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TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

Knifegrab posted:

I feel like everyone and their mother has an opinion about crate training. Its mean, its restrictive or its great and necessary!

What is the goon consensus?

Its fine.

IF.

The big if is you go exercise your dogs DAILY. especially larger ones.

great for housebreaking though in any size.

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GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Knifegrab posted:

I feel like everyone and their mother has an opinion about crate training. Its mean, its restrictive or its great and necessary!

What is the goon consensus?

The part that sold me on deciding to crate train was my dog will be more comfortable if I ever need to put her in a kennel for any reason.

I'm interested in any recommendations for crate beds. I bought a cheap one and the cover came apart in the wash. Then my smaller dog decided the foam was way too much to tear up so now she doesn't have a crate bed.

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

GoodBee posted:

The part that sold me on deciding to crate train was my dog will be more comfortable if I ever need to put her in a kennel for any reason.

I'm interested in any recommendations for crate beds. I bought a cheap one and the cover came apart in the wash. Then my smaller dog decided the foam was way too much to tear up so now she doesn't have a crate bed.

https://k9ballistics.com/

pricey, but works. Usually. some are really chewy chewers.

Main Paineframe
Oct 27, 2010

eighty-four merc posted:

Thanks for the advice.

Am I wrong in thinking that my losing ground with him is an important data point? I feel like it'd be one thing if it was like this off the bat, but the fact he has become increasingly disobedient and aggressive toward me after having initially been obedient and affectionate seems significant.

I know that I was following bad advice putting my hands on him. It wasn't a lady from humane society, it was previous owner directing me to do it. I figured she knows the dog and I would benefit from knowing what she had been doing with/to him now that I was experiencing him being disobedient. I thought someone who knew dog, no matter how crazy, would have insight individualized to the dog. Another stupid newbie mistake.

I will read up on the stuff you guys linked and speak with trainers to see if there is a realistic path forward for us with this dog.

It's about what I'd expect. If you're doing something to a dog that the dog doesn't like, and you're not pairing it with something to build a positive association, then the dog's going to like you less. The more you put the dog into situations that he isn't comfortable in, the less comfortable he's going to be with you, particularly if you're not using positive reinforcement.

Owning a dog doesn't make someone a dog expert, and it sounds like the previous owner was pretty terrible at training. Knowing what the previous owner did to the dog is important, though, because now you know what sort of treatment the dog has been subjected to and have a little insight into some of the kinds of things he might be nervous about.

The most important thing is to shake this whole concept of "losing ground" and "respect". If you put your hand on a dog and it tenses up and shows its teeth, that's not because it's "seeing what it can get away with", it's because the dog is scared. He's nervous or uncomfortable with you touching him, and doing his best to try to signal that to you with his body language. If you take that as a sign of "disrespect" and do it even more to try to "show him who's boss", you're asking for trouble. You need to start thinking about building the dog's trust and building a comfortable relationship with him, rather than worrying about pecking order or dominance signals. As the dog grows more comfortable with having you around and builds up a relationship with you, he'll likely become more comfortable with being touched by you as well.

Yes, your girlfriend isn't having these problems; that just means that for whatever reason, the dog is more comfortable with her than with you. There could be all sorts of reasons for that, such as being taller, having a deeper voice, the dog being poorly socialized, past traumas in the dog's life, or you doing too much of this dominance stuff...just for whatever reason, the dog finds you more intimidating or less trustworthy, so you're going to have to put in more effort to build that trust.

Dennis McClaren
Mar 28, 2007

"Hey, don't put capture a guy!"
...Well I've got to put something!

sneakyfrog posted:

Its fine.

IF.

The big if is you go exercise your dogs DAILY. especially larger ones.

great for housebreaking though in any size.

Yeah my dog loves her crate after exercise. I just ask her to go inside, getting closer and closer to it everyday with some kibble. Now as soon as I open the door she flies inside that thing and can't wait for the goods.
The caveat is, we do our outside walks/training in the middle of the day, and then its crate time when it gets hot here in Texas. So she's happy to get out of the heat, she's tired as poo poo from exercise, and she knows she's getting a Kibble. Shortly after munchies she passes out into puppy sleep for like 4 hours and only wakes up to go outside to get the led out. It works!

Can dogs get hiccups? I think my dog has hiccups.

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

Main Paineframe posted:



The most important thing is to shake this whole concept of "losing ground" and "respect". If you put your hand on a dog and it tenses up and shows its teeth, that's not because it's "seeing what it can get away with", it's because the dog is scared. He's nervous or uncomfortable with you touching him, and doing his best to try to signal that to you with his body language. If you take that as a sign of "disrespect" and do it even more to try to "show him who's boss", you're asking for trouble. You need to start thinking about building the dog's trust and building a comfortable relationship with him, rather than worrying about pecking order or dominance signals. As the dog grows more comfortable with having you around and builds up a relationship with you, he'll likely become more comfortable with being touched by you as well.




you're going to have to put in more effort to build that trust.

these are solid experienced words here.

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me

Knifegrab posted:

I feel like everyone and their mother has an opinion about crate training. Its mean, its restrictive or its great and necessary!

What is the goon consensus?

I tried to be a good little PI goon when I first got my dog and tried my damnedest to crate train. Read the "Don't Leave Me!" book, covered it with a blanket, tried crate games, went on extra walks/park trips, ignored all crying and barking every night but he just would not take to it. He chewed through both plastic and metal crates, nearly choked himself to death on his own collar, and broke off a tooth from bar-chewing. Giving up on crating and opting for a poo poo ton of puzzle treat toys was our best decision ever. He will still "den" under my desk or under the bed, but if there is a latched door it's panicpalooza. He was 2 and a former stray when we got him, but I'd be open to trying again if I ever start with a young puppy.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
We tried with our dog as a puppy and it never worked for us. We went very slow, high rewards, tried the blanket, sweatshirt with our smell on it, had it next to the bed etc. Nothing worked. Eventually he was good in the crate while in the car but around 2 years old he learned he was long and strong enough to stop going in that as well.

Dogs can be awesome and really frustrating. Our dog was 90% awesome the first 2 years. This last few couple of months have been less awesome as he's developed some stranger aggression lately and it really loving sucks.

Freakbox
Dec 22, 2009

"And Tomorrow I can get Scared Another Day..."
Alright, first actual puppy question! My little guy needs to learn to be alone; not for hours, just for small stretches. I don't think I noticed separation anxiety in the intro, but I could be wrong (I am very tired. We were at the vet all night with kennel cough :ohdear: ).

Bucky is 14 weeks old And already capable of climbing a baby gate and screaming like an angry goose when he's alone. This was after we got home from the vet when I had to go out to the store; I left him in his playroom and when I got home 10 minutes later he was in the living room whining and being sympathy bathed by my 18 year old cat.

I've been reading guides all day- I just wanted to see any potential goon tips. We're working on eating in a separate room as a first step. He can still see me but I placed his food in his playroom instead of with me.

Bonus Puppy Tax: We're getting used to crates because we're in Tornado Alley. :yeah: I need him to be ready on case mother nature is pissed at us.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e-VmCxySRg

PS- how long is kennel cough contagious? I want to socialize him but I don't want him to be the typhoid Mary of the petstore. :gonk:

Freakbox fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 22, 2017

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
I got 2/3 crate trained. Border collie is a working dog and was never a chewer or a nervy dog so it was never even thought about. 9 years and two young dogs later: Springer spanial loves his so much he asks to go in if he wants a sleep so we just leave the door open, little dog does not want to go to bed but won't complain when she's in.

Can I just say doing the not getting siblings and waiting 6 months to get a second puppy thing was a really great idea, right up until it turned out that it was only me house training and obedience training.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Mine will both use the crate but they look sad about it. They would rather hang out with me together.

The second dog was crate trained by the shelter, so that was nice. I've been feeding her in the crate with the door open just because it's easier to make sure they each get the right amount of food when one isn't eating out of the others bowl.

Thankfully we don't have any food aggression at meal time. My first dog gets cranky when she thinks someone else might get a treat and she's not, even though that has literally never happened. She'll growl and chase off her little sister when people are eating around her, just in case, even though she doesn't get fed off our plates.

Dennis McClaren
Mar 28, 2007

"Hey, don't put capture a guy!"
...Well I've got to put something!
I'm still waiting to take my new puppy to the vet. Her first appointment is Friday. She's been doing great.

We think she's maybe 9 months old. When we play catch and run around the yard, she only has about 10-15 mins of full-speed energy in her. Same with our walks - she doesn't last long. Is this normal for a 9month old puppy? Do they tire pretty easily?



Happy and exhausted

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


I skipped the puppy phase with my two so I can't comment.

I do have a million dumb questions though. One is when do I need to worry if overgrooming is an issue? Is it when my dog has irritated skin?

I worry because a friend's dog had that problem. My dog has very short, thin hair, especially on her chest. Her belly has always been bare. I never see her grooming her chest. I only see her grooming her feet and sometimes nibbling on her nails. She's not missing hair there and her nails are fine. She's got noticeably less hair on her chest now but it doesn't look chewed off. Could it be extra thin because it's hot? Or too many belly rubs?

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Super Grocery Kart posted:

You forgot to post a pic of that puppy

gently caress, sorry.

You deserve a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oxyHxHj1YM

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag

Cannon_Fodder posted:

gently caress, sorry.

You deserve a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oxyHxHj1YM

Wanna pet that pupparoo

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:
I don't know if this is too niche, but does anyone here have any experience with herding? I have a 2 y/o Tervuren that I've been working with a fifty (soon to be a hundred) head flock of turkeys for a few weeks and it's going well but I'm having a hard time finding any information about teaching specific commands for free online. There are a lot of instructional VHS(!)/DVDs out there and I'm not opposed to spending money on a few videos, but I'd want a recommendation before I plunked down some cash on one.
And wow, if anyone has the opportunity to try their dog on livestock I can't recommend it enough! I was pretty weary of it at first and worked her for the first two or three days on a leash - in the past (when she was a year old) she had killed birds, but that was under very different circumstances and she never did a kill and shake bite, just wanted to grab them when chasing them. I think I've rooted that behavior out pretty well but she still isn't allowed near the flock unless I'm present for the time being. All she does right now is help me round them up into a shelter in the evening, but it's something that has previously taken a lone dogless individual thirty very frustrating minutes and this evening for the first time I was able to do it alone with her in under ten minutes. Anyways, I'm going to try adding more specific behaviors such as come-by/away to me and steady and would love to have a good conversation with someone who has experience working dogs in the field.
I also have a more general problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with. She seems to pick up what I call "superstitious" behaviors really easy. Things that she expects me to reinforce but that I don't want from her, usually something that I rewarded once early on as a step in shaping a behavior. For example, the problem I'm having right now is that I was teaching her to tighten up a grouping of turkeys by circling them, so I gave verbal praise and treated the first time she circled them and on the second time I just gave her verbal praise. But for whatever reason she appears to be convinced that I'm asking that of her every time I take her to the field. She'll circle them and then come sit for a treat even though I ignore her, then she'll try again circling twice and coming for a treat. So far I've just been completing ignoring her, but this evening I decided to wait her out and see if the behavior would extinguish itself but no, she spent easily ten minutes circling and coming to check for a reward while I ignored her. If I give a soft verbal correctional she'll stop but she'll start again within a minute. All this from just rewarding the behavior twice - and this isn't the only time this sort of thing has happened. Basically I want to figure out how to get her to stop offering that behavior to me nonstop - I don't want her to never circle, she needs to do that a lot, but right now I need her to offer me more behaviors then just that one over and over and over and over and..... All I can think to do is reward something else when she offers it to me, but she doesn't try new things enough when all she wants to do is circle and check in with me for a treat. It drives me a little batty when she gets into repetitive obsessive behaviors and I don't think I have the time or energy to wait for them to naturally extinguish :(

Dennis McClaren posted:

Can dogs get hiccups? I think my dog has hiccups.
My dog got hiccups often as a pup. Puppies are so weird! She also did this thing that I later found out is totally normal where she'd be chilling with me laying in bed awake and suddenly her heart would ramp up to a million BPM and then even out again. I wonder if children do that too or if it's just a puppy thing?

Dennis McClaren posted:

We think she's maybe 9 months old. When we play catch and run around the yard, she only has about 10-15 mins of full-speed energy in her. Same with our walks - she doesn't last long. Is this normal for a 9month old puppy? Do they tire pretty easily?
Is she still able to keep up with a walk after she crashes or is she too exhausted to get up at all? Also, how long does it take for her to get her energy up again? Puppies are like children in that they can run through their steam really fast when they go hard and need frequent naps but a healthy puppy/child is usually up and at it again before not too long. I'd be worried if I had a pup that got tired after playing for 15 minutes and then wasn't interested in playing again for four hours. I'd take a dog like that to the vet.

Sprue fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Aug 25, 2017

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

Sprue posted:

I don't know if this is too niche, but does anyone here have any experience with herding? I have a 2 y/o Tervuren that I've been working with a fifty (soon to be a hundred) head flock of turkeys for a few weeks and it's going well but I'm having a hard time finding any information about teaching specific commands for free online. There are a lot of instructional VHS(!)/DVDs out there and I'm not opposed to spending money on a few videos, but I'd want a recommendation before I plunked down some cash on one.
And wow, if anyone has the opportunity to try their dog on livestock I can't recommend it enough! I was pretty weary of it at first and worked her for the first two or three days on a leash - in the past (when she was a year old) she had killed birds, but that was under very different circumstances and she never did a kill and shake bite, just wanted to grab them when chasing them. I think I've rooted that behavior out pretty well but she still isn't allowed near the flock unless I'm present for the time being. All she does right now is help me round them up into a shelter in the evening, but it's something that has previously taken a lone dogless individual thirty very frustrating minutes and this evening for the first time I was able to do it alone with her in under ten minutes. Anyways, I'm going to try adding more specific behaviors such as come-by/away to me and steady and would love to have a good conversation with someone who has experience working dogs in the field.
I also have a more general problem that I'm hoping someone can help me with. She seems to pick up what I call "superstitious" behaviors really easy. Things that she expects me to reinforce but that I don't want from her, usually something that I rewarded once early on as a step in shaping a behavior. For example, the problem I'm having right now is that I was teaching her to tighten up a grouping of turkeys by circling them, so I gave verbal praise and treated the first time she circled them and on the second time I just gave her verbal praise. But for whatever reason she appears to be convinced that I'm asking that of her every time I take her to the field. She'll circle them and then come sit for a treat even though I ignore her, then she'll try again circling twice and coming for a treat. So far I've just been completing ignoring her, but this evening I decided to wait her out and see if the behavior would extinguish itself but no, she spent easily ten minutes circling and coming to check for a reward while I ignored her. If I give a soft verbal correctional she'll stop but she'll start again within a minute. All this from just rewarding the behavior twice - and this isn't the only time this sort of thing has happened. Basically I want to figure out how to get her to stop offering that behavior to me nonstop - I don't want her to never circle, she needs to do that a lot, but right now I need her to offer me more behaviors then just that one over and over and over and over and..... All I can think to do is reward something else when she offers it to me, but she doesn't try new things enough when all she wants to do is circle and check in with me for a treat. It drives me a little batty when she gets into repetitive obsessive behaviors and I don't think I have the time or energy to wait for them to naturally extinguish :(

So tervs have a really different style than border collies, but I did lessons with my dog for a couple of years. I'm generally a positive reinforcement trainer, but not with herding - it was pretty much all verbal correction based. Getting to continue moving the sheep was intrinsically rewarding and built appropriate focus and drive. We had a lot of setbacks after each time she seized (epileptic), which I realized much later was persistent postictal vision changes as well as spaciness from med adjustments, which is why I gave it up.

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:

Engineer Lenk posted:

So tervs have a really different style than border collies, but I did lessons with my dog for a couple of years. I'm generally a positive reinforcement trainer, but not with herding - it was pretty much all verbal correction based. Getting to continue moving the sheep was intrinsically rewarding and built appropriate focus and drive. We had a lot of setbacks after each time she seized (epileptic), which I realized much later was persistent postictal vision changes as well as spaciness from med adjustments, which is why I gave it up.

That sucks I'm sorry :/ But ya what you says makes a lot of sense. I bring treats for her and she'll take them but choke on them half a time because she gulps them down as fast she can so she can get back to the flock - and it's treats she'd normally do anything for. I'm leery of using only verbal reinforcement in the field with her because she responds really well to verbal praise because her entire life it's frequently accompanied with other kinds of reinforcement and I don't want that correlation to weaken. But it makes sense that the job itself is the reward, I just don't know how I'd reinforce a down/stand/walk command since those things are significantly less fun for her then dashing at a turkey and have it flap around.

Engineer Lenk
Aug 28, 2003

Mnogo losho e!

Sprue posted:

That sucks I'm sorry :/ But ya what you says makes a lot of sense. I bring treats for her and she'll take them but choke on them half a time because she gulps them down as fast she can so she can get back to the flock - and it's treats she'd normally do anything for. I'm leery of using only verbal reinforcement in the field with her because she responds really well to verbal praise because her entire life it's frequently accompanied with other kinds of reinforcement and I don't want that correlation to weaken. But it makes sense that the job itself is the reward, I just don't know how I'd reinforce a down/stand/walk command since those things are significantly less fun for her then dashing at a turkey and have it flap around.

To clarify, I use verbal corrections - positive punishment like a sharp 'hey now' or a very stern voiced 'lie down'. She dragged a leash in a round pen for the first few lessons so she could be physically removed if she wasn't listening. Praise isn't effusive, usually just a 'there now' to mark when she's doing something right.

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



I haven't done herding (yet! some day) and I'm not sure about videos but I've been recommended the books Stockdog Savvy and Herding Dogs: Progressive Training when I asked in a group several years ago. I'm hoping to hit up a herding trial in October and ask some trainers if I can just help out. My current dog isn't suited to it but I have sheep know how and would love to hit the ground running with future dogs.

HungryMedusa
Apr 28, 2003


I've been posting over in the mutt thread about my new puppy and spaying costs, etc. There is a complication we have been going back and forth with the vet and getting quotes about, and that is the puppy has a pretty bad overbite. Her lower canines are far behind the upper and contacting the top of her mouth, making a little dent already. That's what I get for adopting a pup from a friend of a friend's accidental litter.

We plan to have the lower canines removed in 3-4 weeks so the jaw has a chance to grow without the lower canines in the way and the pokey tooth doesn't really injure her mouth. The vet has offered to spay her at the same time. She will be 13-14 weeks. It seems like a no-brainer and I know humane societies and so on early spay a lot. Is there any reason to wait on the spay? Doing both will save us money, but I want what's best for the dog.

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:

HungryMedusa posted:

Is there any reason to wait on the spay? Doing both will save us money, but I want what's best for the dog.

There are some reasons to wait for sexual maturity before spaying, such as decreased risk of cancer. On the other hand, as I understand it, anesthesia is a little dangerous for an animal's health and should be done as infrequently as possible, so it makes sense for them to perform both procedures at the same time in that sense. Medical opinion has swung back and forth a couple times on whether to spay/neuter early (or at all!) and as far as I can tell the increased risk of cancer/joint disorders doesn't seem seem to be so great that it would be irresponsible to do it at that age. I'd just follow my veterinarian's advice if I were you, since they know the health of the dog more then anyone of us could and probably wouldn't recommend spaying then if there was significant evidence that it was detrimental to the animal's health.

HungryMedusa
Apr 28, 2003


Sprue posted:

There are some reasons to wait for sexual maturity before spaying, such as decreased risk of cancer. On the other hand, as I understand it, anesthesia is a little dangerous for an animal's health and should be done as infrequently as possible, so it makes sense for them to perform both procedures at the same time in that sense. Medical opinion has swung back and forth a couple times on whether to spay/neuter early (or at all!) and as far as I can tell the increased risk of cancer/joint disorders doesn't seem seem to be so great that it would be irresponsible to do it at that age. I'd just follow my veterinarian's advice if I were you, since they know the health of the dog more then anyone of us could and probably wouldn't recommend spaying then if there was significant evidence that it was detrimental to the animal's health.

Thanks. I really do like the vet, but since she is new to us I have been trying to do my homework. I think we will end up doing both at the same time.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


My Dog2, adopted 3.5 weeks ago, has kind of long nails. We went to vet last Saturday for a new patient exam and we were going to try getting her nails clipped then but they only got one foot. My vet said she wouldn't be the first dog they had that might need anesthesia for a nail trim. She's super wiggly and whiney. I hadn't heard anyone needing that before, how common is it?

I've been playing with her feet and poking at her mouth and ears too. She didn't want to cooperate with the vet on that part of the exam either. I figure she'll come around eventually.

I've always trimmed my cats nails myself but I'm way less sure where to clip for the dogs. They've both got fairly dark nails and it's hard to see exactly where the quick is.

Dog1 is apparently extremely tolerant of me, and certain other people, poking at her. My neighbor is a vet student and she let her check out her nails and trim her back dew claw that was getting long. Dog1 was even fine getting a manicure at PetCo one day. I couldn't really tell that her nails were much shorter but I saw them getting clipped and filed. They looked nicely filed, I think she's just got longer nails than some dogs I see at the dog park.

I'm sure Dog2 will need a teeth cleaning eventually and we'll get her nails trimmed then. I just don't want them to be a problem in the meantime.

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



There are tons of dogs that are absolutely terrible for nail trims and do need to be sedated, that being said it's definitely something you can work on and improve. I'm pretty crazy about keeping nails short and neat so my dog's nails get dremeled every 10-14 days. I worked hard on making it a positive experience so I can put him in a stand/stay in front of a bowl of meatballs and just release him when he nails are done. He starts drooling as soon as I pick up my dremel and gets dejected if I use it for something else. I like the dremel because there's less of a risk of quiking him but it does take a little longer to condition the dog to the noise and feeling.

Here's some nail trim training videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cq5X8aV95E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2r-sd-NYphw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBKni77UfsQ

Here's some dark nail trimming tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwyB9SDTwto

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Instant Jellyfish posted:

There are tons of dogs that are absolutely terrible for nail trims and do need to be sedated, that being said it's definitely something you can work on and improve. I'm pretty crazy about keeping nails short and neat so my dog's nails get dremeled every 10-14 days.

I feel better hearing that. Dog2 has an unknown history as a stray so knowing it's not super uncommon and can be worked on helps a lot. She's a sweetie so maybe she'll let me try. I'll watch your videos before I give it a go.

I've had Dog1 since October and she's had her weird long dew claw trimmed once or twice and all her nails done once. The groomer didn't comment on her nails so maybe we're doing okay.

Freakbox
Dec 22, 2009

"And Tomorrow I can get Scared Another Day..."
Okay, I have an important question! The shelter gave my puppy advantix ii before he came home with me a week ago, but he really needs a bath. Does this stuff wash off?

It doesn't seem to work all that well anyway; I'm still finding live fleas on him. The vet gave me a dose of conboguard when I took him in for kennel cough- can he take that WITH the advantix or if it washes off? :ohdear:

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Freakbox posted:

Okay, I have an important question! The shelter gave my puppy advantix ii before he came home with me a week ago, but he really needs a bath. Does this stuff wash off?

It doesn't seem to work all that well anyway; I'm still finding live fleas on him. The vet gave me a dose of conboguard when I took him in for kennel cough- can he take that WITH the advantix or if it washes off? :ohdear:

You can bathe your dog any time other than the 24 hours before and after application of advantix ii. I'd call your vet's office real quick to ask if you can use the comboguard at the same time as the advantix.

Freakbox
Dec 22, 2009

"And Tomorrow I can get Scared Another Day..."

Instant Jellyfish posted:

You can bathe your dog any time other than the 24 hours before and after application of advantix ii. I'd call your vet's office real quick to ask if you can use the comboguard at the same time as the advantix.

Yeeeeah I realized right after posting that instead of being a shut in Millennial I could just call my vet and ask :shobon:. She said it was safe but I'll save it so I have something to give the little guy next month.

I've only owned senior and adult dogs before- this is my first puppy.

Dennis McClaren
Mar 28, 2007

"Hey, don't put capture a guy!"
...Well I've got to put something!
I've been going in order off of this great goon recommended site - http://sue-eh.ca/page40/page4/ and viewing a lot of YT channels, etc for training my puppy.
I've got her addicted to chew toys, and she loves them. But when she tires of the many she has to chew from, she starts in on my poor helpless furniture.
This wouldn't be a problem if we weren't in the middle of a 5 day tropical storm in Texas- but she has to stay indoors with me for awhile.

I'll just ask goons since I haven't gotten there yet in all my puppy training studies - How do you get your dog to just stick to it's chew toys, once you've gotten them hooked?

She's got a variety, the Kong dental chew, a tug chew, those launcher balls. I sometimes load them with treats when applicable. But eventually she moves on to other objects.

Evidence!

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag

Dennis McClaren posted:

I've been going in order off of this great goon recommended site - http://sue-eh.ca/page40/page4/ and viewing a lot of YT channels, etc for training my puppy.
I've got her addicted to chew toys, and she loves them. But when she tires of the many she has to chew from, she starts in on my poor helpless furniture.
This wouldn't be a problem if we weren't in the middle of a 5 day tropical storm in Texas- but she has to stay indoors with me for awhile.

I'll just ask goons since I haven't gotten there yet in all my puppy training studies - How do you get your dog to just stick to it's chew toys, once you've gotten them hooked?

She's got a variety, the Kong dental chew, a tug chew, those launcher balls. I sometimes load them with treats when applicable. But eventually she moves on to other objects.

Evidence!


Cycle them out every few days. Put some of them away out of sight , then bring them out and put the current ones away. It's like getting new toys every couple of days!

BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag
Does anyone have any suggestions for training two dogs to walk together? I've been working with mine separately on their leash skills and the going is slow but progressing. What I'd like though is to be able to walk with them together which is an impossibility right now. They pull and go in different directions and it's just a disaster waiting to happen. Frustrating because I can't even take them to the dog park together unless I have help.

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:

Dennis McClaren posted:

I'll just ask goons since I haven't gotten there yet in all my puppy training studies - How do you get your dog to just stick to it's chew toys, once you've gotten them hooked?

What a cute pup! Is she a mix? I love that coat pattern!
I'll tell you what I do, tho you might not like it cuz it's a bit of a pain. First of all I'd set up some sort of pen if you're not crate training to leave her in while you're away so she can't get at it - I've used a bathroom before, with a soft bed and water and plenty of toys. I'm a firm believer in not giving dogs the opportunity to make mistakes as much as is possible. And then when you're around, make sure to keep half an eye on her and when she goes for the furniture give her a firm "no" and as soon as she stops hand her a toy and praise her when she chews on it. Also I love "bitter apple" or any of the other chewing deterrents you can buy online or at any pet store - you just spray them where the dog likes to chew and it tastes so nasty they'll give it up. The only thing, that spray is just a quick fix and you still have to teach your dog that inanimate objects are not all chewable. Good luck!


Super Grocery Kart posted:

Does anyone have any suggestions for training two dogs to walk together? I've been working with mine separately on their leash skills and the going is slow but progressing. What I'd like though is to be able to walk with them together which is an impossibility right now. They pull and go in different directions and it's just a disaster waiting to happen. Frustrating because I can't even take them to the dog park together unless I have help.

Dang I've struggled with that myself. I teach leash walking by stopping whenever my dog pulls, which is not really possible to do when you have two dogs since it'd probably take them a long time to correlate the stopping with them pulling since half the time it isn't them. I still can't walk my partner's pitbull without one of those no-pull harnesses. I know it feels a little bit like giving up, but using one of those harnesses or a haltie is a loving life saver. Have you tried using one of those with both your dogs, at least until you have more time to work with them one on one?

DTaeKim
Aug 16, 2009

Hi goons,

I've got bad news and I could use some advice. My four year-old beagle just bit one of my 19 month old twin sons. My beagle has a known inferiority complex and likes to perch on couches or beds. We try to keep him off there because he starts growling if another dog or the twins come by. Usually he just hops off and goes elsewhere but the other day, he bit my son instead. First time in eighteen months.

My wife is in tears because she (rightfully so) suspects animal control will put down the guy once we turn him in. I don't think we can keep him in the house anymore though. Do I have other options in this case or are we going to have to turn him in?

DTaeKim fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 28, 2017

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:

DTaeKim posted:

Hi goons,

I've got bad news and I could use some advice. My four year-old beagle just bit one of my 19 month old twin sons. My beagle has a known inferiority complex and likes to perch on couches or beds. We try to keep him off there because he starts growling if another dog or the twins come by. Usually he just hops off and goes elsewhere but the other day, he bit my son instead.

My wife is in tears because she (rightfully so) suspects animal control will put down the guy once we turn him in. I don't think we can keep him in the house anymore though. Do I have other options in this case or are we going to have to turn him in?

This is just bad timing overall because our other beagle escaped our yard and there has been no sight of him since, so my wife is emotionally fragile at the moment.

poo poo, that sucks. Was it a warning nip or a gripping bite?

DTaeKim
Aug 16, 2009

Sprue posted:

poo poo, that sucks. Was it a warning nip or a gripping bite?

It looks like a gripping bite. Neither of us were in view when it happened aside from a cry from my son. In hindsight I should have taken pictures but the left half of my son's arm has puncture wounds and the right half looks like a tear.

In addition, I feel at fault for it because we knew what the beagle's fear triggers were and didn't address it this time before it happened.

DTaeKim fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 28, 2017

Ferryll
Sep 16, 2013

<3

It probably depends where you live.
In my county, there is a 3 bite rule. Three bite incidents and then they put the dog down.
A dog recently ripped a chunk off my friend's hand and gave 4 deep puncture wounds to her leg, but it only counts as one bite incident.
They had to quarantine the dog in their home for a week or so and paid her medical bills.

DTaeKim
Aug 16, 2009

We do not have any such rule in our area, so we don't HAVE to put the dog down. It's just a matter of a lack of trust at this point for the beagle when the twins are wandering about.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Super Grocery Kart posted:

Does anyone have any suggestions for training two dogs to walk together? I've been working with mine separately on their leash skills and the going is slow but progressing. What I'd like though is to be able to walk with them together which is an impossibility right now. They pull and go in different directions and it's just a disaster waiting to happen. Frustrating because I can't even take them to the dog park together unless I have help.

They make split leashes for walking two dogs. I've never tried one though so I don't know how well they work. The two dogs can't get too far apart and you have one handle.

My first dog has some pretty good leash manners and my new second dog is kind of figuring it out. The second dog is a bit smaller so she can't drag me around. She still zig-zags around but she's getting better at staying next to my other dog. My first dog did the same thing at first so I think she'll get it eventually.

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BAGS FLY AT NOON
Apr 6, 2011

A Soft Nylon Bag

Sprue posted:



Dang I've struggled with that myself. I teach leash walking by stopping whenever my dog pulls, which is not really possible to do when you have two dogs since it'd probably take them a long time to correlate the stopping with them pulling since half the time it isn't them. I still can't walk my partner's pitbull without one of those no-pull harnesses. I know it feels a little bit like giving up, but using one of those harnesses or a haltie is a loving life saver. Have you tried using one of those with both your dogs, at least until you have more time to work with them one on one?

Yeah, I use an Easy Walk no-pull harness with Jade, who is worse with one on one leash walking. She still pulls but is getting better. We went for a walk today and she did quite well on the way home. I use a traditional harness with Tarkus along with a leash with a traffic handle and he's doing quite well, but he's also better with voice commands so I feel more in control with him even though he's larger and can pull harder. I saw those 2 lead leashes that GoodBee mentioned in the pet store. I think that I'll try one once they've both gotten a little better alone.

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