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Fish and maybe some plants
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Jan 18, 2019 01:22
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BONGHITZ posted:Fish and maybe some plants same
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Jan 18, 2019 01:31
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I.... hm. I suppose it's just crazy enough to work.
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Jan 18, 2019 01:55
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BONGHITZ posted:Fish and maybe some plants Water!
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Jan 18, 2019 04:39
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Let's not go overboard, here. Big tank was pretty active this morning! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pouvgUH8Vtc Mozi fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 14:08
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Real talk, I say put a pair of apistogrammas in there and a small school of serpae tetras or similar
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Jan 18, 2019 14:17
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Oh wow, those are pretty fish... that would work well! Maybe will do that. I'm guessing the apistogrammas will chow down on dwarf shrimp? Edit: the only other thing I had been considering was some small type of rainbowfish, which I think are amazingly pretty. Mozi fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 15:35
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What rainbowfish species did you have in mind? I've been wanting some Blue Eyes (pseudomugils) for I don't know how long, luminatus seems to be a new one in the hobby, combining the blue iridescent stripe of cyanodorsalis, with the speckled fins of gertrudae and being redder than either of them. Honey blue eyes and forktails are both striking in their own way too. I don't really count them as rainbowfish but a lot of people seem to lump them together. Classic melanotaenia rainbows seem to all get much bigger, and I think they all have reputations as being possible jumpers. But I think with the dark sides and the corner position of the tank most fish would feel pretty secure, especially with a ton of plants. I'm limited to what's available and was thinking about setting up a semi brackish tank and trying some pacific blue eyes and some bumble bee gobies but that won't be happening any time soon. Got too many unfinished projects on the go already. I'm currently trying to buy a 90lt tank off the local Facebook buy swap and sell, it's a similar footprint to my existing 15g tanks, same length but a bit taller and deeper and I think the larger water volume is worth investing in. Sadly I don't think my current cheap garage shelving that I'm using for the stand could take the weight, it barely takes the weight now for what's on it and I've been wanting to replace it for ages. Having a spare tank to move fish into temporarily would at least make it easier to shuffle things around and get the shelving out. However the seller doesn't seem to want to cooperate and pin down a time for me to go grab the drat tank!
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Jan 18, 2019 17:46
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Yes those luminatus are amazing - maybe a school of those with the apistogrammas.
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Jan 18, 2019 20:06
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Mozi posted:Let's not go overboard, here. Jesus that tank (while very cool, I like the growth) gives me anxiety thinking about maintaining it. I'll stick to my 5g please. e: actually I'd like maybe a 20g so I could have stuff spaced out a little more and maybe some herbivorous fish like a couple SAE to hang out with my shrimp and talk about algae trends and poo poo. I'll take a photo maybe tomorrow of my tank since it's been awhile and I've made several plant changes and such. Edit:   VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Jan 19, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 20:10
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Very nice! And yeah, I have to do some sort of maintenance on that tank every other day. Still finishing off some staghorn algae but after that hopefully it will ease up a bit as far as water changes go (doing 50% every other day so I can do the heavy Excel dosing regularly, which is working well. No shrimp issues with that, BTW). Main thing is cleaning the HOB, the corys stir up dirt constantly and it's a pretty heavy bioload so it gets clogged quickly.
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Jan 19, 2019 16:33
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gently caress yeah I just bought that tank. Haven't set it up yet. How are you liking the light?
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Jan 19, 2019 17:15
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w00tmonger posted:gently caress yeah I just bought that tank. Haven't set it up yet. How are you liking the light? Do you mean my tank or the big one he posted? The light on my 5g is perfect - almost too bright actually. Much too bright for the anubia I had in there.
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Jan 19, 2019 17:43
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VelociBacon posted:Do you mean my tank or the big one he posted? The light on my 5g is perfect - almost too bright actually. Much too bright for the anubia I had in there. Your tank. Is it just the 5g? One I just bought is the 15g fluval flora kit they just put out
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Jan 20, 2019 03:30
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Yeah mine is just the 5g. I think the largest ones just use two of those lights from what I can see on the website. My only complaint is that I wish I could have them turn on slowly and not suddenly because it scares the gently caress out of my shrimp, they dart under cover etc. I know that's not a thing most lights have so I'm not that mad about it.
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Jan 20, 2019 03:47
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I moved recently and moved my fish tank with it. I took the same water with me and transfered it back into the tank, but it's been cloudy ever since. What can or should I do about cloudy water?
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Jan 20, 2019 15:37
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What's your water change regimen? Is this a filtered tank?
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Jan 20, 2019 16:09
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If its white, it's just bacteria but if it's green it could be algae. So your new tank position might be getting more light, or your new tapwater might contain more phosphates or other nutrients (have you done any water changes yet?). Bacteria will likely go away by itself after everything settles down, otherwise you might need to check the lighting situation to see if you can reduce it. It could just be particulates from breaking down aquasoil which were disturbed by moving, so if it's that it will settle in time. I don't know if your tank has aquasoil though! Got any pictures?
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Jan 20, 2019 16:17
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It's whitish and murky. I noticed the new cloudiness when I first set it up after moving but thought it would go away within a week or two. The particulates explanation seemed likely before but three weeks out it hasn't yet so I think it must be something else? The water was clean when I packed it but it did have to sit in storage for a few days so it's possible something got, uh, weird. I do a small change (10 percent, just about) on the weekly and it is filtered. I can upload pictures later ... It's quite cloudy in there now  My poor buddy.
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Jan 20, 2019 17:00
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Yeah that is lingering too long and sounds to me to be most likely bacterial, so water changing won't necessarily get rid of it. If you can get filter floss into your filter it might help, or if you have a sponge filter it might be worth giving it a gentle clean (squeeze in old tank water) so it's got room to grab more stuff from the water column. I had this kind of thing happen in my cory tank from accidental overfeeding and I think feeding less, small daily water changes and cleaning my sponge filter got rid of it (slowly, took about a week). I have some really fine fast clogging sponge filters and they worked a treat, but even more open pored filters might help since the bacterial films that grow on them are kind of sticky.
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Jan 20, 2019 17:56
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The snails I put in my second tank have begun to overtake it and leave the tank. I may have made a mistake. It IS actually clean though. So that worked.
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Jan 20, 2019 18:21
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Doc Fission posted:It's whitish and murky. I noticed the new cloudiness when I first set it up after moving but thought it would go away within a week or two. The particulates explanation seemed likely before but three weeks out it hasn't yet so I think it must be something else? The water was clean when I packed it but it did have to sit in storage for a few days so it's possible something got, uh, weird. Have you checked your ammonia/nitrites/nitrates? What kind of fish do you have? What’s the substrate/aquarium filter and did you keep those wet during the move? What do you mean exactly by filtered with regard to the water? It’s a bit late for this advice but the bulk of your beneficial bacteria are in the substrate/filter media. When relocating a tank you can typically keep those wet in the old tank water, add all new water when you set it back up, and then re-introduce your fish like you would when bringing home a new one. You may need to get more aggressive with your water changes for a bit to clear this up, but that kinda depends on some other factors that I’m asking about above.
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Jan 20, 2019 19:32
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Anyone have an opinion about adding an otocinclus to a 30 gallon tank with 7 pea puffers and a handful of cherry shrimp? This is the tank 
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Jan 21, 2019 20:40
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have an opinion about adding an otocinclus to a 30 gallon tank with 7 pea puffers and a handful of cherry shrimp? I don't know from personal experience, but the conventional wisdom is that otos will at the very least eat any babies your shrimp produce. That might be a good thing, if you don't want your tank to get as overrun as mine has become.
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Jan 21, 2019 20:55
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I was told they really didn't, and are one of the most shrimp safe fish ever. Also, otos are just awesome and cute but you do need to get them in a pack. Edit: I'm biased because otos are cute and sweet and awesome. Aerofallosov fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 21, 2019 21:34
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Aerofallosov posted:I was told they really didn't, and are one of the most shrimp safe fish ever. Also, otos are just awesome and cute but you do need to get them in a pack. this has been my experience as well, and I'd probably do 2-4 in a 30. I've had some that just stressed out and died but a handful I've had for several years that are super fat and made a mixed feeding school with an assortment of micro corys. I've seen them munch on bottom feeder pellets on occasion so they're omnivorous at least but I've never seen them go after anything.
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Jan 21, 2019 22:09
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Otocinclus and Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) are often mistaken for each other. If you're out to buy otos, make sure you check that they have sucker mouths before you bring them home. SAE will eat shrimp/fish eggs, Otocinclus shouldn't. That tank should be fine for some oto's but you may need to supplement their diet if there isn't enough algae for them. edit: got the names mixed up. Zaffy fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 01:51
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Zaffy posted:Otocinclus and Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) are often mistaken for each other. If you're out to buy otos, make sure you check that they have sucker mouths before you bring them home. SAE will eat shrimp/fish eggs, Otocinclus shouldn't. Perfect, no issues with the shrimp. I have them together in a different tank. O was more worried about the puffers with the oto
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Jan 22, 2019 16:55
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w00tmonger posted:Perfect, no issues with the shrimp. I have them together in a different tank. O was more worried about the puffers with the oto Practical Fishkeeping has some advice towards the bottom of the article about tankmates for pea puffers. In short, they add bioload and won't necessarily eat the algae you see, they can be difficult to get established and feed, but they're fast enough to evade the puffers and know how to avoid trouble. I love otos, they're like little sharks when they swim around so maybe it's worth a try.
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Jan 22, 2019 17:20
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Have a video of one of my shrimp this morning picking some driftwood clean and completely ignoring the heavy algae on nearby leaves. https://vimeo.com/312765260 A couple weeks ago I experimented with raising the in-tank filter outflow up higher to get more current in the tank and they really seem to like it. Happy days. I also wonder if I'm over-changing the water since they seem most active 3+ days after my water changes (with the exception of swimming around immediately after the change). VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jan 22, 2019 |
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Jan 22, 2019 20:50
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Hydrogen peroxide in an aquarium I'm using it to dose some black beard algae, and as wondering about the specifics. 1ml per 2 gallons, and I should be turning off the filter for an hour or so after dosing? Im treating a 30 gallon pea puffer/shrimp tank and a 55 gallon community tank. I left the filters on last night when I did this with a syringe and was wondering how much actual damage I may have caused. Im gathering from some research online that I should have turned off my filter as it'll effect the bacteria in there and move the peroxide from being directly on the algae which is what I want.
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Jan 23, 2019 16:21
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For algae dosing I've seen both syringing and dropping the water level so that the algae was above the water line and dosing it while out of the water, then refilling after a while giving it time to react. You're right about leaving the filter off but I think that's more to keep it localised rather than to prevent filter damage, I think 1ml of 3% peroxide is going to find plenty of organics to react with before it gets in your filter, it probably hasn't done a ton of damage despite being a very strong oxidiser. Doing some quick maths it works out that you'd have around 4 parts per million of peroxide assuming it distributed evenly without reacting to anything. They use 50-100ppm to sterilise hot tubs so you're way under that. I also know there's a device you can get to slow drip peroxide into shrimp tanks to help keep the organics down and it doesn't seem to hurt the filters in those either. So I'd not worry too much!
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Jan 23, 2019 17:53
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Nitrifying bacteria are facultative anaerobes, meaning they partake in aerobic respiration in the presence of oxygen but have alternative pathways for anaerobic respiration without. All organisms capable of aerobic respiration must produce enzymes (i.e. catalase) to neutralize the intermediate reactive oxygen species from said respiration that will otherwise damage the cell. Suffice to say that your beneficial bacteria in your filter will be under stress (they must divert energy from other functions to produce more catalase than normal) from peroxide exposure, but they should be fine up to a point. Spraying diluted peroxide on algae growing on plants follows a similar logic: plants are capable of aerobic respiration and thus produce catalase--most (perhaps all?) algae do not. They have no catalse to defend themselves from the bombardment of free radicals hydrogen peroxide induces. The idea is that while you stress the plant, it will survive, while the algae dies. Obviously, you can go to far and lose both. The main benefit of draining the water down and spraying vs dosing the tank is two-fold: you localize the potential damage to where the algae is, and you can use a lower concentration of peroxide to achieve the same therapeutic results with less collateral damage over-all.
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Jan 23, 2019 19:07
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I used to have a 29g aquarium full of Cherry Barbs & Cherry Shrimp and live plants and I friggin' loved it. But the missus didn't like that it smelled like Aquarium so it's gone. She is also gone now though so I kinda want to get back into this scene. Clown loaches are my favorite thing in the world, but I hear they need a very LONG tank? I know that some tanks of similar sizes can be very tall or very long, but what would you all say is the smallest tank that is long enough for Clowns? I'm sure it's 100+ gallons.
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Jan 24, 2019 00:26
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Well I got my new tank all planted up and ready and I noticed a small scratch/crack in the glass. Can't get a photo of it, it's about a half inch long and very small, can only see it from a certain angle. I can feel it with my fingernail on the inside of the tank. So that's a bummer - not really sure what I want to do. I put a post-it on the glass and marked the current length of it in the meantime. I'm sort of thinking if I leave it a week and it hasn't changed I might just roll with it...
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Jan 24, 2019 14:37
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Clown loaches are my favorite thing in the world, but I hear they need a very LONG tank? I know that some tanks of similar sizes can be very tall or very long, but what would you all say is the smallest tank that is long enough for Clowns? I'm sure it's 100+ gallons. Seriously Fish suggests 180cm x 60cm /6'x2' is the smallest footprint you'd want, and that is for 7 or 8 full sized adult fish - you could expect them to be a foot long and rather thick at full size. A typical tank of this scale would be 6x2x2 which looks to be over 150g. You could get away with smaller while they're younger, but they're not going to stay small and by starting out big you're avoiding a series of tank upgrades over the years. If what you love is the loachy attitude, rather than the specific colour that clowns have, you could try some of the smaller loach species like the spotted Botia kubotai, or the reticulated Yoyo loach, Botia almorhae as they only need 4 x 1.5 feet minimum. Or you could go bigger and have them in a robust community tank. Really I would recommend just working out the biggest tank you can afford/feel able to maintain/that your dwelling can structurally support and working backwards from there as to what fish you're able to keep. It's not fair on the fish to cram them into a too-small tank (and it will mean a lot more water changes in order to keep the fish healthy). Mozi if it's just a scratch I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's the sort of thing that can happen from hardscape slipping in the tank or someone accidentally doing maintenance with their diamond engagement ring on, and brushing it against the glass, etc. I don't think it becomes a risk for a fracture point unless it's a curved glass tank where the glass has a lot more tension in it. Since most of my tanks are second hand they're almost all scratched and it's hard to see the marks once water is in. The seams are always more of a problem than the glass itself in my experience.
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Jan 24, 2019 16:17
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I had a group of 8 clown loaches that I kept in a 180g (6'x2'). I would say that's the absolute smallest size tank, and I ended up selling mine because I felt the tank wasn't quite big enough to accommodate both them and the frontosa that I ended up keeping. Clown loaches are super awesome though, and it was a coin flip on keeping them vs. the frontosa.
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Jan 24, 2019 17:52
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Stoca Zola posted:Mozi if it's just a scratch I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's the sort of thing that can happen from hardscape slipping in the tank or someone accidentally doing maintenance with their diamond engagement ring on, and brushing it against the glass, etc. I don't think it becomes a risk for a fracture point unless it's a curved glass tank where the glass has a lot more tension in it. Since most of my tanks are second hand they're almost all scratched and it's hard to see the marks once water is in. The seams are always more of a problem than the glass itself in my experience. I'm just not sure if it's a scratch or a very small crack. Doesn't seem to be growing and it's full of water so I might just go with it. I would just hate to look back 3 years in the future when it's exploded and wish I had swapped it out. At least I have a wet vac already. Edit: I've decided what's going in it:  Apistogramma bitaeniate "Tefe", male and female pair  Pseudomugil luminatus, maybe 10 or so Unfortunately it's way to cold to get anything shipped to me right now and it might be a while before that changes. The tank, currently:  There will be a coconut hut in the back right when it arrives. Mozi fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 20:08
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I reckon you wouldn't feel a crack with your nail, it'd stay flush until it let go. Or if you could feel it on one side you'd have to be able to feel it on the other side too if it was a crack. That apisto looks pretty spectacular! I've never seen those before.
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Jan 25, 2019 04:51
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Me neither! I was just image searching everything that The Wet Spot offers. Fabulous fish... But I'm probably going to have to wait until March or later for the weather to warm up enough for shipping.
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Jan 25, 2019 13:47
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