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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Would it be feasible to return your defective product you paid money for?

Failing that: the sole is probably cast iron. I have not tapped cast iron but I expect you can google that and it'd probably work if you can leave enough thickness in the metal to make it work, maybe.

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Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!

HolHorsejob posted:

The threaded rod for the knob on my new stanley no 5 is bent to poo poo and needs to be replaced.

Apparently it's some goofy specialty thread (12-20?). Would it be feasible to just drill out the threaded hole in the sole and retap it to a thread that isn't stupid so I can use standard hardware?

Return that poo poo, dawg. That's the only advantage you have buying new and you should use it.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Do they really still use #12-20 threads on new Stanleys? I had to look quite a bit to find a replacement for a missing handle toe screw on an antique #5. Until I find a kit with replacement parts, made by Stanley, that had a full set of both #12-20 and #12-24 parts. Anyhow, I'd return it and roll the dice on a new one, you'll probably end up spending far more time and effort fixing it up than it's worth.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Cannon_Fodder posted:

My lovely woodworking self is on month after month of putting off working on a project because I'm convinced I'm going to gently caress it up horribly.

Very frustrating.

I'm committing to spending all morning tomorrow doing it right and the thought gives me anxiety.

Same. Piece of advice: if you find yourself getting frustrated or upset, or in a rush, just stop. Sit on your workbench and breathe. Don't do anything until you feel better.


Especially don't use chisels. Ask me how I know. I got lucky and didn't have to get stitches or worse.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Uncle Enzo posted:

Same. Piece of advice: if you find yourself getting frustrated or upset, or in a rush, just stop. Sit on your workbench and breathe. Don't do anything until you feel better.


Especially don't use chisels. Ask me how I know. I got lucky and didn't have to get stitches or worse.

Thanks. I am terrified of slicing myself open so I'm very intentional with chisels. I get enough cuts on my hands from the surprisingly sharp sides and back while chopping.

I don't sit with the discomfort and walk through it in the shop, which would be very helpful. Instead I wander upstairs and end up avoiding progress. I just checked and I've been sitting on this project since buying the wood Sept of last year.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


One q about making a table from a butcher block. Do I need to sand it or anything? e.g. blunt the corners? I really don't wanna accidentally cut myself on my own coffee table :v:

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Thanks. I am terrified of slicing myself open so I'm very intentional with chisels. I get enough cuts on my hands from the surprisingly sharp sides and back while chopping.

I don't sit with the discomfort and walk through it in the shop, which would be very helpful. Instead I wander upstairs and end up avoiding progress. I just checked and I've been sitting on this project since buying the wood Sept of last year.

I did that with a coffee table. It took forever and then I was always feeling terrible about it never getting done. So finally I made myself commit to getting one thing done on the project at a time. So one mortise cut. One tenon cut. One fix to a mortise. One clean up when they don’t fit. Sure, it still took a couple weeks more than it should, but once I started and committed to just getting one thing done with no pressure to get it all done it started making progress and now we have our new coffee table.

It was designed to fit in a completely different space of course, and now we need something for another room, but it got done and still feels great.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
Soon*

I gave myself a winning chance by getting into the shop the night before I was going to make the cuts and setting up my measuring stuff, as well as sharpening all the required chisels by hand. It's got to be some confidence built around habit.

Thank you everyone for the feedback.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Pollyanna posted:

One q about making a table from a butcher block. Do I need to sand it or anything? e.g. blunt the corners? I really don't wanna accidentally cut myself on my own coffee table :v:

I just made a tabletop and I sanded down the edges to round it over. After I did that it really came together. You could also use a plane or a router with a round over bit.

You'd probably want to sand the top to smooth it out as well

Also, had you considered hairpin legs? Those might work

If you're still in Boston area and need any help/tools let me know

The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Oct 31, 2021

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Calidus posted:

I am considering trimming an oak cabinet to make a new fridge fit. I have a local guy who can make me new doors and color match at reasonable price.

1. Remove doors
2. Measure
3. Clamp a straight edge to the cabinet
4. Measure again
5. Remove/cut bottom rail
6. Cut Center Stile
6. Remove bottom/shelf (I see this potentially being a pita)
7. Raise (maybe replace) Bottom/shelf
8. Trim stiles
9. Figure out how of the original material I can reuse and cut replacement pieces
10. Put back together

This is a reasonable thing to attempt right?

A drawing instead of this list would be much more informative.


Pollyanna posted:

One q about making a table from a butcher block. Do I need to sand it or anything? e.g. blunt the corners? I really don't wanna accidentally cut myself on my own coffee table :v:

Yeah you really should with coffee tables. Even if you don't have kids, rounding edges and corners is proactive smart.

nosleep
Jan 20, 2004

Let the liquor do the thinkin'

nosleep posted:

Kind of an odd question about filling gaps. My very imperfect hand cut box joints for my salt box obviously resulted in several gaps. I filled them from the outside with shavings from my offcuts and it's satisfactory enough for me, but there are plenty of visible gaps from the inside. This doesn't matter at all aesthetically, but I'd like to see if I can fill them with something so salt crystals don't get stuck in them or maybe even make their way outside of the box.

Is there any kind of food safe silicone that I could squirt in there with a needle small syringe or applicator? I suppose I could just put wood glue in them, but I'd like to be able to find a way to get something right in there. I do have some needle syringes I have for oiling things. Any suggestions?

Deteriorata posted:

Epoxy is good for gap-filling. It dries clear and is almost invisible in most cases. It's also easy to sand and takes finish well.

I was actually going to do this and grabbed some 5 minute epoxy, but I'm concerned now that it might leak out to the outside, and don't want to chance it even with tape. I have a couple pieces of popsicle stick that I split apart and if I glue them in the back corners, they'll fully cover the gaps so salt can't get out. My question now is what adhesive can I use to attach them? The wood is already finished with general finishes wood bowl finish which is oil based and I'm not finding clear answers on what will stick to it. Should I use epoxy, CA glue, hide glue?

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


Does anyone have experience with making a wood bezel for a CRT monitor? I've been thinking about it for a project I'm working on and I'm feeling like it's a much better idea to just ask than it would be to try to do it myself and end up just being angry at wood.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Mr. Mambold posted:

A drawing instead of this list would be much more informative.

Couple more experienced guys said they wouldn’t touch the project so yea this idea is DOA.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

I started cutting the wood I have down, and made panels for 4+ salt cellars.

Now I have to make a box joint jig for my router table.

I'm looking at branching out into making boutique products, so this would be a good start. Walnut and spalted maple. The walnut will be beeswaxed and the maple will be polyurethaned.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Calidus posted:

Couple more experienced guys said they wouldn’t touch the project so yea this idea is DOA.

I've done it, but that was what I did for a living. A lot depends on if the cabinets are built-in or modular- which most are anymore. But, if you say DOA, fine.

GWBBQ posted:

Does anyone have experience with making a wood bezel for a CRT monitor? I've been thinking about it for a project I'm working on and I'm feeling like it's a much better idea to just ask than it would be to try to do it myself and end up just being angry at wood.


Maybe some glue-on veneer and a razor knife?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Got my LA jack from the Veritas seconds sale and dang if that thing isn't great right out of the box. I really, really need to finish my workbench and put a proper vise on it.

good jovi
Dec 11, 2000

'm pro-dickgirl, and I VOTE!

more falafel please posted:

Got my LA jack from the Veritas seconds sale and dang if that thing isn't great right out of the box. I really, really need to finish my workbench and put a proper vise on it.

Yeah, that is an amazing plane. It was my first, and everything I’ve bought since has been because I just wanted it, never because I needed it.

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


Mr. Mambold posted:

I've done it, but that was what I did for a living. A lot depends on if the cabinets are built-in or modular- which most are anymore. But, if you say DOA, fine.

Maybe some glue-on veneer and a razor knife?
That's pretty much what I was thinking. I think I might get experimental and try to do a 3D scan of the screen with registration marks painted on plastic wrap stuck to the screen and see how well a desktop CNC machine can make it fit, but I think veneer and a knife is most likely what I'll end up doing.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
More questionable cabinet choices. I need to trim 5/16 off the bottom lip of this oak cabinet (to fit a new fridge). I can’t remove the cabinet from the wall. Looking at quality of the existing cut I am pretty sure the previous home owner did the the same thing. The corners aren’t square and it looks like someone used a sawzall.

What the least dumb way to do this?
- circular saw seems like bad choice due to its size and weight
- jig saw and straight edge guide seem reasonable
- multiple passes with my trim router and a straight cut bit?
- A non-poo poo hand saw has also been recommended

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Calidus posted:

More questionable cabinet choices. I need to trim 5/16 off the bottom lip of this oak cabinet (to fit a new fridge). I can’t remove the cabinet from the wall. Looking at quality of the existing cut I am pretty sure the previous home owner did the the same thing. The corners aren’t square and it looks like someone used a sawzall.

What the least dumb way to do this?
- circular saw seems like bad choice due to its size and weight
- jig saw and straight edge guide seem reasonable
- multiple passes with my trim router and a straight cut bit?
- A non-poo poo hand saw has also been recommended


The jig saw with a fence seems like the way to go. No one's ever going to see it so it will do the job well enough.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


The Slack Lagoon posted:

I just made a tabletop and I sanded down the edges to round it over. After I did that it really came together. You could also use a plane or a router with a round over bit.

You'd probably want to sand the top to smooth it out as well

Also, had you considered hairpin legs? Those might work

If you're still in Boston area and need any help/tools let me know

Mr. Mambold posted:

Yeah you really should with coffee tables. Even if you don't have kids, rounding edges and corners is proactive smart.

Good to know re: sanding. Biggest issue with that (and I guess with the oiling too) is that I live in a 1br with no garage or related tools, so I'm gonna have to make do with some sandpaper and my rug vacuum I guess :gonk: one of the reasons I just want a basic oil finish instead of going full air-choking PUR although I might just take you up on that offer for help :v:

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Nov 3, 2021

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Just Winging It posted:

Do they really still use #12-20 threads on new Stanleys? I had to look quite a bit to find a replacement for a missing handle toe screw on an antique #5. Until I find a kit with replacement parts, made by Stanley, that had a full set of both #12-20 and #12-24 parts. Anyhow, I'd return it and roll the dice on a new one, you'll probably end up spending far more time and effort fixing it up than it's worth.

I'm going to look into it this weekend and see if there are any other issues with it. If a busted fastener is the worst of it, I'd rather not deal with the hassle only to make another dice roll.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
Thought I'd update the thread from my post 6 or so months ago when it was just a bulky hand chopped frame -



Nearly finished now. It's currently used as a motorcycle workshop but I think I want to go back to making furniture in it. Just need power and dust extraction.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Shelvocke posted:

Thought I'd update the thread from my post 6 or so months ago when it was just a bulky hand chopped frame -



Nearly finished now. It's currently used as a motorcycle workshop but I think I want to go back to making furniture in it. Just need power and dust extraction.

looks sharp, but why such a shallow pitched roof?

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
Building regs in the UK. No planning needed for a building under 2.5m high and 15m³. Shallow pitch means more headroom inside after losing height insulation/flooring.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I'm playing the avoidance game on the Anarchist's Workbench because I've been nervous about deciding a final height. I'm thinking 32 inches total height, with the stretchers 5 inches off of the ground, when my pinky knuckle is (as per the book's suggestion) 30" off the ground.

Thoughts on this? I'm going to finish prepping my stock for the stretchers and legs this afternoon, I think.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Easier to shorten it later than to tallen it

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

CommonShore posted:

I'm playing the avoidance game on the Anarchist's Workbench because I've been nervous about deciding a final height. I'm thinking 32 inches total height, with the stretchers 5 inches off of the ground, when my pinky knuckle is (as per the book's suggestion) 30" off the ground.

Thoughts on this? I'm going to finish prepping my stock for the stretchers and legs this afternoon, I think.

Within a few inches, exact height doesn't matter that much. Get it approximately in the proper ergonomic area and you'll generally adapt to it. The "acceptable height" curve is pretty broad.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Bloody posted:

Easier to shorten it later than to tallen it

that's why God made cinderblocks

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I've found a machinist that can adapt some cheaper parts for the Soviet lathe which I'm very pleased about. Its never going to be anything but a pen lathe at best but my wife remembers the things her grandfather made for her with his tools so fondly I was loath to chuck it in the bin. If I fall in love with wood turning I may replace it in the future but for now it will make some christmas gifts for her family.

Also if anything else the base extension is the perfect height to be a support on the mitre saw so theres an extra bonus.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012



My parents left this gorgeous dining table in their barn through a wet Massachusetts summer and now it's covered in this stuff. Is it mold / is the table permafucked? (Note the Stendig chairs, which luckily don't seem to have any mold on them and which I am taking out of there asap.)

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I can't really tell but I think it's a fungus more than mold.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:



My parents left this gorgeous dining table in their barn through a wet Massachusetts summer and now it's covered in this stuff. Is it mold / is the table permafucked? (Note the Stendig chairs, which luckily don't seem to have any mold on them and which I am taking out of there asap.)

Maybe, but nothing so bad that a good cleaning won’t take care of it. After you get it cleaned up you’ll be able to see better if it just needs some TLC or a refinishing. My guess is some TLC for sure, it doesn’t look too bad otherwise.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

serious gaylord posted:

I can't really tell but I think it's a fungus more than mold.

Mold is a fungus.

e: Clean it with vinegar first, then escalate if that doesn't work.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

What are my options here? Murphy's? Naptha? Void scream?

I ate at that table for two decades and I'd be pretty crushed if its perma-fungused.

e: Thanks for the replies, failed to refresh. I'll try vinegar first. I'm just afraid of bringing it inside and it making everyone sick after eating on it.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Nov 2, 2021

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

What are my options here? Murphy's? Naptha? Void scream?

I ate at that table for two decades and I'd be pretty crushed if its perma-fungused.

e: Thanks for the replies, failed to refresh. I'll try vinegar first. I'm just afraid of bringing it inside and it making everyone sick after eating on it.
I would dilute the vinegar in water a decent bit. Murphy's is good too. It will probably come off with just a damp rag. Unless it got really rained on multiple times, I doubt whatever it is has gone through the finish. If you need to refinish, naptha is good, but it doesn't look that bad to me, probably just a good clean and some wax is all it needs.

E: tbh it kind of just looks like dust and spider poo?

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

What are my options here? Murphy's? Naptha? Void scream?

I ate at that table for two decades and I'd be pretty crushed if its perma-fungused.

e: Thanks for the replies, failed to refresh. I'll try vinegar first. I'm just afraid of bringing it inside and it making everyone sick after eating on it.

As long as you clean it first (and don't eat directly on the table anyway), then you'll be fine. I hate to burst people's bubbles about the world we live in, but your house is already full of spores and bacteria. Most of it is incredibly harmless and you should just clean things.

Also, dilute the vinegar, don't just dump vinegar directly on the surface. 6:1 water:vinegar should be more than plenty, but start with soap and water.

It's a great looking table.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:



My parents left this gorgeous dining table in their barn through a wet Massachusetts summer and now it's covered in this stuff. Is it mold / is the table permafucked? (Note the Stendig chairs, which luckily don't seem to have any mold on them and which I am taking out of there asap.)

If you have plaster basement ceilings it's from the ceiling

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


The Slack Lagoon posted:

If you have plaster basement ceilings it's from the ceiling

Likely this yeah.

If it is mold it's probably not a huge issue yet, rub with like 10% vinegar in water, then rub 5 minutes after with a lot of just water / wet cloth then dry off with a soft cloth right after.

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


CommonShore posted:

I'm playing the avoidance game on the Anarchist's Workbench because I've been nervous about deciding a final height. I'm thinking 32 inches total height, with the stretchers 5 inches off of the ground, when my pinky knuckle is (as per the book's suggestion) 30" off the ground.

Thoughts on this? I'm going to finish prepping my stock for the stretchers and legs this afternoon, I think.
My workbench is 32.5” high and I’m 5’10-5’11 in work boots. I find that’s a perfect height for hand tool work, but a little low for sanding and some power tool stuff, and I’ll probably make my next one a little higher. If you have chonky legs it’s pretty easy to screw pieces of plywood or 2x on the bottom to raise the height. My stretchers are 3.5” off the ground and my boots fit under them them fine, and conveniently my pallet jack also will fit under there. It’s a bit of a pain to sweep/vacuum under, but I don’t have a tray between the stretchers so it’s not bad. I definitely wouldn’t go any lower.

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