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A1 has a much easier to swap nozzle design and eddy current sensor which lets it do active flow rate compensation. How much that matters is up to you but most likely the next gen X1 and P1 will use this newer nozzle design.
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May 6, 2024 21:53
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Acid Reflux posted:Do you just want to make nice prints with mostly PLA and PETG? Get an A1. Sounds like this is the way to go. Should I pick up the hot ends kit and/or dual texture plate as part of this bundle, or is that just a thing for later if I ever decide I need more than stock stuff?
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May 6, 2024 21:58
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deimos posted:ASA is fine to have fans on if the chamber is around 40-50°C at a moderate airflow. As always... Needs to be tuned per filament. It probably depends on what is printed. E.g. with a 2x3 mm gurney the trailing edges are no problem, but sharp edges without one tend to develop cracks when the print cools.
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May 6, 2024 21:59
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Elysium posted:Sounds like this is the way to go. Should I pick up the hot ends kit and/or dual texture plate as part of this bundle, or is that just a thing for later if I ever decide I need more than stock stuff? It will come with a 2-sided textured plate. Never hurts to have an extra in case you somehow manage to destroy the first one right away, but that's probably pretty unlikely.  I have 14 aftermarket plates with various patterns/finishes and I love them all Having extra hot ends is a really good idea though. Just like any printer, these machines absolutely still can and will clog at the worst possible moment, so it's nice to have spares handy to do a quick swap if you don't want to deal with clearing one at that moment in time. Having said that... I bought the 0.2 / 0.4 / 0.6 kit and still haven't used anything but the 0.4. YMMV, etc.
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May 6, 2024 22:26
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I also bought the nozzle and plate pack. I was printing theatrical props that don't need to look nice close up, and the .6mm nozzle let me whip right through them. I like that the .4mm and .6mm nozzles in the kit are hardened, because I want to print glow in the dark fun stuff, and carbon fiber PLA. edit: and I have 2 aftermarket plates coming from aliexpress, they're dirt cheap.
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May 7, 2024 00:01
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w00tmonger posted:how do you find a1's vs p1s for density? I specifically earmarked a 9 printer rack for my basement, and the p1's being core-xy and enclosed definitely seems like the route to go for my needs at least. Yeah for filling a rack the p1 is the way to go, I can fit another 10 printers in my space if I need to befit I really need to worry about starting to optimize my layout
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May 7, 2024 00:58
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Well, that grow tent I thought was going to be just the right size for my CR-10 V3 is actually just a little too small; the bed hits the front and back of it at its max play (and I kinda suspect would melt the thin clear plastic in the viewing window at ABS temps).  Looking on Amazon, I think they might require me relocating the spool holder from the top which I can't be bothered with, so guess I'll be making one out of plywood or whatever.
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May 7, 2024 01:23
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:Are there any reliable methods for color matching an existing piece of plastic? This is RE: liquid resin. Paint.
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May 7, 2024 01:54
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Well, that grow tent I thought was going to be just the right size for my CR-10 V3 is actually just a little too small; the bed hits the front and back of it at its max play (and I kinda suspect would melt the thin clear plastic in the viewing window at ABS temps). Oh yeah relocating the spool holder to the side is likely required for most of the fabric enclosures I've seen.. It's pretty trivial to do though, assuming it fits your space with it on the side.
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May 7, 2024 14:18
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Hmm. They gave me a coupon for $20 off a Saturn 4 Ultra. But I'd have to find a home for this Saturn 3 Ultra. I don't need two resin units. Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 7, 2024 |
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May 7, 2024 14:46
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Synthbuttrange posted:Paint. Fair enough. Time to go down that rabbit hole I guess.
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May 7, 2024 18:34
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Is there a way to apply fuzzy skin to just a specific face of a model, or similarly to exclude a specific face? I have some very, very simple models, like rectangular-prism simple, that I'd like to have fuzzy skin on just a couple opposing faces and nowhere else. Be cool if I could just select the exact faces I want. e: prusaslicer
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May 8, 2024 02:20
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:Fair enough. Time to go down that rabbit hole I guess. its the simplest way but if you really want to go down coloring resins, it really depends on what color you're matching and what you have to work with and you could go nuts getting cyan, yellow, magenta and black dyes and match it drop by drop.
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May 8, 2024 02:31
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Bad Munki posted:Is there a way to apply fuzzy skin to just a specific face of a model, or similarly to exclude a specific face? Yes, you can apply fuzzy skin with a modifier (modifier being a 3d model, either imported or just a primitive added directly in the software) and apply fuzzy skin where the modifier intersects only. There isn't a select face though.
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May 8, 2024 05:16
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Hmm. I tried that but it was…I don’t know how to describe it. Adding extra external perimeters inside the model? Like I had the region set up as a cube and it just encompassed the face I want, but that led to an external perimeter inside the body of the model. I also tried it with the region extending all the way through my object to encompass opposite sides, which I want anyhow, but not the two ends, and that just led to the extra internal perimeters along those faces instead, with wiggly poo poo inside behind the smooth faces.
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May 8, 2024 05:35
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Bad Munki posted:Hmm. I tried that but it was…I don’t know how to describe it. Adding extra external perimeters inside the model? Take the existing model, clone it, cut off the part you don't want to have fuzzy skin on, save the modified object as stl, use that as your modifier. Alignment will be a PITA.
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May 8, 2024 05:41
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Hmm that's tricky. I've also occasionally run into edge cases here and there that require fiddling (usually with supports). I agree that slicing off a face and importing it -- maybe as a separate part rather than modifier? -- might be a good direction to try.
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May 8, 2024 06:59
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Ahh! Printing with a fresh Z adjusted nozzle is so nice!
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May 8, 2024 23:11
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Ugh. I updated the firmware on my Prusa Mini to 6.0 and now it refuses to connect to Prusa Link or whatever. Having it for my MK3.5 and Mini up until now has spoiled my workflow a little. Uploading huge files to send them to the printer where I don't have to keep a browser constantly running when sending batches of things is nice. The MK3.5 flashed 6.0 and restarted and reconnected to PrusaConnect/Link no issues.
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May 9, 2024 00:03
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Upgraded to a Bambu A1 and the experience so far had been nice. Until I tried using my Fremover PLA in it and now I'm getting constant "is the spool tangled?" prompts from the printer. It isn't, it purges and feeds clean enough but then when I hit resume print it just stops feeding, ruining the print. I've had two prints now where it starts doing ok and then this happens.
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May 9, 2024 17:59
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Springfield Fatts posted:Upgraded to a Bambu A1 and the experience so far had been nice. Until I tried using my Fremover PLA in it and now I'm getting constant "is the spool tangled?" prompts from the printer. It isn't, it purges and feeds clean enough but then when I hit resume print it just stops feeding, ruining the print. I've had two prints now where it starts doing ok and then this happens. How heavy is the spool? Is the hub of it a standard size? Wondering if that might be the cause. Edit: Assuming you’re using the AMS lite. 8-bit Miniboss fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 9, 2024 |
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May 9, 2024 18:41
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Normal 1kg with about 20% used, and no just the normal spool holder on top. Edit: did a bed level test print and just watched it, seems to be the design of the spool catching occasionally when rotating. Still doesn't explain the 'feeding ok then air printing issue' but at least I know some kind of spool holder adapter should fix it. Springfield Fatts fucked around with this message at 19:31 on May 9, 2024 |
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May 9, 2024 18:51
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I have now started making giant slugs. Just, like, 1 pound slugs only. One my kids didn't want to take his slug into the ice cream shop because he thought someone would steal it, and know what? Someone would want to steal that thing.
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May 10, 2024 04:09
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gvibes posted:I have now started making giant slugs. Just, like, 1 pound slugs only. One my kids didn't want to take his slug into the ice cream shop because he thought someone would steal it, and know what? Someone would want to steal that thing. Post pictures as that we may envy your family's slugs.
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May 10, 2024 04:44
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People want it so badly. You get to see the kids (and adults) with sensory issues because they just want to hold it forever and ever But do It in solid color only. Adding a stripe or similar drove people nuts with wanting to line them up properly
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May 10, 2024 14:28
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Coming in out of nowhere to state that after having built a Voron 2.4 a year or two ago, and after having left 3D printing in the frustration of "nothing works, all the guides are too generic, nobody gives actual responses to my queries on subreddits", I took a shot at a clearance Creality K1. Having been through all the Voron crap was enough of a trial by fire that it was doable to swap out the hotend with a Micro Swiss (I was too impatient to wait for Creality's replacement) and to swap out the extruder for a Creality warranty replacement. That plus some time futzing and tweaking with settings has basically given me an ABS printer that's been crazy reliable and usable. For having spent $340 on it all told (I coughed up for the camera, but I don't count the Micro Swiss hotend) this is a surprisingly reliable and functional 3D printer if you know what you're doing. I haven't had one bed scrape other than me going in too hard with the scraper. Now all I need is for someone to start producing flamingo or hot pink ABS other than Harajuku Pink and any kind of neon/electric blue ABS and it'll be perfection.
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May 10, 2024 20:01
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MJP posted:Now all I need is for someone to start producing flamingo or hot pink ABS other than Harajuku Pink and any kind of neon/electric blue ABS and it'll be perfection. Polymaker neon magenta ABS
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May 10, 2024 20:55
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It looks way redder in photos and I haven't found an IRL picture - as far as I can tell it isn't what I'm going for :/
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May 10, 2024 21:05
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I have the neon orange and it also looks red until it's printed then it's a vibrant traffic cone orange. I bought the magenta but I haven't cracked the spool yet, maybe I can print a benchy and post a photo
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May 10, 2024 21:15
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Polymaker pop pink ASA.
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May 11, 2024 00:30
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Roundboy posted:People want it so badly. You get to see the kids (and adults) with sensory issues because they just want to hold it forever and ever I was trying to get rid of my cheap silk filaments as they tend to bind in the AMS when filament switching and I printed 6 400g slugs over the course of a week. They are a tremendous hit with kids and adults both. My partner has been giving them out to her students who invariably see them and get excited. We’re down to just one slug left.
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May 11, 2024 18:13
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Okay now I have to see one of these slugs to see what people are going gaga over.
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May 11, 2024 18:16
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kid sinister posted:Okay now I have to see one of these slugs to see what people are going gaga over. I’m assuming this thing. It’s quite popular and has a permissive license so you can sell prints if you want.
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May 11, 2024 18:26
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Yes, but specifically this one : https://www.printables.com/model/84723-huge-curled-up-friendly-articulated-slug The larger version with brims around just the antenna in the front and curled let you get SO BIG The Shia halud is coming out next, i just saw that
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May 11, 2024 19:03
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Roundboy posted:Yes, but specifically this one : https://www.printables.com/model/84723-huge-curled-up-friendly-articulated-slug Almost half a of filament! God drat!
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May 12, 2024 00:59
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Hey it's yet another post about first layer issues! (Neptune 3 printer FYI) (sorry for the blurryish photo it's night right now) This is printing directly after a full bed auto level, so I'm wondering what it could be. The left side is going down perfectly, but the layer starts to get these 'bald' streaks as it approaches the middle of the bed, and they get worse the further to the right it goes. My first assumption is that the V-rollers under the bed are hosed again, since that's been a common theme on my printer... but I'm asking for a second opinion if it might be something else. Like could my bed be warped? And if so is it just a matter of replacing the PEI sheet, or would the thick metal plate underneath be bad too? In some ways I kinda hope it's not the V-rollers just cause they are a pain to replace... Edit: also while I'm here I'm noticing these little pinhole gaps where the infill meets the perimeter. I don't think it's an issue, but if it's a quick adjustment on some setting in prusaslicer I would be glad to hear about it. Edit 2: now that I'm awake in the morning and the print's done, yeah the V-rollers (luckily) just needed to be adjusted a bit. Edit 3: poo poo like this makes me want to install linear rails for the bed, but I have no clue how I would do it and it would also cost more than it's probably worth BadMedic fucked around with this message at 12:05 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 01:54
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I need help calibrating my printer. I'm doing the recommended guide for printing first layers and I can't get my prints to stick! I've calibrated my extruder and done the rough Z calibration for my printer with the sheet of paper like its documentation recommends, but prints just won't stick! What am I doing wrong?
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May 12, 2024 21:40
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kid sinister posted:I need help calibrating my printer. I'm doing the recommended guide for printing first layers and I can't get my prints to stick! I've calibrated my extruder and done the rough Z calibration for my printer with the sheet of paper like its documentation recommends, but prints just won't stick! What am I doing wrong? What kind of bed? General rule if it's removable is wash it with soap and water then dry it with a clean paper towel. If that doesn't make it stick then baby step your z during a first layer until it does. E: if it's not removable, wash it at least three times with plenty of IPA and fresh paper towels for each wash. deimos fucked around with this message at 21:58 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 21:55
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deimos posted:What kind of bed? General rule if it's removable is wash it with soap and water then dry it with a clean paper towel. It's a textured removable sheet. I just removed it and gave it a good clean. Prints still won't stick. I can't even print a Benchy. What does "baby step your Z" mean?
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May 12, 2024 23:04
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kid sinister posted:It's a textured removable sheet. I just removed it and gave it a good clean. Prints still won't stick. I can't even print a Benchy.
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May 12, 2024 23:05
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