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c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

I have an old Solar Electric Water Heater and its time for it to get out of my life. I'm tempted to DIY the replacement with an Hybrid Electric Water Heater. The old installation is a bit questionable in terms of a few things and I was hoping I could get some feedback on my general plan and any things that I'm missing before I make my detailed plan with drawings and measurements and parts list. I also plan on shifting the location of the new water heater about 3 ft down the wall from the original installation. Just to be clear. The prior installation was not by me.

Removal of Old Water Heater
  • Cut power via the breaker
  • Drain liquid/coolant from the solar system. There is a drain.
  • Remove the solar system pipes. Cut back the piping to the ceiling and leave rest of system for professional to remove from roof.
  • Shutoff cold water supply
  • Drain Hot Water Heater
  • Cut piping going to Hot Water Heater
  • Disconnect power
  • Remove Hot Water Heater

Prep for New Water Heater
  • PEX from cold water to new location
  • New shutoff for cold water
  • PEX from hot water to new location
  • Use MC Modular Whip cable to connect metal electrical box on wall to the new location. (Current install just has non-armored cable... Will make separate post in the electrical thread about this.)
  • Get Drain pan in place (Current install has no drain pan...)
  • Replace solid room door with louvered door for airflow

Install New Water Heater
  • finalize PEX connections to cold water and hot water heater
  • finalize PEX connections to hot water and hot water heater
  • finalize electrical connections in the metal electrical box
  • Hookup condensate drain line to the washing machine drainpipe
  • Check for leaks by turning on cold water supply
  • Run hot water in house to fill tank and purge lines
  • Restore power to hot water heater
  • Success?

I know that PEX can't be part of the last 18 inches to the hot water heater. But I understand that I can use those braided threaded connections for the last length. Is PEX a bad idea? Essentially it would be copper to PEX to stainless steel flexible line to hot water heater.

Some photos.

Top of old water heater


Hot/Cold Water Lines. They got to the floor.


Solar System...


Solar Piping

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c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Bank posted:

I've done two water heaters before (not a plumber) -- our of curiosity why PEX and not copper? You don't necessarily have to sweat pipe, I used shark bite fittings and the whole thing took me 6 hours the first time, the second time was probably 3.

Unknown fear of sharkbite fittings/internet fear mongering is probably the only reason. Even doing the PEX, I would be sweating a copper to PEX fitting. Should I not be so afraid of sharkbite fittings?

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Ah cool, thanks for the link. I was looking for those flexible copper guys on like Lowes/HD and only found stainless steel braided.

Yea, no gas for me and I would definitely not be trying to DIY that. The louvered doors is a requirement for the hybrid heatpump electric water heater if it is in a room smaller than 700 sqft. Alternatively, in the future that wall is shared with the garage so I can ultimately duct it to pull air from the garage.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

I'm not adverse to using copper piping; but, I am moving the water heater about 3 ft or so away from its current location. So I'll need to do a run from the current location to the new one which would end up being approximately 8ft of new line for both hot and cold since I'll need to route along the wall nicely. PEX would at least let me do any fittings with crimps and its flexible leaving me room for error. Copper would have to have sweated connections or sharkbites. The way I see it, if the PEX has a leak I'll have the tools and most likely extra lines/crimps to fix it easily without breaking a torch out or getting another sharkbite fitting.

I'll probably end up pricing out the difference and making a financial choice. Either way means new tools.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

I think the installer CRANKED on this shower head when they installed it. I have a Kohler HydroRail-R (https://www.kohler.com/en/products/showers/shop-shower-fittings/hydrorail-r-arch-shower-column-45211?skuId=45211-CP) and I want to replace the showerhead and use it in another bathroom. While removing the old showerhead it brought the adapter with it and I can't figure out how to remove the adapter from the old shower head without resorting to violence.



The part circled in red is in the showerhead. It should have stayed with the arm.

Any ideas?

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

PurpleXVI posted:

Usually those have a six-sided interior that you can get a hex key into, which should make it somewhat easier to liberate from the shower head.

If not, what's sticking it together may not be the installer loving it up, just as likely its limescale gluing them together, so dunking them in a solution of citric acid might make them easier to get apart(citric because it'll dissovlve the limescale without also dissolving rubber gaskets and chromed surfaces).

Yea, nothing inside to use a hex key against. It could be limescale as you mentioned, the shower head has a bunch of it. Would vinegar work to let it soak in a bit?

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Huh, good thing I emailed Kohler Support. They're sending me a replacement fitting. So if I need to violence the fitting out it won't be a big deal. They also recommended the 50/50 vinegar and water; but I'll go with the citric acid.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Just installed a new Delta Chamberlain faucet and it appears there is a drip from the hot water side. Went to try to check out the cartridge and I can't figure out how this is supposed to be removed. It appears that that white threaded part that held the handle on surround the actual bonnet nut.

*Edit - Nevermind, a strap wrench got it. That whole thing comes off.

c355n4 fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 22, 2023

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Starting to repaint the walls/clean out the laundry room and I found this tucked away in the corner behind stuff. What the heck is this? The hot water heater is to the right and the laundry machine is to the left. Both of them have their water inlet/outlet pipes coming from the floor though.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

There is a bathroom on the other side of that wall. Good to know that is there I guess. How can I make it nicer or more finished looking? It stands proud of the drywall.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

(I am the homeowner)

I think this counts as plumbing? I'm in the process of doing the floor and repainting a laundry room and need to move the gas dryer out. I have to disconnect the gas line in order to do this and I want to make sure I have all the steps down before I attempt this.

- Shutoff gas / Verify
- Remove current flexible hose
- Do the work
- Install new hose
- Test for leaks

Should I be worried about this shutoff? Can I verify the gas is off by just running the dryer?

Tape that comes with the gas line kit should be fine? Is this kit OK? https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN/5013929095

Any tips/warnings/jokes?

c355n4 fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Aug 15, 2023

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Motronic posted:

You don't use teflon tape on the hoses. That's only there for the pipe thread side of the adapters, which you probably won't need so don't take the one off of that valve.

Gotcha.

Forgot to add test for leaks at the end.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Debating if I want to fix this myself. Seems easy enough.



It looks like the gaskets essentially failed? Are the sink traps relatively standard? Or should I remove this old one and bring it with me to the store? Anything I should be aware of/tips?

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

KillHour posted:

Hope this is the right thread. After a trip to Japan, my wife has fallen in love with the crazy toilets they have over there and is demanding we get one. I'd like to get one with all the bells and whistles - heated seat, heated bidet, self cleaning, etc. - but I don't want to drop twice what I need to on something in the "more money than sense" category. Does anyone have recommendations for good brands/product lines that will hold up and make my wife's butt happy without being priced as if it's made of solid gold?

I have Toto toilets and the seats. They have a few different price points for the bidet seats. Toto's bidet seats should fit on other manufacturer's toilets. Bio Bidet is also seemingly well regarded? I've never used one or had one though.

Oh, you do need to clean the bidet seats regularly. Just something to remember.

c355n4 fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Feb 5, 2024

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

KillHour posted:

This might fit into the "more money than sense" category, but I don't want an after-market seat. I want a full toilet with everything built-in. I'm okay with installing it.

I was looking at Toto because they do a lot of commercial stuff, and they seemed popular in Japan. The Kohler stuff looks like they hired the guys that make pre-built gaming PCs with all the RGB unicorn vomit.

Edit: That said, this one seems fairly reasonable - https://www.kohler.com/en/products/toilets/shop-toilets/innate-one-piece-elongated-smart-toilet-dual-flush-29777-pa?skuId=29777-PA-0

Oh, you want one of those super fancy ones! Small anecdote story, friend got one of those fancy Toto toilets with the automatic raising seat. Only problem is that their toilet faces the bedroom, and it constantly goes up and down when they walk past the bathroom. It also pre-sprays the toilet bowl.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

StormDrain posted:

Toilet Chat:


For my next bathroom I think I'll opt for a Toto Drake II with a Washlet on it despite enjoying this one. I tried one out at a friends house and I particularly like having saved settings.

This is exactly what I have. A Toto Drake II with a Toto K300 seat. It's worked flawlessly for 6ish years.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Outdoor hose spigot leaks. Can I just get a sanity check before I attempt this fix?

1. Shut off the water from the spigot
2. Undo the nut with the blue arrow?
3. Find "washer" remnants.
4. Try to identify and find replacements.

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c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

kid sinister posted:

Leaks where? Out the spout or out the stem?

The stem. Seeps out the nut with the blue arrow. Both the top and bottom.

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