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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I've been gone most of last week and missed the sump replies.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Then farm eels in the underbasement.
If they're electric eels can they power the pump? Should I just farm eels in the sump?

I'll do some more looking at this. The lift is minimal for the pump, probably a 2-1/2' give or take from the bottom of the sump to the discharge and then its gravity to the storm sewer. I *do* have a back-up discharge which goes directly outside the house which is probably closer to 8' of lift but I've never used it other than when I initially put it in 7ish years ago. We had an exceptionally cold winter that year with a very deep frost that actually managed to freeze the in ground discharge, so I put in an alternative as a just-in-case.

Regarding the water powered back up, I don't really have an "easy" way to hook into it as the sump is a few rooms away from the closest water source, short of popping a bunch of holes in interior walls and running a hose, and even then we'd need to be home to turn it on. With my luck we'd have a power failure when I'm away.

I'll do some more investigating and see what I come up with. I think if I can do a 24hr back up that would go a long way to making me feel better. Our power is typically very reliable, it's just for that rare event I'd like to have some sort of back up.

I do have a small generator (that's a piece of poo poo) but obviously I'd need to be home to start it and plug in the pump via a long extension cord.

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ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

GlyphGryph posted:

Glad I went in person, apparently half inch (brass) is a very different size from half inch (compression). I knew the straight thread was different from tapered but didnt realize that even for straight threads there were different types.

Apparently needing a half inch pipe to compression 3/8ths supply is... not somwthing I should actually need to do and nothing they had was quite right, so the solution is a bit hacky, but it seems solved at least.

As someone who has 3/8ths copper to all of my appliances, I feel this in my bones.

Slanderer
May 6, 2007
Does spot-applied glycophosphate travel out of the roots of the treated plant? Every year I pull poison ivy from my hedges, and its not fully gone yet (my neighbor sometimes pulls some from the hedges separating our yards, and might not cut down to the ground). If I pulled an ivy vine out of the hedge without breaking it and treated its leaves, should I be able to kill just that plant without affecting the roots of the hedges?

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
I never realized poison ivy vines could get so thick... some of the ones I'm hacking apart and spraying this week, now that I'm getting deep into the thicker patches, are almost three inches wide. Definitely glad to have picked up the poison, I can't even imagine how I would get some of this stuff up by hand.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Slanderer posted:

Does spot-applied glycophosphate travel out of the roots of the treated plant? Every year I pull poison ivy from my hedges, and its not fully gone yet (my neighbor sometimes pulls some from the hedges separating our yards, and might not cut down to the ground). If I pulled an ivy vine out of the hedge without breaking it and treated its leaves, should I be able to kill just that plant without affecting the roots of the hedges?
Yes, but the better way to do this is to cut the stem of the poison ivy vine and immediately bush/spray it with concentrated glyphosate. A landscaper friend swear by using a bottle with a sponge/brush applicator like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Racquet-Art-...15636019&sr=8-3
It's important to apply it ASAP after cutting, like within a minute or so. It also doesn't work as well in the spring because most of the juice in the plant is flowing up and away from the roots and will push the glyphosate out, but IME will still usually kill stuff. It works best in summer and fall.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




slidebite posted:

Regarding the water powered back up, I don't really have an "easy" way to hook into it as the sump is a few rooms away from the closest water source, short of popping a bunch of holes in interior walls and running a hose, and even then we'd need to be home to turn it on. With my luck we'd have a power failure when I'm away.

I'll do some more investigating and see what I come up with. I think if I can do a 24hr back up that would go a long way to making me feel better. Our power is typically very reliable, it's just for that rare event I'd like to have some sort of back up.

With a water powered pump as a backup, you wouldn't need to be home to turn it on. It uses a float to activate the pump, but typically the float rising increases pressure in a tube which is connected to a valve on the mains water supply. Float rises, valve opens and it starts pumping. You just set the backup float above the level of the primary pump float.

Battery will likely work if running a permanent water line is too much of a hassle though.

Slanderer
May 6, 2007

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Yes, but the better way to do this is to cut the stem of the poison ivy vine and immediately bush/spray it with concentrated glyphosate. A landscaper friend swear by using a bottle with a sponge/brush applicator like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Racquet-Art-...15636019&sr=8-3
It's important to apply it ASAP after cutting, like within a minute or so. It also doesn't work as well in the spring because most of the juice in the plant is flowing up and away from the roots and will push the glyphosate out, but IME will still usually kill stuff. It works best in summer and fall.

lol the thing I immediately pictured for spot treating was a dauber, but in my case I'll probably just use disposable paint/glue brushes since i should only have a handful of stems to treat. Thanks for the info!

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


If you have any small needle-less syringes laying around, like the kind to dispense oral medication to pets, that is what I end up using. The vine I am battling has very small stems so usually one drop of the stuff is all I need. Then I just toss the thing when done so I don't need to come into contact with the stuff while cleaning anything.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
I'm fixing up the ceiling in my bathroom and I'm also planning on replacing the lovely, weaksauce ventilation fan that's in there with a much more powerful unit. It's like ~65 sqft bathroom and the fan is ducted out like 8 feet to the outside wall of the house from where it is installed through the attic. Anyone got any recommendations? I don't have any clearance issues as it's just up in the attic and I can easily cut the hole in the ceiling bigger to accommodate a larger unit (the one in there now is just a dinky 8"x8" cheapo one).

I'm willing to pay a premium on this to really move air out of the bathroom effectively to cut down on the condensation I get in there right now, since this thing is gonna be in there for the long haul.

One that has some kind of automatic sensor on it would be nice, but not strictly required. And I'd prefer one without a light or where the light could be disabled somehow (even if it's just unplugging it during installation or something).

100 HOGS AGREE fucked around with this message at 15:17 on May 16, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

I'm fixing up the ceiling in my bathroom and I'm also planning on replacing the lovely, weaksauce ventilation fan that's in there with a much more powerful unit. It's like ~65 sqft bathroom and the fan is ducted out like 8 feet to the outside wall of the house from where it is installed through the attic. Anyone got any recommendations? I don't have any clearance issues as it's just up in the attic and I can easily cut the hole in the ceiling bigger to accommodate a larger unit (the one in there now is just a dinky 8"x8" cheapo one).

I'm willing to pay a premium on this to really move air out of the bathroom effectively to cut down on the condensation I get in there right now, since this thing is gonna be in there for the long haul.

One that has some kind of automatic sensor on it would be nice, but not strictly required. And I'd prefer one without a light or where the light could be disabled somehow (even if it's just unplugging it during installation or something).

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Panasonic-FV-1115VQ1-WhisperCeiling-DC-110-130-150-CFM-Ceiling-Ventilation-Fan

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So our old currently vacant house we are getting ready for some tenants had a big leak and we had to have a resto company come in. At one point they had to pull the built in closet shelving from my daughter's old room and when they did this was sitting behind it staring at them:



It's a doll my daughter's great grandmother had gotten her in Mexico that I guess had fallen behind the cabinetry. The foreman said his crew is all Hispanic and freaked the gently caress out thinking it was some voodoo poo poo and refused to work until he came and moved it. I've always been a big fan of people hiding stuff in the walls when they are doing work for somebody to discover years later so this definitely made my day.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011


this is what I just put in my bathroom on a timer switch and I love it lol

install was super easy, it’s incredibly quiet, and my mirror never fogs now

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
Yeah I just ordered that one, there was an open box new one on Amazon for like $70 bucks off so I jumped on it, thanks.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
But is whisper quiet really something you want in a bathroom fan? I like the ... Noise masking.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


I have the same fan and can hear it above the shower noise while in the shower. It's not completely silent, but it won't cover up your bathroom embarrassments either. I guess you could always like, stick some baseball cards in the spokes, or something.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug
Is there any particular software anyone uses for tile layout? I am using Visio right now, and its not too bad, but I just want to see what's out there.

I am going to do a backsplash for our kitchen, and I want to be able to layout a couple of different sizes of tile ( whichever ones my wife likes ).

Meandering story:

During the pandemic we were locked in our house as you do, and we measured and bought some tile. However, I think there was too much COVID drinking because I only bought 20 sheets, where the math just worked out to 19 sheets and 1 row. And that is if none are broken ( a couple of the single tiles on the sheets are ). It makes me SUPER nervous to do babby's second tile job and have almost NO spares incase I drop / loose / break with my goof hands.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

I think that's the bathroom fan we installed and it makes sufficient noise for me to not go tinnitus related crazy when using the bathroom. It is much quieter than the old rattling thing it replaced.

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

I have these (what I think) beautiful porcelain or some kind of stone bathroom floor tiles. They're white and have a line pattern/light emboss effect, with some lines being shiny and some being dull. They aren't smooth and they get dirty every single day. It's just my wife and I using the bathroom. We clean them weekly with a spinning steam mop that doesn't seem to fully clean them but gets the obvious crud out. Every day I'm spraying the floor to get rid of dirt stains, etc., which never fully works until I get the steam mop out.

Is this simply the nature of the tile combined with it being white? Is there something I can do to get it to stop getting so dirty? Maybe some kind of easy-to-clean finish? Maybe there's a good cleaning spray I can use to make this easier?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

small butter posted:

I have these (what I think) beautiful porcelain or some kind of stone bathroom floor tiles. They're white and have a line pattern/light emboss effect, with some lines being shiny and some being dull. They aren't smooth and they get dirty every single day. It's just my wife and I using the bathroom. We clean them weekly with a spinning steam mop that doesn't seem to fully clean them but gets the obvious crud out. Every day I'm spraying the floor to get rid of dirt stains, etc., which never fully works until I get the steam mop out.

Is this simply the nature of the tile combined with it being white? Is there something I can do to get it to stop getting so dirty? Maybe some kind of easy-to-clean finish? Maybe there's a good cleaning spray I can use to make this easier?

Have they ever been sealed?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Are you wearing shoes inside the house?

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Yes I am protected

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



100 HOGS AGREE posted:

I'm fixing up the ceiling in my bathroom and I'm also planning on replacing the lovely, weaksauce ventilation fan that's in there with a much more powerful unit...

Make sure you have a 4" or larger duct, and that it is unobstructed. Three inches will thwart a more powerful fan

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

devicenull posted:

Have they ever been sealed?

I'm not sure, and I'm not even sure what that means. Should I post a picture?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

small butter posted:

I'm not sure, and I'm not even sure what that means. Should I post a picture?

Picture may or may not help, but ingeneral, there are sealing liquids you can apply that are often used for natural porous stones or rougher finish closed pore things because they pick up dirt like you describe. Some last a little while, some last a lot longer. To no one's surprise it seems like the longer they last the more they stink and the harder they are to apply.

It's best to figure out what you have to make sure the sealer is compatible. Closed pore stuff like ceramic or porcelain is really unforgiving and the wrong types of sealer will fail and sheet up/peel pretty soon.

If your tiles are rough enough to be picking up dirt like this they are probably cermaic and not porcelain. If any are chipped that's a good clue: porcelain has the color all the way through and ceramic will be white underneath.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:30 on May 17, 2024

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

small butter posted:

I'm not sure, and I'm not even sure what that means. Should I post a picture?

A picture probably wont help much, but if you don't know it probably means it's overdue. You'd use something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Miracle-Sealants-511-Impregnator-32-fl-oz-Clear-Natural-Stone-Sealer-and-Finish-Pour-Bottle/1000566003 which should help somewhat. You'd want to clean the floor pretty well first and then follow the instructions. It might not entirely fix your problem, but it's pretty cheap and can't really hurt.

This is somewhat of a wear item, so you'd need to repeat when you notice you start having problems again (a few years from now probably)

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

devicenull posted:

A picture probably wont help much, but if you don't know it probably means it's overdue. You'd use something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Miracle-Sealants-511-Impregnator-32-fl-oz-Clear-Natural-Stone-Sealer-and-Finish-Pour-Bottle/1000566003 which should help somewhat. You'd want to clean the floor pretty well first and then follow the instructions. It might not entirely fix your problem, but it's pretty cheap and can't really hurt.

This is somewhat of a wear item, so you'd need to repeat when you notice you start having problems again (a few years from now probably)

Thanks.

What do you recommend for cleaning? There's some trouble spots that I can't seem to get clean. I tried several cleaners, including vinegar solutions and hydrogen peroxide. Is bleach unsafe?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

small butter posted:

Thanks.

What do you recommend for cleaning? There's some trouble spots that I can't seem to get clean. I tried several cleaners, including vinegar solutions and hydrogen peroxide. Is bleach unsafe?

Get a steamer. They are magical.

small butter
Oct 8, 2011

Motronic posted:

Get a steamer. They are magical.

That's what I use. I even tried deep steaming it for like 10 minutes straight but some spots still look dirty.

This sealer - do I just brush it on? No strokes visible? Do I apply multiple coats?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Questions about siding.

House is from 1988. Original owner sold it in 2020, 2nd owner was military and sold in 2022, which is when we bought it, so we just hit 2 years.

The 2nd owner did nothing re: maintenance. We know the roof is about 8 years old, and were told by the neighbors that the original owner “did everything” to get the house ready for sale, including pressure washing outside/priming the walls inside, etc.

We think we have cedar siding. This picture is from when we moved in because the inspector noticed woodpecker damage (we’ve since filled those holes with some kind of silicon caulk the pest control guy recommended).

I’ll get some more pics tomorrow since it’s raining today, but for the questions:

Is this cedar siding and does it look painted or stained? I’m guessing stained but I’m not sure if it’s a clear stain or semi clear or colored or what.

How often do homes need restained? I have had a few handymen over and everyone’s answer to anything I ask about maintenance is always “yeah, it needs it” or “yeah it’s due”, so I’m trying to ground truth this a bit.

Second-would you restain or paint cedar? Hopefully we won’t be in this house longer than 3-4 years but I think we’ll have to do something in the meantime for maintenance. We had someone pressure wash and stain the deck last year and that already looks like poo poo so I think that needs redone. We got a ton of rain this year so there’s some green algae on the deck and parts of the siding where it doesn’t get a lot of sun.



Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

D-Pad posted:

So our old currently vacant house we are getting ready for some tenants had a big leak and we had to have a resto company come in. At one point they had to pull the built in closet shelving from my daughter's old room and when they did this was sitting behind it staring at them:



It's a doll my daughter's great grandmother had gotten her in Mexico that I guess had fallen behind the cabinetry. The foreman said his crew is all Hispanic and freaked the gently caress out thinking it was some voodoo poo poo and refused to work until he came and moved it. I've always been a big fan of people hiding stuff in the walls when they are doing work for somebody to discover years later so this definitely made my day.

lol

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

nwin posted:

Questions about siding.


Second-would you restain or paint cedar? Hopefully we won’t be in this house longer than 3-4 years but I think we’ll have to do something in the meantime for maintenance. We had someone pressure wash and stain the deck last year and that already looks like poo poo so I think that needs redone. We got a ton of rain this year so there’s some green algae on the deck and parts of the siding where it doesn’t get a lot of sun.





I'd stain. If the wood looks good then stain looks way better. And painting is a one way decision. It's such a pain to go back, especially if the siding is rough textured, that it'll stay painted forever.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I used untreated cedar for corner trim on my garage. I installed it 20-years ago, and wherever it's sun-exposed, it's silver-grey.

I could probably make it reddish-brown again with the pressure washer, but it's likely to raise the grain.

The only issues I've had is the (cedar) deck screws backing out ere & there, and fuckin' tree rodents chewing on the left-rear outside corner for some ungodly reason.

2004:



2019:



Yes, the 'tearing' is coming off of screws made for cedar. They don't last forever.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Do you think mine is already stained? And how often to restain it?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

nwin posted:

Do you think mine is already stained? And how often to restain it?

That's absolutely got something on it. Probably a sealer.

If not it woukd be gray/silver by now.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Motronic posted:

That's absolutely got something on it. Probably a sealer.

If not it woukd be gray/silver by now.

Yeah, it'd look something like this:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I never understood the intersection between "I don't like that look" and "install cedar anyway and fight nature with sealer and stain for the life of your siding".

And once you've done that you're hosed. Because it will never weather naturally, it will just be all botchy and weird unless you keep up on cleaning and sealing/staining it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Pine tar, raw linseed oil and turpentine. 1/3rd each by volume.

Try it on a spot or some loose boards and see how it looks and ages. It should weather pretty well and doesn't seal anything.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

small butter posted:

That's what I use. I even tried deep steaming it for like 10 minutes straight but some spots still look dirty.

This sealer - do I just brush it on? No strokes visible? Do I apply multiple coats?

Read the instructions of whatever you end up with. I linked a random one from lowes, ymmv based on what's available locally.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

just ran an NG line to my griddle before 11:00am and with only one home depot trip :cool:

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small butter
Oct 8, 2011

right arm posted:

just ran an NG line to my griddle before 11:00am and with only one home depot trip :cool:

drat, while I'm still eating brekkie at 12:33 PM.

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