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I decided to get into woodworking a little while back, but have hesitated as everything I want to do would be easier with a table saw, but the table saw we have is not in usable condition. It's an old craftsman 8" direct drive, this bad boy right here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/113221611-craftsman-parts-manual The last time I used it was a decade ago, and it was loud as gently caress, but cut surprisingly well once you got it trimmed up. Well, well for an inexpensive table top saw from the 80s, I really wasn't expecting much. My dad still uses it occasionally for plywood, but hasn't in at least the last year. Ideally I want to replace it, but the problem is my project money just went into something else and it'll be a while before I have table saw money. My plan right now is to refurbish that old saw, which should be pretty simple. I think the only thing actually broken is the elevation handle, which I can just reattach with a set screw, or go super janky and just glue it on. Of course I'm going to go through the whole saw and make sure it is worth working on before I put any effort into it. I think the only thing I'll need to spend money on is a new blade, and it's probably not worth spending any more than that. Also looking to get a budget worked out for a new saw, and I've got a few options that I'm between. Space is at a premium, so a hybrid/contractor saw is as big as I can go. My family does this weird thing where we park cars in our garage, so it needs a mobile base. I'd prefer something new, but a good oldie with a mobile base and available parts would work too. Anyone have experience with these, or anything similar? Delta 36-725 $600 Good Fence, seems well reviewed except for some horror shows. My Realistic budget best pick Rigid R4512 $600 Better reviews, but the fence isn't as good. Still has horror show reviews, and it seems they don't do repairs you have to return the entire saw? Sawstop Contractor Saw $2000 with the base? Seem like the best of the contractor saws with a mobile base. Also out of my price range, but I like my fingers so I haven't ruled it out. Dewalt DW745S $300 well reviewed Jobsite Saw Nowhere near as capable as the other saws, but packs way smaller and I can chuck is in a closet. I think I would regret this as it would hold me back as much as my current saw would. Comedy Option Skil 3410-02 $200 Basically what the craftsman would be if I bought it today. Edit: Good idea, bad idea? Old Craftsman with what looks like all the parts. Asking $100 https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/tls/d/sears-craftsman-10-table-saw/6632125279.html Bondematt fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 07:14
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xwing posted:I have a Delta 36-725 and I'm very happy with it. In my area they would pop up used every once and a while. Thanks, that Delta is still the winner so far. The craftsman seems decent, but at that price I would probably just opt for the $300 Dewalt. Sockser posted:Dewalt 7491 That 7491 was actually the first one I was really thinking about, that fence and rip size is insane on a jobsite saw. If I had even slighlty less space that would have been the no-brainer choice. How stable do you feel it is, and does the smaller table size ever get in the way? Pissed Ape Sexist posted:Hey, I recognize that big ugly beast! This is all really good, I didn't realize how much that thing weighs, but according to google the saw itself weighs about 250lbs, I couldn't find if that was with or without the motor. The base it probably another 100 lbs. Trying to imagine solo moving that into the corner after using it all day. Also I feel like I would spend more time making it work than actually using it. Kinda funny how much denser a full cast iron saw is. The hybrids I'm looking at top out at 250lbs for the whole thing.
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Jul 26, 2018 02:51
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Alright, so it's finally time to start refurbing this POS. 8" Direct Drive Craftsman that is probably almost as old as I am. Motor seems to work great, switch..switches...fine, but the small stop(no pictures) doesn't inspire much confidence so I'll see if I can make a paddle or something for it. If I need to stop the saw it'd be quicker to pull the plug than hunt for the switch. We have the right wing, but I can't find the mounting hardware for that, so I might cannibalize the left's for now until I decide to even spend a penny on this saw.  The blade is visibly angled, but since the handles for depth and angle are busted I have to turn the stem with pliers.   The fence is ok, and seems to be square already, but any reasonable force further down the fence causes it to bend. It's hollow C channel and you can see it in the first pic flipped upside down. I'm thinking of cutting a strip of wood to stick inside it to cut down on the flex. cute mitre gauge, with bonus whittled pin since the original hosed off a decade ago.   First goal is to make some handles so I can at least use the saw. There's a splitter/guard thing and I think I have all the parts for that, but they might be too wide for the thin kerf blades.
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Aug 14, 2018 07:17
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Need to make a desktop to replace my Ikea sandwiched carboard ...thing since my desk mounted monitor arm just collapses it an any spot that I put it on after a few weeks. This is with a 6x4 piece of wood to spread the load... Would like it to be 58.5"x30". Is my best bet sandwiching 3/4 plywood, or doing a glueup panel? Ideally between 1" and 1 1/2" I have no clamps currently, but there's no reason I can't buy a few. Ninja: Will be painted black
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Feb 12, 2019 05:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You have no woodworking experience, correct? I base that judgement on the fact that you have no clamps whatsoever. In that case I'd definitely recommend going the plywood route, just to keep things as simple as possible. Unfortunately for you, plywood is sold in 4'x8' sheets in the US, and your desired size is just slightly over half a sheet, so you'll need two full sheets cut down to your desired dimensions. Spread wood glue on the face of one, put the other on top, then spread a bunch of heavy things on top of that (weightlifting gear is ideal for this, or buckets of water; you probably want a couple hundred pounds or so for a glue-up of this size). Or buy some clamps and make cauls out of 2x4s. Make sure your edges are nicely aligned, then leave it for a day. Very little experience! Made a few things over the years for other projects, but never made anything furniture quality. Basically I've cut wood and put screws in it, once I even used glue! Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you can find Baltic birch plywood (call a specialty lumberyard/cabinet supply place) it comes in 5’x5’ sheets. Rip one in half and glue/screw it to itself and you’ll have a very strong, flat 60”x30”x1.5” table top. It also has no voids in the edges and should paint up nicely. That's perfect, is 5x5 baltic birch common? I'm in San Diego so we have a ton of lumber yards and hardwood places.
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Feb 13, 2019 04:41
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Update: first place I called has 5x5 3/4" Baltic Birch for ~$40 and can cut it in half for me. Couple of miles off my commute. http://www.th-h.com/products.htm Might get by there on Friday, but they are open Saturday if I can't.
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Feb 14, 2019 08:51
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Made the desk top over the last weekend and it went really well. T&H was great, nice staff, and has a shitload of solid wood and sheetgoods. They had 5/8" Baltic Birch which was the perfect thickness for the desk, glued and screwed it with 1" screws on a 6"x6" grid starting 3" from the edges. Cut it to the final dimensions of 58"x28". Only part that could be better was the paint. Did you know that you're supposed to leave latex paint alone once you lay it down? I didn't. Some spots are nice and smooth, some are pretty rough. Might end up repainting this weekend. Thanks for the advice, especially on the baltic birch! Next project is to make is a dresser to fit in my closet under my clothes rack. Debating on re-purposing the dressers I have by just cutting down a drawer, or building something from scratch. The dresser's are made out of melamine'd particle board, so not sure how paintable that is. The particle board seems to be really low quality too, and is attached by weird pegs that have a turning nut that grabs it from the side. Really wobbly and crap all around. If I do build my own, I'm thinking something like this https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/a972e3cb-e81b-4025-84d7-46b2a5f17093/Dresser-Mk2 Not sure how to do the corners really, I have them as rabbeted, but I would need a lot of clamps to do this all at once. My googling leads me to believe that hardwood plywood would probably be the best bet for painting. Ideally no screws, but not really married to that since it'll be painted anyway.
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Feb 28, 2019 07:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've found Fusion360 to be equal to or better than sketchup. And it's also free which sketchup used to be but I guess isn't anymore? Sketchup online is free, and fine for simple work, but the full program is paid.
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Aug 21, 2019 08:13
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What's the easiest way to remove latex paint and primer? Both are water based and this is on 2 sheets of Baltic birch that was glued and screwed together. My end goal is to stain and then seal my desktop with poly. Edit: I have belt sander, disc sander, and I'm not above using chemicals if it saves me from having to sand as much.
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May 7, 2020 05:31
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Dewalt's having a decent sale on their planer, going for $500 at HD, Lowes, Amazon, probably others too: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...W735X/203054755 The 735X is the 735 with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. I'm debating picking up a jointer as well, but with the space I have I could only really do a benchtop. Not sure if that's worth it or if I should just keep doing it by hand.
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Jun 16, 2020 04:29
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anatomi posted:I want to glue up my poor man's workbench, but I'm worried that my ponderous pace is gonna be a problem, e.g. when setting the clamps. Can I extend the drying time of ordinary indoor glue somehow? No, but the usual slow approach would be to do it in pieces. Then glue those blocks together for the top. So instead of doing all the boards at once, you're only gluing and clamping 1/4-1/3 of the total. The only way to get more open time is to use a different glue.
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Jul 5, 2020 19:06
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Spookydonut posted:Am I crazy to contemplate laminating a workbench top like this: Trying to find a video, but I know I've seen a benchtop glueup done like this using scraps of different lengths. I would join the short boards together into long boards before doing the glue up. It will be really finicky trying to get it all perfect at once. Personally I'd glue and screw with pocket screws and remove the screws before gluing up the top. The strength of that joint isn't critical as long as it survives the glueup and you won't have visible screw holes either. Anything else like finger joints or half-laps would work too.
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Jul 7, 2020 01:49
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Bad Munki posted:Anyhow, that’s my story, thanks for listening. This is amazing. Both the effort and the result. Spookydonut posted:The short pieces in this case are 1/2 the length of the long pieces to get a table about 1.6-1.8m in length. Yeah, sorry I was referring to all the original boards as short boards. I just mean to join them lengthwise in the layout you had before doing the glue up. So join the orange and green boards lengths first.  Your other good option to prevent gaps where the lengths meet is to clamp the length when gluing up.
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Jul 7, 2020 09:52
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cakesmith handyman posted:Both circular saws I've owned have some sort of riving knife? Europeans get the fancy stuff. In the US we get to find out what a deductible is.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:58
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Bioshuffle posted:My current desk is particle board, and I am not happy with how it held up. I figured the countertop would be more sturdy. Would it make for a poor desk? I did find some videos of people doing just this, but I don't know if they know what they're talking about. Keep in mind the KARLBY is "thick" oak veneer on a particle board core, it is also pre-finished. No idea how thick, thick is, but it is probably fine for desk duties. If you are looking for solid wood something like this from HD is in the same price ranges and is unfinished. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwoo...2574C/301812823
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Jul 16, 2020 02:36
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more falafel please posted:I got a new Grizzly #4 plane, because I saw some reviews that said it was actually really solid for very cheap. Today I flattened the sole (honestly didn't take much, it was pretty flat out of box), lapped the back of the iron, sharpened the iron to a 25 degree primary bevel and put a 30 degree microbevel on it. I haven't done anything with the chipbreaker other than set it about 1/32" back from the edge of the iron. This is my first bevel-down plane, so I've never dealt with a chipbreaker before. more falafel please posted:From the side, it does look like there's a gap, which is probably what's causing the clogging. The chip breaker was the problem on mine. The way it is set up, there's a gap between the blade and it at the front and it just jammed material in there. I ground the bevel side until that was gone using a bevel guide. Edit: Also make sure the back of the blade is actually flat and that no light shines through between it and the chip breaker. Here's an example of just a touch of light on a chip breaker I whipped into the ground and dented the edge on so it is not flat against the blade. This cuts fine at first, but I get chatter and broken shavings after a few strokes as the smallest fibers get stuck in there and it builds up a nest. 
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 20:49
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JEEVES420 posted:UPS Freight delivered my Jointer...stand Waiting for the inevitable "Did you check the box for any other parts?" from UPS customer service.
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Aug 26, 2020 05:03
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They lost the loving jointer. Its 79" long and weighs 400lbs...how did they loose it. At least Grizzly said if its not delivered in 3 days they will ship another one.
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It's all out of the same factory. The Wahuda 8" comes with cast iron tables, the Rikon does not, but the Rikon has a 5 year warranty and you can pretty much guarantee they will be there for it. Wahuda was known as Cutech until a year or two ago, so I don't exactly expect them to be around for their full 2 year warranty anyway. I bought the Wahuda 8" Spiral Head on sale and its fine, the only issue I have is the fence isn't great, but that seems to be one of the weakpoints of benchtops in general. The Wahuda fence is better than the Cutech per the reviews, but I still adjust it whenever I move the fence around. Also I love the phrase "Helical Style" that Rikon uses, since none of these cheap jointers are actually helical. Edit: Lol, they now make a 10" benchtop jointer https://www.wahudatools.com/10in-benchtop-jointer-p/50110cc-whd-early-bird.htm Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 02:17
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Flea Bargain posted:So i got 80 grit sandpaper and started flattening my plane and it's looking great... Until i check if its square to the aide of the plane, and its not - its about 0.5mm high on one side. How hosed am i? Should i start flattening again with more pressure on that side? How big a deal is it? I know I wont be able to shoot with it, which is a problem in the future I guess. I'm not sure which Stanley you have, but any budget plane is not going to have square cheeks/sides. Stanley, Grizzly, Taytools, etc. Hell, my Grizzly doesn't even have parallel cheeks, they lean in, and at different angles. It shouldn't be an issue for planing as long as the base is flat enough and you can get the blade even with it. I don't think you'll realistically get through .5mm of metal with sandpaper. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 09:17
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:on the subject of routers, i got a Skil 1835 for next to nothing at an estate sale. im still incredibly new to all this--should i bother cleaning it up and figuring out how to dial it in (gona be tough, cuz i can't find a manual online and it looks like it might be missing a couple accessories)? or should i just eat my $15 loss? It's the same as 1823. I think the manual we have in the garage actually just says Model 1823/1835 manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1170699/Skil-1823.html#manual My dad's routes fine, drawback is it only has a 1/4" collet. I cleaned it up recently as it hadn't been used in at least 20 years, thankfully only surface rust and I was able to get the bit out of the collet with some work. Edit: Speak of the devil, here's an ebay listing with our exact manual https://www.ebay.com/itm/Skil-Plung...oAAAOSwuXJfmJ8- Bondematt fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Jan 23, 2021 |
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Jan 23, 2021 09:15
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Bouillon Rube posted:Probably the laziest possible way to do splines...but it seems to work?  Routers are great for shallow splines.
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Feb 7, 2021 22:40
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Are there any tabletop jointers that are worth a drat? I have very limited space so I've avoided getting one but I'm getting tired of doing it by hand or faking it with table or circular saw jigs. The Rikon 8" is ok, and I have the Wahuda branded version of the 8" with a spiral head. The big drawbacks are the small length of the bed means you can only reliable flatten shorter boards, and if you move the fence you have to fiddle with it to get 90* again. I may make my own fence since I almost always cut 90* or 135* and never in between. The motor is strong and the blades seem to leave a good surface.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:14
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Douglas Fir is $2.18 a board foot at my Home Depot. How are hardwoods doing? I haven't gone by my local place in months, but it didn't seem up by much then.
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May 7, 2021 01:34
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tracecomplete posted:So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan Are you looking for something beyond the free personal plan? I use it for all my woodworking mockups and 3d printing modelling. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal
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Sep 13, 2021 06:23
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So...how would you finish a set of stained SPF/whitewood dog stairs? They will be putting adhesive backed carpet on it to give the dog more traction. I was looking into shellac for some of the stuff I do, but no idea how that would work here with something that will take dog claws daily. Please help, finishes scare me. Edit: Maybe an oil based polyurethane? They want as flat a finish as possible. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 03:50
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Deteriorata posted:If it's being covered with carpet, you probably don't need any. Otherwise, the go-to finish for mundane stuff is water-based polyurethane. Neat, looks like that'll work!
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Feb 10, 2022 04:07
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What wood would be the best wood for building something like a Tool Caddy? From googling Pine and Poplar seem pretty popular, but since this is not going to be painted I was thinking some kind of Pine for looks, but I know that would dent pretty easy. This is for a work auction for a charity so I don't think it's going to see much actual use, but I do want to make sure it looks good. I'm also thinking of finger/box jointing the side and end boards, and putting the bottom in like a drawer bottom by putting in a dado so it can be a little loose to not mess with wood movement. Also I think the board needs to be pretty wide, since I'll want the side/end boards grain to flow around the perimeter, and the end boards need to be tall enough for the handle. Basically something like this but with finger joints instead of screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ3c_P2EFTU Edit: A quick fusion 360 of what I'm thinking design wise. Overlapping corners will be box jointed. About 7 inches tall, 10 inches wide, and 16 inches long. 
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 22:22
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Those are really good points, and yeah makes sense they would traditional be beater wood. Gonna walk around the dealer tomorrow and see what looks good. Thank you!
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Aug 12, 2022 23:46
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Hell Yeah Douglas Fir is one of my favorites, in Southern California it's our construction grade lumber along with Kiln Dried SPF/Whitewood and it's the main wood I've worked with. The only issues I ever have with it is it likes to splinter when dry and if you get it at a box store it's literally wet to the touch and tends to pretzel on the drive home. I haven't had luck with Poplar, but I also haven't looked that deep so I'll definitely check that out too. This is where I'm heading with the design. Handle is going to be a wedged tenon. Thinking Walnut and Maple, but I'm not set on anything. Also Fusion 360 seems to kinda suck at drawing curves, or maybe I suck at drawing curves, but at least it gives me an idea of what I'm doing. 
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Aug 13, 2022 03:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's a nice look, but rotate the grain on the side walls 90 degrees. Finger joints as displayed will have no strength. Thank you! The grain will be running lengthwise on the sidewalls, but I have no idea how to rotate the texture in Fusion 360. Edit: Turns out it was really simple and I was literally clicking the "appearance" button which was right above the texture mapping. Are the ends OK to be vertical like that, or should they be the same orientation as the sides? 
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Aug 13, 2022 |
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Aug 13, 2022 04:50
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Wallet posted:This is actually kind of interesting for a tool box. That's the case for a box-box because the lignin bonds are so much weaker than the fibers, but if most of the stress is coming from people trying to lift the toolbox by the handle with a bunch of heavy rear end tools in there you may actually want the wood oriented so that lifting by the handle is putting the fibers in tension instead of trying to delaminate them from each other. Expansion/contraction over time could do a number on those finger joints, though. I'm hoping there's enough meat above the handle for the grain to be horizontal and be fine, cause keeping those finger joints looking good is really the #1 concern. I've seen some designs inlay a vertical strip inside on the end that runs from the handle to the bottom, but that is beyond my skills.
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Aug 13, 2022 17:48
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Thanks for the advice earlier in this thread. Took a long while but I found the perfect walnut 4/4 slab and they had a ton of maple. Seems like the walnut they had was mostly in the 6-8" width and I was looking for somewhere 10-13". Ended up with 13" but I decided* to cut it down to 10". Handle is probably not going to have the curve I originally wanted due to time and I'm kinda scared of the router now for something that deep. It's like 1.25" wide. Just going to round over the edges.  Link to full: https://i.imgur.com/jokt32Y.jpg *The router decided for me by tearing out massively when the flush trim bit grabbed it. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Aug 22, 2022 |
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Aug 22, 2022 06:12
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I made a wooden dust pan. Why is your dustbin prettier than anything in my house?
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Aug 31, 2022 22:53
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Highly recommend the drill guide attachment if you can't swing a drill press. Gets a good 90* hole and even if you end up getting a drill press it's great for bringing a drill to the work on large pieces. They can even be used with forsener bits and I can clap mine down or screw it in if I need to for bigger bits. That said mine is about 20 years older than me and made of steel, I have zero idea what the current go to is.
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Oct 18, 2022 19:34
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Hypnolobster posted:It's not, amazingly enough. John Heisz did it like 6 years ago. Having seen what paper does to newly sharpened scissors, the only thing that surprised me is how slow the paper abrades away.
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Nov 21, 2022 22:46
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Serenade posted:Do table tops need aprons? I'm stuck at work the day before Thanksgiving, and thus thinking about projects instead of working on projects. No, you can absolutely make a flat table top. Aprons give some rigidity, but their main purpose is to make the top look thicker than it is.
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Nov 23, 2022 18:35
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CommonShore posted:
...I should go to garage sales apparently.
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Jun 23, 2023 18:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Tfw you’re staring at jigs you made 2 years ago trying to remember how they work ...and why are there so many screws? Using scraps from a prior toolbox project I'm making a very similar beer caddy. One thing I learned in this is I really need to sharpen my chisels. 
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Aug 29, 2023 07:17
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Sockser posted:Last year I bought a near little mortising jig for a trim router. Basically a bootleg Domino. Hooray. I'd just get a 6mm bit with a 1/4" shank. https://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-060-11-Straight-Diameter-ply-groove/dp/B000P4JMRS
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Oct 18, 2023 07:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I agree with Kaiser Schnitzel: most of the money in woodworking is in selling tools to aspirational carpenters. There's a never-ending supply of Hey, come on now! Some of us are burnt out in insurance.
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Mar 11, 2024 23:19
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