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Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

Hancock Fabrics is going out of business and is currently selling everything for 20% - 50% off! I'm guessing the sales might get more intense as they get more desperate to empty the stores. Most of the patterns are currently 50% off!

Trying to not completely ruin my hobby budget...

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Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

Goldaline posted:

I can't stop making Jojo costumes, the designs are just so stupid and always present some new challenge to overcome. This time around I decide to make this waffle shirt:
(...)
I did post these in the cosplay thread, so I hope it's OK to cross post, they do seem more into the prop/armor side of things there, and I thought the sewing process on this was sort of interesting.

I've been seeing your posts in this thread and the cosplay thread and I'm continually blown away by your skill and patience! And I completely support your addiction to making JoJo costumes. There's SO MANY and it's cool seeing someone with lots of sewing experience and know-how try to tackle Araki's designs; as ludicrous as they are he seems to be inspired by real fashion. I've been hacking away at some attempts at historical sewing (I feel like I'll never finish sewing the foundations...) which I guess I'll post there when I have stuff worth showing? But I've been learning there's so much more to fabric choice and fit and god knows what else to interpreting a drawing to real human cloths than I ever imagined and it's cool seeing cosplay from that approach.

I've been teaching myself how to sew over the past 2 years and need to take some pictures of the clothes I've made... I'm painfully slow though (and somehow still don't have a full length mirror). I'll try to take pics this weekend?

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

big black turnout posted:

Are the links in the decade old op still the best places to find stuff? I picked up a sewing machine a couple years ago and just opened the box today. I'm kind of in love already and all I've been doing is learning how to sew straight, but I'm looking for where to go from there.

edit: also are there any better places to find men's patterns these days?

Is there anything in particular you're looking for? Here's some inexpensive (aka my favorite) sites for apparel fabric:

CaliFabrics. I've actually ordered from these guys and was pleased!
Fabric.com. I've ordered from them and had a good experience, but I've heard they can be inconsistent and check your yardage when you receive it.
Fashion Fabric Club . Haven't tried them yet.
Denver Fabrics. Also haven't tried them yet.

I could go on with fabric suppliers but if you want something specific like lets say...

Dharma Trading. Tons of fabric for dying (so all natural fibers), they sell dye here too. Now that they have handkerchief linen back in I'll be ordering from them pretty soon.
Organic Cotton Plus. Exactly what it says. I have ordered cotton ribbon from them and it went smoothly! I know someone else who's ordered cotton sheeting and batiste from them and they enjoyed their experience.

Unfortunately I don't know much about men's sewing! Have you checked out Male Pattern Boldness? He has some sew alongs for pants and a shirt, and he updates pretty regularly. I've learned a lot from following sewing blogs and fortunately they all tend to link to eachother (he links to some other men's blogs further down on the right side of his page). PatternReview.com is still pretty great, and I've found good info on their forums before. I use Youtube for help with specific things (like installing invisible zippers). This book has been a great resource for me (lots and lots of great diagrams for every little thing), and I recently bought this to help me with learn how to deal with different kinds of fabrics.

Goldaline posted:

Awesome JoJo stuff
Hell YES.

Crocobile fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Sep 6, 2016

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

Colonial Air Force posted:

Sewing this coat, the instructions say to press the seams towards the back (rather than open, I think). It creates an overlap, which might be fine , except along the hem edge where it looks odd to me.

It's possible this is okay, I've just never seen it before. I could also get creative with trimming and make it fit, but I want to check with you experts first.

Oh cool, 18th century! I don't know much about 18th century men's clothing construction but I found someone's blog post on the same pattern. I've followed patterns that instructed me to press the seams towards the back before; I usually press the seams flat, open, and then back.

I don't know if that helps, but good luck with all that hand sewing! IDK if you've gotten to the buttonholes yet but here's a great tutorial on hand-worked buttonholes. There's also this more abbreviated version, which I use but my results aren't even half as pretty as the beautifully tailored ones from Williams Clothiers.

Crocobile fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Sep 8, 2016

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

“Reader’s Digest: Complete Guide to Sewing” is a good resource book. The older editions have simple sewing projects in the back.

I’d just practice stitching on some scrap fabric and then make something quick and simple (pillow, hem curtains, etc). If that goes well make whatever you feel motivated to make. If you’re making clothes maybe start with elastic or a loose-fit. Patterns will have recommended fabrics/notions/etc on the back. You might be able to find “sew-alongs” on youtube that will go through techniques & materials.

Quilting cottons (and cottons in general) are good fabrics to start with. It’s way too easy to hoard fabric though hahaha

I have a “heavy duty” Singer from Joanns that’s totally fine.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

That’s awesome! I have a big ol’ bag of stuff I’ve told myself I’ll repurpose. Quilting cottons and muslins have gone to my “mask” pile, teeny tiny scraps are for stuffing plushes and I made a TON of T-shirt yarn to make a braided rug.

I’ve seen braided scrap rugs made out of pretty much anything. Some people stitch them by hand and others stitch them by machine. Only advice I have so far is to sew it on a flat surface and go loose on the curves. I’m going to back mine with flannel because the shirts I’m using are pretty thin.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

For garment sewing you only really need a straight stitch (which you’ll get on any machine) and maybe a zig zag (for seam finishing). New machines have a billion fancy decorative stitches you’ll never use.

Home machines with a zig-zag aren’t introduced until the 50s or so. Before then people used pinking shears or other methods of seam finishing (French seams, flat-felled seams, Hong Kong finish/rayon seam binding, or whip-stitching the seams by hand, etc).

That’s the only thing I can think of that you’ll miss on older electric machines... Any old machine you’ll get you’ll need to have serviced. I wouldn’t spend a ton of money unless you can get a guarantee that it’s operating. Servicing by itself will run you $100+.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

cloudy posted:

What's everyone's favorite online retailers for fabric? I am having a really hard time finding anything I like... Specifically I guess I am looking for linen or rayon/linen. But I guess I'm just more interested in hearing about peoples favorite places to look for fabric in general!

Also, shot in the dark, but if you're in/around Chicago, favorite physical stores for fabric?

Stone Mountain & Daughters has really nice apparel-weight linens and stuff. Unfortunately pretty pricey.
https://stonemountainfabric.com

Harts Fabric also has nice linen and tencel/viscose/rayon. A little cheaper than Stone Mountain but still not cheap.
https://hartsfabric.com

If you ever visit Los Angeles, Carmel Fabric in the fabric district is amazing and they specialize in silk and linen. I’ve gotten the nicest silk charmeuse there for $9/yard, it’s nuts. I want to go back and stock up before they retire!!

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

Blaziken386 posted:

Hello sewing thread i have a question for you

because its halloween in a week i had a sudden and intense desire to make a marisa kirisame outfit

however!!

while looking for patterns, I realised I don't know what the black part of her top would be called, and as such am having problems figuring out how to make it

it's like. Not quite a vest but not quite a camisole? Is there a secret third thing??

I'm having similar problems trying to describe the collar. It's not really a turtleneck, but its also not not that. I feel like my (nearly nonexistent) sewing skills are probably not up to the task of creating a shirt like that so I may just try and buy something similar, but I still don't know what to call it

If anyone can point me in the right place re: terminology, that would be helpful

Idk I feel like if you can find a turtleneck blouse (not sweater) you’d get pretty close.

As for the other thing…ahhhh like a square-neck woven crop-top??? Thick strap square-neck crop-top? I feel like those are giving me similarish GIS results.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

Edgar Allan Pwned posted:

why do patterns only go to size 14 but the envelopes go up to 22? am i just supposed to make the patterns larger? is this what "adjusting" means?

What’s the pattern? A lot of patterns with wide sizing split up the size ranges. So one envelope might have sizes 6-14 and another 16-22. It should say on the front of the envelope what’s included (if you’re looking at something from a big pattern company). It’s especially annoying when you’re between the middle sizes lol

Resizing patterns, especially more than a couple sizes, is a whole thing on it’s own.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

If you’re talking about a Simplicity/Butterick/McCall/Vogue pattern, I’d just wait for the brand’s pattern sale at JoAnns. That’s probably the cheapest option.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

The most heavy duty thing I’ve sewn is thin leather so I’m just making some guesses here but:

1. For hand-sewing there are carpet and upholstery needles you can buy. Some of them are curved, which could be useful?

2. I imagine you’d need upholstery thread, or something similarly heavy-duty.

3. Are you lining it?

4. Something like cotton canvas, duck or cork fabric should work well for the gusset.

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

I wonder how much of that’s because, until relatively recently (last 100 years?), fabric was very expensive and it’s way better that the thread break under stress then the actual fabric. Though even with the cheapness of modern fabric it’s much easier to re-sew a seam than deal with a tear in the fabric.

You could try flat-felled seams if you want something more durable. It’s what’s used for jeans and other more heavy-duty applications.

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Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

What a beaut! Definitely get it serviced. I have an early zig-zag (1950s) Kenmore (I think it’s technically a Pfaff? I have the info somewhere or another) and I need to take it back in because the zig-zag/side-to-side tension is kinda hosed.

The cord should be easy to replace if there’s any problems. Maybe look into getting a button-hole attachment/tool if you need one? Does that machine do anything beyond straight stitch? Some old machines have “cams” you insert for different stitches.

I haven’t used my old machine in a while so trying to remember… the nice thing is, if you don’t have the instructions you can find PDFs (or buy them) of the original instructions online. It’s helpful for figuring out what the feet are for, or how exactly to thread it etc.

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