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Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Deadite posted:


I have a plan for an animated sign but I have no idea how to do animation. I these 4 channel 12 volt relays but I have no idea what to do with them. I just need the LED strips to blink in order.

https://kno.wled.ge/

WLED is worth a go. Great community, ZERO coding required. You get a cheap controller board that’s like a smaller arduino with wifi (esp8266 or esp32), install wled using your browser. Has built in animations and timers and all sorts. Really powerful and accessible.


Echoing everyone else those look amazing.

Edit: there are WLED controllers that use an esp32 and add fuses and screw terminals and whatnot making a $10 a $40 controller.
With such short runs of LEDs I would use a bare esp board and a 5v DC step down transformer if you need it.

Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Sep 21, 2023

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Megabound posted:

That's Merbau, local to me in Queensland and used a lot in decking

New to me, and similar to jatoba which is/was used for the same before it became less available. You lot have the strange combination of a ridiculous number of creatures that want to kill you and some of the finest exotic (to us in the N. Hemisphere) woods on the planet.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Saw it was going to be weirdly, stupidly, unseasonably hot this weekend, so I thought to myself, because I am an insane person, “what a great time to resurface the deck!”

Halfway through the project, I’ve discovered I need to fully replace one of the outboard joists, and good news, it’s the one the stairs are mounted to! This deck is ~9’ off the ground, so the stairs are not insignificant.

Brainstorming ways to do it in situ. I think it can be reasonably done with fairly minimal sketchiness but it will certainly delay things by a day, which means I won’t be finishing this weekend as I otherwise would have. Sigh.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
Megabound sparked a desire to do some photography, but I CBF tracking down a camera to learn and deal with focus and f stops and the like

So I did some googling and discovered pinhole cameras, which are simple enough for me to grok

So given I'm in a workshop two days a week and have access to the scrap bin, here is the progress so far




It also doubles as a finger box

Ziggy Smalls
May 24, 2008

If pain's what you
want in a man,
Pain I can do

Jestery posted:

Megabound sparked a desire to do some photography, but I CBF tracking down a camera to learn and deal with focus and f stops and the like

So I did some googling and discovered pinhole cameras, which are simple enough for me to grok

So given I'm in a workshop two days a week and have access to the scrap bin, here is the progress so far




It also doubles as a finger box


Just a heads up the laser cut wood edges will probably scratch the film emulsion.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape

Ziggy Smalls posted:

Just a heads up the laser cut wood edges will probably scratch the film emulsion.

Way ahead of you

The thickness of the felt I'm going to use as light seal/wipe is accounted for in the focal length
:science:

But thank you for the heads up, I'm sure there is heaps of poo poo I'm gunna mess up nonetheless

Ziggy Smalls
May 24, 2008

If pain's what you
want in a man,
Pain I can do

Jestery posted:

Way ahead of you

The thickness of the felt I'm going to use as light seal/wipe is accounted for in the focal length
:science:

But thank you for the heads up, I'm sure there is heaps of poo poo I'm gunna mess up nonetheless

I'm excited to see the finished camera!

You should post your resulting images in the photography subforum film thread. I'm sure they'd love to see them.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Crossposting from the Bass thread.

I got an Ampeg SVT 8x10 bass cabinet for a steal, but it was beat to poo poo.

Here's what it looked like when I got it:




I scraped all the tolex off and sanded the whole thing down.
There were a couple of nasty chunks taken out of the corners, so I used bondo to fill those in.

Then I painted it with Duratex


Put on new corner guards, reinstalled all the old hardware.
I did consider replacing the logo on the top right corner, but I kind of like that it's beat to poo poo, it's like the one scar it got to keep.

Now I have to feed it. I bought a 6 slot case off of my drummer, and picked up a demo SVT-7 pro from Sweetwater.


Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bad Munki posted:

Saw it was going to be weirdly, stupidly, unseasonably hot this weekend, so I thought to myself, because I am an insane person, “what a great time to resurface the deck!”

Halfway through the project, I’ve discovered I need to fully replace one of the outboard joists, and good news, it’s the one the stairs are mounted to! This deck is ~9’ off the ground, so the stairs are not insignificant.

Brainstorming ways to do it in situ. I think it can be reasonably done with fairly minimal sketchiness but it will certainly delay things by a day, which means I won’t be finishing this weekend as I otherwise would have. Sigh.

Sounds like you'll need to rig some scaffolding. Idk if just jacking that end up and using a ladder would really be prudent.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


TOO LATE

One of the stringers is actually bolted directly to the house, so I really just needed to bolster the other side a little to keep the strain off. Willfully disregarding workplace safety, I braced it with a stepladder and a car jack for the five minute swap. Not my proudest moment but aside from that one aspect, I proceeded with caution, and everything went swimmingly. That joist is now a double, and the stairs are braced to the joist with 4x4 posts well bolted in, rather than the scrap 2x6 and deck screws the previous, uhh, “builder” had applied. Yikes. It’s all stable as hell now, love it.

Here you can see how it was previously attached, and my brilliant OSHA violation:



Joist removed:



New joist(s) in, railing posts added, properly supporting the stringers:



From the top:



Still some metal brackets pending but they are lagged in with appropriately rated hardware, it’s not going anywhere and there is, for the first time, zero bounce in those steps.

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Oct 6, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Bad Munki posted:


Here you can see how it was previously attached, and my brilliant OSHA violation:



:jail: :mods:

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Hey, at least I put some blocking attached to the face of the stringers so that I wasn’t just bearing up on the underside of a tread?

Anyhow, if it’s stupid but it works, it’s still stupid, but it did work. :downs:

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Is it all held up on that top left side of the stairs there and the right side is just cantilevered off the left side mounting point(s)? Or is there right side support I'm not seeing in the picture?

Asking to learn, not as an attempted call-out of some kind.

edit:
Ok I think I figured it out here, the bottom left of this image extends to either the other side of your house or to a deck support that's out of frame? Sorry for the confusion here, I'm running on little sleep plus I'm dumb!

tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Oct 7, 2023

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Yeah, there’s a big beam at the left end of those joists in that pic you quoted, which is sitting on a series of 6x6 posts. The joists rest on the beam.

In other news, fuckin’ scope creep.







In that last pic, you can see the beam and a post. Well, sort of a beam. I am 99% sure that approach of bolting those 2x10s to the face of the post like that is no longer allowed, if it ever was.

What I’d like to do, though, is just nuke that “beam” altogether and replace it with an appropriately-sized gluelam sitting directly on top of the posts. By doing that, I’ll be able to remove the middle post of the three, this opening up the space directly in front of the patio door in a big way. Should be able to do that in-place, just jack that end of the deck up a quarter inch and set it on a temporary wall, remove the old assembly, cut the posts down, hoist the beam in, and set it all back down in place. That’ll probably be in the spring, though.

freelop
Apr 28, 2013

Where we're going, we won't need fries to see



Jestery posted:

It also doubles as a finger box


drat that's something I've not thought about in years

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.




Agreed. Is that a homebuilt ladder kit? Not the most optimal placement of a jack, I'd have put it on the ground and used some 4x4 post, but :shrug: Where'd you fill the last bit of decking you'd trimmed back?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


The decking? It’s all in the burn pile now.



I had previously just left some decking in place so I could work from the top more readily. But it’s all gone now, I’ve replaced 5 out of 13 joists and doubled up two of them in addition to that. Also, there was zero blocking before so it was wiggly wiggly wiggly.

That’s all fixed and it’s solid af now. Love it. Next up, butyl tape to prevent a repeat on those rotted joists, and then I’ll slap the decking down. Should be mostly done with that by sunset.

Leon Sumbitches
Mar 27, 2010

Dr. Leon Adoso Sumbitches (prounounced soom-'beh-cheh) (born January 21, 1935) is heir to the legendary Adoso family oil fortune.





I'm experimenting with building a fire pit and not using any mortar, any advice on how to proceed from here?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Bad Munki posted:

I had previously just left some decking in place so I could work from the top more readily. But it’s all gone now, I’ve replaced 5 out of 13 joists and doubled up two of them in addition to

I'm pretty sure the answer is "scope creep" but morbidly curious, once you replaced the first five, since you've got everything apart, why not shell out the $70-150 (I forgot what lumber costs today) and another two hours(?) for the other 8 joists? The wood looks pretty good but probably not going to get under the decking for another 15-20 years.

Is there any advantage to painting the top of the joists or is the moisture situation here such a slow creep it doesn't matter

Min/Max alarm blinking rapidly here in my head but I've never done any work like this

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Leon Sumbitches posted:

I'm experimenting with building a fire pit and not using any mortar, any advice on how to proceed from here?



i think traditionally you light a fire inside the circle bit

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

i think traditionally you light a fire inside the circle bit

H. erectus watching very closely, taking notes by scratching pictograms into the wall

Leon Sumbitches
Mar 27, 2010

Dr. Leon Adoso Sumbitches (prounounced soom-'beh-cheh) (born January 21, 1935) is heir to the legendary Adoso family oil fortune.





A Wizard of Goatse posted:

i think traditionally you light a fire inside the circle bit

Interesting.

I'm kinda Unconventional. A real maverick who doesn't follow the rules.

I'm going to light a fire outside the circle and will report back.

E: at hospital, lost fingat!!!

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Misread the thread, now my deck is on fire, plz help

Hadlock posted:

I'm pretty sure the answer is "scope creep" but morbidly curious, once you replaced the first five, since you've got everything apart, why not shell out the $70-150 (I forgot what lumber costs today) and another two hours(?) for the other 8 joists? The wood looks pretty good but probably not going to get under the decking for another 15-20 years.

Is there any advantage to painting the top of the joists or is the moisture situation here such a slow creep it doesn't matter

Min/Max alarm blinking rapidly here in my head but I've never done any work like this

Yeah it absolutely crossed my mind. But those joists I left really are good to go, so while it’d be nice to have brand new fresh pretty wood throughout, and now is absolutely the time to do it if at all, it just doesn’t get me anything worth shelling out for, and you gotta draw the line somewhere.

In point of fact, like drat near all of this is already scope creep. The original plan was to just put down new decking. But then we realized we should do the railing right, and then I decided I wanted a breaker board around the perimeter, which necessitated additional framing, and then we realized some joists need replaced, and then we decided to tape them all for longevity…I’m just about out of steam on this one-man show. 😅

Super duper 1000% worth it though, no regrets.

As for painting the top of the joists, I put down butyl tape. That should shed all water so it doesn’t sit on the wood. We’ll paint the frame still just for good measure, but that’ll mostly just be cosmetic. There’s good airflow down there, stuff doesn’t stay wet. It’s 9’ off the ground above a concrete slab that drains well.

Got it all taped up, picture wouldn’t help because the sun set an hour ago, but absolutely everything prior to putting the decking itself down is done done DONE. Feels real good.

Lemniscate Blue
Apr 21, 2006

Here we go again.
Congratulations! You're right back where you started. Feels good, doesn't it?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I’m so far beyond that, the build was utter poo poo before. It always needed this, I was just more able to ignore it previously. :negative:

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Leon Sumbitches posted:

I'm experimenting with building a fire pit and not using any mortar, any advice on how to proceed from here?



If those aren't fire bricks, those are probably going to end up cracking from the heat, assuming a decent sized fire. A little one might be okay. Also please get all those dry leaves and sticks away from the fire pit before starting a fire in there.

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Oct 9, 2023

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Bad Munki posted:



In that last pic, you can see the beam and a post. Well, sort of a beam. I am 99% sure that approach of bolting those 2x10s to the face of the post like that is no longer allowed, if it ever was.

What I’d like to do, though, is just nuke that “beam” altogether and replace it with an appropriately-sized gluelam sitting directly on top of the posts. By doing that, I’ll be able to remove the middle post of the three, this opening up the space directly in front of the patio door in a big way. Should be able to do that in-place, just jack that end of the deck up a quarter inch and set it on a temporary wall, remove the old assembly, cut the posts down, hoist the beam in, and set it all back down in place. That’ll probably be in the spring, though.

You're right, at least around here. I wanted to build my deck using carriage bolts. The inspector put the kibosh on that. The beams have to rest on the posts here. It is certainly much stronger, but it did make putting in the railing posts more difficult.

I also don't see any bracing in your pics. Does your deck not have any racking issues?

EricBauman
Nov 30, 2005

DOLF IS RECHTVAARDIG
For three years now, the lack of storage space in my kitchen has bothered me.

As you can see from this photo, I have no upper cabinets, and I have a window that would make wall to wall windows look super weird.
What you can't see is that the back wall is just cinder blocks, so it can't really bear a huge amount of weight. Real cabinets would be too heavy.


So I made a plan:
A shelf, supported by multiple sets of wall brackets, right where the tiles end, on the exhaust hood level. I need multiple shelves because of the weak wall.
I have 47 cm of space on the left between the exhaust hood and the fridge, and about 144cm on the right, so why not make it three shelves of 47cm each on that side as well?
And because of the tiles, I'd need hanging brackets, rather than brackets that support the shelves from below. The brackets I found on Amazon were about 21cm deep, so I decided to go with 30cm deep shelves.

So I got some wood. I replaced the windowsills on the other side of the room with laminated beech panels , and I liked how they looked after oiling, so I went with that again. The hardware store sells those in 200*60cm panels, so I had to have them saw it into my desired dimensions: 6 boards of 30*47 and 2 boards of 30*59 (the remainder, basically).



And then I had to transport them home. Three of the smaller ones in my big backpack, and the rest in my bike basket. This is the kind of moment I miss having a car, but let's be honest, I don't do something like this every month anyway.



Because I want the brackets to not be too visible on the under side (the edge is at about pretty much exactly my eye level, so I decided to hide the underside in the wood a bit. It's hard to explain, but I think my next photos will make clear what I did.

And what I did was chiseling. Don't worry, I used a wooden mallet, that hammer is there for something unrelated.



I did some chiseling until I decided 'gently caress this, this is too much work and the result is pretty ugly, I need something else'. So I ordered a small router.



Worked like a charm. I really liked not having to chisel out 8 sides.
And with the first board routed (for those gaps for the brackets and also to shave a few millimeters off the side, I could install it.



Fits like a glove and looks decent. But it needs a little more love.



I will never stop being amazed at how much better a bit of tung oil will make those boring white boards look. And of course this also seals the wood against moisture and grime.



The right side looks a bit different from left, since there are two places where there are back to back shelves.



I put some stuff on the shelves for a night to make sure they wouldn't collapse. Those beer bottles are empty.



This is with the fourth shelf installed as well. But there's still something missing:



Why not install a rack for glasses as well now that I'm putting all this on the wall anyway?

There's still some things that I need to do:
- Give the boards a new layer of oil once I get back from my vacation. I ran out of oil and need to order a new can. Each new layer is going to make the wood look better.
- Install a few bars that I can use to hang other stuff from. IKEA 40cm kungsfors bars will fit under each shelf (except the one that has the rack, obviously).

I'm not going to post any close ups because in spite of all my effort, some things ended up being pretty crooked. You can see that middle shelf on the right lays a bit higher than the others, for example. This is something that only needs to last me a few years until a larger kitchen reno, and it's more than OK enough for that.

This was a fun project to do in a few nights and a weekend. And I've still got two 30*47 boards, and two 30*59 boards left over. If one of those has very even surface, I'm considering using one of them for a cutting board. I got a router to round of the edges now, and I've got a new can of oil that I need to order anyway, so why not?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

I also don't see any bracing in your pics. Does your deck not have any racking issues?

Not anymore. Check the later pics, I put blocking in at 4' intervals along the joists. It absolutely ate up all the wiggle. And when I do replace that beam, I'd like to put some diagonals at the top of the posts just to bolster it even more.

Worth noting that on the far right of that pic you quoted, the house bumps back out and halfway along that rightmost joist, it's bolted to the house again. So, it's captive in a right angle of the house. That also does a lot, and now there are lines of blocking coming right out from that, carrying that rigidity right through the entire structure.

I guess the great thing about starting from an absolute poo poo build of a deck is that literally everything you do is a massive upgrade. v:shobon:v

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


EricBauman posted:

For three years now, the lack of storage space in my kitchen has bothered me.

As you can see from this photo, I have no upper cabinets, and I have a window that would make wall to wall windows look super weird.
What you can't see is that the back wall is just cinder blocks, so it can't really bear a huge amount of weight. Real cabinets would be too heavy.


So I made a plan:
A shelf, supported by multiple sets of wall brackets, right where the tiles end, on the exhaust hood level. I need multiple shelves because of the weak wall.
I have 47 cm of space on the left between the exhaust hood and the fridge, and about 144cm on the right, so why not make it three shelves of 47cm each on that side as well?
And because of the tiles, I'd need hanging brackets, rather than brackets that support the shelves from below. The brackets I found on Amazon were about 21cm deep, so I decided to go with 30cm deep shelves.

So I got some wood. I replaced the windowsills on the other side of the room with laminated beech panels , and I liked how they looked after oiling, so I went with that again. The hardware store sells those in 200*60cm panels, so I had to have them saw it into my desired dimensions: 6 boards of 30*47 and 2 boards of 30*59 (the remainder, basically).



And then I had to transport them home. Three of the smaller ones in my big backpack, and the rest in my bike basket. This is the kind of moment I miss having a car, but let's be honest, I don't do something like this every month anyway.



Because I want the brackets to not be too visible on the under side (the edge is at about pretty much exactly my eye level, so I decided to hide the underside in the wood a bit. It's hard to explain, but I think my next photos will make clear what I did.

And what I did was chiseling. Don't worry, I used a wooden mallet, that hammer is there for something unrelated.



I did some chiseling until I decided 'gently caress this, this is too much work and the result is pretty ugly, I need something else'. So I ordered a small router.



Worked like a charm. I really liked not having to chisel out 8 sides.
And with the first board routed (for those gaps for the brackets and also to shave a few millimeters off the side, I could install it.



Fits like a glove and looks decent. But it needs a little more love.



I will never stop being amazed at how much better a bit of tung oil will make those boring white boards look. And of course this also seals the wood against moisture and grime.



The right side looks a bit different from left, since there are two places where there are back to back shelves.



I put some stuff on the shelves for a night to make sure they wouldn't collapse. Those beer bottles are empty.



This is with the fourth shelf installed as well. But there's still something missing:



Why not install a rack for glasses as well now that I'm putting all this on the wall anyway?

There's still some things that I need to do:
- Give the boards a new layer of oil once I get back from my vacation. I ran out of oil and need to order a new can. Each new layer is going to make the wood look better.
- Install a few bars that I can use to hang other stuff from. IKEA 40cm kungsfors bars will fit under each shelf (except the one that has the rack, obviously).

I'm not going to post any close ups because in spite of all my effort, some things ended up being pretty crooked. You can see that middle shelf on the right lays a bit higher than the others, for example. This is something that only needs to last me a few years until a larger kitchen reno, and it's more than OK enough for that.

This was a fun project to do in a few nights and a weekend. And I've still got two 30*47 boards, and two 30*59 boards left over. If one of those has very even surface, I'm considering using one of them for a cutting board. I got a router to round of the edges now, and I've got a new can of oil that I need to order anyway, so why not?

As an owner of a house that is comically scant on storage and organizability, I love this sort of thing, very nice.

And that sure is some tile you got there!

EricBauman
Nov 30, 2005

DOLF IS RECHTVAARDIG

Bad Munki posted:

As an owner of a house that is comically scant on storage and organizability, I love this sort of thing, very nice.

And that sure is some tile you got there!


According to the previous owners, those tiles were handmade in Portugal and they would have taken them with them if they could.

But they were probably lying about that, because they were also lying about the electric being up to code and the washing machine not being plumbed into the building's rain drain

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Bad Munki posted:

Not anymore. Check the later pics, I put blocking in at 4' intervals along the joists. It absolutely ate up all the wiggle. And when I do replace that beam, I'd like to put some diagonals at the top of the posts just to bolster it even more.

Worth noting that on the far right of that pic you quoted, the house bumps back out and halfway along that rightmost joist, it's bolted to the house again. So, it's captive in a right angle of the house. That also does a lot, and now there are lines of blocking coming right out from that, carrying that rigidity right through the entire structure.

I guess the great thing about starting from an absolute poo poo build of a deck is that literally everything you do is a massive upgrade. v:shobon:v

Yeah, that'll do it. Nice work.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
Got the shutter sorted



Just need to get the pinhole sorted, and some craft felt for the wipes and light sealing and I'm good to go

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bad Munki posted:

The decking? It’s all in the burn pile now.



I had previously just left some decking in place so I could work from the top more readily. But it’s all gone now, I’ve replaced 5 out of 13 joists and doubled up two of them in addition to that. Also, there was zero blocking before so it was wiggly wiggly wiggly.

That’s all fixed and it’s solid af now. Love it. Next up, butyl tape to prevent a repeat on those rotted joists, and then I’ll slap the decking down. Should be mostly done with that by sunset.

*borat voice* Varry naice. I can't believe the dingdong who built it originally didn't block it. But we have your word and he is conveniently absent.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


If you saw a lot of the other choices the PO made you wouldn’t doubt a single word I ever said about this place.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

I'll believe anything a month ago I had a guy neglect to put any bracing on his temp supports before removing a load-bearing wall, just an assload of loose 10' 2x4s nailed to a board on the floor and wedged to the ceiling joists with nothing in between. pretty sure if we hadn't been there at the time the guy would be a pair of feet sticking out from under what was left of my house right now

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bad Munki posted:

If you saw a lot of the other choices the PO made you wouldn’t doubt a single word I ever said about this place.

I have never doubted a single word you've said about anything.

Deadite
Aug 30, 2003

A fat guy, a watermelon, and a stack of magazines?
Family.
I don’t know where to post this but I made this skeleton puppet to scare trick or treaters on Halloween.

https://i.imgur.com/OuLAKDh.mp4

I’m pretty happy with it so far but it’s awful to walk in and I can’t see anything through the mask.

namlosh
Feb 11, 2014

I name this haircut "The Sad Rhino".

Deadite posted:

I don’t know where to post this but I made this skeleton puppet to scare trick or treaters on Halloween.

https://i.imgur.com/OuLAKDh.mp4

I’m pretty happy with it so far but it’s awful to walk in and I can’t see anything through the mask.

Owns bones

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
That's super cool, nice work!

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