet wood you don't need very big gaps at all. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/WoodMovement.pdf Assuming flat sawn soft yellow pine 10" boards and a huge range of moisture because you're outside of like 10% to 70% for just a really big margin of error, that's 10 x .6 x .00263 = 0.01578 or about two hundredths of an inch per board. A 1/8" gap between boards will be plenty. I don't think you need roundovers for the gaps at all, but how big is a matter of aesthetics.
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May 14, 2024 04:31
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alnilam posted:but there are a zillion diamond plate sets online ranging from like... $20/set to $200/set?? Any advice? For sharpening, my "one-size fits nearly all" recommendation is to get a ~600 grit diamond stone to start with. See how you get on with it and then get other stones if you need them. A 600 is often classified as "fine" - at least that's what DMT calls it - but it's a nice middle grit for diamond stones as far as I'm concerned. You can take a chisel edge from battered and chipped all the way back to razor-sharp with a 600. Yes, it'll take a little bit longer than if you had a coarser grit stone too, and no, you won't be able to get it as sharp as those dudes do on YouTube, but you'll be able to take it from battered to shaving hairs off your arm in about 3 minutes with a honing guide - you won't be there for hours. I promise you that the sharpness you can get on half-decent tools is good enough for 99% of woodworking. If you're doing super-fine work then you might need to go sharper, but you can go directly from a 600 stone to a strop and that'll get you as sharp or sharper than going to a finer-grit stone. You can even regrind the whole main bevel of a chisel or similar with a 600-grit stone like this, within like 5-10 mins. If you have lots of money, and the space, get a Tormek T-4 combination grinding wheel and leather wheel thingy. They rule. Makes sharpening *very* fast and easy. I worked in a joinery manufacturing environment for 15 years and I can tell you, when we did have a full diamond stone set available, nobody bothered with the finest ones. Once we got the Tormek, none of the diamond stones got too much use anymore. But yeah, my best budget pick would definitely be a single ~600ish grit stone, plus a honing guide. I like the simple wheely kind of honing guide. Good, simple and cheap: https://www.faithfulltools.com/p/FAIHG/Honing-Guide The DMT "Diamond Whetstone" series is great value for money. They'll last for years if you take care of them and pay a basic amount of attention to trying to wear them somewhat evenly across the surface. they're the ones with the plastic circles within the diamond grid: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dmt-diamond-whetstone-fine-grit-knife-sharpener-6-in-0578020p.html We had one of these in a joinery shop with 20 people sharpening chisels and other tools, and it looked and worked just fine after 5+ years.
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May 14, 2024 04:57
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I'm about to build some kitchen cabinet drawers/pull outs to replace the shelves. Can anyone recommend a particular set of plans or video?
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May 14, 2024 05:24
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Danish Oil stain test on "select" big box pine: Black Walnut vs Dark Walnut  black looks better than dark imo
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May 14, 2024 20:34
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I bought this veneer over a year ago with my media centre project in mind, should make for some cool doors.
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May 16, 2024 03:22
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That's some wild rear end figure, is it dyed/what species is it?
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May 16, 2024 03:45
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Probably should have given more info. It's ziricote, un-dyed, un finished, just raw veneer at this point, a few checks being held together with blue tape.
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May 16, 2024 03:52
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Dang, that's some weird rear end natural coloration then.
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May 16, 2024 03:55
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Christ, I feel like if I opened that the necronomicon would be inside. I love it.
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May 16, 2024 03:56
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I bought this veneer over a year ago with my media centre project in mind, should make for some cool doors. Thought I'd do a semi-effort post on turning this raw veneer into a panel. The first step was to use chalk to mark out my doors as I want the bookmatched veneer to run across four doors. Then I cross-cut the veneer to size, leaving it about an inch long. Then I jointed the veneer where it will be bookmatched, the factory edges were very nice, so all it took was a bit of sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. I check the fit, I am happy with this.  Then I flip it over to the face I plan on gluing and use blue tape the hold the edges tight. Also used some tape to close up a couple small checks in the veneer.  Then I apply veneer tape to the other side (this is a different section with no checks). The blue tape gets removed once the water activated adhesive on the veneer tape dries.  Then it goes into the vacuum press for gluing. I am using cherry veneered plywood that I have already edgebanded with 1/4" solid walnut that is a decent enough match to the ziricote. I am using Titebond veneer glue for this panel. In this picture I am actually gluing the poplar backer veneer down. I keep it in the press for about 2 hours, then do the other side and press that for 2 hours.  Out of the press there is a lot of overhang that needs to be trimmed. I use a sharp 1" chisel for all the trimming. The water based glue loosens the veneer tape, so I try and pull some of the tape off when I take it out of the press.  Once the glue has fully cured after a day or so I do the trimming, then I scrape the panel. I use a No.80 cabinet scraper on the tape to remove the residue, then a card scraper for the rest.  Now the panel is ready for whatever, it pretty much acts as solid wood at this point in that it is not fragile like the initial sheets of veneer. I am going to add a couple of tongues to both the top and bottom edge, sand it, then finish it. Should make a nice sliding door. I likely left out a lot of details I take for granted...but I'll answer questions.
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May 21, 2024 03:41
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I’ve been hunting for a jointer plane for a reasonable price for months Finally stumbled across an eBay auction with a Sargent jointer (Stanley 7) Millers Falls smoothing, a Craftsman smoothing, and a legit Stanley 110 for $70+$20 shipping, no bids The Sargeant needs a tiny bit of surface rust removal, but the other three are pristine. Not that I needed another smoothing or block plane, but still. The miller’s falls may as well be fresh out of the original packaging, honestly  No photos of the jointer because it’s already been taken to bits, awaiting a bin big enough for de-rusting
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May 21, 2024 05:21
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thought I'd do a semi-effort post on turning this raw veneer into a panel. Super cool, thanks. Do you use the vacuum press for all of your veneer work, like the fine detail stuff too?
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May 21, 2024 11:49
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thought I'd do a semi-effort post on turning this raw veneer into a panel. Thanks for this
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May 21, 2024 11:52
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thought I'd do a semi-effort post on turning this raw veneer into a panel.
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May 21, 2024 14:40
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ColdPie posted:Super cool, thanks. Do you use the vacuum press for all of your veneer work, like the fine detail stuff too? Not always, I often use a bunch of clamps on an MDF or plywood caul when it makes sense. A vacuum press excels at big panels and the ability to do more than one pressing at once. Anything that has a dimension over 12" will go in the press as my max clamp depth is about 6" so anything wider is hard to get even pressure. Likewise if I'm doing a bunch of small pieces, I am limited by my number of clamps, so if I am building 2 small boxes I can easily veneer 8 sides at the same time using the press. If I am doing a couple of drawer fronts, a single box, or a single small panel it's way more convenient to just pull out the clamps. I also don't have to fret about what work I am doing in the shop when I use clamps. As my shop is on the small side I get paranoid if I am using edge tools while my press is out as putting a hole in my bag would be really annoying. The level of detail doesn't come into play for the decision, both are fine for marquetry, parquetry or whatever. Action shot of some low tech veneering:  Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Have you tried a urea-formaldehyde glue? If so, do you prefer the water based titebond veneer glue? I've always used UF glue with good results for veneering but its kind of a pain to mix and the dried glue can get razor sharp. Do you every used water-soluble dyes over the titebond glue and have you had any problems with that weakening the glue bond? This is a very good question. I have never used UF glue, only because I haven't found a reasonable source in Canada, it always seems I have to order a gallon from some small outfit in the states that charges hundreds of dollars for shipping which breaks the deal for me. I find using water is a bit risky before the glue has fully cured. There has been a couple times I haven't been patient enough to wait for the glue to fully cure and I spread water all over the veneer tape to soften it for removal. A combination of the partially cured glue plus the veneer expanding with the water has caused a few small bubbles, however because the glue is partially cured I just use an iron to apply heat and pressure to it and it re-adheres. (You can make you own iron on veneer using partially cured PVA glue and an iron if you want to do a large panel without a press -- a topic for another day). While I have never dyed a veneered panel, I don't think you will have any issues with the water and glue once fully cured. A marquetry or parquetry panel is sometimes 100% covered in veneer tape and I use multiple applications of water letting it soak in a few times before scraping the tape. Then once the tape is removed I still need to give it a scrub with water to remove any tape residue. So I think if you are patient and let it fully cure you'll be fine, but I always recommend a test panel. Here's an example of a parquetry panel that needed a lot of water to remove the tape:  Edit: I just realized I have dyed a panel many years ago. As I just walked by it in my entrance, it was quilted maple, used water based aniline dye, no problems. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 15:21 on May 21, 2024 |
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May 21, 2024 15:18
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Here's some "fine as in adequate" woodworking... I found an 8 ft, 1"-ish live edge poplar slab for $8 at a local construction goods secondhand store. I decided to make a bench.  It's all dowel jointed... I had wanted to do mortise/tenon for practice but I quickly learned (on a test piece fortunately) that mortises dont cut well cross-grain, it tears out a lot, at least in poplar. There are also some triangle pieces helping reinforce the leg-bench joint. I know wood people don't like poplar much, but idc I think this bench is cute. Another significant aspect of this project for me was my first time using a kinda real plane! I have an old Stanley block plane that for a long time was my only experience planing at all. It worked well for chamfers and for getting doors to fit into frames better, and worked okay for very rough removal of material that would then need to be intensely sanded. I got a $35 Grizzly plane based on this Rex video , which as the video shows, needed quite a bit of work to get into good working condition. But I flattened and sharpened the irons with my new oilstones, and it is a dream to use! At least to my inexperienced hands, compared to a tiny block plane. The end result barely even needed sanding although I did anyway.
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May 21, 2024 21:03
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alnilam posted:Here's some "fine as in adequate" woodworking... I found an 8 ft, 1"-ish live edge poplar slab for $8 at a local construction goods secondhand store. I decided to make a bench. This is really nice! I love the little tree detail.
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May 21, 2024 21:09
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I like your bench. the tree feet embellishments are cute
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May 21, 2024 21:09
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I can't really see it all that well but you might want to consider drilling a small hole at the tip-top of the trees or rounding it with a rat-tail file or something so that it does not have a sharp corner lined up w the grain. that will make the feet less likely to split up the middle
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May 21, 2024 21:11
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PokeJoe posted:I can't really see it all that well but you might want to consider drilling a small hole at the tip-top of the trees or rounding it with a rat-tail file or something so that it does not have a sharp corner lined up w the grain. that will make the feet less likely to split up the middle Thanks, that's a good tip, I'll do something like that
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May 21, 2024 21:39
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for the record I think most of the wood people in this thread like poplar just fine it's an inexpensive easy to work hardwood, and if you really hate the tendency for parts of it to turn green you can deal with that with various methods or just paint it.
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May 22, 2024 00:31
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Poplar is fine wood, but it is soft, which makes cutting accurate mortises and dovetails tricky.
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May 22, 2024 00:57
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Poplar is my favorite secondary wood by far. It's also one of the most variable woods from board to board ime. Sometimes its perfect and pleasant and hard enough but not too hard, sometimes its fuzzy and stringy and warpy, sometimes I've had it be super dense and hard, sometimes I've had it so soft it crumbles if you try to chop a mortise. I've never personally found it particularly attractive, but it can age to a warm brown that's not terrible.
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May 22, 2024 01:04
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It also smells like butterscotch when you cut it.
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May 22, 2024 01:06
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I think because the dust is so light and fine and...dusty? poplar dust bothers me me more than about any wood.
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May 22, 2024 01:14
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Poplar is great though for practice pieces and messing around on top of being a great behind-the-scenes wood. And I actually really like the mineral green core that some of it comes with. It's so cool looking and makes for really unusual patterns, which is definitely a personal quirk because I have had several friends ask my why I like this weird looking swirl and I like it because it IS weird.
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May 22, 2024 16:25
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Having just made something with poplar, it was pleasant enough to work with, but I hate the green. Any pieces without the green look good to me, especially the darker ones. For the guy whose mortise was tearing out: did you score all the edges of the mortise before chopping it?
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May 22, 2024 17:24
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HappyHippo posted:Having just made something with poplar, it was pleasant enough to work with, but I hate the green. Any pieces without the green look good to me, especially the darker ones. Yup, I made multiple attempts on a practice piece, eventually going so far as to bang a chisel down along the side score lines to really, really score it beyond what a knife could do. That helped but it still had some significant tear-out when extracting waste. It could have been a particularly stringy board of poplar  but when I googled the problem of mortise tear-out I found a bunch of forums discussions online about how you don't usually cut mortises across-grain, and figured that was my problem.
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May 22, 2024 17:34
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another thing to check is dryness. The poplar I've come across is usually kiln-dried, but I dunno maybe there's excessively wet stuff out there and wet wood is hell to chisel.
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May 22, 2024 17:41
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The other fun thing about poplar is that most of it is from “Yellow poplar”, aka “tulip poplar”, which is a magnolia, not a poplar. True poplars are even softer than “yellow poplar”. I’ve also heard that some percentage of poplar lumber is actual magnolias.
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May 22, 2024 18:01
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Where I'm from Aspen is commonly called "White Poplar" and we have several species of poplar, cottonwood, and basswood that are all essentially interchangable in their names. Is Assiniboine Poplar a poplar or a cottonwood? I have no loving clue it depends on who you ask.
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May 22, 2024 18:08
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