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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

wormil posted:

I'm not familiar with building saunas but aren't they hot, moist, environments anyway?

All the saunas I've been in are dry saunas.

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

kaiger posted:

Does the craftsman guarantee extend to drill bits? It's kind of a middle-ground between power and hand tools. I've got a quick-change Craftsman Pro set where one of the bits spins freely in its base. The website mentions nothing about bits in their warranty section, but this isn't broken from misuse so I might give it a shot.

Consumables like saw blades and drill bits are not covered.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I made myself a reasonably sturdy workbench.

I got the recommended Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking.

The first thing I want to do is make a file cabinet to replace the Office Depot POS particleboard thing I have that is disintegrating.

I'd like to make something similar in style to this


And while I have confidence that I can do the work right with the instructions on various procedures in the Taunton's, the book doesn't really give any help on when to use what kind of joints and what kinds of woods. Recommendations?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Thanks for the advice! I'm going to get a case construction book first and then go from there.

Also for literature recommendations... There is no end of guides for making shaker or mission style furniture, which I don't care about and dislike, respectively. Anyone know of good resources for someone who likes 30s-60s modern designs?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
For my first (and only) workbench, I use 4x4 legs with 2x4 stretchers and two half inch plywood sheets glued together as the top. Dead simple. It's not suitable as a reference surface but it's sturdy as a work surface.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Bad Munki posted:

I'd been meaning to properly sharpen my chisels as well. Picked up some sand paper (about $5 worth, various grits up to 2k) and a couple square feet of 1/4" plate glass ($5, it was scrap at a local glass & mirror shop). Looking forward to splitting hairs lengthwise or whatever the test is. :)

The edge of the chisel should glow blue due to the air atoms being split as they touch it.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Miniwax has some pink and red stains but I don't know how they'll look in your specific application.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

ChaoticSeven posted:

Perfect cover story if discovered under a bed.

"It's not what you think... I use it on fish" won't help.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Magnus Praeda posted:

Don't use pressure treated wood if you're planning on eating anything you grow in those beds. The plants will leech the chemicals and if you eat them, you get the chemicals in you. Not healthy.

Use cedar. It's long-lasting outdoors and won't poison you.

Specifically, chromium, copper, and arsenic. Not good things to build a garden out of.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I just saw a Rigid lathe at the local Goodwill for $60. Not sure the model, but it looked like this. Is that worth picking up or is something like that not worth anything?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Has anyone here used masking and stain to do fake inlay? If so, what do you use for masking that doesn't let the stain seep under and ruin crisp lines?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

dwoloz posted:

What's the best way to cut multiple stacked pieces at a time with a bandsaw? I've been using packing tape but wondering if there's a better way

How thick?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

dwoloz posted:

Doing 3/8" pieces at the moment and at least 4 stacked

I haven't done this with a bandsaw but for scrollsawing brad nails in the throwaway parts has been effective.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Skinny Bins posted:

I made three of these as Christmas presents for my nephews:



I'm also currently doing another level of schooling for my apprenticeship. My "big" project for this year is supposed to be a "mirror frame" that includes solid shaped curves as well and laminated ones. I haven't been particularly inspired by the concept and am totally stuck for ideas. If we were allowed to make something bigger (we're restricted to about 20" x 28") I'd make some sort of interesting furniture. Anybody have any ideas or places to look for ideas for this kind of project? It doesn't have to be a frame, that's just the simplest project that incorporates all the required elements.

Dumb question but what do you use to make the wheels?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Does anyone have a good bandsaw blade selection guide, particularly which blade characteristics for which function (resawing, veneer, etc)?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
This question is about wood, but a little different. Anyway, I have an ancient mandoline, basically one of these


I've sharpened the blades back to normal but the wood underneath has deteriorated a little so that the blade doesn't sit squarely, plus I don't know how many more times I can unscrew and rescrew the blades for sharpening before the holes strip. What can I do to repair that?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Frogmanv2 posted:

The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s.

It's ok though. It's not like any space ships have crashed because of it.

People who need to use metric use it, people who don't don't have to. Same with SI, cgs, and whatever other measuring systems are in use out there. It's not really a huge deal to use several different systems in different contexts. :shrug:

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I recently bought a 120 year old house with over two dozen 120 year old wood windows. They range from "needs to be restained on the inside and repainted on the outisde" to "sash literally fell apart and glass is everywhere". There are cheesy and mostly warped/failed frame aluminum triple track storm windows caulked to the outside. So I'm rapidly finding myself way over my head, needing to learn to repair wood windows, rebuild windowsills, and build new wood frame screens and storms. Is there anyone in this thread with experience doing it or knows good comprehensive guides for this?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

asdf32 posted:

Definitely get a set of Irwin quick clamps. Stores seem to be cheaper than online here. They're the easiest to use and you'll reach for them first. They also work one handed.

Locking c clamp like vice grip or Kreg

Jorgensen bar clamps or pipe clamps (though pipes arnt as cheap as you might hope).

Variety pack of spring clamps (though consider whether you really want the small ones which they throw in the variety packs to boost the numbers, I rarely use them but use my biggest two all the time).

Regular old C clamps are cheap but get the least use by me. Though they're useful for things like clamping the drill press vice down where I want it semi perminent and want a lot of force.

Harbor freight is definitely a good option, though except for Irwin above, nothing I suggested is very expensive for name brand (Jorgensen, Bessy, Vice Grip). But for clamps variety definitely trumps quality.

I'm really glad I read this post before I thoughtlessly scrapped all the old gas pipe I just pulled.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Which new Delta?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

wormil posted:

The $600 one at Lowes. There are some reviews on Lumberjocks including one by a former engineer that is among the most thorough reviews I've ever read. The tldr version is the manual is poor but the saw is good.

Cool. I've been looking at that one and the Craftsman 21833, and further investigation suggests that the Craftsman is basically a variation on the Ridgid R4512 with similar hit-or-miss alignment problem.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Do I need a sliding miter saw?
I have a circular saw and plan to get a table saw in the next 6 months. I'll need a miter saw sooner than that and I either will get a sliding compound miter saw or the Craftsman MiterMate. I have an old (100+) house with old plaster walls, so the MiterMate is very appealing. It's got a lot of good reviews on how nice it is for cutting trim to fit non-square wall angles. However, the MiterMate has a pretty shallow depth of cut and among the trim pieces on that house are 6" baseboards - not to mention any framing and other miter work in the future.

So will the circular and table saw + the non-sliding miter saw take care of my needs or will I really kick myself for not getting the slider?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Tora! Tora! Tora! posted:

Quasi-related to windows: I think I mentioned way back at the beginning of the semester that I was working on some carriage doors from my garage. Well, the semester is over and here they are!



I just finished up the rabbets for the windows tonight. They're freaking huge, 8' x 4', and made of cypress that I milled down from rough stock. Unfortunately, my garage was supposed to be mostly built by now and I haven't even broken ground on it yet. :( So they're sitting in my kitchen for the time being (they were really tough to maneuver out of the truck and into the kitchen by myself).

I love the look, but how do you plan to overcome sag?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

TomR posted:

I'm almost done this radio. I'm happy with how the finish turned out. I have some little details to take care of. And I need to get a matching set of knobs.


2014-82 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr

What did you use for replacement fabric?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

BUGS OF SPRING posted:

Ah thanks, I will check into that. I'm a newbie that knows nothing about this. I'm used to low end master craft stuff, but now that I finally have a garage Im trying to make a proper shop.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the MasterForce, Ridgid, and Craftsman are all the same table saw.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

BUGS OF SPRING posted:

Mastercraft is a cheap Canadian Tire brand. I have a few of their tools I got from my parents and they are all really low quality. The table saw is frequently on saw for $100, and its rickety as all hell. I do not recommend them.

Though the belt sander I have from them is great, but I guess its hard to screw that up.

Ah, I was thinking of Masterforce, which is the Menard's brand. You crazy Candians and your tire shop tools.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

jackpot posted:

My grandfather was a woodworker, and when he died all of his equipment was passed on to my dad, who's doing good work and getting better every year. I want in on this sweet, sweet wood action, but the only space I have in the entire house is about 9x4 - and part of that is a water heater that I'll have to work around.



The most I've done with wood is some light refinishing projects, just sanding and staining. I have access to routers, saws, clamps, and the like across town at my dad's, so that's a big bonus, but what tools and projects should I look into that I can use/make in a room this size? As an absolute beginner, what would you do if you had my piddly-rear end little space to work in? Whittle toothpicks until I get a bigger house?

Scrollsaw crafts?
Visit your father more often?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I just picked up the Delta 36-725 hybrid table saw, it's dual voltage capable. I already have to wire up outlets in my basement, is there any benefit to running a 240v circuit for the saw?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Immanentized posted:

Figured that this would be a good place to ask; my granddad saw it at a house he was staying at, and figured that there had to be plans for it on the internet. I took a picture assuming that plans for a symmetrical pendant lamp would be easy to find, but haven't had any luck. If anybody has any leads, I'd really appreciate it.



edit: Plans or a kit- he has all the tools, but his eyes are fading so he might not be 100% up for detail work.

You could trace it using vector software like Inkscape and enlarge it to whatever you need.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Slugworth posted:

Got another question about refinishing old doors.

Why am I putting myself through this?

Add in wood windows and all the frames and I'm right there with you :(

quote:

But also, when I am using the belt sander on the doors to remove the poly, the poly keeps getting sort of gummed up, and I end up with long streaks of gummy goo all over the door, and then the belt gets all gummed up and useless. Am I correct in thinking this is related to the belt getting too hot, or does old poly just do that? Any way to avoid it?

It might be the belt getting too hot. My refinishing efforts have involved a heat gun stripping off most of the paint and then using a random orbital to get the underlying varnish and stain off. I haven't had gumming issues like you describe so maybe the belt is hot?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Slugworth posted:

Oh yeah, I am doing every bit of trim in the house as well. 3-piece 7" oak base, casing, doors, window jams. I have given myself a little respite, in that I will only do the windows themselves at the very end, and only if I have it in me. They are hidden behind blinds, so gently caress it.

Thankfully the belt sander has had no issue with any of the trim so far. Just the doors for whatever reason.

And whoever suggested a steel brush for detail work earlier - You are a wonderful person.

Use brass rather than steel. Not just because steel is harsher, but it also can leave particles that rust.

All my windows were painted and caulked shut so I have no choice but to do that first.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Selachian posted:

I've been cutting 2x4s with a circular saw. It works fine except for one thing -- every single cut is about an eighth of an inch away from where it should be. I measure, draw my line, align the saw with the line (it has a laser guide), and cut, and every time the actual cut is an eighth of an inch to the right of the line. I've tried ignoring the laser and using the notch on the saw base to line up instead, but the result is the same. Is there some way to fix this, or do I have to resign myself to measuring everything 1/8" short?

Are you actually aligning the blade with your line? Like, touch the blade to the line and see how it matches with the notch.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Sylink posted:

I look like I'm fighting ebola whenever I use all the tools since I don't have dust collection beyond a broom.

I just have a shop-vac for whichever tools have a dust port so I also have respirator, glasses, earmuffs, gloves, and bandanna.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

dhrusis posted:

Is this because the shop vac is inefficient or some other reason?

A shop vac is good for my power sanders but it really doesn't catch much from saws.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

wormil posted:

I have a 9" bandsaw that is better than no bandsaw but bigger is better. I only paid $35 for it and it was worth every penny, lol.

On another subject, if someone asked for an urn with a natural look, what would that mean to you?

'Beauty is truth, truth beauty,—that is all
Ye know on earth, and all ye need to know.'

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

ptier posted:

I'm starting to look into carving (mainly spoons and basic stuff). Does anyone have a good recommendation for a straight carving knife and a hook knife to get started? I don't need anything crazy awesome, but ya know no Chinese crap that is gonna snap and stab me in the eye.

Do you have a good book you'd recommend?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

wormil posted:

So the urn is coming along. I'll post pics when I get time. I've always planned on adding legs or a base but I'm going round and round and being indecisive. Access will be through the bottom.

Attached is the profile. Any suggestions?



Modern.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

His Divine Shadow posted:

It's the only way I got to make non square cuts, a band saw is out of my reach so far. I am thinking of mounting it upside down in a table to get more controlled cuts.

So an improvised scroll saw?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Whale Cancer posted:

I went to Lowes today and was browing the power saw section :getin:

Would this be fine for babies first circular saw
http://www.lowes.com/pd_305484-353-HD5687-01_4294607773__?productId=3031987&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_price%7C0%26page%3D1&facetInfo=

Or would the basic $40 guy be ok
http://www.lowes.com/pd_300243-353-5380-01_4294607773__?productId=3031527&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_price%7C0%26page%3D1&facetInfo=

I have this one http://www.lowes.com/pd_36855-79992-PC13CSL_0__?productId=1208959 and I'm pretty happy with it.

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

evilskillit posted:

Hey goons, I'm looking into picking up a table saw some time soon. Right now I mainly will be using it for building speakers, so cutting MDF, OSB, or plywood. Tho as time goes on maybe I'll get into working with hardwood some day.

So the question is what's a good cheap table saw in 2015? I don't have tons to spend, so I'm looking at either entry level but not lovely, or used. Right now Home Depot has their Ridgid portable unit on sale for $100 off, I hear good things about that brand...

What's your price range? I'm really happy with the Delta that Lowe's is selling for $599.

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