|
wormil posted:I'm not familiar with building saunas but aren't they hot, moist, environments anyway? All the saunas I've been in are dry saunas.
|
# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 02:37 |
|
|
# ¿ May 14, 2024 22:40 |
|
kaiger posted:Does the craftsman guarantee extend to drill bits? It's kind of a middle-ground between power and hand tools. I've got a quick-change Craftsman Pro set where one of the bits spins freely in its base. The website mentions nothing about bits in their warranty section, but this isn't broken from misuse so I might give it a shot. Consumables like saw blades and drill bits are not covered.
|
# ¿ Dec 31, 2010 17:41 |
|
I made myself a reasonably sturdy workbench. I got the recommended Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking. The first thing I want to do is make a file cabinet to replace the Office Depot POS particleboard thing I have that is disintegrating. I'd like to make something similar in style to this And while I have confidence that I can do the work right with the instructions on various procedures in the Taunton's, the book doesn't really give any help on when to use what kind of joints and what kinds of woods. Recommendations?
|
# ¿ Apr 25, 2011 23:45 |
|
Thanks for the advice! I'm going to get a case construction book first and then go from there. Also for literature recommendations... There is no end of guides for making shaker or mission style furniture, which I don't care about and dislike, respectively. Anyone know of good resources for someone who likes 30s-60s modern designs?
|
# ¿ Apr 26, 2011 17:26 |
|
For my first (and only) workbench, I use 4x4 legs with 2x4 stretchers and two half inch plywood sheets glued together as the top. Dead simple. It's not suitable as a reference surface but it's sturdy as a work surface.
|
# ¿ Aug 16, 2011 03:57 |
|
Bad Munki posted:I'd been meaning to properly sharpen my chisels as well. Picked up some sand paper (about $5 worth, various grits up to 2k) and a couple square feet of 1/4" plate glass ($5, it was scrap at a local glass & mirror shop). Looking forward to splitting hairs lengthwise or whatever the test is. The edge of the chisel should glow blue due to the air atoms being split as they touch it.
|
# ¿ Apr 7, 2012 04:00 |
|
Miniwax has some pink and red stains but I don't know how they'll look in your specific application.
|
# ¿ May 3, 2012 21:12 |
|
ChaoticSeven posted:Perfect cover story if discovered under a bed. "It's not what you think... I use it on fish" won't help.
|
# ¿ Jun 4, 2012 04:28 |
|
Magnus Praeda posted:Don't use pressure treated wood if you're planning on eating anything you grow in those beds. The plants will leech the chemicals and if you eat them, you get the chemicals in you. Not healthy. Specifically, chromium, copper, and arsenic. Not good things to build a garden out of.
|
# ¿ Jun 6, 2012 11:10 |
|
I just saw a Rigid lathe at the local Goodwill for $60. Not sure the model, but it looked like this. Is that worth picking up or is something like that not worth anything?
|
# ¿ Nov 28, 2012 14:56 |
|
Has anyone here used masking and stain to do fake inlay? If so, what do you use for masking that doesn't let the stain seep under and ruin crisp lines?
|
# ¿ Oct 22, 2013 16:40 |
|
dwoloz posted:What's the best way to cut multiple stacked pieces at a time with a bandsaw? I've been using packing tape but wondering if there's a better way How thick?
|
# ¿ Dec 18, 2013 23:53 |
|
dwoloz posted:Doing 3/8" pieces at the moment and at least 4 stacked I haven't done this with a bandsaw but for scrollsawing brad nails in the throwaway parts has been effective.
|
# ¿ Dec 19, 2013 00:09 |
|
Skinny Bins posted:I made three of these as Christmas presents for my nephews: Dumb question but what do you use to make the wheels?
|
# ¿ Jan 12, 2014 00:36 |
|
Does anyone have a good bandsaw blade selection guide, particularly which blade characteristics for which function (resawing, veneer, etc)?
|
# ¿ Jan 25, 2014 17:43 |
|
This question is about wood, but a little different. Anyway, I have an ancient mandoline, basically one of these I've sharpened the blades back to normal but the wood underneath has deteriorated a little so that the blade doesn't sit squarely, plus I don't know how many more times I can unscrew and rescrew the blades for sharpening before the holes strip. What can I do to repair that?
|
# ¿ Feb 2, 2014 04:39 |
|
Frogmanv2 posted:The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s. People who need to use metric use it, people who don't don't have to. Same with SI, cgs, and whatever other measuring systems are in use out there. It's not really a huge deal to use several different systems in different contexts.
|
# ¿ Feb 26, 2014 02:22 |
|
I recently bought a 120 year old house with over two dozen 120 year old wood windows. They range from "needs to be restained on the inside and repainted on the outisde" to "sash literally fell apart and glass is everywhere". There are cheesy and mostly warped/failed frame aluminum triple track storm windows caulked to the outside. So I'm rapidly finding myself way over my head, needing to learn to repair wood windows, rebuild windowsills, and build new wood frame screens and storms. Is there anyone in this thread with experience doing it or knows good comprehensive guides for this?
|
# ¿ Mar 14, 2014 19:03 |
|
asdf32 posted:Definitely get a set of Irwin quick clamps. Stores seem to be cheaper than online here. They're the easiest to use and you'll reach for them first. They also work one handed. I'm really glad I read this post before I thoughtlessly scrapped all the old gas pipe I just pulled.
|
# ¿ Apr 1, 2014 15:35 |
|
Which new Delta?
|
# ¿ Apr 24, 2014 20:19 |
|
wormil posted:The $600 one at Lowes. There are some reviews on Lumberjocks including one by a former engineer that is among the most thorough reviews I've ever read. The tldr version is the manual is poor but the saw is good. Cool. I've been looking at that one and the Craftsman 21833, and further investigation suggests that the Craftsman is basically a variation on the Ridgid R4512 with similar hit-or-miss alignment problem.
|
# ¿ Apr 29, 2014 00:19 |
|
Do I need a sliding miter saw? I have a circular saw and plan to get a table saw in the next 6 months. I'll need a miter saw sooner than that and I either will get a sliding compound miter saw or the Craftsman MiterMate. I have an old (100+) house with old plaster walls, so the MiterMate is very appealing. It's got a lot of good reviews on how nice it is for cutting trim to fit non-square wall angles. However, the MiterMate has a pretty shallow depth of cut and among the trim pieces on that house are 6" baseboards - not to mention any framing and other miter work in the future. So will the circular and table saw + the non-sliding miter saw take care of my needs or will I really kick myself for not getting the slider?
|
# ¿ May 6, 2014 21:24 |
|
Tora! Tora! Tora! posted:Quasi-related to windows: I think I mentioned way back at the beginning of the semester that I was working on some carriage doors from my garage. Well, the semester is over and here they are! I love the look, but how do you plan to overcome sag?
|
# ¿ May 10, 2014 04:23 |
|
TomR posted:I'm almost done this radio. I'm happy with how the finish turned out. I have some little details to take care of. And I need to get a matching set of knobs. What did you use for replacement fabric?
|
# ¿ May 22, 2014 01:47 |
|
BUGS OF SPRING posted:Ah thanks, I will check into that. I'm a newbie that knows nothing about this. I'm used to low end master craft stuff, but now that I finally have a garage Im trying to make a proper shop. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the MasterForce, Ridgid, and Craftsman are all the same table saw.
|
# ¿ May 30, 2014 20:50 |
|
BUGS OF SPRING posted:Mastercraft is a cheap Canadian Tire brand. I have a few of their tools I got from my parents and they are all really low quality. The table saw is frequently on saw for $100, and its rickety as all hell. I do not recommend them. Ah, I was thinking of Masterforce, which is the Menard's brand. You crazy Candians and your tire shop tools.
|
# ¿ May 30, 2014 21:02 |
|
jackpot posted:My grandfather was a woodworker, and when he died all of his equipment was passed on to my dad, who's doing good work and getting better every year. I want in on this sweet, sweet wood action, but the only space I have in the entire house is about 9x4 - and part of that is a water heater that I'll have to work around. Scrollsaw crafts? Visit your father more often?
|
# ¿ Jun 26, 2014 17:04 |
|
I just picked up the Delta 36-725 hybrid table saw, it's dual voltage capable. I already have to wire up outlets in my basement, is there any benefit to running a 240v circuit for the saw?
|
# ¿ Jun 27, 2014 15:30 |
|
Immanentized posted:Figured that this would be a good place to ask; my granddad saw it at a house he was staying at, and figured that there had to be plans for it on the internet. I took a picture assuming that plans for a symmetrical pendant lamp would be easy to find, but haven't had any luck. If anybody has any leads, I'd really appreciate it. You could trace it using vector software like Inkscape and enlarge it to whatever you need.
|
# ¿ Jul 6, 2014 17:03 |
|
Slugworth posted:Got another question about refinishing old doors. Add in wood windows and all the frames and I'm right there with you quote:But also, when I am using the belt sander on the doors to remove the poly, the poly keeps getting sort of gummed up, and I end up with long streaks of gummy goo all over the door, and then the belt gets all gummed up and useless. Am I correct in thinking this is related to the belt getting too hot, or does old poly just do that? Any way to avoid it? It might be the belt getting too hot. My refinishing efforts have involved a heat gun stripping off most of the paint and then using a random orbital to get the underlying varnish and stain off. I haven't had gumming issues like you describe so maybe the belt is hot?
|
# ¿ Jul 10, 2014 03:27 |
|
Slugworth posted:Oh yeah, I am doing every bit of trim in the house as well. 3-piece 7" oak base, casing, doors, window jams. I have given myself a little respite, in that I will only do the windows themselves at the very end, and only if I have it in me. They are hidden behind blinds, so gently caress it. Use brass rather than steel. Not just because steel is harsher, but it also can leave particles that rust. All my windows were painted and caulked shut so I have no choice but to do that first.
|
# ¿ Jul 10, 2014 04:05 |
|
Selachian posted:I've been cutting 2x4s with a circular saw. It works fine except for one thing -- every single cut is about an eighth of an inch away from where it should be. I measure, draw my line, align the saw with the line (it has a laser guide), and cut, and every time the actual cut is an eighth of an inch to the right of the line. I've tried ignoring the laser and using the notch on the saw base to line up instead, but the result is the same. Is there some way to fix this, or do I have to resign myself to measuring everything 1/8" short? Are you actually aligning the blade with your line? Like, touch the blade to the line and see how it matches with the notch.
|
# ¿ Aug 5, 2014 15:55 |
|
Sylink posted:I look like I'm fighting ebola whenever I use all the tools since I don't have dust collection beyond a broom. I just have a shop-vac for whichever tools have a dust port so I also have respirator, glasses, earmuffs, gloves, and bandanna.
|
# ¿ Sep 11, 2014 22:01 |
|
dhrusis posted:Is this because the shop vac is inefficient or some other reason? A shop vac is good for my power sanders but it really doesn't catch much from saws.
|
# ¿ Sep 11, 2014 22:46 |
|
wormil posted:I have a 9" bandsaw that is better than no bandsaw but bigger is better. I only paid $35 for it and it was worth every penny, lol. 'Beauty is truth, truth beauty,—that is all Ye know on earth, and all ye need to know.'
|
# ¿ Sep 15, 2014 19:18 |
|
ptier posted:I'm starting to look into carving (mainly spoons and basic stuff). Does anyone have a good recommendation for a straight carving knife and a hook knife to get started? I don't need anything crazy awesome, but ya know no Chinese crap that is gonna snap and stab me in the eye. Do you have a good book you'd recommend?
|
# ¿ Oct 8, 2014 22:54 |
|
wormil posted:So the urn is coming along. I'll post pics when I get time. I've always planned on adding legs or a base but I'm going round and round and being indecisive. Access will be through the bottom. Modern.
|
# ¿ Oct 18, 2014 03:04 |
|
His Divine Shadow posted:It's the only way I got to make non square cuts, a band saw is out of my reach so far. I am thinking of mounting it upside down in a table to get more controlled cuts. So an improvised scroll saw?
|
# ¿ Oct 25, 2014 16:44 |
|
Whale Cancer posted:I went to Lowes today and was browing the power saw section I have this one http://www.lowes.com/pd_36855-79992-PC13CSL_0__?productId=1208959 and I'm pretty happy with it.
|
# ¿ Oct 26, 2014 00:12 |
|
|
# ¿ May 14, 2024 22:40 |
|
evilskillit posted:Hey goons, I'm looking into picking up a table saw some time soon. Right now I mainly will be using it for building speakers, so cutting MDF, OSB, or plywood. Tho as time goes on maybe I'll get into working with hardwood some day. What's your price range? I'm really happy with the Delta that Lowe's is selling for $599.
|
# ¿ Nov 6, 2014 20:28 |