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Copper Vein
Mar 14, 2007

...and we liked it that way.

Twobirds posted:

I'm curious, is the color because it's old carbon steel?

No idea. Maybe it's my led lights coloring the photo. It has hung on the wall in my dad's den my whole life; I've always thought of it as "metal colored."

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guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Copper Vein posted:

I haven't been knife sharpening for very long, but in that time I have purchased and discarded three Worksharp systems and ended up getting the big TS Prof. All the worksharp stuff is built to offer the most complete kit for the absolute least $$$ but the result always felt imprecise and flimsy to me with too much plastic, even the new Pro Precision Adjust.

The clamp on the Pro Precision Adjust can grip onto knives tightly, but only in one small spot, and not as deeply as you would expect by looking at it. There is a depth stop built into the jaws for repeatable mounting but that means that you don't get a lot of metal into the clamp, and you are always clamping the center of the knife, with the ends unsupported. The Pro PA provides a support block for the clamp so that you don't have to buy one off Etsy, but when you are grinding around the tip on a larger knife, that end will still be unsupported and the knife will still flex.

It's great that the Pro Precision Adjust includes a cheap angle finder, because the angle indicator sticker on the body has no bearing to reality. Every knife is different width, which changes the angle to the stone, and you need an angle finder to even be in the ballpark. This means the knives I sharpened on the old Precision Adjust set to 20 degrees on the sticker without an angle cube are god knows what angle.

Also, neither of the Precision Adjusts have a built it way to lock your angle adjustment threads. The old PA adjustment is quite loose and to easy to bump and move the angle. The Pro PA has much more tension on the adjustment screw, but it still is not capable of being locked to an angle.

The stone holder on the Pro Precision Adjust was another big issue for me. The entire holder slides back and forth on the rod right above where you are grinding and metallic dust was collecting in mine and gumming up the sliding action. I kept having to disassemble it in the middle of a knife to clean it out. I found that if you keep the diamond plates wet, it will keep the dust down dramatically, but Worksharp's materials say to grind dry so that's how I started out and it sucked.

The Pro Precision Adjust kit gives you 5 diamond plate grits, ceramic, and a narrow strop, and that can take you pretty far, but if you want to change to a different style of abrasive or go even higher grit, there are no options unless you get an aftermarket stone holder that can use 6x1 Edge Pro form factor stones.

And if you did get a new stone holder for your Pro PA, then the angle to the knife will change again, and indeed will change every time a stone of different thickness is inserted and the Worksharps do not have any good way of adjusting for abrasive thickness other than manually dialing in your angle again. Most Edge Pro derived systems have a way to account for this or add it in.

I ended up getting the TS Prof K03 and it's dual clamps can hold a bigger knife more steady than the Pro Precision Adjust, the stone holder is already 6x1 for the wide world of diamond matrix resin and CBN, and the holder is fixed to the slide rod that slides through a smooth bushing that is way the hell away from where the grinding is happening.

I haven't used any Wicked Edge system, and they clearly offer lots of options, but everything they sell is their own form factor and seems more expensive overall, maybe because the extraction is to buy two of every stone. I've also read posts and seen some videos about the WE clamp not being steady and the knife moving.

Here's a picture of a chef knife in the Pro PA. Note how shallow the grip is and how off the angle sticker is from the angle finders.





Here's a giant bowie knife from the 60's clamped in my K03. Its way, way heavier than a kitchen knife, and the clamps support it no problem.





I'm very happy with my K03, but if I had to rebuy a guided system and tried to spend less money, I'd look at the smaller TS Prof Kadet, a KME, or even the less known Edge Pro compatibles on sale at Gritomatic like Hapstone, Jende, Kakbritva. Something that uses an existing aftermarket of abrasive options instead of a closed kit.

I'm actually trying to learn freehand sharpening for my kitchen knives because they are dulling quicker than I'd like because they are cheap and I don't want to set up the guided system each time.

Plus I think that touching up an edge on a high grit bench stone is more likely to retain the original angle versus trying to hunt the existing bevel angle again on a guided system with a sharpie. Time will tell if I am right about that.

Thanks, this is really interesting. Have you looked at the Ken Onion at all? It's a completely different system, it's an upgraded version of their older belt-based systems and it doesn't use a clamp at all. It has a pair of guides to align things. I think that would preclude the kinds of issues you're describing.

I ran into a similar category of problem with an inexpensive DuoSharp knife sharpening guide, where the markings did not conform to physical reality, because they did not account for height difference. I don't understand how these basic issues aren't discovered during the design process.

That Old Ganon
Jan 2, 2012

THUNDERDOME LOSER
Would anyone have a recommendation for a Chinese chef's knife?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

It's something I have been wanting to buy for a while, and not been able to find any kiwi knifes at the local asian grocers, but been looking at some of the ones recommended here.
https://www.seriouseats.com/chinese-cleaver-kitchen-knife

But I have not used any of them unfortunately.

That Old Ganon
Jan 2, 2012

THUNDERDOME LOSER
Thanks so much for the link, that'll be a great place to start.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

People itt like that CCK cleaver but it more than doubled in price back before inflation set in just due to to being the default recommendation for a Chinese cleaver.

I got a Deng TA-01 from Aliexpress for ~$30 and have been pretty happy with it

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
This has come up a few times, but the increase in price for the CCK small cleaver is really just Chefknivestogo upping the price, the manufacturer hasn't (or hadn't, anyway) really raised prices much. Back on page 1, Chef de Cuisinart said you could buy any of the recognizable brands like Dexter-Russell or Victorinox and you'd be fine. SubG recommended Shibazi/SBZ. I have a CCK and it's great, but they aren't magic.

Kalsco
Jul 26, 2012


I bought a SBZ because of SubG and it's an mvp. Price is same as when I bought it years ago. Cheaper on taobao, even, if you're comfortable going that route.

If my shirogami #2 gyuto is a 10/10, and it's gorgeous and I love it, the SBZ is like an 8. Stupidly good for the price. Much prefer over the victorinox.

Stalizard
Aug 11, 2006

Have I got a headache!
is that a Western W49? because if it is, it rules and you rule

SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.

Kalsco posted:

I bought a SBZ because of SubG and it's an mvp. Price is same as when I bought it years ago. Cheaper on taobao, even, if you're comfortable going that route.
Yeah, the CCK KF130x is the knife that put Chinese cleavers on the English-speaking internet. I've got a KF1301 that I love, but wouldn't give ck2g US$100 or whatever they're asking these days when you can get a SBZ S210-1 for a fraction of that.

For anyone that's interested you can just check my posts in this thread and the first page of results will have side-by-side comparisons of a bunch of Chinese cleavers.

Nephzinho
Jan 25, 2008





I got my CCK as a gift and I enjoy it immensely, but had bought myself a SBZ and it's basically a slightly heavier less pretty version that I was perfectly happy using.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
ShiBaZi’s F208-2 has been the standard recommendation for a long time, and not without reason. It’s stainless, in a good size, and the manufacture is pretty reliable. F208-1 is the larger size.

If you want more options, I am apparently the only person on the English speaking Internet to own this RiteNife. It’s luxurious. And large. It’s as long as the -1 SBZs but a good deal taller. I have seen a couple people talk about this much smaller RiteNife, but I ain’t paying that much markup for it.

This no‐name knife is actually my most‐used, though.

Platystemon posted:

Here is a thirteen‐dollar no‐brand knife that pleasantly surprised me.

The steel that it said to be made of is a low‐end alloy, and I’m sure that it is quite soft, though I haven’t used it long enough for edge retention to be an issue.

So what’s great about it?

In one word, geometry. It’s very thin. It tapers smoothly from a little under two millimetres at the spine all the way to the cutting edge.

Here is a comparison of its choil with the Shibazi S210-1’s at the same scale:




That’s not delamination in the steel on the Shibazi, just a rough finish.

The no‐name blade measures 203 mm × 90 mm, 238 g

The Shibazi is 230 mm × 97 mm, 402 g

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Oh man, thanks for that, I'm in for one of those $12 no name specials!

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
Buddy of mine was asking for a chef's knife recommendation, he's never owned a proper one. He wanted something nicer than the Victorinox, he's definitely not going to do his own sharpening or anything, and after a bunch of discussion about his needs I recommended a Shun Classic to him. I know you can spend less for similar performance, but they're widely available, they're well-made, they're comfortable to handle, and they offer a (mostly) free sharpening service. He just got it a few days ago and he messaged me to tell me that it was life-changing (his words). It makes me really happy to see someone take my advice and realize how much better decent knives can be.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Picked this up at the Portland knife house. Good place, was fun to talk about different steels and stuff with other nerds.





guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Copper Vein posted:

I haven't been knife sharpening for very long, but in that time I have purchased and discarded three Worksharp systems and ended up getting the big TS Prof. All the worksharp stuff is built to offer the most complete kit for the absolute least $$$ but the result always felt imprecise and flimsy to me with too much plastic, even the new Pro Precision Adjust.

The clamp on the Pro Precision Adjust can grip onto knives tightly, but only in one small spot, and not as deeply as you would expect by looking at it. There is a depth stop built into the jaws for repeatable mounting but that means that you don't get a lot of metal into the clamp, and you are always clamping the center of the knife, with the ends unsupported. The Pro PA provides a support block for the clamp so that you don't have to buy one off Etsy, but when you are grinding around the tip on a larger knife, that end will still be unsupported and the knife will still flex.

It's great that the Pro Precision Adjust includes a cheap angle finder, because the angle indicator sticker on the body has no bearing to reality. Every knife is different width, which changes the angle to the stone, and you need an angle finder to even be in the ballpark. This means the knives I sharpened on the old Precision Adjust set to 20 degrees on the sticker without an angle cube are god knows what angle.

Also, neither of the Precision Adjusts have a built it way to lock your angle adjustment threads. The old PA adjustment is quite loose and to easy to bump and move the angle. The Pro PA has much more tension on the adjustment screw, but it still is not capable of being locked to an angle.

The stone holder on the Pro Precision Adjust was another big issue for me. The entire holder slides back and forth on the rod right above where you are grinding and metallic dust was collecting in mine and gumming up the sliding action. I kept having to disassemble it in the middle of a knife to clean it out. I found that if you keep the diamond plates wet, it will keep the dust down dramatically, but Worksharp's materials say to grind dry so that's how I started out and it sucked.

The Pro Precision Adjust kit gives you 5 diamond plate grits, ceramic, and a narrow strop, and that can take you pretty far, but if you want to change to a different style of abrasive or go even higher grit, there are no options unless you get an aftermarket stone holder that can use 6x1 Edge Pro form factor stones.

And if you did get a new stone holder for your Pro PA, then the angle to the knife will change again, and indeed will change every time a stone of different thickness is inserted and the Worksharps do not have any good way of adjusting for abrasive thickness other than manually dialing in your angle again. Most Edge Pro derived systems have a way to account for this or add it in.

I ended up getting the TS Prof K03 and it's dual clamps can hold a bigger knife more steady than the Pro Precision Adjust, the stone holder is already 6x1 for the wide world of diamond matrix resin and CBN, and the holder is fixed to the slide rod that slides through a smooth bushing that is way the hell away from where the grinding is happening.

I haven't used any Wicked Edge system, and they clearly offer lots of options, but everything they sell is their own form factor and seems more expensive overall, maybe because the extraction is to buy two of every stone. I've also read posts and seen some videos about the WE clamp not being steady and the knife moving.

Here's a picture of a chef knife in the Pro PA. Note how shallow the grip is and how off the angle sticker is from the angle finders.





Here's a giant bowie knife from the 60's clamped in my K03. Its way, way heavier than a kitchen knife, and the clamps support it no problem.





I'm very happy with my K03, but if I had to rebuy a guided system and tried to spend less money, I'd look at the smaller TS Prof Kadet, a KME, or even the less known Edge Pro compatibles on sale at Gritomatic like Hapstone, Jende, Kakbritva. Something that uses an existing aftermarket of abrasive options instead of a closed kit.

I'm actually trying to learn freehand sharpening for my kitchen knives because they are dulling quicker than I'd like because they are cheap and I don't want to set up the guided system each time.

Plus I think that touching up an edge on a high grit bench stone is more likely to retain the original angle versus trying to hunt the existing bevel angle again on a guided system with a sharpie. Time will tell if I am right about that.

I still haven't pulled the trigger on a sharpener, although I'm close to buying the Ken Onion. I was, in fact, planning to do that today maybe but then I thought maybe I should take another look at the Wicked Edge, since if I am going to spend a bunch of money, I'd rather spend a bit more and be happy than spend a bit less and still be dissatisfied. But looking at how the Wicked Edge works, doesn't it have the same problem as the Work Sharp Precision Adjust models? Like, yeah, you can set the angle on the machine and maybe it's right for a knife that's 2" from spine to heel but won't it be more obtuse than that if you put in something like a Chinese cleaver that's several inches tall? Or vice versa, whatever height it considers the "standard."

Maybe this stuff doesn't matter, I don't know. Maybe it's a difference of like 0.4 degrees or something and it just doesn't matter at all. But I am hoping to make one final purchase and then never need to re-purchase (other than maybe belts for the KO or whatever occasionally), so I'd like to be informed. I'm probably overthinking it, but I'm so fed up with trying to make this stuff work that I really don't want to buy something that doesn't suit my needs again.

I could look at the TSProf too but it seems like it would have the same problem. The global political situation being what it is, I am also slightly leery of buying Russian-made equipment at the moment, which is maybe dumb of me but what can you do.

EDIT: The KO apparently produces a convex grind, which they say is sturdier. I don't know if that's true or if there are downsides to that.

guppy fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jul 23, 2023

Doom Rooster
Sep 3, 2008

Pillbug
You are right that the angle will change very slightly based on knife height, but it doesn’t really matter unless you care that your 20 degree edge is ACTUALLY 19.5. What matters in consistency, which is a matter of consistent placement of the same knife.


I have the Wicked Edge Pro, and it comes with a journal for both the angle you used on specific knives, but also a place for the position marking on the angle guide. The included one is just horizontal placement. Spend the $6 on the advanced angle guide with height so you are placing the knife in the exact same place every time, and you’ll be sharpening the exact same angle.

It’s seriously like 5 strokes per side with each grit to bring a knife back from unusably dull to shaving sharp. Less than 2 minutes.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Doom Rooster posted:

You are right that the angle will change very slightly based on knife height, but it doesn’t really matter unless you care that your 20 degree edge is ACTUALLY 19.5. What matters in consistency, which is a matter of consistent placement of the same knife.


I have the Wicked Edge Pro, and it comes with a journal for both the angle you used on specific knives, but also a place for the position marking on the angle guide. The included one is just horizontal placement. Spend the $6 on the advanced angle guide with height so you are placing the knife in the exact same place every time, and you’ll be sharpening the exact same angle.

It’s seriously like 5 strokes per side with each grit to bring a knife back from unusably dull to shaving sharp. Less than 2 minutes.

That's kind of what I thought, yeah, the picture in the post I quoted of the Work Sharp -- where the angle guide is around 22 degrees but the electronic guide indicates 19.something just has me spooked. I probably don't care if it's slightly off, but 3 degrees on a knife that isn't even that tall seems more significant.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

If you’re going to spend wicked edge money I think $48 for an angle cube is a good investment. Can probably also use your phone but it’s gonna be kinda awkward and you’ll get steel dust on it.

I sharpen most of my knives to 15 which according to the marks on the Edge for the knife I just sharpened is like 17.75 degrees.

I also just checked the difference between a chefs knife using the deeper alignment holes and a petty using the shallow ones and there’s a nearly 2 degree difference, what was 15 on the chefs is 16.8 on the petty (for the petty the marks on the WE were pretty accurate, for the chef they weren’t)

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Jul 23, 2023

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
Yeah, that makes sense. Sucks, though, the thing is already expensive as hell. (And if you've gotta buy an angle cube anyway because you can't trust the angle markings on the device, the reasons to buy it over the Work Sharp are fewer.) For what I'd want I think the minimum is around $460, and I'd really prefer a setup that runs closer to $650. That's... a lot of money.

The Ken Onion is still appealing at a fraction of the price. One thing that stands out to me about it is that it apparently creates a convex grind, not a flat grind. Many of the people reviewing it seem to be fine with or even happy about it... but they're mostly sharpening folding knives and hunting knives and whatnot, and I'm not sure if that's undesirable for kitchen knives, which are my main use case (though I also have pocket knives I would like to sharpen).

guppy fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 24, 2023

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Doom Rooster posted:

You are right that the angle will change very slightly based on knife height, but it doesn’t really matter unless you care that your 20 degree edge is ACTUALLY 19.5. What matters in consistency, which is a matter of consistent placement of the same knife.


I have the Wicked Edge Pro, and it comes with a journal for both the angle you used on specific knives, but also a place for the position marking on the angle guide. The included one is just horizontal placement. Spend the $6 on the advanced angle guide with height so you are placing the knife in the exact same place every time, and you’ll be sharpening the exact same angle.

It’s seriously like 5 strokes per side with each grit to bring a knife back from unusably dull to shaving sharp. Less than 2 minutes.

What grit do you start and finish with? I’m still figuring out my regular sharpening/touch up routine

Doom Rooster
Sep 3, 2008

Pillbug

bird with big dick posted:

What grit do you start and finish with? I’m still figuring out my regular sharpening/touch up routine

If I’m just doing a touch up on a blade with no damage, I just work through the 400/600/800/1000. The 400 might take actually take 10ish strokes to form a good burr, but the rest are like 5. Still, legit
Less than 2 minutes per (non-giant) knife after I started using the precision angle guide to get the exact same angle every time.

I do have the 1500/blank pack with like 2000/3000 papers, but almost never use them. Just for my filet knife and if I want to show off, pretty much. I actually prefer the little bit of texture from the 1000 finish for most applications.

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007
Sharpening grits are steel-dependent.

I take AEB-L knives to 1k and then a light pass or two at 3k.

Knives with 1080/80crv2/1095 (simple high carbon steels) cutting edges I take all the way up to 8k, though mostly for the mirror edge, 5k is generally enough. I'm not satisfied with the sharpness of the edge in those knives at 3k or below.

Cheap stainless steel will likely be fine at ~1k, not that you'll ever get a truly great edge on those steels.

This is due to the varying sizes of carbides between different steels.

Kenshin fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jul 24, 2023

Development
Jun 2, 2016

Kenshin posted:

Sharpening grits are steel-dependent.

I take AEB-L knives to 1k and then a light pass or two at 3k.

Knives with 1080/80crv2/1095 (simple high carbon steels) cutting edges I take all the way up to 8k, though mostly for the mirror edge, 5k is generally enough. I'm not satisfied with the sharpness of the edge in those knives at 3k or below.

Cheap stainless steel will likely be fine at ~1k, not that you'll ever get a truly great edge on those steels.

This is due to the varying sizes of carbides between different steels.

I'm insanely hyped for a custom sakimaru takohiki I ordered from Nenohi. It's going to be Kaede stain-resistant steel, HRc is probably going to be 62-64. The sales rep suggested that I should touch up the knife with 6-8k immediately before service.

Copper Vein
Mar 14, 2007

...and we liked it that way.

guppy posted:

But looking at how the Wicked Edge works, doesn't it have the same problem as the Work Sharp Precision Adjust models? Like, yeah, you can set the angle on the machine and maybe it's right for a knife that's 2" from spine to heel but won't it be more obtuse than that if you put in something like a Chinese cleaver that's several inches tall? Or vice versa, whatever height it considers the "standard."

All the guided angle sharpers I've seen share the same characteristic where the depth of the blade affects the sharpening angle. You are making a right triangle where the knife in the clamp is the 90 degree angle leading to the acute angle where the abrasive hits the edge and sets the bevel.

Sharpening systems with graduated angles printed on the vertical adjustment mean will not help you find the real angle on your knife, and IMO there is no point in this type of sharpener unless you can know your final grind angle pretty precisely, so an angle cube is absolutely required, for every model. Without one, you really have no idea what angle you are setting, and if you try to revisit a knife in that sharpener for a touchup, you will have to hunt the angle with a sharpie and small adjustments.

I got the TS Prof K03 Hunter kit with the angle finder built into the stone holder and I think it is boss as all hell. TS Prof calls it the Axicube I can they claim it is accurate even when you sweep laterally across the blade where normal angle cubes lose precision when you move the cube off of the Y-axis that you calibrated it. That part may not be important, but I can calibrate the TS Prof cube and then no matter how I clamp the knife, the Axicube displays the measured angle to the tenths place as I turn the knob to adjust the height of the rod adjustment. I've checked it with my other angle cubes and it has always been accurate.

TS Prof does themselves no favors with having too many models, and kits, and all the videos on their youtube channel somehow still seem insufficient in sorting it all out. They just recently released a stand-alone follow-up the the Axicube I called the... Axicube 1. That version is not built into the stone holder and has different modes to work with other TS Prof models. I don't think it is enticing, I just wanted to be clear about what I have been using.

One other thing is relevant to this discussion, and that the Worksharp PA's have over the Profs, is that the Worksharp clamps have a depth stop in them to help you get a repeatable clamp on your knife. For all of the precision and build quality of the TS Profs, the clamps lack a depth stop, so if you take the knife out of the clamp and try and replace it later, you are on your own to try and locate the knife in the clamp again. You just use your angle cube and a sharpie to zero in on the adjustment again, but it can effect a noticeable difference on the the curved part of the blade if you were to get it wrong and grind away.


I've gotten myself a couple sets of whetstones and have been touching up our kitchen knives on them and trying to develop some muscle memory. I bought a Dao Vua carbon steel nakiri to practice on, but its bevel is microscopic because I guess they set it on a belt grinder. I don't think I can hold the knife steady on .3mm of bevel, so my plan is to pop the nakiri in the TS Prof and set an even 15 degree bevel, and then try and maintain that as need be on my stones. I have made dicing onions in my house a stupendously complicated ordeal.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob
Thanks. I think you are right. The Ken Onion, I think -- weirdly, for all the videos about it, no one goes into a ton of detail about the angle guide -- has an entirely different system where there is literally an adjustable angled thing you can hold the knife against to enforce the angle, so I think that one wouldn't have that problem.

I edited this into my last post, so I'm not sure if people saw it or not: is a convex grind good on a kitchen knife? Bad? Doesn't matter? That's the main thing holding me back from just ordering the KO at this point. Most people using the Work Sharp stuff are doing pocket or hunting knives, where the additional strength they claim seems desirable, but I don't know if that's a problem for a kitchen knife.

Copper Vein
Mar 14, 2007

...and we liked it that way.

guppy posted:

I edited this into my last post, so I'm not sure if people saw it or not: is a convex grind good on a kitchen knife? Bad? Doesn't matter? That's the main thing holding me back from just ordering the KO at this point. Most people using the Work Sharp stuff are doing pocket or hunting knives, where the additional strength they claim seems desirable, but I don't know if that's a problem for a kitchen knife.

I really couldn't say, as I have no experience with any belt grinder sharpening, or convex edges. I wouldn't expect a convex edge to be a detriment to the kitchen though. If I understand convex grinds correctly, the bevel starts out shallow from the primary grind, and then becomes more obtuse as it nears the apex. So if it is transitioning from 15 degrees to 20 at the apex, the bevel still is overall as narrow compared to the primary grind as if it were 15 degrees straight. But maybe I don't know what I'm talking about here.

Here's some videos about the Ken Onion, maybe you've already seen them. They do talk about setting the angle, but they all seem to be using the Blade Grinding Attachment which is an extra $100 if you don't get it as part of the $200 kit with the Ken Onion.

Checking edge angle accuracy of Worksharp Ken Onion

Ken Onion Elite Sharpener - full process

Avoid common Ken Onion WorkSharp Errors

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Copper Vein posted:

I really couldn't say, as I have no experience with any belt grinder sharpening, or convex edges. I wouldn't expect a convex edge to be a detriment to the kitchen though. If I understand convex grinds correctly, the bevel starts out shallow from the primary grind, and then becomes more obtuse as it nears the apex. So if it is transitioning from 15 degrees to 20 at the apex, the bevel still is overall as narrow compared to the primary grind as if it were 15 degrees straight. But maybe I don't know what I'm talking about here.

Here's some videos about the Ken Onion, maybe you've already seen them. They do talk about setting the angle, but they all seem to be using the Blade Grinding Attachment which is an extra $100 if you don't get it as part of the $200 kit with the Ken Onion.

Checking edge angle accuracy of Worksharp Ken Onion

Ken Onion Elite Sharpener - full process

Avoid common Ken Onion WorkSharp Errors

Thanks. I hadn't watched those, but I have now. Yeah, with the blade grinding attachment the videos aren't a ton of help; you're basically freehanding it, they have a flat plate for you to "reset" to 0 degrees (and the adjustment changes the angle of the belt) but that's all. Definitely not helpful enough to me. I watched this instructional video from Work Sharp, though, and it does clearly show that the angle guide does what I want. I think that will work if a convex grind is all right for this use case.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
20% of all Japanese made knives at bernal cutlery today

Raikiri
Nov 3, 2008


Ordered almost 2 months ago and finally turned up, travelled about 19,000 miles in doing so (thanks DHL).

Thoht
Aug 3, 2006

Beautiful!

Scythe
Jan 26, 2004
That's a nice knife.

Development
Jun 2, 2016

Raikiri posted:



Ordered almost 2 months ago and finally turned up, travelled about 19,000 miles in doing so (thanks DHL).

more details on this beauty!!!

Raikiri
Nov 3, 2008

Development posted:

more details on this beauty!!!

Tsunehisa AS Migaki 135mm with a custom handle. Aogami super steel with stainless cladding, used it to break down a load of fish today. Really nice to use, great balance and very light.

Steve Yun
Aug 7, 2003
I'm a parasitic landlord that needs to get a job instead of stealing worker's money. Make sure to remind me when I post.
Soiled Meat
Been seeing a lot of ads for rolling knife sharpeners lately

CultFlav did a review

https://www.tiktok.com/embed/7264285118922050858

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007
This one took me a long time. I originally forged it in my mentor's studio back in January 2022, and only finished it a few months ago. My photographer buddy finally had time recently to take some glamour shots. My partner and I have been using it in our kitchen regularly--yes, this one I made for myself.





My mentor called the pattern 'Flaming Tiki'--we did it by creating the basket-weave mosaic and then forge welding the two halves of the feather pattern to it. We created the tip by doing birds-beak forge welds to join the feather pattern back together at the tip.

I hesitated a bunch of months after heat treating it before getting into the grinding, because the transition between the blade and bolster was quite challenging to get symmetrical on both sides. I did a museum-fit on the handle, which is entirely made from a piece of Siamese Rosewood burl.

Right about 7.25" blade length from tip to heel.

Scythe
Jan 26, 2004
the whole knife took skill obviously but that grinding looks tough and you nailed it. Looks comfortable to use!

Development
Jun 2, 2016

Kenshin posted:

This one took me a long time. I originally forged it in my mentor's studio back in January 2022, and only finished it a few months ago. My photographer buddy finally had time recently to take some glamour shots. My partner and I have been using it in our kitchen regularly--yes, this one I made for myself.

drat this is gorgeous!

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Anyone know of any good knife stores in Seattle, not seeing any real promising ones by searching.

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Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007

bird with big dick posted:

Anyone know of any good knife stores in Seattle, not seeing any real promising ones by searching.

https://www.bladegallery.com/ is one of the premier knife stores in the nation, they recently moved from Kirkland to SoDo

https://www.knifesharpeningseattle.com/ also keeps a pretty nice (though smaller) selection of knives, both mass produced and handmade.

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