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I'll only post the final result as I didn't read the whole thread from the start so it might have been done before but I have just about finished my wood burning stove made from a butane gas bottle. I have pictures of the whole process if anyones interested.
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Nov 5, 2011 00:41
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 13:43 |
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Okey dokey; Project 87 is my attempt to make a DIY wood burning stove using mostly scrap and based on a Calor Gas Bottle. If you want to try it yourself you will need: An empty Calor Gas Butane cylinder Steel pipe stove paint fire wood Mild Steel plate 2-5mm Angle Grinder Fine metal cutting disks Metal Grinding disk wire brush disk Drill with various bits Duck Tape Steel bolts (M2) a kebab skewer Cardboard Pencil Safety googles, gloves and ear defenders A qualified doctor A welder You might not need all of those things but I did. The first thing to do is collect all the bits you need. I found as the project went on that I had to nip out to get various bits and pieces as I needed them. This wasn't a bad thing as it gave me an excuse to chat the the various builders merchants, scrap dealers and tool suppliers. But it used up more diesel than strictly necessary. I had the gas bottle donated to me so that was free. The steel pipe was (I think) mains water piping but I'm not sure. In any case it came in 6 foot lengths is 4" diameter and was slightly flared at one end so slots together. In theory. However the bits I got were not perfectly round and so needed a fair bit of persuasion with a hammer. But I'll come to that later. The flat steel plate is optional but it is used for a hotplate on the top. Both came from a local scrap/recycling yard and cost me £4 Having gathered all your tools the next thing is to ensure your workplace is free from chickens.   buk buk indeed. Next we need to make sure there is no gas left in the cylinder. I can't stress this enough. In fact if I were you I'd not even try this at all on account of the minor risk of death. I used an angle grinder to cut into a gas cylinder. Can you imagine? Madness. but anyway; The valve on top is like the one in your car tyre, there is a nipple in the middle you can depress to open it. Obviously you want to have disposed of the majority of the gas in the normal way, by running it out in a super ser or patio heater or whatever first. but there will continue to be a risidual bit as, I am told, propane is heavier than air so even with ambient pressure it will lurk in the bottom of the cylinder. initially I tried to simply unscrew the valve.  Oh how simple that would have been. If it worked. This may work for you however so is worth a try. Note the thread on the valve is the opposite to what you'd expect, so clockwise loosens it. Bu for me it did not work. So what to do. Well I reasoned, and this was backed up by google, that if the tank were filled with water then that would push out the remaining gas. So with the use of a wooden kebab skewer I wedged open the nipple valve on the top. I then used a hose pipe to trickle water into the top of the tank.  This worked, and you can see the bubbles of gas coming out as its displaced by the water but dear god its slow. So slow in fact I left it overnight. The next morning the tank was less than 1/4 full. Balls. The valve was simply too small to let much water in. I decided therefore to drill into the tank so I could get the water in faster. I considered the risk of sparks and figured if I tipped the tank on its side and drilled under the existing water line I'd probably survive.  What I did next I now regret. I drilled into the centre of the eponymous 87 at the top of the cylinder. Were I doing it again I would recommend you drill into the BOTTOM, where it wont be seen. Aw well. So, two holes, one for water in, one for gas out.  So we now have a cylinder full of lovely, inert, non explosive water. Time to get rid of the valve. My way of doing this was to drill it out. To do this you drill a series os small holes and then go over them again with a larger bit so they all join up. My tip for this: use a very small bit and drill your holes as close together as you can. If you use too large a bit then your drill may have issues getting enough torq. If you find the tip of the drill skittering about when you're starting you probably aren't applying direct pressure, you're pressing down at an angle - so tilt the drill in the direction it keeps slipping towards. When you get most of the way round you might find a hammer can persuade the last hanging on bits to let go. You should end up with something a lot neater looking than this:  Next, to be sure to be sure, I rinsed it out with water. I left for the amount of time it takes to make a nice cup of coffee and congratulate yourself on completing the most iffy bit without dying.  At this stage I hadn't decided if I wanted a flat top or the chimney coming out of the middle - I hadn't been to the scrap yard for those bits yet. Either way though that hole needed tidying up. Using a worn 41/2 inchc grinding disk as a template I marked out a circle. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224347.jpg.pagespeed.ic.z3ZMMTrWUq.jpg[/img] This gave me a line to work to with the grinder.  Now I've not mentioned safety equipment much. Chances are the moment you began drilling into the top of the tank you'd have thought, hmm - ear defenders might be an idea as the screeching noise is awful. You might have considered the possibility of how embarrassing it would be to get a sliver of steel in your eyeball and worn glasses too, and you would be wise. But next we're going to use an angle grinder. If you stop a moment to consider, as I did, the potential forces involved in spinning a brittle little disk at high speed, and exerting lateral pressure sufficient to wear away steel it may occur to you that if bits start flying off in the direction of your soft and yielding flesh it might be bad. So gloves, goggles, ear defenders, non flammable clothing and an executor of your estate are a wise precaution. I also had a consultant emergency anaesthetist but I appreciate not everyone has one of them to hand. The first time you get hit in the face by the pretty sparks you'll thank me. So when I was done I had this:  That's the top done. now we need a door. Using an A4 piece of paper make a square and position it where you want your door to be. To be honest mine could have done with being a little bit lower than it was. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224410.jpg.pagespeed.ic.r_Xi8m4VGA.jpg[/img] Using a pen draw round the page and then frame it using duck tape. so when you're cutting you have a guide.  Now its time to cut out the door. I used a very thin cutting blade for this as we're going to use the bit we cut out for the door later. The fine disks do wear down very quickly mind you so you may need a new one later on. Take your time and you should end up with something like this.  I think now you'll agree its starting to look a bit like a stove. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224433.jpg.pagespeed.ic.1ZX0zxLDJJ.jpg[/img] Next we need to get rid of the existing paint. Thankfully this is simple. We burn it off. Set a fire in the base of your stove to be. It was at this point I realised my door opening was a bit high as the fire bed was so low it didn't get a good airflow. but fear not, I fixed this later. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111023-224445.jpg.pagespeed.ic.9mil7_BzkS.jpg[/img] Get a good blaze going and in less than an hour it'll look like this  To fit the door made from the cut out piece I used a simple (cheap) pin hinge attached with some steel bolts. Later on I replaced them with rivets, which look a lot nicer. Plus it gave me an excuse to buy a riveter. New toys are always good.    You can use whatever you want for a door handle, I happened to have an old sideboard that I nicked a brass knob off. I'm not sure how it'll cope with the heat over the long term but meh, we'll see what happens. When you attach the door is should look something like this  I was at this point I thought, wouldn't it be nice to have a flat top to put a kettle on    Of course the problem then is I'd need to cut another hole for the chimney. And that's be on the curves section of the cylinder. I couldn't just use a flat template for the hole as when it curved it'd make an elipse. So my solution was to make a stack of cardboard cut from a thick box. I used a 3" counter cutting bit for this.  When I glued it together I ended up with a solid cylinder I could shape  Okay, that isn't strictly necessary, you'd proabably be alright just drilling out a hole roughly the right shape and grinding it out but it was raining.   And you can't deny it did work. [img] http://www.echoblue.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/216x289x20111029-192911.jpg.pagespeed.ic.9Krf0eretX.jpg[/img] Next we need a flue. I actually went to 2 places. The first one the guy just gave 2 lengths of enamelled flue pipe. But when I got home I relaised that it was too wide at 6" and looked funny. So instead I used 4" steel pipe.  Once it was in place at the back though I used a small square of mild steel for the top. Both the pipe and the hotplate I had to get a friend to weld on for me. It took him about 1/2 an hour in total. I would like to have done it myself but I can't weld. yet. Maybe next time. A quick coat of stove paint and it looked pretty near done   I've cut an air vent lower down on one side. A sliding cover for that is currently under way.  There is also a baffle. In theory this should keep more heat in the stove itself and prevent downdrafts pushing smoke out the front. I'm not sure how effective it is but we'll see how it goes.  So that's it. At the minute I'm working on making the sliding door for the air vent and 60 degree elbows for the flue pipe for going out the wall instead of the roof. I also want to see if I can cut and roll those 6" pipes down to 4" and then rivet them. Bit of a long post I'm afraid but I did make an effort to keep the pics small. 
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Nov 5, 2011 11:02
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It is for the garage yes. There will be a carbon monoxide alarm going in there too, just in case. I was planning on making a small backstop but I found when I hung the door that the hinge doesn't let it go any further than in line with the frame so in the end I didn't need anything else. I have seen cabin hooks and gate clasps used to hold the door closed but I haven't found it necessary. You could use fire bricks in the bottom if you wished but I've been burning wood, turf and occasionally charcoal in it and it seems to have no issues. If i was burning more coal then that would be different - I'd need a grate and lower air vent. I am waiting for a laser pointer thermometer (not it's real name probably) I've ordered to arrive to see what kind of temperatures the body and flue get up to. It could well be that in the longer term the heat will destroy it but really, considering it cost less than tenbux, if it dies i'll make another one. I have another cylinder already for the MK2. this one will have a totally flat top with the flue coming out the back and posssibly 2 doors. But I want to do the welding on this one myself so I'm trying to find someone to teach me the basics. I'm also still pondering the best way to put a damper in the flue to try and keep more heat in. I suppose in theory you could make the whole thing without any welding if you just riveted everything and used fire rope as a gasket. I have also seen other versions which have a glass port hole in the door (Pyrex dish) which looks pretty good.
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Nov 6, 2011 17:54
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Your diagram has the groundsheet extending beyond the side. What stops the rainwater collecting on it? Why are you having a ground sheet at all?
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Nov 6, 2011 23:54
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MisterFusion posted:Not as amazing as everything else in this thread, but I'm pretty proud of this Gunslinger shirt I made for my brother for his birthday using stencils and bleach: You definately haven't forgotten the face of your father, great work.
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Dec 31, 2012 18:59
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Tev posted:I'm working on cleaning up an old traffic signal my Dad had from his days installing traffic signals a long long time ago. It's in decent shape I think and he had wired it to plug into a normal 110 outlet, but it has a manual 3-way switch on the back to control the lights and being a huge goon I really want to rewire it to be controlled with a raspberry pi so I can turn the lights on/off through a webpage. The problem is I'm not knowledgable at all when it comes to electrial wiring and my Dad isn't around anymore to give me some direction. Anyone know of any good places to start reading up on basic wiring/electric work? I found this guy's blog about getting it hooked up to the RasPi, so I'm probably good on that front aside from figuring out how to hook up the relay and make sure I don't burn my house down. Another option to consider is using an esp8266 board. It's a control board with built in wifi that runs the arduino IDE. It could easily run this over a webpage on your local wifi If you use an MQTT system you could even control the lights over the Internet. There's a few instructables on it http://www.instructables.com/howto/Esp8266+switch/ The best thing is the controller is less than tenbux I just finished a project using an esp8266 to control a henhouse door using a phone app if anyone's interested.
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Sep 1, 2016 07:45
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You might get a better result if you change those radii to simple straight bevels. Convex curves like that can turn out poorly on 3d prints if they're on the underside.
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Aug 2, 2017 00:21
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Nah the dome should be fine so long as the layer height is reasonably fine and you use 3 or 4 perimeters.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:19
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Illuminado posted:I'm quite partial to John Neeman, now 'Northmen' stuff. Good hangover watching, thanks for that.
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Oct 25, 2017 08:15
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Could the lights be mounted above those hazard triangles to let the tailgate open 180 degrees? I’d be worried about having a senior moment and standing or pulling something heavy out and breaking the chains and lights.
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Jun 3, 2018 06:36
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JEEVES420 posted:I wouldn't be able to reproduce that exact look twice. The burl cap dictates the wood and the resin pours change the look of the resin. That is made with a Green base resin and then mat black, blue pearl, and white pearl all mixed together. I can use the same ingredients and get a similar look but it would have slight differences. That’s what makes it so great!
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Jan 2, 2019 21:43
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Baby’s first cudgel. 
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Jan 13, 2019 18:26
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Blue On Blue posted:you didn't put any outlets above the cabinets, how do you expect to use this kitchen? Are those squares on the island pop-up outlet towers?
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Jan 12, 2020 09:15
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3D printed stops work a treat.
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Feb 13, 2020 20:00
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His Divine Shadow posted:Why does that "robot" look so familiar? Are you thinking of the bad robot from the end of the Buffy tv show titles? Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 26, 2020 13:42
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bEatmstrJ posted:Finished the router extension wing for my table saw. Now just need to make a fence for it. That’s a good job - where did you get the slot hardware and the longer fence rail?
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May 29, 2020 16:50
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bobua posted:Every saturday I have all day free I wake up and think about just how far I'm going to get on a project, then the sun starts to go down and I think well at least I finished this jig so I can get right to it tomorrow. https://youtu.be/AbSehcT19u0 Every. Single. Time.
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Jun 4, 2020 21:20
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Automatic cat feeder; uses an IoT relay with wifi (Shelly) to feed the moggy on a schedule or via phone shortcut.
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Jun 27, 2020 16:17
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My toddler loves this thing - if you need some inspiration
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Aug 28, 2020 19:28
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Little advent calendar type cubby holes behind each door would be cool.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:21
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armorer posted:I don't have kids, They’re a canny foe, there’s no doubt about it.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:36
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I kinda knew you weren’t I hope it didn’t come across as too snide:, it is a pain in the proverbials when they figure how to open Doors Cupboards Drawers The bathroom Phones Dishwashers Child locks Seatbelts But sure it’s all good fun.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:16
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Quail I think.
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Oct 31, 2020 09:12
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I strongly suspect some of those paperbacks are load bearing, which is actually a cool idea, shelf brackets Hidden behind fake dust jackets...
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Dec 27, 2020 21:37
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A small display set as a gift. The collar pins were modelled from reference images, 3D printed, painted and weathered. They have butterfly pin mounts. The frame was originally all that gold colour so the inset was painted and inked and the mounting made from a dollar store set of felt pads.
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Sep 18, 2021 16:36
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Meant to look like these:
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Sep 18, 2021 17:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:It's working! A friend who lets me use their lathe recently tidied the shed and has an unrestored lamp like that and 2 heaters - the same arrangement but with a parabolic dish. i wonder how much work there’s be in getting them shiny and working.
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Dec 23, 2021 09:31
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Deadite posted:It’s LED, it’s called LED Neon Flex and so far I haven’t been able to find a product I’m completely satisfied with. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004000431006.html - not a seller recommendation just the first one that came up.
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Oct 13, 2022 06:37
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Labrador retrievers, but same. Doesn’t detract from the fact it looks awesome though.
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Aug 28, 2023 18:39
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 13:43 |
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Deadite posted:
https://kno.wled.ge/ WLED is worth a go. Great community, ZERO coding required. You get a cheap controller board that’s like a smaller arduino with wifi (esp8266 or esp32), install wled using your browser. Has built in animations and timers and all sorts. Really powerful and accessible. Echoing everyone else those look amazing. Edit: there are WLED controllers that use an esp32 and add fuses and screw terminals and whatnot making a $10 a $40 controller. With such short runs of LEDs I would use a bare esp board and a 5v DC step down transformer if you need it. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Sep 21, 2023 |
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Sep 21, 2023 06:09
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