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Sagebrush has shamed us all. Nice work. I played with some knee pad ideas using skateboard grip sheets. I never could get them to work well, because the pads highlighted the sins/irregularities of my DIY knee-dents.
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Nov 12, 2013 16:29
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Tamir Lenk posted:Sagebrush has shamed us all. Nice work. Put them over neoprene foam. Bonus is that it is usually gas resistant (depends).
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Nov 12, 2013 16:30
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gently caress, that's real goddamned nice. Great work Sage!
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Nov 12, 2013 17:03
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Geirskogul posted:Put them over neoprene foam. Bonus is that it is usually gas resistant (depends). It was the outline shape, not the surface. I did the dents by hand so they don't totally match each other and have slightly irregular shapes. Those details wash out in a single color, but the contrast of the knee-pads make the edges too stark to hide the margin errors. 
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Nov 12, 2013 18:51
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Coredump posted:Guys stahp, you're making me sad. Actually it's so drat sunny and dry today that I went for a short ride when I got home (still 19 degrees F though). OH -- and Sage, that is just awesome. Beautiful work.
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Nov 12, 2013 22:20
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Thanks for all the compliments! I am very happy with how they turned out. Rode a hundred and fifty miles along some twisty roads with them attached, and they're actually really comfortable. I was worried that the rubber would be too soft, because when they came out of the molds they were almost the consistency of a gummy bear, but it hardened up with air exposure and now they're just the right mix of firmness and squishyness. Extremely grippy, too. Not that I ever hit speeds where I'd need to be hanging onto the tank with my knees, but the squishy texture encourages me to stay tight on the tank and that's good.Geirskogul posted:Sell the pads on ebay, or sell the molds to me I'm not selling you the molds! That's like giving away your source code. Also I'm not super comfortable with the idea of selling something with the Honda logo on it, even if it is the old one. But you might have noticed that the logos are removable inserts.  OSU_Matthew posted:
We have a couple of bigass Haas machines at work. If you're going to be cutting molds in that Renshape tooling board I used, though, you don't need anything that powerful; a $1000 desktop CNC would be plenty as long as it has a large enough table for your needs. There's a thread about hobbyist CNC in the DIY forum if you're interested. A 3D printer would be a great way to make a mold for this if you don't have a CNC and are willing to spend a little longer in the processing. You could either 3D-print the entire mold from the ground up, or you could 3D-print the part and then make a silicone mold of that, so you have a flexible silicone negative, then pour the urethane into the silicone mold. Either way you're going to have to sand the printed part smooth to get rid of all the little ridges 3D printers leave, and probably fill the surface with bondo so it's non-porous. So it's more effort than just milling it with a CNC but if you're careful and have a good printer you should be able to get roughly the same part quality. Icept posted:At some point in this process, did it occur to you that you put more effort and skill into some rubber knee grips than the average rider will apply to their entire bike? I just like to make things. 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 23:21
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I have a 3d printer that I really need to do something with at some point.
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Nov 12, 2013 23:22
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Z3n posted:I have a 3d printer that I really need to do something with at some point. Yep, box it up and send it to me. Or print me the parts to make one, including the steppers. Thanks in advance.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:36
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SaNChEzZ posted:Yep, box it up and send it to me. Or print me the parts to make one, including the steppers. Thanks in advance. *fuss with it for 19 hours* *print half a clutch lever and a spaghetti mess* *donate to an elementary school*
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Nov 13, 2013 02:48
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infraboy posted:
So, it looks like my buddy and I are going to have to do this on his Ninja 250. First question: how did you find which kit to use? Just looked up the thread class of your spark plug and ordered a kit+inserts? Second question: You say you used compressed air to make sure little/no shavings were left inside the cylinder. How did you do this? Did you remove the exhaust and pop the hole with air periodically? Did you just blow out the spark plug hole while the valves were shut? I've never done anything like this before so any and all hints are appreciated. Let's hope this goes well.
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Nov 13, 2013 03:42
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TIME-SERT
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Pulled the tank, flushed everything, replaced the fuel filter, and essentially bathed myself in gasoline. It was a good afternoon.
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Nov 13, 2013 10:56
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XYLOPAGUS posted:So, it looks like my buddy and I are going to have to do this on his Ninja 250. 1) I looked around online and on fireblades.org (apparently the same thing has happened on other guys #2 spark plug) and the specific time-sert kit was linked, my spark plugs were m10x1mm and I just found the kit for that, not sure on the ninja 250s spark plug spec but it's probably 1mm/1.25m/1.5mm I imagine. 2) I just attached some clear tubing to a blow gun and put it down the spark plug hole and blew anything out, I also greased the tap a bit to catch any shavings as it cut its way through. best bit of advice I can give is just take your time with it, might be easier to access the spark plug holes on your bike but I had to be somewhat creative with different extensions because the spark plug holes in most sportbikes are pretty deep. I did a quick google looks like you need the same kit as me: Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025NL1ZS/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 insert: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SFUGUI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Inspection camera: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003629WRQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ^^^ not absolutely required but it's really nice to have for this particular job and others along the line and for 70$ it's certainly handy. The tool isn't exactly cheap but it's probably the only way to do it and it's some quality hardware.
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Nov 13, 2013 11:11
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Mushika posted:Pulled the tank, flushed everything, replaced the fuel filter, and essentially bathed myself in gasoline. It was a good afternoon. My wife calls it "eau de Harley" when I come home from the garage all chemical stinky.
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Nov 13, 2013 20:13
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clutchpuck posted:My wife calls it "eau de Harley" when I come home from the garage all chemical stinky. My ex absolutely loved it whenever I had the smell of diesel on me.
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Nov 13, 2013 21:11
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KozmoNaut posted:My ex absolutely loved it whenever I had the smell of diesel on me. I just get bitched at for leaving grungy hand prints on every surface I touch before I can find the dish soap 
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Nov 16, 2013 01:02
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OSU_Matthew posted:I just get bitched at for leaving grungy hand prints on every surface I touch before I can find the dish soap Yeah. 
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Nov 16, 2013 04:50
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Today was winter storage day, so I rode it over to where I'm keeping it and did all the prep stuff. I also learned that if you think you've cleaned all the excess gear oil off your chain, you should clean it more, because you haven't. It flung all over the pipe on my ride, started smoking, got all over my rear wheel--not just the sidewall, the parts I actually ride on. 
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Nov 17, 2013 23:17
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That is a shitload of oil. Like yeah, I always see splots of oil on the inside of my rear wheel and the underside of the muffler after I lube the chain, but I've never had so much that it ends up underneath the tire. How does that even happen? The chainline is outside of the tire...
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Nov 17, 2013 23:21
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gently caress if I know, but I'm a dumbass, so  I was sure I got all the excess off, but I guess not. I'll know better next time.
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Nov 17, 2013 23:44
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I cleaned the ever-loving bejeebus out of my chain. Then I took it for a ride. Best day ever!
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Nov 18, 2013 00:20
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I installed my new petcock and no more leaks.  Now that everything on the bike has been replaced, there's no way for anything to break! ... 
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Nov 18, 2013 00:39
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Petcock. So now it runs ok? No more dumping fuel into the engine with wild abandon? Petcock.
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Nov 18, 2013 01:08
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M42 posted:gently caress if I know, but I'm a dumbass, so Once the chain is clean, you only need a little oil to keep the chain nice. Also, even with decent amounts of throw off, you're not going to see a huge compromise in traction as a result of it.
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Nov 18, 2013 03:53
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Today I rode a b-king down many dirt and gravel roads. I am thoroughly exhausted. Kind of makes me want a drz or klr, though.
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Nov 18, 2013 04:29
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I found myself wanting a DRZ after riding my ZRX down a bunch of gravel roads, too.
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Nov 18, 2013 04:43
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The last of my factory decals came in. I think I did a pretty good job. I have one or two tiny air bubbles that I found when I moved it into different lighting. I think I might try poking a hole in the vinyl with a sewing needle and flattening it all out. Is that a bad idea? 
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Nov 18, 2013 06:17
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Slavvy posted:Petcock. So now it runs ok? No more dumping fuel into the engine with wild abandon? I'm hoping so. Gonna start commuting on it again and I'll see if my mileage and oil issues go away (I'm guessing yes)
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Nov 18, 2013 07:26
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Did my air filter and chain clean and lube. Friend on his Bandit (250) did his spark plugs and chain. Other mate did an oil change, spark plugs, chain and air filter on his bunky-rear end ZZR250. The ZZR is in such a poor shape. The 'silver' on the engine head has lifted and exposed the bare metal beneath. The air filter was crumbling as he pulled it out, his oil was sludgy and black and we spun his chain through my Ketten-Max kit for a good 10 minutes and then a stiff brush for another 10 to get the caked up poo poo off it. The rubber on the airbox strap had pretty much disintegrated. Plus side is, I used Motul chain lube for the first time and now all of our chains spin with the barest of rustling. Slick.  gently caress the old stuff I used, might as well have pissed on it in comparison. crowtribe fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 07:36
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MetaJew posted:The last of my factory decals came in. I think I did a pretty good job. I have one or two tiny air bubbles that I found when I moved it into different lighting. I think I might try poking a hole in the vinyl with a sewing needle and flattening it all out. Is that a bad idea? Nah that's how you fix it.
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Nov 18, 2013 07:56
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What did you have to do because of your ride today? I finished off a can of propane burning off oil stains from my rear red brick patio. drat British bikes.
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Nov 18, 2013 08:25
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Started putting the '82 KZ1000J2 back together... Carb cleaning, new rubber coming all around - carb holders, airbox boots and tires, thinking about a different paint job but I kinda dig the retro pinstriped look.
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Nov 18, 2013 17:16
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Finally tucked in my nighthawk for the winter. Put some fuel stabilizer in, cleaned and lubed everything, shut off the fuel selector and ran the carbs dry, pulled the battery to put on a tender, and lifted the cover over it.  Now to prep my KLR to ride during the winter! 
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Nov 19, 2013 02:40
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I'd leave the stabilized fuel in the carbs, but I've seen it done either way so . At least you're still riding during the winter! Good boy.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:23
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Geirskogul posted:I'd leave the stabilized fuel in the carbs, but I've seen it done either way so I wasn't particularly sure what would be best... probably should have asked here first. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 13:09
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Yeah, on my Honda I would just leave the fuel in the bowls. Then drain in the Spring for the first startup.
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Nov 21, 2013 15:14
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I leave the gas in the bowls and start the bike on finest aged vintage gasoline in the spring 
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Nov 21, 2013 17:02
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I don't see the point of draining the carbs just for a few months of storage through the winter.
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Nov 21, 2013 20:59
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The_Raven posted:Started putting the '82 KZ1000J2 back together... Paint looks great I wouldn't change it.
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Nov 21, 2013 21:00
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Not sure if it applies 1:1, but we have a couple of boats with outboard motors (2 and 4 stroke) and our winter storage strategy every year is 1) remove boat from water 2) remove motor and gas tank from boat 3) put motor and gas tank in shed 4) lock up and come back in the spring and we've never had any problems beyond the usual cursing that comes with a pull-start outboard. Don't even bother draining the gas tank or stabilizing it, just use the same stuff from the previous year. And this is gas that lives around water all the time! Granted the carbs are simpler and the engine is smaller but I don't think that just keeping the gas in a metal can for four to six months is going to ruin it.
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Nov 21, 2013 23:54
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| # ? May 24, 2024 00:08 |
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Do you gas it at a marina? Marina's are often the last remaining bastions of pure unleaded gas, and if so that's a world of difference in break down time and type from gasohol.
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Nov 21, 2013 23:59
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