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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

queeb posted:

shop update:

65,000 in revenue so far this year crossed today. considering I did 95k for all of last year, this'll be easily double that. deeeefinitely considering some kind of expansion now as shits getting busy and 10 fdm printers are just running constantly.

I am irrationally jealous that I haven't set up a similar operation to yours for my area and also considering whether it's too late or not.

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

kid sinister posted:

I figured it out! :toot:



I only had the filament at the default Cura setting which was only 190 C!!!



At least it's progress. I can continue calibrating now!

Adhesion looks better but that still looks terrible, no offense. The lines should be touching, but I can clearly see gaps even without zooming in on my phone. It definitely still looks like under-extrusion, which is why you're getting advice like the above check that your printer is configured for the correct diameter filament.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

hovering over public toilet-rear end printer

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

armorer posted:

Adhesion looks better but that still looks terrible, no offense. The lines should be touching, but I can clearly see gaps even without zooming in on my phone. It definitely still looks like under-extrusion, which is why you're getting advice like the above check that your printer is configured for the correct diameter filament.

I have a question. Should I go back to the first step and put my extrusion rotation distance back to where it was? Or is there another step in that guide that will improve extrusion that I just haven't gotten to yet? I'm currently on this step: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Edit: I haven't checked on the filament diameter yet. I'm still working up the courage to deal with my printer again today.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 14, 2024

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
What filament settings are you using on your slicer? Maybe your slicer has a low EM.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Ohvee posted:

That makes sense. That's my first impulse for everything I do, but for whatever reason didn't think to just Google it.

The Decepticon one turned out awesome, just need to order the LED strips for it.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

kid sinister posted:

I have a question. Should I go back to the first step and put my extrusion rotation distance back to where it was? Or is there another step in that guide that will improve extrusion that I just haven't gotten to yet? I'm currently on this step: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Edit: I haven't checked on the filament diameter yet. I'm still working up the courage to deal with my printer again today.

It doesn't hurt to double check it. If you do double check it, I would do so with the filament just going through the extruder and not the hotend if your printer allows for that. (ie: disconnect the bowden tube if there is one)

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



hurray cheap filament!



8/10 boxes there, the other 2 are coming from BC so i probably cleared out the local warehouse of grey lol

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

deimos posted:

What filament settings are you using on your slicer? Maybe your slicer has a low EM.

I believe it was just "generic PLA" in Cura since there isn't an entry for Inland, Microcenter's house brand. What's EM?

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Extrusion multiplier. Which I think is called something else in Cura. Flow?

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Is that a Woods chair? Because I got to hang out with a Canadian acquaintance that had a couple and those are by far the most comfortable camp chair in human history. You sink into that thing and never want to leave.

I've been wanting to get a pair but am a cheap bastard and refuse to buy more until my existing chairs wear out.

If it is, congrats, you Canadians really know how to make thrones.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



xzzy posted:

Is that a Woods chair? Because I got to hang out with a Canadian acquaintance that had a couple and those are by far the most comfortable camp chair in human history. You sink into that thing and never want to leave.

I've been wanting to get a pair but am a cheap bastard and refuse to buy more until my existing chairs wear out.

If it is, congrats, you Canadians really know how to make thrones.

lol it is yup

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Acid Reflux posted:

OK... this might be a bit of a long shot, because this was supposed to be fixed a very long time ago... but just for fun:

On the top menu, go to Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers.

When the window pops up, pick "Printers" on the left side. Make sure your printer is selected in the list (it should be the only one, I'm guessing) and then hit the "Machine Settings" button to the right.

On the new window that comes up, pick the "Extruder 1" tab and look at the value of "Compatible material diameter". If that value is anything other than 1.75, then I'm going to go make some noise in a Cura forum somewhere.

If it is already set to 1.75, then I'm sorry I led you on the wild goose chase, but we've still eliminated a potential problem.

Just got to this. There is no option for "Compatible material diameter" in my printer's settings.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

BadMedic posted:

Edit 3: poo poo like this makes me want to install linear rails for the bed, but I have no clue how I would do it and it would also cost more than it's probably worth

Don't. Linear rails have a shorter lifetime, and can't be repaired. They are also more vulnerable to "poo poo" intrusion. Get your v-wheels setup right, worst case is you need to tighten the pinch bolt so they don't loosen.

deimos posted:

Uhh, why "whut?" this is exactly how this works. Extrusion length calibration is setting the extruder to extrude (as close as possible) exactly the amount you're expecting it to, it's an extruder setting calibration. Extrusion multiplier is about the variations between filaments and it's done properly by printing tickets.

To clarify this. The extruder will mostly extrude the length it's told to extrude. Mostly. So this needs to be set, so your other data is useful. Each filament will be some variety of different diameter, different stiffness, different compressive strength, and all of those will add up to a specific filament extruding more, or less plastic through the nozzle. Extrusion Multiplier is how you compensate for "per filament" differences. If all your printers are setup with extruders that extrude the same distance, all the EM numbers will transfer between printers. EM needs to be set ~per filament~.

Otherwise, you'll have to have EM setup for each printer AND each filament. And that's just silly.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I did the tower test from the guide. It looks like it's almost woven:


It's so thin, I can see through it:


As you can clearly see, it's useless for test results. I pulled up examples of other people's print failures and I want to say it's under extruding? Is that right?

How do I fix this? With the Extrusion Multiplier? Will I have to do this for each .stl file or is there a default setting for that somewhere to fix every print?

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Oh god, the slicer really is set to 3mm filament isn't it

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

BMan posted:

Oh god, the slicer really is set to 3mm filament isn't it

I couldn't find that option in Cura 2 posts of mine ago.

edit: I found it. It was set to 1.75 mm.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:48 on May 14, 2024

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Cura absolutely has that setting. What it is called, and or where it is located may change between versions. Searching for "diameter" might get you somewhere, but however you find it, that would be the best setting for you to check on before trying anything else

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Why didn't this whole mess start with removing and reinstalling Cura?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Tiny Timbs posted:

Why didn't this whole mess start with removing and reinstalling Cura?

....that's a good question. Wait. Let me find the default .gcode files that come with the printer and we'll see if they come out right.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

kid sinister posted:

I did the tower test from the guide. It looks like it's almost woven:


It's so thin, I can see through it:


As you can clearly see, it's useless for test results. I pulled up examples of other people's print failures and I want to say it's under extruding? Is that right?

How do I fix this? With the Extrusion Multiplier? Will I have to do this for each .stl file or is there a default setting for that somewhere to fix every print?

Okay that is a super example of under-extrusion. You said that you installed a new nozzle? What is the diameter of the nozzle opening, and what do you have Cura set to think is the diameter of the nozzle opening? Maybe you're telling cura you're printing with a 0.4mm nozzle but you're actually using a 0.2?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

kid sinister posted:

edit: I found it. It was set to 1.75 mm.

Well, poo poo. What you're experiencing looks exactly like what happens when it defaults to 2.85mm. Sorry dude, was really hoping that was going to be it. :(

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
it's also what happens when you switch from cubic mm to linear. This is really common on the ender forums.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

armorer posted:

Okay that is a super example of under-extrusion. You said that you installed a new nozzle? What is the diameter of the nozzle opening, and what do you have Cura set to think is the diameter of the nozzle opening? Maybe you're telling cura you're printing with a 0.4mm nozzle but you're actually using a 0.2?

I double checked. The nozzle inserted is a 0.4. They don't even make 0.2s for my printer. It takes K1 nozzles.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Also did you say Cura 2? Pretty sure Cura 5.6.0 is the latest, may as well start with an up-to-date slicer if you're starting fresh.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

kid sinister posted:

I double checked. The nozzle inserted is a 0.4. They don't even make 0.2s for my printer. It takes K1 nozzles.

And Cura is set to 0.4?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

armorer posted:

And Cura is set to 0.4?

Yep. 0.4.

Ok I can't even print the files that come from my printer's manufacturer. Cura never touched those. It's not the slicer.

I just printed this:


I reset to factory settings. I'm at a loss as to what it could be. Did I get a dud hotend when I replaced it?

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
The intermittent extrusion is suggestive of a hardware issue. I would inspect all the parts along the filament path, maybe it's the hot end but it could be the extruder or something as simple as the spool not spinning freely.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Thoroughly inspect the extruder and make sure it's not cracked anywhere. I have seen a few cases where a cracked extruder leads to inconsistent tension on the feed and results in under-extrusion. (This was a big issue with the plastic tension arm on Ender 3s. Not sure about the k1)

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
I am assuming it is not the same stupid issue with the plastic extruder arm because it sounds like a new printer here in 2024, but that is exactly what that red benchy looks like a symptom of, huh

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
So just take the head/extruder apart and look for cracks?

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Pretty much. For example you can't see the thing we're referring to without taking the extruder apart:

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

His printer has a planetary direct drive, very different setup.
e: I think I misinterpreted your post as a direct comparison between the types, sorry Javid!

kid, might be worth looking up how to adjust the filament tension on your specific extruder. I know how to do it on an SV06, but I think yours is slightly different. You may have to take the cover off the hot end assembly to get to it.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 22:48 on May 14, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Acid Reflux posted:

His printer has a planetary direct drive, very different setup.
e: I think I misinterpreted your post as a direct comparison between the types, sorry Javid!

kid, might be worth looking up how to adjust the filament tension on your specific extruder. I know how to do it on an SV06, but I think yours is slightly different. You may have to take the cover off the hot end assembly to get to it.

You mean this screw? It was loose. That arm is connected to a gear that puts pressure on the feeder motor...


There are no cracks anywhere, everything is metal aside from the mounts for the fans and the distance sensor.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

That's exactly the one. It's an exposed thumbscrew on the 06's and easy to get to, apparently slightly harder to access on yours.

It's got to be tighter than "loose", but there's no real world value to go by. On my 06, I generally run it in until I start to feel some resistance and then back it off a turn or two. It doesn't need to be cranked down like stupid hard, but also needs to be providing adequate tension on the gears to grab the filament.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
I think I finally understand the root cause of why my bed levelling keeps loving up every few months, and the answer is that my Neptune 3 uses a Strain Gauge for it's bed levelling.
On first glance it seems like a pretty simple and clever way to level your bed. It detects if there's force on the nozzle from touching something, so there's no worries of the probe being offset from the nozzle since the probe is the nozzle, and strain gauges are pretty cheap.

The problem is that a strain gauge requires non-trivial force, so the nozzle must actually *push* into the bed.
If the rollers on your bed are loose, then the bed will shift when pressed, and the z-height will read lower than the *actual* amount.
So the rollers need to be tighter, which means they wear from friction faster.
And the more they wear, the more rubber is in contact, which makes them wear faster.
And I use the printer sporadically as projects need it, so when still for a long period the rollers develop flat spots, which makes them wear faster.

So eventually I get a permanently 'wobbly' bed and I'm stuck with either terrible first layers, or replacing all 4 rollers every few months which is kinda a pain in the rear end.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Acid Reflux posted:

That's exactly the one. It's an exposed thumbscrew on the 06's and easy to get to, apparently slightly harder to access on yours.

It's got to be tighter than "loose", but there's no real world value to go by. On my 06, I generally run it in until I start to feel some resistance and then back it off a turn or two. It doesn't need to be cranked down like stupid hard, but also needs to be providing adequate tension on the gears to grab the filament.

Son of a bitch! That loving screw fixed it!


Thanks so much!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

kid sinister posted:

Son of a bitch! That loving screw fixed it!


Thanks so much!

God I'm glad that's resolved. We (through you) tried everything.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Watching this thread basically live troubleshoot this issue warms my heart.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

armorer posted:

God I'm glad that's resolved. We (through you) tried everything.

When in doubt, use the poo poo that came with your printer so you can eliminate the slicer.

BlackIronHeart posted:

Watching this thread basically live troubleshoot this issue warms my heart.

No kidding. Thanks everybody for your help!

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:31 on May 15, 2024

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