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I can’t tell from the pictures, but I’ve had white crystal stuff on my clay pebbles before. I expected it to be the minerals and hardness from my water just staying there when it dries. That and some of the nutrients. White fuzzy stuff is normally mold, so it’s wet, warm, and light enough for mold to grow, but maybe it’s the sediment in the rockwool too?
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Jun 10, 2020 16:04
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 is this mold on the base of aero garden cherry tomatoes?
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Jun 10, 2020 23:08
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willroc7 posted:
It seems to be coming from the plant itself. Roots can get fuzzy in hydroponics. https://www.facebook.com/campbellgr...09120949165810/ https://twitter.com/greatwhitemyco/status/989264131680239616 edit: Yeah probably roots. https://www.thespruce.com/plant-tom...they%20develop. quote:Burying your tomato plants deep into the soil helps them grow better because tomatoes form roots all along any buried portion of the stem—if you look closely you will see tiny bumps, which are the roots before they develop. These are called adventitious roots, meaning these roots form on the upper part of the plant—the stem, leaves, branches (but just the stem for the tomato plant)—instead of the main root ball. More roots equate to your plants having the increased ability to take in water and nutrients, which means you will end up with a healthier plant that is less susceptible to drought. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 23:30
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Do tomatoes need to be pruned? I have two plants in dutch buckets and they are... big. I planted them around the beginning of May and am about to transition the food to flowering, and have some green tomatoes growing in the inside of the plant, but it feels like there's way too much plant for the amount of tomato is growing. And the green ones seem to have stalled out a bit. Are bees important? A related question might be if there's a good nutrient chart somewhere for various plants?
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Jun 11, 2020 06:26
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Zachack posted:Do tomatoes need to be pruned? I have two plants in dutch buckets and they are... big. I planted them around the beginning of May and am about to transition the food to flowering, and have some green tomatoes growing in the inside of the plant, but it feels like there's way too much plant for the amount of tomato is growing. And the green ones seem to have stalled out a bit. Are bees important? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSThHf7Vzl0. Do the pollination yourself with an electric toothbrush. I don't know of a good source for just vegetables but I believe tomatoes are kind of similar to marijuana. Jack's nutrients has this chart for hydroponic tomatoes.https://5efb2711-22d2-46e2-827b-2f81215c4be7.filesusr.com/ugd/3230c0_4183e217c67145f58f63b50ecc760341.pdf Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 06:40
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willroc7 posted:
I know I am surrounded by billions of plants all the time but until I started growing plants hydroponically I never fully appreciated just how amazing a plant growing actually is, and seeing details that are normally hidden by dirt or seeing growth patterns I'd miss if I didn't look at it every day. My first system was the original Aerogarden which worked pretty spectacularly, but stuff really grows too well to be in such a small space and it was a constant struggle to keep it from growing into the lights. I guess that even holds true for larger systems because I am about a week away from killing my prolific pepper plant because it grows so well that I'm in there for 10 minutes every 2 days doing maintenance and gathering fruits and if I wanted to work at something that hard I would have a job.
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Jun 11, 2020 12:43
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So I took one of those aero garden tomato pods with 3 plants growing in it, completely cut down the 2 smaller ones, and transplanted it into a 3” net cut in my DWC with all the roots still there. Will the roots from the 2 dead plants become a problem?
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Jun 12, 2020 00:51
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willroc7 posted:So I took one of those aero garden tomato pods with 3 plants growing in it, completely cut down the 2 smaller ones, and transplanted it into a 3” net cut in my DWC with all the roots still there. Will the roots from the 2 dead plants become a problem? Roots without a plant sustaining them will die and then rot. How big of an issue this is depends on how big your reservoir is and how much root mass there is. If we're talking early starts with a large container, I wouldn't sweat it. If they were well developed and you're doing a small container, removing them would probably be prudent.
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Jun 12, 2020 01:56
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Duck and Cover posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSThHf7Vzl0. Do the pollination yourself with an electric toothbrush. I've brushed my flowers so hopefully it will produce, thanks for the link. I found a couple new tomatoes starting when I went flower hunting so at least it's not all stalled out.
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Jun 12, 2020 04:38
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I'm getting ready to dip my toes into the waters(hur hur) of hydroponics. Is there a recommended TDS/EC/PH meter folks like? I usually overbuy when hopping into new hobbies so I'm trying to be price conscious, but I also can recognize the pain in the rear end poo poo equipment becomes
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Jun 26, 2020 03:33
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golden harvest tomatoes, day 52
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Jun 27, 2020 20:40
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Zachack posted:I've brushed my flowers so hopefully it will produce, thanks for the link. I found a couple new tomatoes starting when I went flower hunting so at least it's not all stalled out. i got lazy after like a week cuz there's way too many flowers to do this daily anymore and just put a fan on it since its indoors, seems like they pollinate fine. it's not wind or bees but it's looking like the yield is still decent for 3 plants so yah. don't go nuts when it becomes way more of a pain in the rear end with all the buds also re pruning: it's up to you, you can just let it be with a lot of cherry tomatoes apparently if you have the space and they are indeterminate or you can go to town pruning the thing cuz the leaves are fairly useless in terms of why you have the plant. i've been doing it every 1-2 weeks, starting with any bottom leaves/nodes, side offshoots and then heavy growth in the middle that would block light out/make airflow more annoying. chopping up to a 1/3rd of the plant down doesnt stress em enough to kill em, and right now i'm encouraging the plants to grow up into the light source since i still have head room to raise the thing..eventually i'll top them, not sure on the determinate height tbh and let them become bushier instead.... the shape of the fruit is throwing me off as to what this golden harvest will end up looking like. i was under the impression it'd be oblong style but they are coming in like tiny romas/beefsteaks...no clue. if they turn red then i don't have what i think i do..mystery also this strain apparently has a stockier stem so it needs support less often, i guess I'll see when they start reaching full height for my system but so far they seem solid and thicc and aren't bowing from any vines or anything. if they tatse good these might just be what a stay with for as long as i can keep them going rather then switching to something else next "season" zer0spunk fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jun 27, 2020 |
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Jun 27, 2020 20:44
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 checking daily to see if it's ripe at this point to take some weight off the plants..first time doing this but from what i'm told when they are full ripe they easily fall off the vine..maybe by day 80
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Jul 18, 2020 22:11
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I've found that my brown sugar tomatoes are ready when I can give them a very soft tug and they just pop off. The cherokee purples I've cut off, although I'm going to see how far they can get before I get nervous and clip. Also either the electric toothbrush method worked or the 1-2 bees I've seen are super active. Lots of tomatoes (I've given up on pruning), eggplants are coming in ok too. I've had a little blossom end rot, but I've been very lazy about pH balancing and was inconsistent with nutrient scheduling in the beginning.
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Jul 19, 2020 06:26
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Duck and Cover posted:Guess I should deal with calibrating my ph meter. Rut roh that's too high. Hi thread. I'd like to bring this post back up from page 1. I bought a brand new Bluelab Guardian Monitor on Saturday and last night I set it up and calibrated the whole thing and put it into my Aeroponics tub and seemed to be working fine as of last night. This morning I had to disconnect the unit from the wall to move around some power plugs, it was disconnected for perhaps 10 seconds or so. The pH probe was kept in the water and hasn't dried out or anything as stipulated in the manual. I am growing a single plant in food-grade black tubs in a basket of clay balls (that were rinsed before use) in an aeroponic mixture of a basic H&G pre-veg solution at an EC of 1.4. There is a heating element in the water keeping my water about 22ºc, the heating element is also pretty close to the probe but doubt it's hot enough to cause problems The probe is pretty close (within a few cm) of my airstone and I'm not sure if this is going to be disturbing my pH reading... The pH level was sitting ideal last night about 6.0 give or take a couple of points. But tonight when I came home it had crept up to about 6.7 so I added some pH Down solution to bring it down to 5.8 and within 10 minutes it's crept back up again to 6.5 and I'm tipping it will be up in the high 6's when i wake up tomorrow. From what I'm reading around it's safe to assume the pH probe is giving me bung readings and probably needs to be calibrrated again.I disposed of the pH calibrated fluid sachet's as I assumed they were single use and likely contaminated after the initial calibration and I've ordered 250mL bottles of calibration fluid from the internets that should be here in a week or two I guess. I suppose in the meantime I should go and get some litmus paper or something and manually check my pH balance and adjust accordingly rather than dump more and more pH down into my res and risk loving up my plant. Anyway, is this fault a big problem or does it simply require sporadic calibration? I suppose I don't mind calibrating every once in a while but if it's going to be a daily thing then I might consider a replacement seeing as the pH probe is a fair chunk of the reason for investing in the unit in the first place. I've been reading around a lot of mixed reviews, some people love the Guardian unit, others are pretty 'meh' about it and others seem very disappointed but there doesn't seem to be much weight in opinions either way. Can anybody help or give me some guidance to how to handle this? Did my unplugging it for 10 or so seconds gently caress up the pH calibration or is the chance of the unit being faulty pretty big? Edit: on reflection there's a small chance I might have touched the probe with my hand when pulling out my feed pump so I may have compromised it by that. I will go to the shop in the morning and grab some litmus paper as a secondary reference and hopefully they stock calibration fluid too. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Aug 24, 2020 |
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Aug 24, 2020 11:05
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Most pH probes prefer to be recalibrated on the regular. Even the ones that say they don’t should be. I don’t use one that sits and takes constant readings though, but I’d think there would be a recommendation for scheduled recalibration by the manufacturer. Maybe try to figure out your own schedule for it, but if it’s intended for constant readings, I’d start at once a week and adjust to see if I could tell when the drift starts to happen.
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Aug 24, 2020 18:24
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I don't think those Bluelabs lose accuracy enough to justify once a week re-calibration. I forget what the manual says it might be once a month.
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Aug 24, 2020 19:15
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Yeah the manual says monthly, a friend of mine said after a while the probe needed weekly calibration. Re-calibration after one day of use seems not rigjt, though. The warranty for the probe is 6 months as opposed to the rest of the unit which is 2yrs Edit: managed to get a dripper pH test kit and calibration fluid this morning. Nothing wrong with the probe, now to figurw out whats causing the pH to creep so rapidly. Was up to 7.7 this morning. Maybe it's the clayballs? Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Aug 25, 2020 |
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Aug 24, 2020 22:33
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Crossposting here which I hope is OK. My one seedling has some dark red/brown buildup on its roots. Any tips for correcting this? Need I worry? My other plants in the same tent don't have this issue.  
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Aug 27, 2020 18:48
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Sludge Tank posted:Yeah the manual says monthly, a friend of mine said after a while the probe needed weekly calibration. Re-calibration after one day of use seems not rigjt, though. The warranty for the probe is 6 months as opposed to the rest of the unit which is 2yrs Did you rinse the clayballs before using them in your system? The clayballs themselves should be ph neutral. willroc7 posted:Crossposting here which I hope is OK. Root rot maybe? Time to get a noisy air pump and use airstones. https://www.saferbrand.com/articles...%20oxygenation. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 04:08
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Duck and Cover posted:Did you rinse the clayballs before using them in your system? The clayballs themselves should be ph neutral. Ok yeah I got some bad advice from the shop guy and he said to just run my normal nute regime, which consisted of heaps of kelp extracts, molases, amimos, silica etc and my whole system got gunked up, blocked and clogged on top of the pH problem I bought a PerfectpH inline edition and ive pulled apart the whole system to clean and rebuild.and try again with just Canna and DripClean. Ugh. Should have gone with my initial plan which was to run Mills.
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Aug 28, 2020 06:17
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Does anybody use a water sensor on the floor to detect leaks etc
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Sep 1, 2020 03:37
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I just found a whole bunch of little ants crawling all over my poblano pepper DWC setup in my basement. What's the best way to tackle this?
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Sep 20, 2020 16:27
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willroc7 posted:I just found a whole bunch of little ants crawling all over my poblano pepper DWC setup in my basement. What's the best way to tackle this? I mix Borax and powdered sugar at a 1:3 ratio and then put it in bottle caps where they're coming from. They'll take the borax back with the sugar and the colony will kill itself. They're probably trying to farm aphids though, so you'll want to wash your plant and give it a round of neem oil while the lights are off.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:31
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Jhet posted:I mix Borax and powdered sugar at a 1:3 ratio and then put it in bottle caps where they're coming from. They'll take the borax back with the sugar and the colony will kill itself. They're probably trying to farm aphids though, so you'll want to wash your plant and give it a round of neem oil while the lights are off. I just put out a Terro ant bait that I had laying around. Will that help my situation at all? Will I be able to see aphids? I took a close look under a bunch of leaves and I only see the ants.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:50
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willroc7 posted:I just put out a Terro ant bait that I had laying around. Will that help my situation at all? Will I be able to see aphids? I took a close look under a bunch of leaves and I only see the ants. Yes the product designed to kill ants will in fact kill ants. I think it works similarly to the borax/sugar suggested earlier. You can also get yellow sticky traps for small flying insects (don't know if they work well with aphids but they seem to be marketed for it.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:02
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You’ll see little bumps on the underside of the leaves, and that’s your chance to clear it before they start hatching. Even if you can’t see any I would still spray with the neem oil. Aphids can quickly take over and then you’re tearing plants out and deep cleaning everything. The ant traps are similar in that they use an acid mixed with sugar water I think, but I don’t use them because I can never see when they’re empty. Then if you can find where the ants are coming into the space and close it, that can help for next time.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:05
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Duck and Cover posted:Yes the product designed to kill ants will in fact kill ants. I think it works similarly to the borax/sugar suggested earlier. You can also get yellow sticky traps for small flying insects (don't know if they work well with aphids but they seem to be marketed for it. I meant more that if aphids are the root problem, will a trap for ants help at all.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:05
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Jhet posted:You’ll see little bumps on the underside of the leaves, and that’s your chance to clear it before they start hatching. Even if you can’t see any I would still spray with the neem oil. Aphids can quickly take over and then you’re tearing plants out and deep cleaning everything. Ok thanks I’ll get my hands on some neem oil.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:06
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willroc7 posted:I meant more that if aphids are the root problem, will a trap for ants help at all. Ah that makes more sense. I don't know.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:09
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Does neem have to be bought in its undiluted form to work? I heard that whatever process a lot of these companies use to prepare and emulsify it actually strips out a lot of the relevant pesticidal chemicals.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:10
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willroc7 posted:I meant more that if aphids are the root problem, will a trap for ants help at all. Ants move the aphids to the leaves so they can take the sugar from the plant as it gets eaten by the aphids. It’s all one big problem. I do buy undiluted, and then dilute it with an insecticidal soap and water in a spray bottle.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:23
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Jhet posted:Ants move the aphids to the leaves so they can take the sugar from the plant as it gets eaten by the aphids. It’s all one big problem. What soap and is it necessary? I just ordered some neem concentrate.
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Sep 20, 2020 18:27
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willroc7 posted:What soap and is it necessary? I just ordered some neem concentrate. I have Safer Brand 5118 Insect Killing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192AO90?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Have you ever tried mixing oil and water before? I swear it’s even worse with neem concentrate. You definitely need soap to mix.
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Sep 20, 2020 20:48
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Jhet posted:I have Safer Brand 5118 Insect Killing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192AO90?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Thanks for the tips. I’ll see how the ant traps do for a few days and go from there. I carefully inspected all the leaves they were near and saw no signs of aphids, although I suppose that doesn’t mean they aren’t there.
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Sep 20, 2020 23:44
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Hello herbalists! DIY Secret Santa signups are open! Please do not send weed to your santees (unsolicited) https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Sep 22, 2020 19:32
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Hello DIYers! We have a new forum/mod feedback thread and would love to hear your thoughts! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944213 Get ready to read this message 15 more times in every thread you read! Edit to fix link. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 01:36
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I’m looking to start out and curious about what containers people use and why. I’m leaning towards food-safe buckets (3.5 or 5 gal) but I can’t find any good info on the internet as everything is either Dreaded Toxins or “I eat stuff grown in an old tote and it hasn’t killed me yet.” I’m planning on a DWC or maybe eventually ebb-and-flow. Starting with greens and then probably dabbling with peppers.
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Nov 9, 2020 01:22
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Gaukler posted:I’m looking to start out and curious about what containers people use and why. I’m leaning towards food-safe buckets (3.5 or 5 gal) but I can’t find any good info on the internet as everything is either Dreaded Toxins or “I eat stuff grown in an old tote and it hasn’t killed me yet.” I’m planning on a DWC or maybe eventually ebb-and-flow. Starting with greens and then probably dabbling with peppers. Food safe buckets are easy enough to find and make me feel better even if I'm not sure it really matters. Black ones ideally to combat algae but those are difficult to find and like the only place that I found that wasn't dumb expensive was ULINE (owner supports/supported Trump though). There's stuff like https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-GCSB-Hydroponic-Salad-Garden/dp/B01MS6U1UF which you could try. I have one that's been gathering dust because I'm lazy as gently caress. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Nov 9, 2020 01:45
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Duck and Cover posted:Food safe buckets are easy enough to find and make me feel better even if I'm not sure it really matters. Black ones ideally to combat algae but those are difficult to find and like the only place that I found that wasn't dumb expensive was ULINE (owner supports/supported Trump though). I’ll probably stick to food grade stuff. It’s frustrating as there’s either no info or contradictory info on plastics and especially PVC, and there’s really no way to just avoid the whole mess and go plastic free.
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Nov 9, 2020 02:02
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