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StormDrain posted:Mmmm maybe. It's seriously so low on my priorities that it probably won't ever hapoen. I can just walk across my kitchen. StormDrain posted:No no no. You don't understand. This is a challenging job that Abso-lutely will take two trips to the store and I don't want to do. It will leave me in the in ruins. I do not have the time or desire to do this. Anything you tell me that is easy will not be. Do not try to convince me otherwise. Oh wow guess who got one comment on how the kitchen should have a switch on each side and ended up doing this fuckin job. New lutron caseta dimmer with a pico remote on the far side. Yes it did take two trips to the store. Yes it works and is unfinished because tearing out the existing box for a new larger one left the opening in shambles so I had to mud it in. I also discovered (remembered) the box had two circuits in it and all the neutrals were tied together. Which I am choosing to beleive was why one of the circuits tripped last week. The circuits are isolated now.
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May 11, 2024 03:31
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So I had 3 outlets in my preexisting half finished garage and working on finishing I discovered the one finished outlet was on its own 20 amp circuit (perfect for adding the additional outlets I had planned), but the other two outlets on the unfinished side were connected to another 20 amp circuit connected to a bunch of random outlets across the house. Currently those two outlets power the garage door opener and slow charge our electric car (I'm in no rush to add a proper car charger outlet since in 4 years of ownership charging overnight has always been fine). They never trip or have issues. Ideally the garage door opener and the car charging would get their own lines, but the electrical panel is on the opposite corner of the house and getting lines back and forth is a big deal I don't think I'll tackle anytime soon (with ducting in the way I think I'd either have to run conduit around the outside the house or run it up 2 floors to the attic from the panel and then back down 2 floors to the garage which both sound awful or expensive). Before I close up the walls/ceiling on the unfinished side I could easily swap the outlets to be on the same circuit as the finished outlet so everything is neater. OTOH, nothing currently has any problems and with the rest of the garage on a different circuit I'm less liable to trip anything running power tools. Thoughts?
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May 12, 2024 09:46
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FuzzySlippers posted:So I had 3 outlets in my preexisting half finished garage and working on finishing I discovered the one finished outlet was on its own 20 amp circuit (perfect for adding the additional outlets I had planned), but the other two outlets on the unfinished side were connected to another 20 amp circuit connected to a bunch of random outlets across the house. Currently those two outlets power the garage door opener and slow charge our electric car (I'm in no rush to add a proper car charger outlet since in 4 years of ownership charging overnight has always been fine). They never trip or have issues. Label the outlets, and maybe add another outlet to the circuit with only one outlet? You can never have too many outlets!
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May 12, 2024 16:39
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FuzzySlippers posted:So I had 3 outlets in my preexisting half finished garage and working on finishing I discovered the one finished outlet was on its own 20 amp circuit (perfect for adding the additional outlets I had planned), but the other two outlets on the unfinished side were connected to another 20 amp circuit connected to a bunch of random outlets across the house. Currently those two outlets power the garage door opener and slow charge our electric car (I'm in no rush to add a proper car charger outlet since in 4 years of ownership charging overnight has always been fine). They never trip or have issues. I think I'd prefer to have everything on the dedicated 20 amp garage circuit. The EV charger specifically I would like to be, because while it's not tripping anything now, in the future you might change what loads are on the inside of the house and have a problem. If everything in the garage is on the garage circuit, it makes it easier to manage and be aware of the load on the circuit. Plus I bet you're unlikely to be charging the car and also be using heavy power tools, and if you are, it would be easy to unplug the car to do your work. For the electricians out there, I have a question regarding 3R ratings and conduit connectors. I read something about water tight conduit hubs for 3R panels for when you're installing conduit above the lowest point of the panel. However, when googling to see water tight conduit hubs, I can only find ones for RMC and Liquit-Tight conduit. Is there an equivalent for rigid PVC conduit? SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 16:41
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SpartanIvy posted:For the electricians out there, I have a question regarding 3R ratings and conduit connectors. I read something about water tight conduit hubs for 3R panels for when you're installing conduit above the lowest point of the panel. However, when googling to see water tight conduit hubs, I can only find ones for RMC and Liquit-Tight conduit. Is there an equivalent for rigid PVC conduit? I don't think there is. Everyone uses Myers hubs (or equivalent) even though it's not rated for PVC.
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May 12, 2024 18:37
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Blackbeer posted:I don't think there is. Everyone uses Myers hubs (or equivalent) even though it's not rated for PVC. Yeah I tried doing this theoretically correctly on my new service feed by getting an RMC hub and then an RMC to PVC terminal adapter (metal conduit on one end threaded to screw into the hub, with PVC female opening on the other end). Then my trenching / service feed conduit contractor removed all of it (including the hub) and put in a regular PVC adapter, threaded on one end and female on the other but all PVC and with a lock nut securing the adapter inside the box, and neither PG&E nor the city inspector said dick about it. That said, I have no confidence that A) PG&E crew would give a poo poo or bother to do anything that wouldn't allow them to complete the job as soon as possible, and I know this because when I found the missing washers for the bolts that hold the service connectors onto the lugs they said they'd just have put them in without the washers (on a 320 amp connection), and B) my inspector clearly was trusting that everything was correct because the parts he did see were, in his words, so much better than the usual standard of work he's seen from electricians  . I'm not an electrician, to be clear.However this was also an underground feed coming into the bottom of the box so water intrusion is much less of a concern. I also can't tell you if the RMC hub to RMC/PVC TA is actually correct because I honestly don't remember how I got to that point, but since I was trying to do everything by code I think it might be the "right" way? I'd wait for one of the actual electricians to confirm. If you uh, want a 3" RMC to PVC term adapter, slightly rusted, and hub, I'm happy to send it for a few bucks and shipping.
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May 12, 2024 20:44
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Coming in from the bottom of the box, a regular PVC male with locknut and bushing is just fine.
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May 12, 2024 21:10
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Well poo poo
FuzzySlippers fucked around with this message at 01:17 on May 14, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 22:16
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Turns out my plans have to change because that outlet in the garage on a 20 amp circuit is wired with 14/2 wire. Not sure if I should undertake a big wiring project to get proper wiring to the garage or just change the breaker.
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May 14, 2024 01:20
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FuzzySlippers posted:Turns out my plans have to change because that outlet in the garage on a 20 amp circuit is wired with 14/2 wire. Not sure if I should undertake a big wiring project to get proper wiring to the garage or just change the breaker. Definitely change the breaker for now to get it safe. Then consider rewiring.
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May 14, 2024 04:36
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I had a handyman come over and straighten out a lighting sconce that was tilting. Now, whenever I plug something into an outlet in that room that's electrically heftier than a lamp, the breaker in the basement trips and says ARC FAULT. This is the case even if the sconce is not turned on. What could cause this? Is it pure coincidence?
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May 14, 2024 19:45
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I had a handyman come over and straighten out a lighting sconce that was tilting. Now, whenever I plug something into an outlet in that room that's electrically heftier than a lamp, the breaker in the basement trips and says ARC FAULT. This is the case even if the sconce is not turned on. What could cause this? Is it pure coincidence? Nope. Arc faults are triggered by wiring problems. It's time to call that handyman back and tell him he's not done yet.
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May 14, 2024 19:58
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I have a stupid question. I'm looking into serious solar/batt, at the level of "I would like to have my home permanently disconnected from the grid" (whether this will legally be possible is another matter since PG&E is an evil monopoly reinforced by the state codes, so it'll probably end up being a manual transfer switch after the meter). For the following discussion, please ignore costs - I know this will be shockingly expensive but telling me it won't pay back soon doesn't apply because you're almost certainly thinking of what utility power costs you, perhaps $0.10-$0.20 per kWH, which is not the $0.43-$0.54/kWH I'm currently paying that's scheduled to go up again soon. Also, bottom line, gently caress PG&E, I will spend extra money out of sheer spite just to never give them another dime. For this I'm estimating needing somewhere around 100 kWH storage and 60 kW inverter output with a 20-30 kW array, so not LG Resu or other ~10 kW batteries. For some context, I want to be able to run a 40A oven, 50A induction cooktop, 20-30A heat pump water heater, and two 50A car chargers all at once - not that I would be be at full load regularly, but if I do this I'm not interested in living like I'm in an off grid cabin in the woods or in an RV trying to squeeze every watt. HVAC I'd change to minisplits, so that might not be a huge load (figure two 15A 240 circuits). Since this would be fully off grid through a manual transfer switch I shouldn't need an inverter compatible with UL 1741, as I understand it, though the new NEC requirements about shutdown signals would presumably apply and I'm fully on board with that. However, it appears that most of the higher end inverters are 3-phase output, presumably because there's not a lot of demand residentially for this level of output and they're aimed at small commercial environments. My question is, what would be the best / most efficient way to hook this into resi split-phase panels? I'm presuming that wiring a few subpanels between phases (i.e. panel 1 is between legs 1 and 2, panel 2 is between legs 2 and 3) isn't necessarily great because the power is only 120 degrees out of phase not 180 and it'll also be 208V and not 240, which from what I've seen depending on equipment may be fine or things may not work. The other option seems like a giant 3-phase to split phase transformer, which sounds very inefficient. Is one of these two options really what's commonly done, or is there something else I'm not thinking of that isn't "change all your equipment to 3phase" or "just get 10 regular residential solar batteries and a bunch of 5kW inverters in parallel"?
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May 14, 2024 22:09
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The algorithm pushed me this article about an Ecoflow device that feeds solar power into your home wiring via a standard outlet. How is something like this legal in Europe? I assume it will never come to the US. https://www.theverge.com/24150901/ecoflow-powerstream-review-diy-balcony-solar-microinverter
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May 26, 2024 18:59
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This is less of a wiring question and more of a forums question I figure that folks in this thread could answer: I'm a brand-spanking new electrician apprentice working my first job in construction/trades. Is there a thread somewhere on the SA forums where professional electricians talk sparky poo poo, or one for construction work in general? Or would this be the closest? I'd love to have a place to ask questions that isn't full of unhelpful shitheads. I didn't see anything in BFC.
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May 26, 2024 19:12
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There's at least one electrician in the thread, but most of us are homeowners doing amateur poo poo.
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May 26, 2024 19:17
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Lemniscate Blue posted:This is less of a wiring question and more of a forums question I figure that folks in this thread could answer: There are a fistful of professional electricians and those in adjacent industries here; feel free to share stories. If it looks like there's too much noise for everyone else, let's consider starting another thread.
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May 26, 2024 22:29
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SpartanIvy posted:The algorithm pushed me this article about an Ecoflow device that feeds solar power into your home wiring via a standard outlet. How is something like this legal in Europe? I assume it will never come to the US. It wouldn't work in the US because we use split-phase systems, so there's no guarantee that the outlet you plug this thing into is capable of directly feeding power to the appliance consuming power without back-feeding the transformer. They could engineer up something that would work when plugged into a dryer outlet, but that's quite different than the "plug it in anywhere and it works" device in the article.
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May 27, 2024 12:33
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Shifty Pony posted:It wouldn't work in the US because we use split-phase systems, so there's no guarantee that the outlet you plug this thing into is capable of directly feeding power to the appliance consuming power without back-feeding the transformer. given what i know about solar interconnection, i would think the main issue is the possibility of any backfeed. in europe or anywhere else the only way this works safely and does not backfeed out of the house/apartment is if it's properly set up to read the current being drawn or if there's power loss. not the hardest things to do, but it's putting a lot of trust into proper design and installation. also yes, definitely would not work for split phase or three phase-derived units. Lemniscate Blue posted:This is less of a wiring question and more of a forums question I figure that folks in this thread could answer: not sure there is such a thread but yes there's a couple of us here. quick fundamental concepts of employment that are especially fundamental in electrical: keep yourself and others safe; none of this is worth it otherwise, learn to recognize competence and incentive structures; you're trying to pick up skills and good habits and not fall into or be strung along by bad ones, and while you will have to stand your ground (particularly on safety) you are going to have to be flexible or you'll end up pigeonholing yourself in a field that is incredibly broad
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May 27, 2024 16:21
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SyNack Sassimov posted:Also, bottom line, gently caress PG&E, I will spend extra money out of sheer spite just to never give them another dime. Hello friend, but SCE not PG&E. So as much as I would like to encourage you to gently caress tha po-lice here, in some way forcing them to be a bit of battery makes their lives more difficult.  That being said, unless you actually terminate service with them and they turn off your meter, you have to play by all their interconnection rules. This will include a maximum grid-tied system size. Residential stuff also isn't made to be run quite so 24/7 either as I recall. Your city might also limit the sheer amount of onsite storage. With that out of the way - Enphase has a system you can build out exactly as you want for enough money. Just need to find an installer as crazy as you are here. My installer was working on a 16x5P system for a mansion. Dual controllers, 400A service, etc. However, if you're willing to make some concessions on your $250k+ solar system you can likely get most of the way there and merely be supremely annoying to PG&E. For reference, and we will see how this plays out when I finally move in on Friday, we put 32x405W panels and 4x5kwh batteries on the wall. I expect (hope, pray) to have minuscule power bills. I believe there are ways to make your car charger only charge when you would otherwise export, for example. Do you even have the roof space for that many panels? My roof is pretty ideally shaped and oriented and I would struggle to fit sufficient panels up there to reach 30kw of generation. The biggest issue you're going to have not being grid-tied though? When your equipment fails you will likely be down for days if not a week or two waiting on parts and labor to come and fix it. Especially if you buy this all at once. A whole lot of your home will be running via the inverter, and when the brains in that thing fails you're just dark until the parts can be swapped. If you're grid-tied you can manually override it to come back online. There is an Enphase installer either in this thread or in the Home Zone thread. They might be able to help you out on this.
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May 27, 2024 22:49
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H110Hawk posted:Hello friend, but SCE not PG&E. So as much as I would like to encourage you to gently caress tha po-lice here, in some way forcing them to be a bit of battery makes their lives more difficult. to my knowledge, you cannot install an enphase system without grid-tie. for that matter, same goes for generac, solaredge and a couple others i looked through...sunpower sunvault? i don't know if something about the IEEE utility compliance specs make it not work for off-grid or if it's a simple matter of this being an extremely narrow use case that invites far more engineering headaches than it invites sales. while the tech hurdle might be able to be surmounted, you're always going to invite the possibility of equipment failure on either a hardware end or a software end, ie, even though the grid check has been disabled or bypassed, some function somewhere is looking for it and the equipment goes into an "error" state that a user or field tech cannot do much about. from experience, if the issue is not a simple 'is it 240 power coming in without a ton of noise', you are just waiting on enphase support to clear something or declare it dead. you could get a robust system as described above and use practically nothing from the grid but if you want to use literally nothing, well, i'm not an economist, lawyer, consumer advocate, etc but that seems like an incredibly steep hill to live on
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May 27, 2024 23:00
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Have some electrical gore pics from MikeyTsi's threadkastein posted:"the GFCI outlet on the back porch doesn't work, and the kitchen outlets are dead because of it"
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May 28, 2024 01:01
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:to my knowledge, you cannot install an enphase system without grid-tie. for that matter, same goes for generac, solaredge and a couple others i looked through...sunpower sunvault? Yeah I may not have been entirely clear in my longpost - my aim is to put in an MTS and physically interlock the solar/batts from interacting with the grid. And this also means I'm not looking at any companies or inverters that are designed to be grid tied or even worse will not provide power without grid reference (when I found out that was a thing I was shocked. SHOCKED! Well, not that shocked), so Enphase can go gently caress themselves as well, the microinverters may be highly efficient and not take up extra space and be less dangerous (since there isn't high voltage DC running down the side of the house), but they're 100% in bed with the utility companies and I'm not interested. At this point my best option seems to be Sol-Ark / Midnite Solar all-in-ones or SMA Sunny Island+Boy combination. Will Prowse's DIY solar forum has been very helpful with learning and seeing what others are doing. Many of these can be paralleled, which reduces the issue of one particular inverter dying, but yes, I'm well aware that if I go down this path and something goes wrong, it is absolutely, without question, 100% my problem. The irony however is that from what everyone's told me so far, it is not in fact that easy, or even possible, to actually disconnect from the grid. So even with a system like this, I still may be paying PG&E some bare minimum for the meter, and I suspect that once they get their friends in the CPUC to finally pass that $8 per kw of installed solar base charge (let's be frank, by the time they do it it'll be $10 or $15 per kw), they'd come after me even though my system wouldn't be grid-tied. But if I am still tied to the grid, then at the very least I'd have the option to go flip the MTS back in an emergency. I know fermun is a solar / electrical guy and maybe he's the one you're thinking of, but it seems like this isn't necessarily the thread for this anyway as it's way beyond what most people are interested in doing and isn't that much about wiring, so I'm gonna stop posting about it until/unless it happens.
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May 28, 2024 02:04
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SyNack Sassimov posted:And this also means I'm not looking at any companies or inverters that are designed to be grid tied or even worse will not provide power without grid reference (when I found out that was a thing I was shocked. SHOCKED! Well, not that shocked), so Enphase can go gently caress themselves as well, the microinverters may be highly efficient and not take up extra space and be less dangerous (since there isn't high voltage DC running down the side of the house), but they're 100% in bed with the utility companies and I'm not interested. So this is quite a hot take. My enphase system works just fine with the main breaker to the grid open. I effectively have your setup but it's just a 200A breaker. I don't know how long it is meant to run like this but the whole point of it is to weather multi-day grid outages. I can't get it on mobile but my post history here will show my single line drawing. What's your budget? Are you willing to do it in phases? What's your plan to handle equipment failure? This: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.MBEB200BTF.html The output on the 200a main goes straight to the controller. If you have to have utility service this is a pretty good option for your use case, though you might need a 300a or 400a version based on your all electric house + 2x cars. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 06:15 on May 28, 2024 |
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May 28, 2024 06:07
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Theoretical question so I can understand stuff better: My shop has three phase, all the three phase runs out of one panel, then there are two panels of single phase. The three phase wasn’t hooked up when I moved in-I had electricians add it and it didn’t seem like a big deal. My understanding is that the phases of the two hots on single phase 240 are 90 or 180 degrees out of phase with each other, but the phases of three phase 240 are 120 degrees out of phase with each other. From the same 5 big wires coming thru the wall, (3 phases of hot, one neutral, one ground) I’m getting two different phase structures. So how does that work? Does something shift the ‘angle’ of the phases in the three phase panel? How do you get two phases 180 degrees out of phase to become 120 degrees out of phase so you can add a third phase? Is my understanding of phases completely wrong? The thing that sort of prompted this was me wanting to a single phase 240 outlet near where I already had a three phase 240 outlet and wondering if in theory (I was not going to try in practice, obviously) one could run a single phase 240 machine off two of the hots in a three phase circuit and then trying to figure out how the phases and degrees and stuff all work. Thinking back on it now, my old boss ran his whole shop off a homemade rotary phase converted that used a three phase motor which ran on single phase 240 (with an auxiliary single phase motor to start it) and then fed the third phase back into the panel, which again, how does two phases opposite each other turn into three phases 120 degrees from each other? Is it just how those phases are connected in the motor windings? Even tho the phases are 180 degrees out of phase the motor windings are 120 degrees apart so it still sort of works? I’m sure this is like electrical engineering 101 day 3 but I’m a big dumb dusty carpenter
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May 28, 2024 17:21
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Unless you have a transformer converting your three phase to single phase, you are just pulling one leg off of three phase for your single phase needs. So there is no split-phase 240 to 120 phase shift in your shop like you see in your house. In your shop, you have 240VAC, or in your case, likely 208VAC between any two phases of your three phase, called line-to-line voltage. The voltage between any phase and the neutral or ground would be 120VAC, called line-to-neutral. The L-N to L-L conversion isn't double like in a split phase system, it's actually the square root of 3. There's not really a phase shift when pulling your line to neutral, each line to neutral is out of phase by 120 degrees. In the case of your outlet you want to add, theoretically pulling off the two hots would give you a single phase 208VAC outlet. It seems you're confusing two different systems, a split phase residential system with a three phase system (where you happen to be pulling some single phase). In which your split phase residential is using one phase of a three phase transformer somewhere upstream. For your rotary phase question, it helps to know that the difference between an electrical motor and a generator is nil. If you spin a motor by hand you are creating electricity. So for the converter you need to get your three phase motor started which is the hardest part, once it's spinning it's only using 2 phases of power to keep it going, but because it's moving it's sort of acting like a generator for that third phase. Does that help at all? Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 18:13 on May 28, 2024 |
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May 28, 2024 17:59
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quote is not edit
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May 28, 2024 18:08
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H110Hawk posted:So this is quite a hot take. My enphase system works just fine with the main breaker to the grid open. I effectively have your setup but it's just a 200A breaker. I don't know how long it is meant to run like this but the whole point of it is to weather multi-day grid outages. I can't get it on mobile but my post history here will show my single line drawing. Hmmmmm, OK, stepping back from the saltiness of my posts (entirely directed towards PG&E, to be clear), it turns out.....I'm WRONG, on the Internet. Or more specifically, my information is out of date because since I last looked at Enphase they've updated their microinverters and they do claim to now support off-grid use and form a microgrid. (The IQ8 line, to be specific - as I recall I had checked out the IQ7 line and found that if it stopped getting grid reference voltage for 5 minutes it would shut down, and in fact this comparison article notes that's specifically one of the differences). So thanks buddy, I honestly appreciate you fact-checking me because I was operating on old and incorrect information. If their stuff does work for my purposes then that would be great, considering it's safer to use, takes up less space, reduces single points of failure, and so on. I'm still not thrilled that I'd (presumably?) have to use their batteries, but I do appreciate that the system is designed to function as a unified piece so I'll look further into it.
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May 28, 2024 18:22
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My understanding is that the phases of the two hots on single phase 240 are 90 or 180 degrees out of phase with each other, but the phases of three phase 240 are 120 degrees out of phase with each other. From the same 5 big wires coming thru the wall, (3 phases of hot, one neutral, one ground) I’m getting two different phase structures. So how does that work? Does something shift the ‘angle’ of the phases in the three phase panel? How do you get two phases 180 degrees out of phase to become 120 degrees out of phase so you can add a third phase? The way to get 240V with two hots 180° out of phase with each other from three phase supply is to connect one phase and neutral to the input side of an appropriately chosen transformer with a center-tap on the output. The center tap of the transformer output will be your neutral, and the two ends of the coil will be your two hots 180° out of phase. This is exactly how utilities do it. if you ever have a chance to go for a walk in a grid layout residential neighborhood with a three phase line running down the middle of it, you will notice that the various smaller distribution lines are each connected to a single phase of the three phase line, such that all of the transformers on that smaller distribution line only use that phase to make the 240V split phase service to the houses.
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May 28, 2024 18:22
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What voltage is your three phase?
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May 28, 2024 18:55
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To add to what's been said, my favorite distribution system is center tap grounded 240v Delta 3 phase, aka wild leg or high leg delta, because you get 240 between any of the 3 phases to run 240 single phase loads, 240 3 phase, and 120 between the grounded neutral center tap on one winding and each of the 2 phases that winding connects to, as well as 208 from neutral to the third phase, all out of one 3 phase transformer and 5 wires. 208/120Y is alright too I guess, it's probably what you have, you'll see 208 from any hot to any other hot and 120 from any hot to neutral. There is also the archaic "open delta" distribution system that is basically just 2 transformers providing "3 phase" without the cost of a third transformer, it works as long as you have a fairly light 3 phase load so it was often used in light/small industrial parks decades ago as I understand it. It's kind of fallen out of favor these days, they usually just build a real 3 phase line. But if you see 2 (instead of 3) transformers on a pole at the same level that are fed by 3 phase and appear to feed a single service drop with 3 insulated wires, especially if one is a smaller transformer than the other, you are probably looking at open delta. Understanding open delta 3 phase is the first step to understanding how most rotary 3 phase converters work. They're a special motor-generator unit that consists of a 240V motor winding and a 240V generator winding mounted 120 degrees out of phase with each other on the same rotor. You feed them 240V and they create a second phase using the generator winding 120 degrees out, one end of this is connected to one of the existing 240V hots which gives you a total of 3 hot wires and 2x 240V supplies 120 degrees out of phase - aka open delta 3 phase. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 28, 2024 |
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May 28, 2024 22:17
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SpeedFreek posted:What voltage is your three phase? kastein posted:To add to what's been said, my favorite distribution system is center tap grounded 240v Delta 3 phase, aka wild leg or high leg delta, because you get 240 between any of the 3 phases to run 240 single phase loads, 240 3 phase, and 120 between the grounded neutral center tap on one winding and each of the 2 phases that winding connects to, as well as 208 from neutral to the third phase, all out of one 3 phase transformer and 5 wires. 208/120Y is alright too I guess, it's probably what you have, you'll see 208 from any hot to any other hot and 120 from any hot to neutral. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Well mystery solved I guess? Took new readings this AM and get what I should get. L-L is all ~243v, L1-G=122v, L2-G=211v, L3-G=122v. I measured on another machine and got the same. I guess I just misread something yesterday. Or maybe the power company boosts the voltage in the afternoon when there is high demand
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May 29, 2024 01:07
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? I’m gonna check again this PM. Thanks for all the help I learned what to call my wiring now!
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Yup, that's exactly what you have. I'm jealous now, I can't get anything more than single phase at my location.
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May 29, 2024 01:39
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Oh very interesting, I'm so used to seeing Y distributions in my field that I never would have thought Kaiser had a delta configuration. Neat stuff.
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May 29, 2024 01:48
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kastein posted:Yup, that's exactly what you have. I'm jealous now, I can't get anything more than single phase at my location. The phase perfect phase converters also give you high leg delta 240v.
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May 29, 2024 01:56
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Not sure if this is the right thread for it, but I'm crossposting from the home zone: I have a Samsung wf330ANB/XAA front loading washer. It's 9 or 10 years old. Something malfunctioned and the frame is now electrically charged if it's plugged in, even when not operating. I unplugged it and opened it up. A visual inspection doesn't show any worn components or frayed wires. Is there a website with troubleshooting steps for this scenario? I know I may end up buying a new washer but I've always repaired or replaced components on this one so far and it seems stupid to throw it out if it's something that can be swapped out. But then I can't think of what tests to run with the multimeter if I don't know what the parts connections are supposed to do when functioning properly.
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May 29, 2024 02:30
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Oh very interesting, I'm so used to seeing Y distributions in my field that I never would have thought Kaiser had a delta configuration. Neat stuff. It's usually an East Coast or rust belt city thing. I always had co-workers wire it up wrong and blow poo poo up because getting out a multimeter takes effort. 120/208 is a lot more idiot proof.
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May 29, 2024 02:42
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If you got a short to ground, that means that there's continuity between hot and ground. Try poking and shaking things around to see if you can break that continuity. If you're unlucky, the short will be inside the motor. But it could be just a frayed wire at its simplest.
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May 29, 2024 02:44
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It was due to the zero sequence current and the fact that in delta-wye transformers it's not carried across the windings.. its been a long time since I've delved into that and can't quite remember why that was beneficial in our applications, but it was more than an idiot proof thing. Probably not too important at 120/208 though. 
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May 29, 2024 03:18
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Vim Fuego posted:Not sure if this is the right thread for it, but I'm crossposting from the home zone: Try to identify the power supply module for the control electronics, then look for any varistors on it and check the resistance across them. There might be a surge protection component that’s failed short to ground. Additionaly, what you describe should be tripping the breaker, so you also want to get someone to check out that outlet. Is it supposed to be grounded? Is it actually grounded? shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 06:01 on May 29, 2024 |
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May 29, 2024 05:58
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