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Duraflex CS looks very interesting. I'm gonna have to ask around about that. My gut feeling is that yeah, that advice is still valid and I wish there was a better way to deal with ticks than something that also kills pollinators, but your "this is an island, there is plenty of space outside of it" makes sense to me. Garlic spray works great for me, not so much for others, depends on your mosquito breed. Are you comfortable giving a general area of the world for this cabin? Might help with specific incest type and what's available. I'll be happy to bring this up in my next ag extension pesticide discussions because it's a really good use case and depending on where you are some not-pesticide integrated pest management practices might help a lot but that also gets into site specifics.
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May 4, 2022 00:39
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Motronic posted:l
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May 4, 2022 01:38
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Motronic posted:Might help with specific incest type and what's available. Like, what are you doing, step-exterminator? I’m so stuck underneath this bedbug-free bed. 
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May 4, 2022 02:16
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Thanks! Yea if there are options that are out there I'd love to know. Feel free to bring up, I would appreciate it. Location is North-Western Wisconsin along the St Croix River. On the property we have sandy loam soil (drains fast), and it is low lying, so bogs, ponds, lakes, prairie and forest. The specific treatment area is forest right up to buildings, bordered by a lakefront* with the before mentioned 25k sq ft area. The other site management thing we're doing over the next few years is to cut the forest and vegetation back 100' from the buildings for a defensible wildfire space (lean n' green). Pests are Deer Ticks (Ixodes scapularis) and Wood Ticks (Dermacentor variabilis), thankfully no lone-star yet. No idea the mosquito type. Slugworth posted:Man, I don't know if I'd bring this up at the ag extension. *: I am extremely careful to give a huge margin away from the water and any non-permeable surface that could run off into the lake, per the label.
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May 4, 2022 02:18
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Slugworth posted:Man, I don't know if I'd bring this up at the ag extension. Blue Moonlight posted:Like, what are you doing, step-exterminator? I’m so stuck underneath this bedbug-free bed. lol called on the typo. horse_ebookmarklet posted:Thanks! Yea if there are options that are out there I'd love to know. Feel free to bring up, I would appreciate it. Location is North-Western Wisconsin along the St Croix River. On the property we have sandy loam soil (drains fast), and it is low lying, so bogs, ponds, lakes, prairie and forest. The specific treatment area is forest right up to buildings, bordered by a lakefront* with the before mentioned 25k sq ft area. The other site management thing we're doing over the next few years is to cut the forest and vegetation back 100' from the buildings for a defensible wildfire space (lean n' green). Okay, so biggest thing here is wetlands/water. That's a whole thing where you need to be a lot more careful. We're not in the same general area (I'm in eastern PA) so you should really find your local (to the cabin) county ag extension and ask them about the best practice to control those local "incests".
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May 4, 2022 02:26
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Tick status: vanquished. I definitely averaged less than the 1oz/1ksqft ratio. I did ~15oz in ~30ksq foot. Needs suited, probably won't up the concentration depending on the persistence.  In related news, a guest up here said he killed a German Cockroach in the kitchen, poo poo. He showed me the corpse and I've definitely seen those buggers up in the attic (thought they were beetles), but never down in the living spaces. Not sure what to do next. Already keep a pretty tidy place (due to mouse pest concerns) but I suppose I can up the effort. Pest control company? Bait? Some sort of bug bomb? Doing some googling makes it sound like an impossible to solve problem, but managing them out of the living spaces is minimum goal. I don't understand how they survive winter. The whole place hard-freezes, attic can get as low as 10F, kitchen 0F. Over the winter I remove all human food, but I suppose I leave soaps and mouse-bucket bait.
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May 29, 2022 04:03
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Long ago I gardened in the East, and I hated Japanese beetles with a flaming fury. I also hated the stink in the Japanese beetle traps after it rained on the dead beetles. (The kind with the four yellow vanes and a bag the beetle drops into after colliding with the vane). In the Journal of I Read It Somewhere Studies, I learned that the pheromone traps seem to attract more beetles than they kill, so what you really want is for your neighbor to put one in. Did this turn out to be true? I'm in California, where we periodically have isolated infestations and go in hard, but there's no statewide presence yet.
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Jun 1, 2022 18:07
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Did this turn out to be true? I'm in California, where we periodically have isolated infestations and go in hard, but there's no statewide presence yet. There will be soon.
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Jun 2, 2022 05:18
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Long ago I gardened in the East, and I hated Japanese beetles with a flaming fury. I also hated the stink in the Japanese beetle traps after it rained on the dead beetles. (The kind with the four yellow vanes and a bag the beetle drops into after colliding with the vane). In the Journal of I Read It Somewhere Studies, I learned that the pheromone traps seem to attract more beetles than they kill, so what you really want is for your neighbor to put one in. 100% true according to all of my ag extension pest management coursework. The only real and effective treatment for japanese beetles is the correct pesticide applied at the correct two times of year when the grubs are close enough to the surface for it to be effective. The fun part is I can't tell you when time of year that is for you other than "late spring to summer" and "fall-ish maybe" because it depends on soil temps. It's a huge pain in the rear end that I've not really got a great handle on myself at this point. Fortunately I don't have much of a problem right where I'm at, but people nearby do so that could always change.
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Jun 2, 2022 15:11
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Oh, for gently caress'S sake.
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Jun 2, 2022 17:53
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I have two small wasp nests above the second floor window on my house, facing my backyard. I'd like to get rid of them. The only way i can get remotely near them is with a ladder. I am also 35, have a child, and most of my initial ideas like "put on protective garments, keep kid inside, climb up with a hose and blast them with a high pressure stream" seem like they might present too high a risk of injury or death. Is there a relatively non idiotic way I could tackle them myself or is this something I should call in a pro for?
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Jun 2, 2022 21:24
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Benagain posted:I have two small wasp nests above the second floor window on my house, facing my backyard. I'd like to get rid of them. The only way i can get remotely near them is with a ladder. I am also 35, have a child, and most of my initial ideas like "put on protective garments, keep kid inside, climb up with a hose and blast them with a high pressure stream" seem like they might present too high a risk of injury or death. Is there a relatively non idiotic way I could tackle them myself or is this something I should call in a pro for? There are a few commonly available treatments in spray cans that are designed to have a pretty long reach, but two floors might be pushing it. Worth asking at the local hardware store or garden center. The pro solution to this would also be from the ground, no ladder, but an applicator that looks more like a pressure washer or backpack sprayer with a specific nozzle on it to get that kind of reach.
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Jun 2, 2022 22:17
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Oh, for gently caress'S sake. It’s extremely shortsighted of these so‐called environmentalist groups to oppose the CDFA program. The alternative isn’t that Californians live in harmony with the the bugs. The alternative is that every grower in the state has to deploy way more pesticides just to thin their numbers.
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Jun 3, 2022 02:54
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Huh, I've been exploring corners of SA for relevant interests lately since I need a distraction from *gestures vaguely to entire world*. I've been dealing with pests for years. I regularly kill moles, mice, shrews, squirrels, chipmunks, and find fun ways to deter birds, racoons, and bears since I legally cant kill those. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for trapping ideas as well as offering goons advice on how to dispatch pests where I feel like my experience is relevant.
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Jun 12, 2022 19:26
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um excuse me posted:Huh, I've been exploring corners of SA for relevant interests lately since I need a distraction from *gestures vaguely to entire world*. I've been dealing with pests for years. I regularly kill moles, mice, shrews, squirrels, chipmunks, and find fun ways to deter birds, racoons, and bears since I legally cant kill those. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for trapping ideas as well as offering goons advice on how to dispatch pests where I feel like my experience is relevant. Tell us more how you harass wildlife 
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Jun 12, 2022 20:37
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I do my best to suppress their voting rights.
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Jun 12, 2022 21:16
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horse_ebookmarklet posted:Checkin in, I'm planning to do the same thing discussed on the first page of this thread. Weekend cabin, must kill wood/deer ticks and put a dent in mosquitos. Tick tubes - they're basically toilet paper tubes with permethrin soaked cotton in them. They're pretty easy to DIY, or you can buy them commercially (for comically high amounts of money for what they are). The theory is you scatter them around where mice are likely to be, the mice grab the cotton to use for their nests, which kills off any ticks attached to them. This disrupts the tick life cycle, as mice are a pretty common host for larva.
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Jun 13, 2022 00:47
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I guess this is the best thread for this. I think I have something making tunnels in my backyard. I noticed in one corner a LOT of soft spots as I was stepping, then reworded it was beyond soft, it was collapsible into a tunnel. Hard to tell in pictures but they look like this:   Not sure if it's moles...voles... I've also noticed a rabbit or two in my yard, pretty sure they have a den under my shed and/porch. Plenty of my plants have been nibbled, probably a mish max of animals. I also see plenty of squirrels and chipmunks. All the leaves off of ~a dozen bush beans were ate (beans approx. Three weeks old? Like 5" tall,) a couple cuke seedlings eaten, and one whole tomato seedling completely eaten off the stem, just like 1" left poking out above the dirt. Got a fence up around some of my stuff, that seems to have stopped the worst of it, but if there's animals tunneling in my yard of light to put a stop to that.
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Jun 13, 2022 23:29
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Whereabouts you live? Specifics are not necessary but a general area to know what pests are possible and likely is pretty useful. But yeah, that looks like voles/moles/chipmunks/whatever, likelihood of which or something else increases with what's more common where you live. At least you don't have groundhogs 
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Jun 14, 2022 01:52
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DrBouvenstein posted:I guess this is the best thread for this. Without any further context it looks like the mole tunnels I get. I have a couple of stainless spike traps. It takes some getting used to setting them up correctly, but they work well and the pros use them. I actually dont set them according to the directions because I find the moles dig deeper than the traps can reach. I open up the tunnel, fill it with dirt to the roof of the tunnel, set the trap in, and then bury the trigger paddle a little. https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Plunger-Style-Quick-Clean/dp/B00004RAMS/ There are also the scissor type traps which I have not personally used. https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Tek-1001-EasySet-Eliminator/dp/B06XTVMF4H/
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Jun 14, 2022 02:06
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Moronic, what's the southeast pa gnat control solution? These little assholes keep landing in my Scotch. Half joking, but if there's a solution that's not going to kill kids or pets I'm all ears.
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Jun 17, 2022 00:28
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Alarbus posted:Moronic, what's the southeast pa gnat control solution? These little assholes keep landing in my Scotch. Okay this is a super white-trash solution, but we setup a crappy little bug zapper in our kitchen and it's worked wonders at keeping the gnats knocked back. A few times a day we here a little *zap* and we haven't had an issue with gnats in weeks. Obviously this only works for indoors. If you're enjoying your scotch in the heat then I have no suggestions beyond the usual Talstar P. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 01:05
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Talstar P is of course a go-to, but depending on where you're sitting figure out how to get a fan on you. Covered porch? Install outdoor ceiling fans. Patio? Big stand up fan. It's really, really nice. Not just for keeping bugs away.
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Jun 17, 2022 01:41
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I've been using Ortho Home Defense to spray the perimeter of my house, largely to keep American roaches out (coastal NC), which appears to be bifenthrin. It seems to do a pretty good job, but we still get the occasional one creeping in. I'm looking to switch to a concentrate - Stick with the bifenthrin, or switch to something else? Any considerations for a sprayer? I was just gonna grab the Ryobi 18v one. I've got the combat roach bait stations all over the house, swapping them out every few months. No sign of an actual infestation. (Unless I'm wildly mistaken - We're relatively new to the south, and my understanding is with the American roaches, occasionally spotting them isn't quite the same as spotting germans).
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Jun 17, 2022 02:30
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I wish the back deck was covered. Oh well, guess I'll look for a fan anyway. Thanks guys! I actually have a bug zapper, I use it in the garage when I use the propane burner for brewing beer. Best janky solution I've seen in a commercial brewery was one of these things right above a trash can for keeping flies down inside. Goddamn acetobacter.
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Jun 17, 2022 03:16
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Slugworth posted:I've been using Ortho Home Defense to spray the perimeter of my house, largely to keep American roaches out (coastal NC), which appears to be bifenthrin. It seems to do a pretty good job, but we still get the occasional one creeping in. I'm looking to switch to a concentrate - Stick with the bifenthrin, or switch to something else? Any considerations for a sprayer? I was just gonna grab the Ryobi 18v one. You're always going to have the occasional roach that creeps in. They live outside and find their way in every once in a while. Usually when it's wet or hot outside and your house is dry and cool. The purpose of the poison is so that they die after they go through it, and into your house. That way they can't lay their little egg sacks and you stop any infestation from happening. German roaches are a more serious concern. They're not supposed to live in nature here but I've found them outside before. They are definitely less common than American roaches though and are more likely to start an infestation in your home. Luckily the perimeter poison should also affect and kill them even if they get in. I go with a 3 layer approach to pest defense. There's outer-perimeter and yard, where I put down granules and Talstar P concentrate. There's the outer house perimeter where I put down Taurus SC specifically for carpenter ants and termites, but also affects roaches. Then finally there's inside the house where I will put down bait tablets, Delta Dust, and other chemicals as I feel they are needed. It's also important to seal your house where you can. Especially if it's an older home. I've got a few cans of expanding foam and as I do house projects I try to seal up penetrations around pipes, wiring, wood seams, and anywhere else as I come across gaps and holes. The more you can limit the movement of the pests, the more likely they are to find and succumb to your poison before they find a way inside the livable envelope of your home.
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Jun 17, 2022 04:12
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I've got mice in my kitchen. It started just a week ago when I notice my bananas had been eaten from the bottom up for about an inch. So far I've used the spring traps to kill 2 of them, but I know (due to a camera) that there's at least one more. It looks like they are coming from behind my stove. Other than continuing to try and trap them as well as the poison, is there anything like mothballs or something that might make my home seem to be not a good place to live? Edit: Just found this post on the last page (I only looked at the first 2 before posting) Rexxed posted:If you see one mouse there's definitely more than one. Ultrasonic does nothing, it's pseudoscience at best and a scam at worst. They might not like the sound but it won't stop them from going for food. Get a container for your dog's food that has a lid that seals and is made of decent plastic, reasonably thick. Also put any dry goods that you have in sealing containers. I've found that they'll chew into instant oatmeal packets, crackers, etc, although they love to dive into the trash can for scraps of whatever from ketchup packets to ham scraps to cantaloupe seeds. Getting a simplehuman can with a lid that closes has stopped that. Are there obvious signs of entry points I should be looking for? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 12:18 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 11:33
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Follow the poop trail, baby. They sure like poopin'. That's how I find where mine gets in
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Jun 24, 2022 12:55
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um excuse me posted:Follow the poop trail, baby. They sure like poopin'. That's how I find where mine gets in Are they in my walls, or are they coming in from outside? Also, any tips for the spring traps? The video had them pretty much tap dancing on the victory ones without them tripping, until one managed to finally set one of them off. I still have video of the other one happily helping itself to the peanut butter on the untriggered traps. I have one of the ones with the metal trigger, and 2 of the ones with the plastic trigger. So far both of the ones I've caught were with one of the plastic ones. This morning I wedged a peanut into the metal one, so hopefully that might end up making it trigger more reliably. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 13:07
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You can adjust the sensitivity of the trigger pad on traditional snap traps like Victors by bending the trip bar. Arch it upwards to make it more sensitive, arch it downwards to make it less sensitive. An exterminator taught me that, but I find they're largely sensitive enough out of the packaging if you use the "sensitive" side of the trigger pad when setting the trip bar into it. If they're ignoring your traps, try making a honey pot where you bait the traps a dozen times without setting it until they start letting their guard down. Then set it.
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Jun 24, 2022 13:24
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Gel bait is magic poo poo for traps, too. I was getting one every other day when I had them last fall.
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Jun 24, 2022 13:54
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the yeti posted:Gel bait is magic poo poo for traps, too. I was getting one every other day when I had them last fall. I'm sure every situation is different, but I found peanut butter outperformed the gel bait in side by side testing.
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Jun 24, 2022 14:22
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Potentially covered in the video I didn't watch, but prime trap placement is with the business end of the trap against a wall. Given the choice, mice like to run up against something instead of out in the open. We've caught more than one in our basement where they weren't even going for the bait, just passing through and walked over the trap.
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Jun 24, 2022 17:35
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Today I found this wasp nest right next to my front door: Is this something I could get rid of with the kind of wasp spray they sell at the hardware store or should I call an exterminator? I'm in New Jersey if that matters.
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Jun 24, 2022 20:32
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RoastBeef posted:Today I found this wasp nest right next to my front door: Short answer: wasp spray is made for that, but any time you go after a nest you need to make peace with the fact you might get stung. How high up is it? Looks like bald faced hornets, which wasp spray is exceedingly good at making dead fast, but if you're talking ladder needed it still may be questionable. Also keep in mind whatever the max range is quoted on the spray doesn't mean vertically (e.g., Raid will get not spray 15 feet straight in the air). Anecdotally, we had a wasp nest at the junction between our garage and house roofs. From the ladder with my arm at full reach, the stream of the spray fell about 1 foot short of the actual nest. When I got on the roof to finish the job, they were hosed up enough from being near the fumes that they were unable to fly and dying. If it is within spray reach, if possible wait until after dark to spray it. During the day there are hornets coming and going foraging, so you'll get the most bang for your buck hitting them at night. Quick e: also long sleeves and gloves never hurt. If you don't already have the spray, they probably sell mosquito head nets at wherever you buy it, if you want to feel extra secure. Blowjob Overtime fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Jun 24, 2022 21:04
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Short answer: wasp spray is made for that, but any time you go after a nest you need to make peace with the fact you might get stung. About eight feet off the ground - I could touch it from the porch if I was feeling particularly suicidal. Mosquito head net is a good call, thanks for the tip.
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Jun 24, 2022 21:12
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RoastBeef posted:About eight feet off the ground - I could touch it from the porch if I was feeling particularly suicidal. Mosquito head net is a good call, thanks for the tip. There's a 95% chance they'll all be dead the instant the spray hits the hive, but some cheap insurance never hurts. Also probably unnecessary to say, but it's a better sooner than later thing to take care of. Bald-faced hornets are more aggressive than other stinging insects at punishing you for the crime of being near their home.
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Jun 24, 2022 21:35
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RoastBeef posted:About eight feet off the ground - I could touch it from the porch if I was feeling particularly suicidal. Mosquito head net is a good call, thanks for the tip. I'd feel comfortable blasting that and going inside very fast. I'd consider the foaming spray to blast at the hole there, although most wasp spray is a big stream that goes far and should work for that as well since it's not a huge nest. Try it out (outside) before you go after the wasps so you know how it shoots. I'd just either start from pretty far back and spray and move away or give it a quick blast and go inside. Either way you don't want to let them see you and that you're doing something, minimize the time you're there. Once you spray them they'll likely be too busy dying to attack you although it can happen. In less than an hour they'll all be dead, and the ones who are out and return to the nest will likely die as well. You won't need to use a huge amount of spray for that little nest, but you'll want to leave it alone for a while afterwards, maybe overnight. Then, after you're certain there's no more activity, you can get up on a ladder and get it into a trash bag. There's usually a single point where it's adhered onto the building and sometimes a scraper can help get it off.
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Jun 24, 2022 21:44
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Short answer: wasp spray is made for that, but any time you go after a nest you need to make peace with the fact you might get stung. I bought two cheap pvc pipes and a coupler, then taped a plastic drywall scraper to the end. Knocked down the nest 2 stories up, then sprayed it. It was a very bendy lance, but it worked and was cheap.
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Jun 24, 2022 22:53
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I don't know what's available at your hardware store, but I use Stryker 54 for things like that. It's generally available at the usual online places. Not only does it knock them down/incapacitate them quick but it's got some serious power/shooting distance so you can stay way the hell back.
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Jun 25, 2022 00:29
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