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DoubleT2172 posted:I know we're talking weed wackers but do NOT go 40v Ryobi for a mower. Mine just died after 2 years, the blade won't spin up but batteries are good and the self driving and LEDs work, and I was on hold for more than 2 hours yesterday with customer service with no one picking up. If you look online seems tons of Ryobi mowers are dying after a couple years. Back to gas it is for a mower I've had one for like four years, although not self propelled.
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May 10, 2024 14:15
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Danhenge posted:I've had one for like four years, although not self propelled. All I know is if I spend $400 on a mower (direct tools outlet so it was a $600 model at Home Depot) and it breaks a hair over 2 years old I'm not supporting that tool. My buddy bought the crosscut self propel model and the first year his self propel broke where if he tries to use it the mower dies. And we don't have any service centers nearby to help with warranty, and as I said 2 hours on hold with no one picking up to even try to get warranty. Big pass
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May 10, 2024 14:44
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Thank you everyone for the responses on the battery yard tools. I was just gifted a pair of Milwaukee drivers and it appears that they use the same battery, so I think I'll start there.
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May 10, 2024 16:14
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Spelling Mitsake posted:
https://www.amazon.com/Moen-104421-Cartridge-Puller-Cartridges/dp/B00083EC6C If your cartirdge is not one of the ones listed for that tool just search for "moden cartidge extractor <model>" and you should find the right tool or kit. A local plumbing supply should have one, and if you have a very good hardware store they might too.
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May 10, 2024 17:47
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Motronic posted:https://www.amazon.com/Moen-104421-Cartridge-Puller-Cartridges/dp/B00083EC6C I think OP is past the point where this tool would help, but it would definitely help anyone else with these cursed cartridges. Buy now and avoid this mess when the time comes!
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May 10, 2024 21:48
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SpartanIvy posted:I think OP is past the point where this tool would help, but it would definitely help anyone else with these cursed cartridges. Buy now and avoid this mess when the time comes! Yeah, good point. Probably on to the extractor kit: https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Premier-Cartridge-Extractor-Posi-Temp/dp/B08T1ZG6VH/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&sr=1-7
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May 10, 2024 21:51
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Appreciate the advice. I ended up destroying the cartridge with a hammer and screw driver...
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May 10, 2024 22:35
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I like that method too.
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May 11, 2024 00:43
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Synnr posted:Feel free to point me elsewhere if there's a better thread for this: Some kind of multiport manifold?
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May 11, 2024 02:56
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I need to re-caulk a bathroom, but I've never caulked anything in my life. It doesn't seem particularly hard and I want to give it a shot myself. Is there a "best technique" for reasonable ease-of-application? Small beads and scrape it flat? Painters tape and direct application? Something else?
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May 13, 2024 05:53
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PRADA SLUT posted:I need to re-caulk a bathroom, but I've never caulked anything in my life. It doesn't seem particularly hard and I want to give it a shot myself. Slow speed with consistent pressure. It'll also keep coming out a bit after you let go of the trigger. While it is wet you can dip your finger in water to run across the caulk to smooth it out. Then take a sponge or rag to clean up the overspill.
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May 13, 2024 06:15
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I was looking at those caulk remover / shaper tools. They're like  Worth it for the ease of shaping?
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May 13, 2024 06:57
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I guess but I've done it all with a wet finger or the back of a spoon.
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May 13, 2024 07:09
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What parts of the bathroom are you caulking and are we talking typical acrylic caulk or are you running silicone to waterproof stuff? The former is pretty easy to manipulate with a wet finger and rag to wipe the excess. Kind of hard to really mess up Silicone is trickier though and will want to stick to most things and not wash off with water. The trick I’ve used is to spray a little windex to keep it from sticking.
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May 13, 2024 09:57
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PRADA SLUT posted:I was looking at those caulk remover / shaper tools. They're like In my research on caulking, I learned that ideally you create a chamfered edge, using one of those tools that has a straight end. The caulk line should be flat, not a convex surface like what’s created with a fingertip. If that makes sense. In my caulking practice, I ended up like an infant covered in peanut butter but it was silicone caulk and I was content when the ordeal was over, hosed up caulking and all.
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May 13, 2024 11:59
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Read the cleanup instructions on the tube. They'll probably mention a solvent for cleanup. Have that handy, and a poo poo-ton of rags or paper towels, and a bag to put those in. You'll almost certainly apply too much caulk, and it's way easier to clean off the excess while it's still wet. Caulk is sticky and gums up everything though, so you want to be prepared.
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May 13, 2024 12:00
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I need to redo the caulk around my bathtub. I'm guessing step #1 is removing the old stuff?
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May 13, 2024 13:57
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PRADA SLUT posted:I need to re-caulk a bathroom, but I've never caulked anything in my life. It doesn't seem particularly hard and I want to give it a shot myself. Uthor posted:I need to redo the caulk around my bathtub. I'm guessing step #1 is removing the old stuff? Here's a newbie This Old House on the bathtub situation that's equally applicable for any first-time caulker doing anything indoors that has to look good. https://youtu.be/AcgErpZ_D0c?si=W4A0MJPzxYA8mAkF The painters tape thing isn't really needed for outdoor stuff, but I use it all the time to make things cleaner, as I suck at it.
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May 13, 2024 14:24
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I’ll be doing shower, so waterproof. Also like the edges of the sink and a freestanding bathtub. Caulking to tile if it matters.
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May 13, 2024 19:25
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Synnr posted:Feel free to point me elsewhere if there's a better thread for this: Does your job/university have a machine shop? If so, ask them if they can machine a custom little manifold. We have tons of those around my workplace that our machine shop has made for various applications, usually machined out of plastic with screw in fittings (i think). edit: or you can just buy a premade manifold block and get the proper fittings for the ports you need + caps for the ones you dont.
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May 13, 2024 22:44
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I'm trying to setup a rainwater system for my garden but I don't have any plumbing or PVC experience, so I'd like some advice on my short term and long term goals: Short term goal is to use the rain barrels and small electric pump I already have to move water about 100ft to this 325 gallon water tank I elevated on about 20" of cinder blocks next to the garden. The plan is to pump the water from each rain barrel to the big tank whenever they're full (they fill all the way up in any decent rain, and hold about 160 gallons total or half of the big tank), then use gravity to drip irrigate the garden and have a separate spigot to fill watering cans or attach a hose and drain it for the winter. I got a 2" male threaded PVC adapter that fits the big water tank, along with a 2" PVC valve, and I figure from there I can maybe get a reducer and tee to have two 3/4" hose attachments. Anything to watch out for with the PVC or specific fixtures to use? Will some teflon tape be enough of a water-seal to the main tank? Should I support the outlet/spigot setup or should it be fine attached to the (very heavy) tank? Long term goal is to have my rain barrels plus my sump pump all drain to a large dry well/underground tank or something and pump the rain/groundwater to the main tank. This will be trickier, and I'm not even sure using sump pump water is a good idea (don't see why not, it's just groundwater), but I'd really like to not have to go out there and move the pump around to each of my rain barrels to fill my main water tank halfway. Should I get rid of the barrels and directly connect my downspouts to the drywell/underground storage/valve box, along with the sump pump discharge? I also could keep the barrels and connect them by the overflow outlets leaving the spigots on them free (I kinda like how they look, plus then I'd still have rainwater available for the plants around the house). Do I even need a drywell/underground tank if I'm sending it all to my garden tank? I could just put an overflow outlet on that, and then any extra rainwater or sump pump water would be far away from the house. Even without the drywell/tank I'll at least need a way to connect the rain barrels and sump pump (valve box?) and then dig an underground line going to the garden. There's nothing but lawn between the sump pump and the big water tank, plus the house is at a slightly higher elevation than the garden so if I could I'd like to let gravity take it to the base of the big tank, then use the 120v in the detached garage next to the garden to power the pump to fill it. Any general advice? I'm gonna plan this one out and likely not even attempt it until the fall, I think my short term solution will work well enough for one summer (and is much better than last year's strategy of hauling 5 gallon buckets from the house to the garden over and over). Dance McPants fucked around with this message at 03:54 on May 14, 2024 |
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May 14, 2024 03:52
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What state are you in? It's actually illegal in some states to collect rainwater. Others have laws on it that you must follow.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:46 on May 14, 2024 |
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May 14, 2024 17:44
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Michigan. it's very legal where I am (they give out rain barrels sometimes), and anything I don't collect goes to the ditch by the road and eventually to the city drain.
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May 14, 2024 18:10
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kid sinister posted:What state are you in? It's actually illegal in some states to collect rainwater. Others have laws on it that you must follow. Really? Huh! Fake edit, looks like Milwaukee says you need a permit to collect underground, connect to the water supply, or go inside the house. Everything else is allowed.
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May 14, 2024 18:44
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Most of those laws are 100+ years old and were put in place to prevent farmer bill from collecting all the rain runoff from his property, preventing farmer Bob downstream from being able to water his crops and livestock.
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May 14, 2024 22:57
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wesleywillis posted:Most of those laws are 100+ years old and were put in place to prevent farmer bill from collecting all the rain runoff from his property, preventing farmer Bob downstream from being able to water his crops and livestock. And you thought you hated your neighbors!
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May 14, 2024 23:46
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yeah in lots of places they have independently monitored agencies that monitor the inlets farmers use to divert water from local rivers and streams to make sure everybody is getting theoretically the amount of water equal to the rainfall over their land, and if you get caught loving with their valves or whatever to get more water you risk big fines and/or your downstream neighbor coming up and solving the problem himself. Pretty sure that's where the expression "he draws a lot of water in this town" came from. It's the exact opposite here in SouthEast Michigan, being very flat and like 90% paved the game is getting rid of rainwater by whatever means necessary. Counties and utilities give away rain barrels or subsidize them along with native plants that hold more water and more and more medians and green spaces that used to be turf are now giant rain gardens or natural landscapes. I just got a free American Elm sapling from 1-800-MISSDIG cause my sister won their trivia contest (the question was literally "what number should you call before you dig?"). Sorta related here's a pic of one of about a dozen sewer overflow basins in Detroit used so the combined storm/sanitary system and wastewater plant don't get overwhelmed anytime it rains: (spoilered for  )https://i.imgur.com/a/vrjIo3Z
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May 15, 2024 16:32
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My kitchen is not ventilated at all but I don't know how to fix it. Issues:
Here's a sketch:  My best guess is that the most efficient solution would be a vent that goes through the back wall, passes along the dining room table ceiling, and then blows out into the patio like this, but that seems kinda cartoonish and I am wondering if I am missing something obvious. 
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May 15, 2024 19:42
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Could you take it up into the ceiling and then route it between joists?
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May 15, 2024 19:49
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Deteriorata posted:Could you take it up into the ceiling and then route it between joists? Interesting! I guess there's a 50/50 chance the joists wind up pointing towards the patio? I guess I'll get up there this evening and start knocking around to see which way they run.
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May 15, 2024 20:36
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Corla Plankun posted:Interesting! I guess there's a 50/50 chance the joists wind up pointing towards the patio? I guess I'll get up there this evening and start knocking around to see which way they run. There's a 100% chance that someone looking at your house could tell you. What you presented isn't sufficient information to give you any real advice. There are too many variables that require someone with expereince actually looking at your house.
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May 15, 2024 20:42
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I've got an old coax cable looped up in the corner of my living room, it runs to a former satellite mount on the carport I have no intention of using and this is the opposite side of the house from the cable drop so I can't repurpose it. What's the best practice to remove this cable and seal the hole where it was passed through the exterior wall? Just caulk the sucker? Some kind of plug + caulk?
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May 16, 2024 01:18
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Arrath posted:I've got an old coax cable looped up in the corner of my living room, it runs to a former satellite mount on the carport I have no intention of using and this is the opposite side of the house from the cable drop so I can't repurpose it. There’s probably a better answer to this, but I’d just use some of this duct seal compound on the outside, and then just fix up the wall on the inside (replace the coax jack with a blank plate, or patch the drywall/spackle depending on how delicate or barbaric the original installer was).
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May 16, 2024 01:33
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Arrath posted:I've got an old coax cable looped up in the corner of my living room, it runs to a former satellite mount on the carport I have no intention of using and this is the opposite side of the house from the cable drop so I can't repurpose it. What sort of siding is the hole through? Duct putty will probably work but there are potentially better options for certain materials (wood filler for wood, quickcrete for brick, etc...). The last time I did this i was in a rush so i filled a large hole in brickwork with outdoor caulk and called it a day lol. I'm gonna have to replace it when I'm next working in that area but it's not high on the list Slanderer fucked around with this message at 01:43 on May 16, 2024 |
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May 16, 2024 01:40
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Corla Plankun posted:My kitchen is not ventilated at all but I don't know how to fix it. Typically I recommend adding kitchen ventilation only when you're renovating the kitchen, it's not an easy thing to add. You not only have the ducting issues that you have identified, but fan power and other stuff to figure out. With regards to your question of where to place the exhaust on the exterior, you need to avoid operable windows and doors as well as intakes. 2018 IRC says the exhaust needs to be three feet at a minimum, except in certain conditions related to mechanical air intakes where ten feet is required. Check your local code, just wanted to give you some general parameters to think about. If there are too many windows we typically change one to a fixed picture window or eliminate it entirely to make the clearances work. Another reason why 'kitchen renovation' is the right time to do this kind of alteration.
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May 16, 2024 05:31
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How do the measurements work when ordering a door? For example, we got a door whose literal slab dimensions (the door itself) is 31.75" x 78.5". Do we order a 32" x 80" pre-hung door to replace it? How is the trim factored into the numbers?
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May 17, 2024 08:50
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Your pre-hung door is only going to care about the size of your rough opening it is going into, since it is, well, pre-hung.
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May 17, 2024 12:52
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Hi guys. My friend was housesitting and he accidentally broke my towel bar - it's the kind with fixed ceramic ends in the shower. The bar came off clean but the little end caps and springs seem to have disappeared. Anyone have any tips before I venture into the Google zone?
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May 17, 2024 13:34
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Doc Fission posted:Hi guys. My friend was housesitting and he accidentally broke my towel bar - it's the kind with fixed ceramic ends in the shower. The bar came off clean but the little end caps and springs seem to have disappeared. Anyone have any tips before I venture into the Google zone? I broke a 1960s era plastic bar with ceramic ends that match the tile. I was able to find a replacement on ebay with a spring-in end to replace it. It's a pretty common thing and they're not too pricey, you just cut the one you buy down to fit and put the spring end in and pop it in place. Just match the style of the original as much as possible or if it's intact there's spring ends available separately, just measure the bar to get the right size. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=towel+bar+replacement It's been forever so I don't remember the exact one I bought but it was very similar to this which is a clear plastic with ridges running down it: https://www.amazon.com/PROPLUS-GIDDS-553018-Towel-Only-Clear/dp/B008MG3M5Y/
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May 17, 2024 13:44
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Rexxed posted:I broke a 1960s era plastic bar with ceramic ends that match the tile. I was able to find a replacement on ebay with a spring-in end to replace it. It's a pretty common thing and they're not too pricey, you just cut the one you buy down to fit and put the spring end in and pop it in place. Just match the style of the original as much as possible or if it's intact there's spring ends available separately, just measure the bar to get the right size. This is great, thank you! oh, but can I ask what I should use to cut it with? I don't do a lot of DIY stuff (am a lifelong renter and generally not-handy girl) 
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May 17, 2024 13:52
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