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Quick question: I just upped my limit and got another card at BoA (I know they are evil yes). Since its within a month, is now a good time to look into a credit card via elsewhere, thinking being it won't hurt my credit as much to look? Does it just look like I am shopping around if within 1 month ish? And I'm not looking to max out or anything, just maybe get a better rewards card, and help get me through some moving finances. Edit: The Credit card rewards thread answered the question, apparently keeping under 10 a year is advisable. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 22, 2011 |
# ¿ Sep 22, 2011 21:07 |
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# ¿ May 18, 2024 13:03 |
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moana posted:I suppose I was thinking that all of the daily transaction commissions would more than overwhelm the interest. Maybe that was true when I got my first credit card, but I really don't know what it is now. You're probably right. I see rewards cards so far as good as long as you know the rules of the game: -Never Carry a Balance -Remember that you have to pay off whatever at the end of the month -Addition to point #2, if you can't pay for it out of your bank account now, don't buy it -Focus it towards what you can make the most off of I have the BoA cash rewards 123 since I bank with them already and it has 3% on gas and I drive a lot. So I always use my cards when grocery shopping (2%) and paying for gas. I use it a bit on minor stuff (1%), but not completely. I also know that BoA limits their payouts on groceries and gas to a max spending of $1,500 a quarter (so i can make a max of $45 a quarter or $180 a year on gas, less when factoring in groceries). BoA also adds an extar 10% if i move said $45 right into my bank account, which makes it a max of $49.5. So anyway, the point is that it is small change, but I am now getting a return off of normal spending that I otherwise would not get. Any returns are completely irrelevant if you hold a balance since fees are so drat high. I'm glad for this thread too since it inspired me to write this on paper so I can better see what I am getting. I have gas and groceries covered, any thoughts on a good 2nd card for other expenditures? Beyond rent stuff that I would not use it for, the only main thing I do is eat out and occasionally buy stuff off amazon (not enough for a specific amazon card). I don't fly often and while I am open to points, I always preferred a cash percentage. And hey, I found out Comcast dinged me for some phantom $50 I apparently owe them on my credit score. Anyone know the quick/easy way to challenge that? Edit: Figured it out, my credit card application got rejected by Citi, and they said it was on TransUnion that they used. So I went through transunion, got a credit report (shouldn't count against my yearly free statement because i got rejected, but i could be wrong), and you can dispute through the report. Pretty easy actually. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Oct 17, 2011 |
# ¿ Oct 17, 2011 15:15 |
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"froglet" posted:The problem with common sense is that it isn't that common. Financial literacy isn't taught in schools and the entire credit industry is based around convincing people that they can "afford the payment" rather than letting them realise how much they'll be paying in the long run if they pay out the minimums only. Please link that thread here if you make it.
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2011 15:39 |
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"zelah" posted:I currently have a BoA credit card with a $0 balance and 5,000 limit. This is my only card. Woah, what debit card crap? Edit: ah, $5 a month to use a debit card. Total bullshit. The biggest thing tying me down to bank of America is a pretty good savings rare (just over 1%) and honestly I've been with them over 8 years and they treat me really well as a result. The probable result for me is to not use my debit card (which I am trending towards anyway) and just pay off credit cards every month. But I will at least research other options. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Oct 23, 2011 |
# ¿ Oct 23, 2011 13:16 |
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Kontradaz posted:I'm in college and just got a part time job. Gonna be earning about 500 bucks a month. What type of budget should I make and how much should I put aside in my savings? I really feel like if I don't do a budget or something I'll be wasting all the money away :\ I will say my personal advice is put away as much as possible now. And if you have a weekly meal plan and rent is paid for by loans, its honestly really achievable, since that is the one big expense. Set a goal of "I want XX amount in my savings." Put as much as possible to hit that first (assuming no credit card debt). I recommend a goal of $3,000 savings, $1,000 checking. That's what I had when I got out of college and it really really loving helps once you are out of college and on your own. The other nice thing is that (at least at BoA) you can get a higher savings rate when you put more money in it. I get a 1.0% ish interest rate and the only requirement is I must keep $2,500 in there at all times. Its high and not for everyone, but even when i have been really really hard for money, it keeps me from going under $2500. Also, open up a credit card now, and buy a candy bar each month and pay it off. It is possible to graduate from college with some savings and good credit, and it is worth it. Once you hit that, buy yourself something with the next paycheck. Good to reward yourself. In terms of budget that is up to you, I usually use Mint.com to set a general budget. That's probably the main achievable goal, I would guess you could look into investing next, which if you get to that point you can quickly get some mad savings built up for later. From my research the king of early investments is a Roth IRA, so I would research that. Worst case, make it a goal to have that XX amount in savings, so you can start up a Roth upon working. I made the mistake of not starting a Roth then, and it gets harder to start it as you move, switch jobs, etc. The big thing is to start.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2011 16:37 |
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Okay, cool. So basically keep doing what I'm doing now (buying only one thing per paycheck that I can afford), but do it on a credit card in order to build up my credit standing? Yep. Worst case buy a candy bar and pay it off each month. I personally would recommend 2-3 credit cards (dont need to get both immediately) long term to get a good score. Like the above person said, get a rewards card and you'll gain a slight amount of money for your efforts. Just always always pay it off.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2011 06:31 |
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dunkman posted:Back in 2007 when I had no credit (college kid, never needed it) I got a BoA visa ($500 limit, $29/yr, 19.9% apr) and a Capital One Mastercard ($500 limit $45/yr 21.49%), and a Exxon gas card thing that had no fee and I actually lost it after 2 months, paid the balance down to zero and they just closed it like 6 months ago. Also last December, Capital One increased my limit to $2000. Why close it? Keep it open and buy a candy bar every month, longevity is a big plus with credit scores and reports.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2011 04:09 |
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I'm in the boat of looking for a better rate for savings/money market account. Currently I have Bank of America, and between my wife and I we have $7000ish in savings (shooting to get it up to am even 10 by end of the year). BoA said their savings would only fo 0.04%. I'm pretty certain I can do better. I live in Philly, just curious if anyone here has had luck with a specific bank or credit union (ill be looking at both of course). I already have 401K and Roth accounts setup, this just making the most of our emergency fund.
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2013 00:03 |
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SlightlyMadman posted:Right, I didn't mean to say BoA was unusual in that regard, just that "leave your money in a crappy savings account and wait for interest rates to go back up" is probably not good advice. I don't mind online banks, although I will say I do like that anywhere I go I have quick access to my money currently. I would likely leave a little in checking and savings with BoA to retain that, and put the rest in whatever savings. The perspective is a good one though, $50 a year is better than $5 a year, but I can take my time to find the right combo.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2013 15:06 |
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Fancy_Lad posted:This is how I do it. Note that if you have some flavor of "free" checking with your physical bank, they often tie a minimum direct deposit amount to that account or else they charge fees. For instance, the Chase accounts I use require a minimum $500/month deposit for it to remain free. For online banks, which ones do people recommend? IE chase and the rest.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 00:21 |
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Ashcans posted:Oh man. Part of me wants to tell you to take the trip, because you have so many other issues looming that at least that way you would have some good memories to warm you when you are sleeping in a shanty. All of your advice is great for him/her to hear, I just want to input the poster seems to be a very typical situation of how youth are encouraged to spend a fortune on schooling and experiences without really giving guidance on what the consequences long term are and how it impacts said people long term. Reading things like spending money on body art and wanting to travel to Japan while getting $60K in debt sounds ludicrous, but it's unfortunately really easy and in my opinion encouraged for young people to do. Anyway, part of this is a random rant about how terrible our education system is cost wise now, but I don't know a lot of 21 year olds who know much better. Wrong advice, wrong expectations from family/society can go a long way towards putting kids in the shitter. I was "lucky" that about $25K in my student loans was fortified because my Dad signed them (and only he signed) and he passed away my senior year, so they got rid of the loans. I majored in music business (mistake) an after spending 5 years making no money in music I finally switched to sales and am starting to look at paying more than the minimum interest on my remaining $15K.
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2013 00:04 |
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Harry posted:Having debt doesn't hurt your score unless it's just a ton. Just have her get current on her accounts, and then work on paying everything down. To add to this, is doesn't hurt as long as you meet minimum payments each month. It basically comes down to building slowly over the next year or two, but the best bet is to start a plan at paying off each one at $xx a month, and staying away from getting above 30% of credit card balances. I think its still in the OP, but creditkarma.com is a great basic guide on where to start with building credit. In the end, taking care of everything and being fiscally responsible with a plan is the way to go, and will take care of the credit score by itself.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2013 16:33 |
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Freeze posted:Sorry man, that's a really lovely situation. The book "The Richest Man in Babylon" is basically a whole book on "spread money between savings and spending now." If you get a bonus of $1,000, deposit $500-700 and use the rest towards something more immediate. I think it varies person to person (and does risk creating bad habits), but the theory to me is appeasing the greed that we all tend to have on immediate satisfaction.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2013 17:17 |
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The first part is that you lose money if you have a credit card and don't pay it off each month. Rewards cards specifically tend to have higher rates, so the rewards are worthless in reality if you carry a balance. So part of this is you need to analyze whether you can handle fully paying off whatever the card is or not. If you can't, then get a low limit card and buy very few things each much to keep your credit decent. If you can, then always just be careful as it's easier to over spend with credit cards. 5th 3rd is a terrible, terrible bank.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2013 13:28 |
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Re planning the best way to organize the finances for my wife and I, get out of debt, etc. Debts: Wife's undergrad loans: Sallie Mae: $5,566.0 at 6.8% Great Lake loans: $2500 at 1.75% (can that be correct?) We have an impending $50-60K in grad loans as my wife is about to finish grad school. That's obviously going to be the big change My undergrad: Ed Financial: $13,045 at 5.65% $1860 at 5.65% Vehicles: Wife: $5,600 Me: $11,600 Credit card: $2,000, no interest for 10 months (for a Macbook, so partially justifiable, partially unnecessary expense on my part) Investment: My company matches 100% of 6% of my paycheck into my 401K, so I do that (currently at $2000, just started the job this year). I have $800 in a Roth that I just started. $8,500 in a fund my family started for me years ago (no contributions on my part, it just accrues interest right now in different funds). Current payments: Student loans: I pay $100 a month (minimal, which I know isn't good), $300 per car payment, then standard rent, utilities, etc. Her student loans are deferred until November when she is officially out of school. Income: I make $50-60K a year depending on commission. She makes $12K a year currently just working part time at 10ish hours a week (her other internship just ended), and is now applying both to PT and FT jobs. Savings: $5,000ish in emergency funds, $3,000ish in checking. We aren't hurting financially overall, and things will get even more flexible once my wife starts working more hours or full time, so now its just a matter of addressing debt and increasing savings/long term investing. I have an idea on where to start, but I figure having someone with a fresh pair of eyeballs looking at things would help me get a better focus on where to start.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2013 15:46 |
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Zeta Taskforce posted:What are the nature of your other expenses? What are you paying for rent, what are typical utiliity payments and food bills? Anything unique going on, like super long commutes, regular travel, health care expenses for a cronic condition? Its better if you can come up with what you really spent by looking at receipts, bank statements, etc rather than imagine what you want your perfect monnth to be. Good point for both of you. I have a doc on our expenses and use Mint, so I can follow it fairly easily. Listing as total and not per person, Here are our expenses: Rent: $1120 Car insurance: $158, paid every 6 months, that's actually part of that credit card I owe on Gym: $50 Car: they are both about $280, but I like to round to $300. So $600 total My loans: $100 Netflix and Spotify: $20 Health insurance: about $70, comes out of paycheck directly Rental insurance: $15 Electricity: bout $80-120 Comcast: $90 Cell phones: $100 Gas: $300 a month? Food and groceries: $500-1000 Total expenses are about $3500 a month. Her loans are unknown, I would imagine her current loans would be $100ish a month, and the big loans coming in is what we need to adjust for (I would imagine a minimum of $300-500). So one goal is potentially paying off a car payment or student loan payment to be able to bring down the minimums for more flexibility. We have full health insurance and the only extra expenses coming up are a car checkup of $400 and I have some dental work that is mostly covered. We are taking a two day beach trip this week to satisfy the need for a summer vacation. Main weakness spending is eating out and buying microbrews. We have started to curb back at least until she gets a full time job. Income wise until recently my wife had a 2nd job, which is a loss of about $1300. Working on gaining something like that back, but of course we don't have that yet. Otherwise income is what is described above, my base is basically $3000 a month after taxes, and if I have a good commission month bonuses can be from $200 more to $1000 more (twice this year) to $2000 more (once this year). So my income can take care of the current bills overall, and the main goal is to start saving and paging stuff off with her extra income whenever she gets that.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2013 21:50 |
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Zeta Taskforce posted:On food, $500 to $1000 is a big range. If it is closer to $1000, your food budget is high for 2 people. I assume this is eating out/not cooking and where the microbrews come into play. What are your cars worth? Our food budget is high due to eating out and such. My car is a 2012 Honda civic, her car is a 2006 Passat (has 95K miles). I'm not a car guy, no idea on the worth.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 04:57 |
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:You can use kbb.com to figure out how much they are worth. I'm not looking to sell either car in any case, I am planning on using my tax return next year to pay off most to all of her loan,and then mine will just pay off over time. Car knowledge is a weakness of mine, we know what we currently have and that's worth paying a bit extra over trading out for a different car. Considered cutting cable, but at this point it's not much more for cable over just internet with Comcast, and Comcast is literally my only internet option (in Philadelphia amazingly). The $8500 is via a life insurance plan, so I get a very low rate for that. I've considered using it towards bills but I crunched the numbers a few months back and I'm leaving it where it is for now. The main lifestyle change we need to adjust is likely just eating in more and buying cheaper beer from time to time. As much as it would be nice to completely cut everything, at this point my main goal is just paying the minimums and deciding which to put the extra income towards payoff wise. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Aug 13, 2013 |
# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 14:12 |
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Zeta Taskforce posted:Well, that is a big part of the solution there. Your family in order to be nice to you bought you a crappy whole life insurance policy, and because your family has been overcharged for years, the insurance company has been putting some of it into a crappy savings account. Whole life insurance is a rip off in so many ways, but the insurance industry has convinced people that it is this miracle thing that grows and helps you plan for the future. I'm curious how your numbers crunched out, because everyone else is so much better off investing on their own in a real investment, like mutual funds in an IRA, and buying term insurance, where you can get hundreds of thousands of coverage for the price of a couple craft beers. I'll take another look at life insurance. Any suggestions on term insurance? I looked at it and felt that I would save when I got older and it was more expensive, but I could be wrong. I appreciate the advice on that. Edit: to clarify on the life insurance: it currently has $8500 in it, it is an investment style so it is all different mutual funds (I went with a split between small, large, bonds, etc), and it is $250-300 a year for $150K coverage. HooKars posted:Fellow Philadelphian with the same problem -- why do great beers and food have to be everywhere here?? Outskirts of Philly (Roxboro) and I drive out to Exton for work, so a car is essential for both of us unfortunately. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Aug 13, 2013 |
# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 15:36 |
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I figured you weren't looking to sell the cars, but you should still know what they are worth. My work offers dirt cheap life insurance, its just a matter of if I ever leave work I lose it, and that ties into my life insurance expense when older concern. I'll be readdressing it though.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2013 23:15 |
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Zeta Taskforce posted:How old are you and are you in reasonably good health? 20 year level term doesn't start getting expensive until you are in your 50's. 27 and in good health.
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2013 04:37 |
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Sophia posted:If this is true I'd just get the insurance. If your work's coverage is dirt cheap it's probably not that high and given even your not-insane debt loads it would better to be slightly over-covered than under-covered until you're clear of all of that. A 20 or 30 year term policy will probably never be cheaper for you unless you're a really bad driver or something. You can always stop paying for it once you no longer need the extra coverage. To clarify: I have insurance, just not through work. My life insurance is a little over $250 (I pay once a year in January) and my work life insurance would be $10ish a month. So $120 vs $250. My thought process was having an outside source for coverage means I'm fine if i am ever laid off or need to switch jobs. I'm open to suggestions if this is wrong.
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2013 13:51 |
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infinity2005 posted:Hi, I really need some help for my close friend of mine. I'll try to explain and any advice would help, although i'm not sure if this is better for E/N. She 24, lives in the Philippines, and her Aunt, who lives in California, is advising her to move over there and study. The Aunt doesn't appear to have any longterm plan for her in terms of help or anything other than telling her to get to the US. Now from everything i've read on this board i'm pretty sure this is a terrible idea due to the state of things over there economically and especially for the poor.. but i feel like she might just think my feelings on America are clouding my judgement. Well I would think the first question is: study what, and who is paying for said studying? Moving across the world to study business at Stanford or wherever on scholarship is a much better idea than moving across the world to study Philosophy as very local college with a ton of student loans. And not to knock Philosophy or anything.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2013 21:08 |
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Emacs Headroom posted:Yeah that's great. My wife got really into following some recipes on freezable food, which is seriously great for the winter (and I got into it also). It kept our food budget around $300 during our lean years; I can ask her the books she'd recommend if you think they'd help. For any links for this? Edit: I posted before on my loans that I'm working on paying off, and that I had a $8,000 life insurance investment plan taken out from when I was young. Well, I decided to cash it out and apply it elsewhere. Advice on the best of the following options? -one student loan of $8,000 at 6% interest via Sallie Mae (would bring base student loan payments down). Monthly base is $100 -current savings is about $5,000, goal is to get it to $10K. Put some towards that? -car loans are at $4000 and $11000, both at $300 a month each. I'm hoping to use my February s tax return to kill the lower one. I could use it to kill most of the other one. It's a lower interest rate, but it would free up cash flow. I'm looking to certainly pay more monthly towards student loans than the base, its just nice to have lower required payments in case I have a low commission check or whatever. I'm leaning towards halving between savings and one of the above payment options. Logically I should probably do student loans and call it a day there. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 10, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 10, 2013 14:58 |
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DemonLlama posted:Duckman: Unless your car loans are more than 6%, throw the whole thing at the student loan and just get rid of it. It'll really make you feel better actually getting rid of a payment. I'm thinking I'll do this. Thanks! Brennanite posted:We have been working through things for the last two days. We worked out a thorough budget which we *both* went over in detail and which he committed to following. It's got a decent amount going to build up savings for the next four months, then to paying off the credit card. I feel a lot less stressed about money now. When he saw how much of the budget he was taking up, he felt really bad. I guess he really didn't understand how things were until he saw them in front of him. He will still be getting a new computer, but a much more reasonable system at Christmas paid in full with the money he will get from selling some of the older games and his current system (plus his parents agreed to kick in some in lieu of birthday/Christmas). I honestly didn't think he would sell anything, but as I said, he felt really bad when he saw the budget. This warms my heart to see a family influenced well and taking a positive step in the world thanks to the Something Awful Forums (cheesy but serious statement). Remember you are now required to do a "where are they now" in a year or so.
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2013 04:13 |
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Question on capitol gains taxes: I'm going to be cashing out my $8,400 life insurance policy (currently in mutual funds). I make $50-60K a year, my wife makes $22K. What will my taxes on the policy be? Just trying to figure out how it would impact my tax return for next year if I withdraw it now. I'm guessing waiting until January to withdraw would only hurt me long term.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 03:18 |
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zharmad posted:You only will owe taxes if the cash out exceeds the amount you paid in. Whole life/universal life is such a terrible return you will likely have no tax liability. (Also assuming it isn't a modified endowment contract, which changes the rules somewhat.) Yeah, I am at $8400, and I am pretty sure they put down $7,000 in 1993 (no joke). Even with the disclaimer that no money was paid into it since then, it basically turned into a free life insurance policy for me between the ages of 5-27 (aka not worth it).
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 03:30 |
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swenblack posted:He's made 20% in 20 years. At this point, he's better off getting his money out of this "investment" as soon as humanly possible. It'd be worth any sort of penalty if he could roll it into a Roth IRA in either his or his wife's name. If he's maxing both out currently, even putting it in a savings account with today's lovely rates would yield a better return. This is kind of where I am at with it.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 06:05 |
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zharmad posted:
Ugh, things I won't mention to my grandfather when I next see him. I see your point, but I'm cashing it out at this point to go towards some of my student loans. Edit: Prudential gets reallllly huffy when you call and say you want to cash out the policy. They gave me a 10 min speech of how i should just borrow against my policy, and to remember that i am "cancelling $125,000 in life insurance just to get $8,000." Anyone know if I should do a tax withholdings now, or pay the taxes with my tax return? Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Sep 17, 2013 |
# ¿ Sep 17, 2013 13:22 |
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SlightlyMadman posted:I'm going to join all the people here asking for financial advice in their relationships. My girlfriend moved in with me about a month ago, and she's pretty badly in debt. She only works part time and basically even with me not asking her for any household expenses, she's barely making minimum payments. Most of it is student loans, I'm not sure how much but it's probably five figures at around 6%. She's still got a couple years left in grad school though, so those are in deferment (although apparently some still collect interest). That's less of a concern though, next to her credit card debt. I'll be getting more details from her tonight, but it's about $4500 at something like 15% interest. In the end, really only you can gauge whether it is a good idea or not. That being said, unless you have been dating for 10 years, if you have only just moved in together I would question whether you are at that stage of trust in a relationship. It sucks to be negative, but if the relationship goes sour at that point that will be a big needlepoint for fights, and to be honest if you ever break up you're out $5,000+. That's a good chunk of change. And personally, while documenting is a nice idea in theory, I can't see it doing anything but causing resentment long term for the same reasons. I would question how responsible she actually is with money. From what I've seen, most people THINK they are good with money, yet its still so easy to get in debt, take short term shortcuts, etc. I personally have that happen personally, so I can relate. Honestly, the only way to fix it is to find monthly cost cuts wherever possible, and have her start paying it off slowly but surely. I think she would feel better long term paying it off herself rather than you paying it (even sans the 0% interest i assume you would give her). And end of the day, painful financial lessons/experiences at least help (but not guarantee) ensure that it won't happen again.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2013 14:51 |
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SlightlyMadman posted:I don't mean to be a dick because I know you're just being helpful here, and I do appreciate it, but honestly that decision is my business and I'm not really looking for input in that area. You asked for an opinion on a public forums, and quite frankly that is a bigger factor than the money. Also: SlightlyMadman posted:What would be really useful is if there was a third-party organization like lending club or something that I could go through to make it an actual official loan. Zeta Taskforce posted:DON'T DO THIS!!! DemonLlama posted:Its a terrible idea.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2013 15:08 |
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Thought people here would appreciate this blog post: Five Money Excuses That Held Me Back (and How I Overcame Them) http://lifehacker.com/five-money-excuses-that-held-me-back-and-how-i-overcam-1441083773
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2013 14:24 |
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Hattusa posted:I've heard that major banks like Chase process transactions in batches ordered from smallest to largest. Why? Because paychecks are often relatively large, which means all those $5 Starbucks coffees go through first to rack up their $30 overdraft fees while you're "overdrawn". I will say the one big advantage of Bank of America is that when I deposit something, they tend to put up to $200 instantly in my account. And that's both deposit at an ATM or upload a check by taking a picture. I use them for my checking and Ally for emergency savings. Downside is BoA I think requires auto deposit to avoid paying a checking fee, but my company does auto deposit so I'm good for that.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2013 23:18 |
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Cicero posted:On a related note, do people usually factor in unemployment payouts into their emergency fund? To me it seems logical to include that, but I guess you could exclude it on the basis that it's not strictly guaranteed (e.g. you could get fired with cause and be denied benefits). Personally, the thinking of "well, factor in worst case scenario" means you should not keep that in mind. So basically, the mindset of putting aside a little bit more for the absolute worst case means you have a little bit more security anyway. I've been unemployed twice (thankfully for very short periods) and money goes FAST when you have no income. I would say better safe than sorry. It isn't a large enough amount to consider the lower percentage you get in savings vs investment.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2013 23:52 |
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Where could this ever go wrong? Beyond ethics, I would just say if you have the extra time and/or need to do this, you need a better career. It's also a pretty big risk.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2013 21:58 |
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FrozenVent posted:Your emergency fund is supposed to earn a rate of return like airbags are supposed to make your car go faster. This should be in the OP.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2013 21:36 |
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Hughmoris posted:What is the easiest, most painless way to check my current credit score? Everything I look at wants me to sign up for a "trial period" which is a pain in the rear end to cancel. Creditkarma.com. it is apparently accurate usually within 50 points, and unless you are getting a house from what people here post that should be fine. I personally like the site and find it helpful to check once every 6 months.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2013 03:35 |
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martyrdumb posted:Does Chexsystems follow you around forever? I thought this poo poo was supposed to go away after 5 years. But I just got declined when I tried to open an account with Charles Schwab online. I did have a Fifth Third account that was overdrawn by $4 back in 2006 or 2007 and ended up getting charged off because I refused to pay over $200 in overdraft fees (due to their reordering of transactions which actually got them to settle a class-action lawsuit in 2011). I had a similar 5th 3rd issue when I briefly tried them in 2008. Worst bank ever.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2013 03:42 |
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Zyme posted:My parents have took out a whole life insurance policy on me when I was born and have been paying into it ever since, and have taken money out of it at various times to do lord knows what. They are now offering to give it to me to do what I want with it. From what I can tell, it has a monthly expense charge of $5.00, and the "cost of insurance" for me is currently $19.71 per month, which increases every year. The guaranteed interest rate is 4.5%, which is what the current interest rate is, not surprisingly. The death benefit is about $200k, and the cash value is $1,885. If I didn't put any more money into it, it would apparently last another 10 years, or so the latest policy statement claims. I had an $8,000 investment with a similar policy from my family, personally they're just not great. Cash it out and put it towards your savings or Roth or whatever. Or hookers and blow I guess. Someone did the math here, and if mine would have been in a standard S&P investment instead the $7,000 put down would have been something like $30,000 instead of $8,000. Depressing.
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2013 13:03 |
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# ¿ May 18, 2024 13:03 |
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T. J. Eckleburg posted:
Where the gently caress do you live that your rent is only $450? I'm. Only jealous, I live in Philly and my rent is $1100 (granted it's a two bedroom). I would just say good job being on the ball with general finances, most people are not in your position at that age.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2013 11:47 |