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Tool question time! I've been building up a simple home shop to work on odds and ends, but I'm still lacking a table saw. I have a very limited space, and the bulk of a decent table saw keeps putting me off, as essential as it is. So far I've been able to come up with alternative methods to build simple things, but I'm hitting a capability wall pretty fast. I've got a one car garage to work with, and it already has too much stuff. I'm renting the place so I can't make any serious modifications, and I also can't remove some of the stuff that's filling it up. My main questions is: is a tablesaw so important that I should find or make a way to shoehorn it in? If I get a fairly small one, will I be giving up so much power and table surface that it isn't worth it?
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Feb 8, 2014 02:28
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the spyder posted:Well, it comes down to what are you going to do with it? Build cabinets? Boxes? Dimension rough sawn lumber? (I'm guessing no, haha.) You guessed it, I won't be doing any crazy lumber dimensioning on it. How about this guy: http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/4313356784.html Obviously actually buying used is condition dependent but this one looks decent. It's also a few days old so I'll give the guy a call in the morning. The rolling stand is pretty much what I'd build for it anyway too. I know what you mean about a good track saw, I borrowed one awhile back and it was awesome for plywood work. Slugworth: I've already got a circular saw and a homemade track for it, but its only so capable. The real thing would be much better.
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Feb 8, 2014 04:18
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the spyder posted:If it will fit a 8" dado stack, offer him $300 cash. Home Depot just cleared out the Dewalt equiv for $250 last week. I almost bought one, but I have a 56' Atlas 10" Cabinet saw sitting in Olympia. HD isn't still selling that is it? I was just there the other day too, didn't think to look at powertools, dammit. Good point on the dado capacity. I'll call the guy and find out if it's worth my trouble (and money).
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Feb 8, 2014 05:07
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nosleep posted:Does anyone know of good plans/instructions for making a bench top router table? I haven't really been able to find much on YouTube and there seem to be lots of plans/options out there just searching google but just curious if anyone knew of one that they liked and had good plans available. I don't really have a shop so a bench top version is better so I can move it around and clamp it to my portable worktable. You're in luck, I've been working on that same problem. I had to build mine to break down for storage, so I mounted it off the edge of a work table.  I added a premade router lift and plate, but I had a homemade mounting plate on it for awhile and it worked fine. I'm not super happy with my fence, I'm going to be remaking it much taller and more actually square this time. Are you trying to make the whole thing? Are you going to make a fence, mounting system, etc? Also, do you want complete plans or are you going to customize it? This one is pretty simple, and it'd be easy to modify the plan a little bit to suit whatever your needs are: http://www.handymanclub.com/Portals/0/uploadedfiles/Router-Table.pdf
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Feb 9, 2014 07:02
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nosleep posted:The plan you linked is actually one that I found and it's the one I like the most that seems most straight forward/effective. I'm still fairly new to woodworking so it would definitely be a project but I would probably learn a lot. The plans use biscuits which I don't have a biscuit joiner, so it may just be a little harder to get things aligned perfectly. It uses a premade plate which I'm willing to buy, but I don't think it has a lift. How would you raise and lower the bit in a table like this? Before I had the lift I made a plate that took the place of the stock baseplate. Since I was still using the router's base, I just used the built in adjustment threading. Basically I did this: http://www.wwgoa.com/shop-made-router-base-plates/ I've used the circle cutter jig he shows as well.
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Feb 13, 2014 05:57
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rotor posted:heya guys Plywood or hardboard isn't the worst option if you get something half-decent. Obviously you won't get the sweet planed down 2x3 edges, but it provides a nice cheap sacrificial surface that you can always replace later if/when it gets all beat up and covered in god knows what. And if you change your mind, just rip it off and plane it down sometime in the future.
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Mar 10, 2014 07:59
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wormil posted:Buy a house with separate building you can use for woodworking. My shop is 16x20 but I only use half so about 16x10. It's a little cramped but I have a table saw, band saw, drill press, lathe, dust collector, planer, and 2 workbenches that will soon be torn out; and still I've built a dining table and some cabinets in addition to side tables and other small projects. Can you post a picture of your space? I've got a similarly sized space to work with and I've been struggling to make it work as I build my shop capacity.
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Apr 20, 2014 20:27
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wormil posted:I'm out of town, when I get back I will try to get a good picture or barring that, the floor plan. Awesome, thanks. I've been working on new piece for my garage that'll be a combo tablesaw outfeed and router table, so when I finish that I'll get a good picture of my whole setup to compare.
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Apr 21, 2014 07:47
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wormil posted:In the meantime... as you walk in door... the TS is in the center. Drill, DC, lathe to the left. Lathe is in the floor space right now and will eventually go somewhere else. There are 2 wall workbenches, one left and blocked by the lathe, the other against the wall next to door. Bandsaw is left between door and workbench. All other machines move around. Sheet goods are against right wall. Wood storage is in the back half of the shop which I plan to clean out and use someday. Building anything big means doing all the assembly at once, finishing, then getting it the hell out. TS is also a workbench. You can see why I mostly do small projects because big ones are doable but inconvenient. As promised awhile back, here's my one car garage shop setup. I was waiting to get my tablesaw rolling table finished enough (in foreground of first pic) to rearrange the whole space to how you see it. It's still a jumbled mess after my reshuffle and cleanup, but it's much better than it was before. I've also learned that MDF is the devil and I plan on never working with it again unless I have a world class dust collection system. I've worked in the driveway as much as possible but still coated everything in the garage with brown powder despite having vacuums running as much as possible. It also clogs the filters on the vacuums so fast they end up turning into dust sources themselves. I made all of the tables you see, starting with the long one along the left wall. At the time I didn't have the miter saw yet, so if you saw it in person it's wonky as hell. Then I gradually built up the wheeled miter saw stand, the router table that's on the end of the long table (covered in poo poo but you can see the fence), and soon I'll be adding some sort of storage unit for all of my stock. I also plan on moving the router lift from the corner piece it's on now to be integrated in the tablesaw outfeed table.  
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May 11, 2014 06:11
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Sylink posted:I lack a good table saw and/or miter saw for precision cuts so I would end up with a nonsquare piece of a poo poo. I only have a bench saw built into my work bench but it is definitely not as accurate as I would like. I'll end up buying one to start and building one at a later time. The kreg bench router table looks decent actually. You could also look into just buying the router lift or mounting plate, then build the table itself. That's the route I went and it's worked out great. At the time I didn't have a tablesaw either, just a lovely circular saw and a whole bunch of plywood. Maybe you should consider getting a table or miter saw before the router setup, depending on what work you plan to do in the near future.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:26
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stabbington posted:Crosscut Hardwoods at 4100 1st Ave S. in Sodo is always a good bet, and I'm pretty sure they carry walnut ply normally. Decent prices in general, and a lot of stuff you just can't get anywhere else. I just went down there for the first time a couple weekends ago and was pretty impressed. I'm still learning my way around all the hardwoods so it was a little overwhelming, but I'll definitely be going back when I need something specific. On another note, my current project: 
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Sep 25, 2014 02:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:Now that's cool. I'd imagine they could be painted in all sorts of colors too, wooden shades, new trend? They've been around for awhile but most of the one's I've seen are just laser cut in a flat pattern, sometimes out of plywood even. I'm planning on giving it a darkish stain then polyurethaning the hell out of it. It was surprisingly easy to make these with just a bandsaw and belt sander plus alot of patience.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:11
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I've got a quick question related to the sunglass project I posted earlier. I'm planning on using a dark stain on them, then putting a top coat over that. What coating (shellac, polyurethane, etc) should I use if I want a high gloss finish that safe to have touching my face regularly? Also, does anyone know of a place to find for the temples? My fallback plan is to tear some out another pair of glasses, but I'd prefer to get new ones. The only source I've come across is a Chinese website that has minimum orders of like 15 pairs, and the shipping costs more than the parts. I've tried a couple of eyeglass shops hoping they had spare parts but didn't have any luck. I'll keep pressing on that front unless someone has a better idea.
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Oct 5, 2014 01:22
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Jointer or thickness planer? I have a thickness planer, and it's super handy...but I still haven't learned to use a regular hand plane properly. Are you trying to do this with a loose router or a router table? I've done exactly what you described with my router table and a .063" sheet of steel. The only downsides are that the max thickness you can joint is however tall your longest bit it, and that I never incorporated a featherboard or other forcing method so sometimes the workpiece can lift off the bit a little bit and force me to make another pass to clean it up.
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Oct 10, 2014 04:39
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bimmian posted:That sounds interesting, don't see any reason it wouldn't work, but I haven't used a biscuit joiner in years so I might be forgetting something. I did exactly what you're describing and it works great. My shop is super tiny so every bit of space is precious, and keeping dust down is super important. I've just used the hose from the shopvac instead of dedicated tubing so I can disconnect it and use for other things. The whole thing was slapped together in an hour or so, so it looks like hell and could be much more elegant. I'm using the 10' long 2-1/2" diameter hose from Woodcraft. I highly recommend the threaded adapters for the end like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB826IU/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1 
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Oct 11, 2014 21:43
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm revamping my homemade shop vac before I am starting on the DC project so it won't be such a huge clumsy lump in my shop. Took some inspiration from woodgears again and the V1 dust collector he made, I feel like I am turning into a woodgears shill. Do you have some sort of airlock or seal at the bottom of the cyclone? Does the garbage can fit up tightly to the green disc under the cyclone somehow that's not obvious in your pictures? The way you have it set up the vacuum is pulling air from both the inlet end and the bottom of the cyclone.
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May 2, 2015 05:05
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One Legged Ninja posted:Don't try using one of those while holding the wood. Clamp it down firmly. They are not forgiving. Thirding this. Clamp the poo poo out of it to your drill press table. Also rotate the cutter a couple times by hand to make sure it doesn't hit the clamps, its easy to do if you have a small workpiece.
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May 3, 2015 19:35
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was going to try and wet and bend some plywood but that didn't turn out very well, soaked them for a day+ and they still crack when bent. I assume there's gotta be steam or boiling water for this to work, not just water? What kind of plywood and how much are you trying to bend it? Does it need to be structural? If not can you get away with kerf bending?
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May 3, 2015 19:37
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I started asking about this in the Discord but I have more focused questions now. I moved into a new place a few months ago and it's white everywhere. The walls, the trim, the countertops, cabinets, tile, literally everything. I want to get this done well from the get-go so things actually match around the house. I'm planning to start un-whiteing it by adding wood trim to places that don't have trim, and eventually replacing the existing making GBS threads trim to match. Since all the premade trim I can find is white or totally unfinished, I need to figure out a plan to finish everything. I've already started color experimenting with a couple of sample pieces of pine and red oak with a few misc stains I had lying around and will continue to do that with new wood and stain samples as I find decent options. Based on the descriptions gel stain seems like a great option for ease of use and because it'll help avoid the blotchiness that comes with most cheaper woods (pine, hemlock). Does anyone have experience with gel stains and can recommend one? Regardless of what color and species I end up with I'll need to have a protective finish. I was reading Flexners book but he doesn't recommend specific brands very much. In the Discord chat I was recommended Emmet's Good Stuff. Is that considered a gel varnish? Is it appropriate for large scale application on trim or is it overkill? loving finish labeling sucks so bad.
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Jun 30, 2020 06:49
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Is it normal for cut maple to smell like its burning? I'm doing a project with some and made a few test cuts, and after I took my respirator off the whole shop smelled like burned wood. My miter saw blade is plenty sharp and there were no burn marks on any of the fairly clean cuts.
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Jul 19, 2020 01:47
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Can it be burning even though there's no burn marks on the work pieces? It is heavy as gently caress though, I keep doing a doubletake when I pick up the stock after working with cheap pine or at most poplar, which look pretty similar.
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Jul 19, 2020 02:08
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality clear finish? Someone recommended Emmet's Good Stuff which looks fantastic but seems to not be in stock anywhere at the moment. I'd like to stick with a gel like Emmet's if possible but I have projects that need finishing and I'd rather not wait for it to reappear.
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Jul 21, 2020 19:43
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According to the bandsaw setup video someone linked recently the best general purpose blade is a 3tpi 1/2" skip tooth. I have a relatively small saw (10", 72-1/2" long) and I can barely find skip tooth blades in any TPI. Does anyone have a good source for blades or should I just find the nearest thing to the ideal?
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Dec 11, 2020 19:41
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Leperflesh posted:
I'd like to use it for small woodworking projects with hardwoods and some softwoods for things like large curves, notching corners, or other irregular cuts that are impractical or impossible on the table or miter saw. I've had a bandsaw for awhile but barely use it because of the horrible surface finish and I've never been able to get one to track even vaguely straight. I recently aquired this 10" saw after having an even smaller one for awhile and I'd like to set it up well. The blade on it needs replacing anyway. I'm pretty sure it'll take a 1/2" blade because the info plates on it give tensioning and curve info for that size. If I can get it tuned well I'll probably try stuff like light duty resawing.
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Dec 11, 2020 21:33
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Thanks for all the bandsaw advice everyone. I won't stress over the blade choice too much and will focus the setup.
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Dec 12, 2020 20:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:Metalworking tools can be quite handy for woodworking, no problems with a DRO to make two identical slots on each side of the catapults. What is a mill but a really well controlled router? Or is a router a free range mill?
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Dec 17, 2020 06:05
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Finish my english workbench, its about half done right now (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/knockdown-english-workbench/) Improve my general shop storage situation Convert my kitchen cabinets to glass panel Add trim to several windows Change other trim to match Build a cloths drying rack Build a swinging TV mounting arm Build a couple picture frames Make a shitload of wall mount shelves These are just the projects that involve wood specifically... Speaking of trim like molding, window casings, etc. what's a good finish to use? Just standard polyurethane? Some heavy duty flooring finish so I can do one coat? Because I pretty much have to work in a 1 car garage I'd rather avoid spray setups if possible, but I've heard HVLP's are pretty easy and clean to use. Between the various bits of trim I want to add/swap, plus the large amount of shelving, I have alot of surface to finish so I'm trying to find something efficient.
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Jan 3, 2021 05:18
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AFewBricksShy posted:Progress on the bar. I'm at about 98% done. What brand and color of green is that on the walls?
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Jan 7, 2021 04:31
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AFewBricksShy posted:Benjamin Moore Webster Green. Dammit now you've got me rethinking the whole color scheme I had planned.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:55
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I have this old No 6 Stanley that was in a pile of junk of my grandfathers that I'm having trouble with. When it's all sharpened up it works great, but if anything hits the blade hard enough it shift upward relative to the chip breaker. It's been happening repeatedly hitting knots trying to flatten the workbench I'm building (cheap wood) I'm tightening it until the chip breaker bottoms out, and I've got the frog on as tight as possible as well. Is there anything I can do to secure it better?  Block plane in the background for scale. edit: On closer inspection its not a Stanley, but someone replaced the iron itself with a Stanley one. oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Jan 8, 2021 |
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Jan 8, 2021 06:34
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No oil but the surfaces are a bit pitted. I gave them a wire brushing when I got it but didn't thoroughly derust it. Chipbreaker screw is tight enough to bottom out the chipbreaker on the iron, and I've got the lever cap tight and even tighten the screw more after engaging the lever.
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Jan 8, 2021 07:22
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Leperflesh posted:I think there's a chance you have a franken-plane, e.g. not all the parts match. Maybe someone replaced a screw with another screw that is too short or the wrong geometry? Also it may be a stanley/bailey plane even if there are no Stanley markings in the cast iron: use these sites for guidance. Thanks for the links, I might have narrowed it down a bit. The iron itself is most likely a Stanley type 6 because of the "STANLEY PAT APL 19, 92". The rest of the parts I'm less sure about, but based on this link I think it's an Ohio Tool Company model based on this link. The evidence I have is the model number style and position, the shape of the frog, the twisted one piece adjustment lever, and a very slight maroon color that might be a remnant of the original red paint.    As for my original issue, I have the chip breaker as tight to to the iron as it will go, and I get the lever cap plenty tight as well. I'm not convinced the frog is the original either, it doesn't seem to sit right on the bed as seen in the last picture. I've got it shifted all the way forward and there's still a pretty good sized gap to the throat.   edit: oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 22:37
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Leperflesh posted:Thanks for uploading pics! Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I knew something was up as soon as I saw the doubled washers, thats a halfassed fix job hallmark. If it weren't so badly chipped up and the slots already at their extents, I'd be tempted to mill out the slot larger. If that frog is even ~1/8" further towards the throat I'll bet it would work. I'm not overly attached to this plane but it'd be super handy if I could get it working well. It already works half decent even with the damage and mismatched parts. Is this frog likely to work? Seems to match from what I can see not crazy expensive. Next I'll post some pictures of the transitional Stanley #4 (I think) that I need to fab a replacement part for.
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Jan 12, 2021 07:32
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Leperflesh posted:Looks like the right design. I've not verified your identification of your plane (I can't, really) although it does seem reasonable; nor can I verify the seller's ID of the part, but if you're both right then it should work. $15 + $10 shipping seems OK? I'll have to think about then. Thanks again for the help!
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Jan 12, 2021 08:42
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I was lazy and just bought a counter top to go with the legs.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:41
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I've been planing doug fir all week for my new work bench and its awful. I get a good shaving if: I'm going along the grain in the wood's preferred direction (like Falco is getting at), I'm not running over knots, and I haven't dulled the blade way down by slamming it into too many knots recently. Even then I get random tearout in places. The knots also get cut less each pass, so they inevitably end up as high spots. I resorted to periodically switching to a block plane and shaving down just the knots. Definitely try it on decent hardwood before you get too dispirited. Even a less knotty piece of pine or something will be less frustrating. Doublecheck your technique of course, and it sounds like you know the go to resources already.
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Jan 14, 2021 07:50
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Bandsaws for cutting meat are absolutely a thing though. I once used my small bandsaw to cut a huge block of frozen ground beef in half. I was trying to avoid defrosting the whole block. Took me an hour to get all the bits of meat out of the tight spaces in the saw. They didn't stay frozen very long. I do not recommend doing this.
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Jan 26, 2021 20:05
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How easy/hard is cherry to dye stain consistently? I just finished a project with maple and it was a pain in the rear end to keep it consistent.
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Jan 29, 2021 07:23
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Big Dick Cheney posted:I am trying to build a bassinet for our baby that will arrive soon and so far I have the basket part done. I have a question about the physics of swinging. Like someone else said, the speed that it will swing at is determined by the length between the pivot point and the center of gravity of the swinging mass. Longer distance = slower swing. Weight doesn't affect the rate at all. If you want to get all mathy here's the equation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pendulum#Period_of_oscillation The 'L' in that equation is the distance I'm talking about. If you make a best guess at where the CoG of the cradle+baby is I'll bet you can pretty accurately predict the swinging rate. No idea what rate babies prefer. Maybe get a collection of eye bolts with different lengths so you can tune it?
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Feb 8, 2021 19:09
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Sadi posted:A couple dumb rear end questions. I have no back ground in wood work, though a reasonable amount in machine work. If you want to keep the wood looking as natural as possible look into polyurethane topcoats. There's a bunch of variations but the basic oil or water based type work great. Oil based will yellow very slightly and water based is nearly clear but both don't change the look of the wood very much. Polyurethane should be more durable than the "oil" options you listed. Side note - stain and finish product naming is incredibly misleading sometimes so don't assume the label is an accurate description of what it is. Stick to satin finish unless you want the plasticy look. I made a butcher block desk recently too and it works great, I hope you enjoy yours!
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Feb 22, 2021 17:40
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