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My water heater is leaking a bit. I'm excited, because I've been looking forward to replacing it with a tankless unit for a long time. Any recommendations on brands for tankless water heaters?
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Feb 24, 2017 01:26
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Qwijib0 posted:rinnai Never heard of it, but the reviews are decent on this model: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rinnai-Super-High-Efficiency-7-5-GPM-160-BTU-Indoor-Natural-Gas-Tankless-Water-Heater/999959665 Definitely going to go with a Super High Efficiency unit, that was a great decision on my furnace, plus the tax credits, of course. I'm most likely going to get professional installation, if only because it makes getting the credits easier in MA. Anything else I should know about selecting a tankless unit?
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Feb 24, 2017 15:13
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Turd Herder posted:You have to have a water softener. And your in coming ground water temperature will affect the GPM rating it can produce. A whole-house filter is not enough? (currently using GE FXHTC filters) I do have hard water, but as long as I replace the filter on schedule it hasn't been a problem.
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Feb 24, 2017 16:24
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Ok, if I were to add a water softener, does it go before or after the filter?
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Feb 24, 2017 19:35
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My old man told me that in Vermont, they are requiring some kind of special mixing valve to be installed on top of water heaters (I think it's an anti-scald device?). He also said that it cost him $600 to get one installed. I've never heard of such a thing. Is this a wide-spread requirement?
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Feb 27, 2017 19:56
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Water? Is it a furnace or a boiler?
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Mar 1, 2017 22:48
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Sorry man, I wasn't busting on you, I'm just a little spergy about terminology, and was genuinely confused. Here is one more factor to consider: Both propane and oil are delivered products, so you need to evaluate the local availability and price. Where I live, there are a million oil companies competing for you delivery business, but virtually no one has propane tanks, so I'm guessing that propane would be a more expensive then it might be elsewhere, and potentially have a longer delivery lead time, as well.
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Mar 2, 2017 16:13
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Does my old, dead water heater have any scrap value? Any copper in there?
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Mar 7, 2017 05:04
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loving hell. I finally borrow a truck, buy my water heater at Home Depot, bring it home. Three days later my old man shows up to help me install it, and we open the box. Two HUGE loving dents in it, looks like they dropped it off of the top shelf. And yet no damage to the box? Now I have to do it all over again, starting with borrowing the truck...
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Mar 16, 2017 19:49
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Jadunk posted:The real tip is to buy from a plumbing supplier instead of a big box store. Yup. I had a guy lined up that I wanted to use, he said that the Rheem water heaters he supplied were "better then the crap at Home Depot". But I had a $300 credit from Home Depot, and I'm kind of broke, so this was the cheapest out of pocket solution. The replacement one they got down for us had a hole punched in it. Thankfully, I noticed this one right away, since there was a hole in the box right over it. The third (and final) one on the shelf had no damage, though. EDIT: I spent a little more and got the Energy Star model, because I get a MA rebate. It's got one of those auto dampers, so I have to plug it in. Anyone install any of these yet? How new is it? Squashy Nipples fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 21, 2017 |
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Mar 21, 2017 17:54
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I love my brand new Rheem water heater... but now it keeps shutting off. Seven flashes, three second pause: "System in Lockout/Presence of Flammable Vapors detected" Unit is in an open, mostly furnished basement with good ventilation, and NO source of fumes. First time I called the 800 number, I was told the reset: turn unit off and then on, and then turn the temp dial all the off, then all the way on, 7 times. After a lengthy discussion, the tech tells me that the problem is THE loving CAT BOX, which is kept about 10 feet away. Apparently cat litter dust is a hydrocarbon? It first happened after about 3-weeks of flawless operation. Then it happened once, and then a week later, twice in one day, and then again last night, so it's getting worse. They told me to move the cat box, but my house is small, and there really isn't any other good place for it. Options: 1. Maybe I could wrap some cheesecloth or an old sheet over the intake grids at the base of the heater, to keep the dust out? 2. Can I just disable the sensor? There is no source of hydrocarbons nearby, except for the natural gas that feeds the water heater. I'm going to call in again, but I thought you guys might have an opinion.
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May 5, 2017 16:30
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glynnenstein posted:This is why the safety device is there. Are you completely 100% sure you don't have a minute gas leak? It wouldn't be surprising after an install. Possible that there is a minute gas leak. But, both the woman and I have really sensitive senses of smell, I think we might have smelled it. But I will recheck. Also, the first time it happened, it was an unusually warm day, so we had all the windows in the house open, with a strong cross breeze in the basement. This is why I immediately ruled out gas.
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May 5, 2017 17:34
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Bad Munki posted:Is your cat somehow producing an exponentially-increasing amount of poop, so as to explain the increasing frequency of shut down? I'm with glynnenstein, you probably have a leak. They're not uncommon. I was talking to a home inspector just the other day, I was proxying a house he was inspecting, he says he finds about one a day. Look, it's what the tech told me... he said it was a goddamned nightmare before they figured out that their new hydrocarbon sensors were being tripped by proximity to litter boxes. I just got off the phone, they are sending me a new sensor. I may just try cheese clothing the old one first.
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May 5, 2017 17:35
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Bad Munki posted:I'm not saying it's impossible it's the cat box, but your description of an increasing frequency seems suspect with regards to that source. Unless you just got the cat? Otherwise, I would expect a cat's hazmat output to be fairly consistent. Nope, cat is an old lady, and the box was never a problem for the old water heater. However, I really think the issue is with the LITTER DUST, and not the cat poop. I use an unscented, low-dust litter, but I guess that still isn't enough. We keep all of our root-cellar type foods down there, so it's not like it's a dirty or dusty environment. Guy Axlerod posted:Do a soap test on the lines. Get/borrow a tester, or call the gas company and have them check. Yep, next thing I'll do is soap the connections, then call the gas company.
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May 5, 2017 17:40
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Wow, that was quick. The fire department came out with their sniffer, and declared my basement free of gas. That's one thing down.
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May 5, 2017 18:07
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Interesting, I figured it was the cat litter dust, but this guy says it's the ammonia:quote:The Flammable Vapour Sensor
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May 5, 2017 18:30
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PainterofCrap posted:I have 6 (yes, six) cat boxes on a platform less than two feet from my Rheem high-efficiency unit, which I installed myself two years ago. Never had a problem, and there's clumping cat litter dust everywhere, including the top of the water heater, which I have to wipe down periodically. The tech on the phone said that this was a relatively new issue. My unit was built October 2016. Could just be a bad sensor, but from what I've googled, I'm inclined to believe the tech. The fire department came to my house with their sniffer and found no gas leaks. Only one cat, I clean the box every 1-2 days. In summer, she pisses outside, and it's a lot less to clean. 6 smelly cat boxes is like my worst nightmare. I'd have to sell the house. Jadunk posted:Def sounds like a bad sensor to me. The quality of new styles sensors on newer high efficiency tanked and tankless units are pretty trash. (and will probably improve rapidly, I know they did when power vents first came out and had all those issues with pressure / temp switches) New sensor is coming in the mail today. I'm still tempted to just defeat the switch, though.
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May 6, 2017 14:24
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I have gone too long between changes & the ammonia smell is almost enough to bring tears to your eyes. Water heater gave no fucks.
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spog posted:Bypass the sensor that warns of a dangerous build-up of vapours? In your heart, you know this is not a good idea. Agreed.  But my previous water heater didn't have one, and it never blew up. Plus, the cat litter thing just pisses me off. Since they sent me a new sensor, I'd feel like an rear end in a top hat if I didn't move the litter box, and the new sensor got ruined as well.
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May 6, 2017 15:16
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Do AC questions go in here? I'm getting a fault on my Trane compressor unit. 11 blinks of the red fault LED = Liquid Temperature Sensor Fault (Out of Range - Open or Shorted) I thought it just overheated because I hadn't cleaned it in a few years, but it's been off for 14 hours now, and when I unplugged the power and replugged it, it didn't reset. Suggestions please?
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Jun 13, 2017 15:01
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Problem solved! Wire running to the sensor was faulty.
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Jun 13, 2017 17:42
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This got no love in the Fix it thread, so trying here. It's a battery issue, but for Sump Pumps. I have a battery back up system for my auxiliary sump pump. It has two deep cycle batteries, Glentronics Pro Series B-2200. Here is the owner's manual in PDF: https://www.stopflooding.com/assets/2/6/Manual_Pro_Battery_Inst_sheet_08_(Cur).pdf And here is the Amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/PHCC-B-2200-2400-Battery-Backup/dp/B00DPF8LIK/ $200 a piece, without any acid. My sump pump company wants $300 for them filled and ready to go. Ouch. The manual very clearly states to never add more acid to the batteries, only to top off with distilled water. Which I've been dutifully doing for the last few years. The controller/charger unit is telling me one of the batteries is dead, and needs to be replaced... Is there any reason I can't just check the acid level with a battery acid tester, and then adjust the acid level? You know, like we used to do with car batteries? I have a hard time believing that the battery is already completely dead, they just haven't seen a lot of use.
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Mar 21, 2018 03:06
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My kitchen faucet is leaking from the swivel base. I'm guessing that's a big oring? I'd just like to have the parts on hand when I take it apart.
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Dec 13, 2019 15:42
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Speaking of outdoor spigots, am I the only one who has trouble with those through the wall anti-siphon silcock valves? I'm dutiful about always turning them off on the inside and draining them fully every fall (I live in cold, cold New England), and yet they still seem to wear out fast? I have to replace them every 3-5 years, they always start leaking. Mr current one leaks bad enough that eventually it will fill the hose up tight.
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Dec 13, 2019 15:51
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:My own take is it doesn't matter that the base itself leaking water, but rather that water is getting into the base in the first place. The leak is probably further up. Sounds reasonable, thanks. I tried taking it apart last night, and was stymied by lack of access to the set screw. But it was late, and I was grumpy, I'll get it today. kid sinister posted:You replace what? The seat washer? Don't hulk out when you tighten them down. The rubber will last longer. Check out the valve seat the next time you take the stem out. Make sure there isn't any crap in there that could keep it from making a good seal: old rubber bits, globs of solder, cracks... I just replace the whole thing, ie. solder on a new one. Like the other guy said, it's internals that wear out. I can take it apart, clean it, lube it up with oring lube, and that usually buys me one more season... and then it just leaks again. PainterofCrap posted:Also, be sure the sillcock is pitched downwards, towards the exterior. If it's pitched up, water can stand in the unit & freeze. But of course! hands you a jar of Grey Poupon Since I do this, I technically don't have to winterize the valve at all, but since I have the internal ball valve shut off, I do anyway.
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Dec 14, 2019 15:53
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So yeah, the orings were worn, but the valve cartridge wasn't in great shape, either. I've never worked on a kitchen faucet before, but I have a Kohler, so it was pretty easy. I got the seal kit and the valve for $19 shipped Amazon Prime, can't really beat that. kid sinister posted:The internals shouldn't "wear out". They're brass. It's the rubber that can just be replaced, unless you got frost damaging your sillcock every winter. Is this a regular sillcock or a frost free one? Vacuum breaker? It's the kind that self drains? With a long tube to pass through an insulated wall? Anyway, this one is only 3 years old, I'll take it apart and have a look.
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Dec 16, 2019 15:40
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Yeah, really high water pressure will make your water heater leak, I'm glad I got that pressure reducer installed. I still have plenty of shower pressure, though. So, I probably should have gone to the Plumbing Supply store instead of waiting two days for my Amazon Prime shipment: I underestimated how gross my kitchen would get in two days without a faucet! Anyway, I was staring at the brass fixed parts for a few days, and I noticed a barely perceptible leak from it. I don't think my cold water shutoff valve doesn't close all the way? I tried opening and closing it a few times, and it didn't help. Is this normal?
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Dec 18, 2019 14:29
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Motronic posted:Is it normal that a valve that barely ever gets operated has failed when you finally used it? Yes. OK, makes sense. Is there a reason that they use those cheap gate valves for shutoffs instead of ball valves? I've never had a ball valve fail like that. I guess in theory you might need to balance the flow between the two supplies?
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Dec 19, 2019 14:35
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PainterofCrap posted:given the fractal & random nature of that install. Bird in a Blender posted:Whoever put that in a shower either hated themselves or was really planning for a future where they wanted you punished. I HATE doing tile, just thinking about trying to fix that is giving me the agita.
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Jan 3, 2020 18:58
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I'm renting some commercial space in a new building, retail on the first floor, condos above. On my walk through the other day, I saw that they were running all of the domestic water supply lines with PVC. Is this normal? I've only ever seen copper or flexible plastic. Also, probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone have any strong opinions on commercial HVAC equipment brands? I'm looking at either Mitsubishi or Daikin.
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Feb 7, 2020 14:35
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Oh, and for that guy with the sump pump, my yard is an active swamp in the spring time, and when it rains it floods right up to my basement door. My sump pump runs 24/7 for most of April. My advice is to put together a disaster kit, mine's in an old milk crate. Submersible pool pump, 20 foot garden hose, extension cord. I keep it right next to my little generator, and together they saved my bacon when I lost power for 5 days after the Noreaster in winter 2018. Pop the top off the sump, lower in the pump, and pump into my set tub to drain (in most places, it's illegal to pump your sump into the sewer, but under emergency situations it's not a big deal). I even have a battery back up system with an auxiliary pump (two deep cycle marine batteries), but if it needs to run constantly, the batteries are good for only maybe 3 hours.
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Feb 7, 2020 14:42
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B-Nasty posted:Was it PVC or CPVC? PVC is allowed for cold water distribution in some areas, but CPVC is way more commonly used, and required for hot. The pipes look similar. CPVC was a popular alternative to copper before PEX started to become common in the US. Ah good point, I didn't read anything printed on it, it just looked like plain white PVC to me.
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Feb 7, 2020 17:56
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What do you pros think of the new Heat Pump hot-water heaters? My HVAC company talked me into one when I ripped out my old oil boiler, and I like it. Has it's own condensate pump, helps keep the humidity down in the summer time. As far I as I can tell, the only downsides are the price, and it kind of sounds like there is an air condition running in your basement... because there is.
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Oct 30, 2023 18:16
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Keyser_Soze posted:I got a Ruud 50G heat pump water heater last year in my garage while I was getting Solar and a garage subpanel installed and it's been great so far and in my mild Sacramento, CA area climate only takes $6-$10 per month to run. The great thing is the City offered some huge rebates to get one installed and I didn't have to do any paperwork at all. Dumping the old janky vent stack and sealing up the roof was a bonus. I got back 50% of my front hall closet when I ripped out the flue from the old oil boiler. Of course, now I have to fix all the dry wall in there, but I'm excited to have a full closet. The downside to an all electrified house in a cold climate is that in the winter time I have to turn the heat pump water heater to straight electric mode, or else I'm just stealing heat from the rest of the house.
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Dec 1, 2023 20:19
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Motronic posted:If you're heating your house with a heat pump it is more efficient to leave the heat pump water heater in heat pump mode. Electric resistance heating is terribly wasteful. That was my first thought, but then I got into a Thermodynamic theory death spiral... if the house is a closed system, and electricity is the only heat source, it seems wasteful to add heat to the house, just so another electric appliance can remove it to heat water. Entropy has to catch up at some point, right? You make a good point about the source of heat being more efficient (the house HP vs the water heater electric elements), but the other problem I run into in winter time is that the HPHWH makes the basement too cold.
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Dec 1, 2023 21:00
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I'm installing a heat pump for my above ground pool, but I don't know jack poo poo about PVC plumbing. 1- Any resources or guides to working with PVC? 2- Should I build my bypass loop with three ball valves, or with one three-way diverter valve and check valve? 3- Based on where I can install the heat pump, the angle between it and the filter is going to be weird? What angles do PVC elbows come in? Or maybe I make the diverter loop square to the heat pump, and then attach it to everything else with hoses?
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Mar 18, 2024 00:17
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How important is it to bevel the cut ends of PVC pipe? The glue package says it's important, but I don't see anyone doing it in Youtube videos.
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May 1, 2024 00:23
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PainterofCrap posted:I use a piece of emory paper (for shining copper pipe) or 100-grit sandpaper to clean my PVC cuts, Gotcha: deburr and break the edge, the same basic standard for metal cutting.
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May 1, 2024 16:58
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Squashy Nipples posted:I'm installing a heat pump for my above ground pool, but I don't know jack poo poo about PVC plumbing. Based on various internet opinions, I decided on the three-way diverter valve instead of the ball valve ladder. The manual for the heat pump depicts the ladder in the diagram in the manual, but the text of the manual implies that the three-way valve is the better way to go. Anyway, getting close! Base is built, electric is installed, I redid all the plumbing on the pump and filter, and now I just need to decide on final plumbing design for the heat pump. Here is the layout, the pump/filter and heat pump are almost, but not quite, 22.5 degrees apart.  For plumbing, I can put the valves on the near side, or right by the inlet/outlet for the heatpump. Option one, valves on farside:  Longer hose, shorter PVC. Option two, valves on nearside:  Shorter hose, longer PVC. I also feel like I would have to support this one permanently (it's sitting on some bricks right now).
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May 2, 2024 17:00
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 01:25 |
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I think that having the valves near the filter (nearside) is more convenient? Unless I'm missing something. Also, a second take on the valves on the farside design. This is kind like Lego! 
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May 2, 2024 17:04
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