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Yeah I realize it’s not as easy as Ultimate Admiral makes it, but it’ll be nice to have something to keep me busy in the winter when it’s too cold for carpentry and woodworking outdoors in the evening. I suppose I could always do PE for stuff like railings but go with resin or 3D print for others. Oh, and also wooden decking—anyone have experience with that?
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Mar 14, 2024 11:17
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Wooden decking can look really nice, but some is more of an effort than others. Some aftermarket kits just 1 for 1 replace the existing parts, but some decking is part of an upgrade kit that enhances the model kit's fidelity, and that can sometimes entail changes to the existing model, sometimes minor, sometimes major, in regards to removing or sanding down areas or parts. They can be pretty pricey too, like some of the upgrade kits for ship models can cost as much as the kit.
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Mar 14, 2024 15:05
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Right, yeah...this HMS Hood 1/700 package looks pretty good, though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203563954447 It's got PE and wooden decking, plus the model itself, for under $100.
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Mar 14, 2024 15:14
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I've have spent the past couple of days trawling through google search results for stowage or accessory kits in either 1/72 or 1/48 scale to dolly up some 1/100 scale Abrams tanks. So far I've only found stuff that, while cool, usually ends up feeling way too expensive thanks to shipping, even within the EU. Even looked into various STLs without finding much that isn't WW2 or Warhammer related. Before I give up on the idea I figured I might as well ask here for any suggestions if anyone has any. All I'm really looking for is a bunch of modern military backpacks and maybe some boxes for the cargo racks.
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Mar 14, 2024 17:00
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I can confirm the Flyhawk deluxe Hood is the best Hood kit you'll get in 1/700 (and probably any scale tbh). The main advantage to me of wood decks is that it massively speeds up build times as you don't need to do as much masking of superstructure or detail painting of bits and pieces on the deck. You can just blast one colour over everything and let the wood decks sort out the rest. They all tend to be the same pale teak colour (except for some that are pre-dyed blue) so check your references against the actual colour of the deck of your subject as they were quite often darker so you might need to stain or paint it. 3D printing is absolutely the future for aftermarket and it's already mostly replaced cast resin at this point. I get 3D printed 1/700 figures, weapons, accessories etc from Starling Models in the UK, but the likes of Micro Master, Model Monkey and Kraken Hobbies have great and rapidly expanding ranges. The amount of flexibility and low barrier of entry for 3D printing has given aftermarket a huge shot in the arm, even for those of us who don't have the space or inclination to print stuff ourselves. There's always going to be a place for PE but I think that things that have never really looked all that good made from folded PE like oerlikons/AA guns, figures etc are much better suited to 3D printing. I do have some ideas for customs bits I'd like to have a go at designing and see if I can get a pal to print for me, like a replacement bridge for Matchbox's vintage 1/700 HMS Tiger kit that has recessed rather than raised windows, that sort of thing.
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Mar 14, 2024 17:01
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tidal wave emulator posted:There's always going to be a place for PE but I think that things that have never really looked all that good made from folded PE like oerlikons/AA guns, figures etc are much better suited to 3D printing. As someone who never actually has worked with PE, I would say that where it really shines is in antenna/radar arrays and crane towers and stuff where it's folded to make a 3D structure where you don't really see how 'flat' it is. Edit: and railings of course. The Locator fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Mar 14, 2024 |
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Mar 14, 2024 17:10
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The Locator posted:As someone who never actually has worked with PE, I would say that where it really shines is in antenna/radar arrays and crane towers and stuff where it's folded to make a 3D structure where you don't really see how 'flat' it is. It also works really well for things that only need a minimal amount of depth, such as lettering on a wooden ship kit's stern, hatches and doors on modern ships, window frames, etc... The problem is that if you don't have a perfect application of it, it can look quite off.
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Mar 14, 2024 17:54
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The Locator posted:As someone who never actually has worked with PE, I would say that where it really shines is in antenna/radar arrays and crane towers and stuff where it's folded to make a 3D structure where you don't really see how 'flat' it is. IncredibleIgloo posted:It also works really well for things that only need a minimal amount of depth, such as lettering on a wooden ship kit's stern, hatches and doors on modern ships, window frames, etc... The problem is that if you don't have a perfect application of it, it can look quite off. Yeah absolutely, anything that involves cages, cranes etc or is essentially a series of folded planes really pops as PE as it gives you a combination of intricate detail and very sharp edges that aren't close to possible to 3D printing nevermind injection moulding. The antennae I made for my HMS Glamorgan a couple years back and the masts for my recent Hermes were probably the single most involved parts of the builds but I think they pay off.    
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Mar 14, 2024 18:46
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Cooked Auto posted:I've have spent the past couple of days trawling through google search results for stowage or accessory kits in either 1/72 or 1/48 scale to dolly up some 1/100 scale Abrams tanks. Tamiya makes some really good stowage sets but they're all 1/35 scale. At 1/72 you might be best using some miliput to sculpt your own, a backpack is just going to be a little blob at that size, and boxes would just be well, boxes.
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Mar 14, 2024 20:59
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tidal wave emulator posted:I can confirm the Flyhawk deluxe Hood is the best Hood kit you'll get in 1/700 (and probably any scale tbh). Small sample size, having only built one, but the Flyhawk kit I did build was excellent. A lot of them are coming now with a special edition with photo etch and resin details.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:21
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Yeah Flyhawk are good in that their deluxe kits with etch, brass barrels etc are not limited runs and are available for years after release, as opposed to the likes of Hasegawa, Fujimi, Aoshima etc who will release a special edition or a separate PE sheet once on initial release of the kit and then usually never again (although Fujimi have recently begun re-releasing some of their 1/700 ships as special editions and I've been snapping them up to fill out my IJN collection).
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Mar 14, 2024 21:27
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Bucnasti posted:Tamiya makes some really good stowage sets but they're all 1/35 scale. Yeah I came across the Tamiya one multiple times. If it wasn't for the fact that 1/35 won't really fit I'd be all for that one. I think the one I wanted the most was one of the Black Dog sets, but that usually ended up costing me as much as the tanks themselves due to shipping.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:36
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tidal wave emulator posted:Yeah absolutely, anything that involves cages, cranes etc or is essentially a series of folded planes really pops as PE as it gives you a combination of intricate detail and very sharp edges that aren't close to possible to 3D printing nevermind injection moulding. See, that actually looks like a lot of fun to me, so I’m encouraged by what everyone’s saying about photo etch. What tools do I need to work with it effectively? Should I maybe practice with a Metal Earth model to get a feel for bending metal? I did go ahead and buy the Flyhawk kit, though my main build for the next few months is going to be a 1:1 scale sailboat for me to take my family out in. Not a model, so not suitable for this thread alas.
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Mar 14, 2024 21:42
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Apollodorus posted:See, that actually looks like a lot of fun to me, so I’m encouraged by what everyone’s saying about photo etch. I can't speak for everyone but this is what works for me:  A tile or other hard surface to cut the PE off the fret on (and a large supply of replacement craft blades because they will go dull quickly) - if you use a regular cutting mat it'll bend the etch as you remove it. Diamond file for filing off the nubs left on the parts from the fret. Needle nosed tweezers for picking up/positioning the PE. Photo etch bending pliers - however you can use cheaper duck bill style pliers as an alternative to the expensive Tamiya ones. Basically they just need to be able to clamp together tightly & flatly and form a sharp lip to bend around. Bending tool - these come in different shapes and sizes but they're useful for more complex geometries, especially when the PE doesn't have preset bending points etched into it. I wouldn't say this is essential until you've started getting the hang of it and/or feel the need. Superglue - obvious reasons. I like using thin stuff which sets fast but other folk prefer gel type. Useful when you need to set something quickly in an awkward position. Strong PVA for etch (Mig Ultra Glue) - I do most of my PE gluing with this as it gives you more working time and a more flexible/less brittle joint. Love this stuff. Cocktail sticks for glue application. quote:Should I maybe practice with a Metal Earth model to get a feel for bending metal? It can't hurt!
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Mar 14, 2024 22:41
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Apollodorus posted:I did go ahead and buy the Flyhawk kit, though my main build for the next few months is going to be a 1:1 scale sailboat for me to take my family out in. Not a model, so not suitable for this thread alas. I for one and a big fan of 1:1 sailboat models! If not here, do you have it posted in another thread?
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Mar 14, 2024 23:39
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I recently finished a Tamiya Easy 8 Sherman and am working on a BF109, a 1/700 Yorktown Waterline, and an IH Paystar logging truck at the same time and I have to say, I'm happy to be whole hog into modeling. I'm not getting huge into fancy painting or weathering yet, but I'm having a lot of fun doing simple finishing jobs and machine gunning completed kits. After many years of building r/c's, it's nice to not have to worry about mechanical bits.
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Mar 15, 2024 14:14
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Aside from this delightful thread, where do you go online to talk about all things scale modeling? Since I ditched reddit, it's pretty much here and the Large Scale Planes forums. I've found the hyperscale, missing-lynx, and kit makers network forums to be a bit pedantic for my tastes. I'm just looking for people who are positive, encouraging, and supportive to people of all skill levels. Like here. Any good recommendations?
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Mar 16, 2024 20:49
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I don't really post on them but I browse Britmodeller and the Modelwarships.com forum which are both alright, and I post fairly regularly on r/modelmakers - everyone's p decent on there. I used to be active in various FB groups like Facebook Scale Modellers, Mediocre Modellers Group and International Scale Modeller but they're all liable to boomer facebook brain posting (i.e. 1970s era jokes about SWMBO/hiding kits from your wife, guys getting red + nude + furious seeing german models without/blurred swastikas on them etc). I post a bit in Warship Scale Modelling and 1/600 & 1/700 Plastic Model Ships. Avoid Scale Modellers Critique Group, it's essentially the helldump of scale modelling where they screenshot posts from other groups to laugh at, I never thought I'd see guys getting macho and testosterone-fueled about plastic models before I found that group. tidal wave emulator fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Mar 16, 2024 |
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Mar 16, 2024 22:05
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I read britmodler and post to a couple of facebook pages namely gt/ gtp scale models and road and track in scale. Neither have boomer level jokes and a majority of the work posted is high quality.
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Mar 16, 2024 23:21
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I'm in a few facebook modeling groups and they are SHOCKINGLY supportive and no-bullshit. I ended up just joining a bunch and weeding out a couple where every post with a covered swastika leads to a 10 post diatribe about "mah freedom!!!"
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Mar 17, 2024 00:29
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I built another dollhouse kit, this time a pet shop. It's from a different company than the bookshop I built before but in general it's the same building style. Instead of glossy paper they use what appears to be normal printing paper though, but that doesn't lessen the effect. There's also a few less flowers to cut out and manually assemble, but more fabric to work with and even some pillows to make. Overall good clean fun and the result looks neat. There was also no painting involved in this one, just assembly. Some of the wirework was mildly annoying due to having to pull it in from all over the place, but if you follow the instructions it's manageable.      
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Mar 17, 2024 17:41
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Having built a book nook diorama kit I greatly understand the effort required in putting these cute little kits together! Fantastic work!
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Mar 17, 2024 20:08
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Fabulous! I love it.
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Mar 17, 2024 20:45
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That pet shop looks cool- very Spring-ish in vibe too! Thanks for the recommendation on the 1/350 Tamiya Fletcher DD. My local hobby shop had one and while I haven't started it yet, it looks like a fun little build. While I was there they also had a 1/700 Hornet, DD Cushing, and Gato Sub w/ Japanese Sub Chaser kits (they were very cheap as they were being re-sold from someone's collection), so I picked those up too.
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Mar 18, 2024 14:43
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I've been putting my scale kits aside to dive into wargaming crap for the past year, and let me tell you, there's something theraputic about being able to build and basecoat a single Tamiya armored car in under an hour, compared to loving around with a GW miniature squad.
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Mar 18, 2024 17:39
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And on the flipside of that, I'm working on a logging truck that's a combo of an Ertl repop Paystar dump truck for the tractor (killer build) with an AMT/Revell logging trailer. Surprise, surprise but the logging trailer is a pain in the rear end to put together. I'll post pics when I'm done though.
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Mar 18, 2024 19:28
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My Flyhawk 1/700 Hood arrived today and it looks amazing. Soooo many tiny bits. The wood decking is sweet. I need to work out what gets assembled before painting, and what needs painted before assembly. Oh also…any good primer and airbrush recommendations? I’m planning to go with Tamiya paints.
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Mar 18, 2024 22:27
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:And on the flipside of that, I'm working on a logging truck that's a combo of an Ertl repop Paystar dump truck for the tractor (killer build) with an AMT/Revell logging trailer. Surprise, surprise but the logging trailer is a pain in the rear end to put together. I'll post pics when I'm done though. The COE I'm working on is a mess, especially where the exhaust pipes go.
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Mar 18, 2024 23:04
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Apollodorus posted:My Flyhawk 1/700 Hood arrived today and it looks amazing. Soooo many tiny bits. The wood decking is sweet. Primer's kinda subjective, and also you should figure out if you want to do rattlecans, if you have a preference for generic acrylic primer versus lacquer, etc. Get a compressor with a tank. You should probably expect to drop about a hundred bucks US or local equivalent on this to get one that's good, but not too marked-up in price. The handheld compressors suck, the tiny desktop compressors for makeup suck, but you also don't need a giant shop compressor designed to drive tools or inflate truck tires. Airbrush recommendations are like going up to someone and saying "hey, what kind of car should I buy?" It's a hellscape. In what country do you reside, and how much are you budgeting for your airbrush?
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Mar 18, 2024 23:11
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I paid 100 CAD for a compressor/brush combo from our patriotic hardware store. I absolutely demolished the airbrush that came with it since I didn't know how to take care of an airbrush, but then I felt confident buying a proper one that I didn't end up breaking. The compressor keeps on trucking though. Looks like the same combo is $169 now but for $140 you can get the same set in a different colour off of Amazon where the compressor also has a tank.
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Mar 19, 2024 00:07
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I swear by lacquer based primers like Tamiya and Mr Hobby. Especially if you need to sand the primer. Acrylic based primers like Vallejo I don't even know what makes them a "primer". They sure as hell don't bite into the plastic.
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Mar 19, 2024 00:35
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Acrylic primers are formulated to shrink a little bit as they dry, so they're getting more of a mechanical fit than a chemical attachment.
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Mar 19, 2024 00:38
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I used to swear by Stynylrez acrylic primer but the quality started becoming really flaky so I've switched to Mr Surfacer 1500 and it's incredible, I'd never go back. That said, unless I'm spraying acrylic top coats or doing black basing or something I find I'm not priming so often these days. Airbrushing lacquer paints like Mr Color, and enamel paints, don't really need a primer so I can save time by skipping a step.
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Mar 19, 2024 01:23
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"No, Trumpeter, I don't believe I will." (It's their BMP-3)
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Mar 19, 2024 02:00
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I'm the Dirve sprocket
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Mar 19, 2024 06:30
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Grumio posted:I'm the Dirve sprocket We all know you're an Idler wheel, don't lie.
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Mar 19, 2024 10:37
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I’ve got my IH Paystar tractor built and the logging trailer. Doing the whole thing in an industrial yellow and will start painting/muddying up from there. Here it is before getting the cab done. With the trailer attached it is loooong. https://imgur.com/a/TsebRqh
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Mar 20, 2024 01:50
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Possibly stupid idea: can I airbrush Tamiya Accent Panel Liner onto plastic primed with lacquer (Mr Surfacer)? I'm doing a one-off project (painting a Digimon virtual pet black as a gift, remember those things? They still sell them at markup to sad millennials) and want the paint coat to be rock solid, able to withstand everyday pocket and purse jostling. I've read that enamel is my best shot but I don't feel like ordering a whole bottle for 1-3 coats and I have this panel liner lying around and it's enamel, soooo...
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Mar 20, 2024 16:04
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Marx Headroom posted:Possibly stupid idea: can I airbrush Tamiya Accent Panel Liner onto plastic primed with lacquer (Mr Surfacer)? You can absolutely put enamel over lacquer without any problems. I've never tried airbrushing panel liner, so it would be interesting to see if it dries fast enough to give an even coat. Also, I'm not sure it's going to give any extra protection over the base coat of lacquer that's already on there.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:52
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You might be better off just painting it in whatever regular paint you want and then protecting it with an enamel or lacquer varnish, which should give it much better protection from keys etc.
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Mar 20, 2024 19:41
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