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Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I have this band saw, it's the first I've owned. I recently put a 10tpi blade in it to replace the one that came with it which looked about 6tpi. I'm making a knife handle which, right now, is in the form:

10mm birch
1mm G10
1mm G10
10mm birch

Each side has the birch glued to the G10 with epoxy, and the G10 is held together temporarily in the middle with cyanoacrylate.

My problem is that the blade is really struggling to cut it, requiring too much pressure against it and so it ends up burning the material - but without that pressure it just isn't cutting. Since it's my first band saw I'm not sure why this is - is it because the teeth are too dense? It's well within the saw's thickness capability and it seemed to cut through these materials individually just fine. Not sure if there are any other details that are relevant.

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Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I've made one knife handle to practice the process before I invest in nicer materials. I used a G10 liner and polyurethane varnish - it's turned out adequate.

Now that I'm ready to get the materials that I actually want, what's an appropriate finish for the handle? I'm intending to use stabilised maple burl. It's not going to be used in bad conditions and I'm looking for something that will show off the figuring in the wood.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Thanks, I will go for oil, and I'll post a picture when it's done (don't hold your breath).

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Leperflesh posted:

but that's laborious to build up IMO and can take longer to dry.

This really isn't a problem for me. This whole thing is an activity I undertake in little bits between sets working out in the garage. It's taken me like 6 weeks to do one handle.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


That's a really good point that I had not thought about. It's apparently 'cactus juice' resin and it seems to be common for this purpose so I'll look around to see what others have done with it.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor




Is this woodwording? I bought the blade blank but made the handle - zebrawood, amboyna, and brass. The woods were stabilised, I finished by sanding to 8000 grit and using Renaissance Wax.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Thanks. I got the blade blank here but it seems they're really easy to get hold of. It wasn't perfect quality - it was quite warped so I had to grind it flat. In terms of the process this was actually the second one I made - the first one I used just the cheapest materials I could find, so that I could make my mistakes without ruining something I actually like. I still hosed up a few times on this one but managed to recover - I had intended another bit of brass at the front but it pinged off when I was grinding the shape. I also foolishly drilled the pin holes with both sides of the handle on one side , without having checked their thickness was perfectly uniform so they did not fit at first and needed re-drilling. The shaping ended up being impractical to do by hand so I got a tube sanding attachment for an angle grinder which I used as a makeshift belt grinder - I also made an improvised extraction hood:



The downside to this was the whole idea of this project was that I could do it between sets when I'm working out in the garage early morning - but because this grinder was so noisy that was not possible.

I'll probably do another for my dad for father's day.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


8000 definitely over the top for wood but I didn't know if it'd make a difference that it's stabilised. Going to 3000 definitely does make a difference to the appearance of the steel and brass that is visible on the spine, I'd also bought a pack of micromesh pads and won't use the higher ones for anything else so figured I'd have a go.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


A Real Happy Camper posted:

do you not have storm drains near your house? how else will the fish in your local river finish their woodworking projects?

That's really irresponsible and could cause issues with the wastewater systems.

Dumping it in the river directly would be better.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Leperflesh posted:

To that end, I recommend keeping pencils and a pencil sharpener in the shop. I like a nice soft pencil to make clear marks, and keep it very sharp to make thin marks.

I got this pencil and love it. It might seem a lot for a pencil but given it's refillable, comes with several soft leads, it's not bad considering its utility. It's got a tiny sharpener built into the cover and the body of the thing is thin enough to fit into thin holes for marking. There are also much cheaper knock-offs on Aliexpress.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I feel like I see end grain chopping boards that have thin strips in the pattern whose grain runs along the board. Are there any issues with this provided they're kept thin? Some are so small I think they'd snap otherwise.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


It was plaid pattern boards that I'd seen where I figured it would have been too onerous to cut endgrain strips that thin. I'm working on a basketweave one at the moment where it's all going to be endgrain and about 2" thick - a big reason for doing it myself is I want the board thicker than is commonly offered commercially.

In terms of internet boards I see a lot of them made with oak, and the very first thing I ever read about making them was "don't use oak because the open grain is unhygienic".

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Mine will be massaranduba and maple, based on what was available at the reclaimed wood place. I wouldn't be surprised if the massaranduba dulls knife edges though because it seems incredibly dense. I would have used walnut but by comparison it seems so much more expensive.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


It looks as if a child drew a saw blade.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Skunkduster posted:

How do people keep that Festool track saw track from sliding around? Does it have some sort of grippy rubber backing? I've never seen one in person and when I watch people use them in videos, it looks like they never clamp it down.

They do have a rubber backing, how grippy that particular one is I don't know. I got a really cheap track saw and the track has a rubber backing which you initially cut with the saw such that when you lay the track on something, you see exactly where the saw will cut. It also reduces tear out.

But also they've got little t-tracks on the bottom and one can get clamps for those which would be invisible from above.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I have a bench almost exactly like this one, which I inherited:



I want to keep using it because it's the right size for my space and I've fitted my own better vice to it.

In search of more clamping options I have been tempted by the Microjig Matchfit stuff, because the dog holes on this aren't a suitable size for MFT accessories. It seemed to me that getting one of their sets and making a replaceable plywood topper for this would cost me less and be less destructive than trying to expand the dog holes to fit MFT hold downs etc.

How good or bad an idea is it to get a sheet of 18 or 25mm ply, screw it to the top of the bench in a few places, and cut Matchfit dovetails throughout it? I figured only screws so it can be replaced when I need to.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


That is good to know, but I don't have space for a second surface. Since posting I've also seen folks have investigated what it takes to use third party clamps in dovetail grooves and apparently 10° grooves (as opposed to the Matchfit 14°) will fit most track clamps and will hold up to normal usage. For the price of a cheap router bit I'm going to try that with my existing clamps and if it works then it is worth my just having a go given the incredibly low cost and the reversability.

Edit: Cheap 10° dovetail works. So rather than £135 or so for two ratchet clamps and the Matchfit router cutter, it's £24 for the regular dovetail cutter and two Aliexpress ratchet clamps.

Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Apr 12, 2024

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


HappyHippo posted:

Bought a gouge, made a spoon



This looks good. I thought I could do the same but I was wrong. I bought an Aliexpress spoon carving knife which is nice and sharp, but my intention was to use some left over stabilised zebrano and it seems the resin makes it impossible to carve. So I'm using a Dremel with a Kutzall rotary burr.

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Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I got some DeWalt goggles for that reason, they're comfortable and form a seal around the eyes. The only problem is some condensation does form after wearing them a long time.

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