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Assuming I want the tools featured, is this a good deal or is Milwaukee always doing this stuff? I'm new to keeping my eye out for Milwaukee deals... vvvv Thanks, haven't been following the new, still catching up on the old. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 21:38
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Sointenly posted:Just a heads up. I picked up the Drill kit with a free right angle drill the other day. The first 3 Home Depot's i tried were sold out of the $99 drill kit. It looks like this is a very popular promotion. Yeah I got the impact driver and they were sold out of the two things I wanted: a right angle drill or 4 Ah battery. It only took 45 minutes with 3 tiers of customer service reps to pay the right price for the deal and have a reasonable expectation I'll get the free thing for free when it shows up.
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Aug 27, 2014 18:29
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Sointenly posted:Ran across what I think is another good 12v deal. What store? Or more importantly, do they have them in MA/NH?
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Sep 5, 2014 17:15
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Isn't the point of impact bits avoiding being grenaded by your tool? I figured they were less brittle or whatever. Honest question, I have no clue and am a new idiot impact driver owner.
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Sep 9, 2014 12:59
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Housh posted:Ok I am having trouble deciding between two drill kits: Milwaukee 2691-22 18V Compact Drill and Impact Driver combo that everyone on Amazon is buying or the M12 Drill and Impact (MTL2411-20) which is like a micro drill but people claim it's powerful. Be aware the way Milwaukee keep the battery sizes small on the 12 V tools is to jam some of the cells up inside the grip. This makes the bottom of the grip flare out and feels strange for my small hands. With the Milwaukee 18 V tools and any other manufacture tools just a connector goes up into the grip. I would go to a store where you can handle the tools to see if you're okay with this.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:50
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I have the 44" HF tool chest and it's great. Some dude did a lot of research and found out they use pretty OK construction techniques and features for that price.melon cat posted:I've triple-checked, and I know exactly what you're talking about. But it isn't spring-loaded. This townhouse was built in a very cheap, mass-produced fashion and I wouldn't mind smacking the builder for their design decisions. For example, in order to get behind the washer dryer you need to remove the water heater. Just lose some weight and stop dressing like a clown so you don't have to take the mirror off at all.
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Sep 19, 2014 03:25
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Anubis posted:bfads.net is always good for early scans. Here is the review of the Harbor Freight tool chest that convinced me to buy one. Guy dissects ball bearing tracks and crawls around on the floor comparing gussets or whatever. Cheap and works great.
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Nov 8, 2014 05:55
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Checking in to say the Milwaukee hoodie is pretty boss. Not sure if it's worth the cost, but the wife loves it, she's always freezing. The inside of the sleeves is super soft fleecy sweatshirt material, and the body is lined with waffle-type thermal underwear material. All in all seems like an OK-built sweatshirt. Only the upper chest and back is heated, and we noticed that if it's baggy/big on you and it's the top layer, you're not going to feel much heat. This is something I'd buy smallish or wear something over so it is tight on your chest. I'd say buy a size down. The battery also jams into you a bit in a bucket car seat, but in normal seats it's pretty easy to move around a little bit. Standing up you don't notice it at all. You can also get them as standalone hoodie if you have a bunch of chargers and batteries.
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Dec 29, 2014 15:28
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Dragyn posted:This is probably the closest thing I can find to a "should I buy this?" thread. I'm only marginally sure of this, but I don't believe a single-stage machine is going to touch the concrete berm the plows deposit in MA in a nominal or higher storm. Not saying you're out of luck, just be aware you'll probably have some shoveling to do as well if you're sticking with single-stage. The plow crap is where my snowblower makes me glad I overbought, basically. I'm glad to be corrected if someone's experience is that they breeze through the stuff but my 10 hp 2-stage can struggle on the lowest speed. I always assumed people with single-stage just lived with doing the 90% (by area) with the snowblower and the other 90% (by weight) with a shovel. e: also to be fair I'm close to the NH border, you may get significantly less snow southerly and coastally. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Dec 29, 2014 |
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Dec 29, 2014 20:23
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I've been considering a small light-duty compressor (airing things up, blowing dust, etc) without the real consideration for any tools that will be run by it. One of the things putting me off is the accessories/hoses etc. I am sort of envisioning this aspect to be the part where I can avoid the most frustration with some advice. Is there good hose management/quality of life stuff I can buy to accessorize a compressor? Like are there certain hoses, hose reels, regulators, rotary joints, etcetera that are going to reduce the gently caress THIS aspect of using the thing? I'm OK spending a little bit, I just don't want to never bust it out because it's a huge pain in the rear end with kinked hoses, who knows what else. I guess on the same topic of hose management, is there a step up from the lovely rolling carts for water hose management? I have like three of the $50 Home Despot jobs that are all broken and they suck to work with when not broken.
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Jan 5, 2015 17:48
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SA Success Story: Snowblower Edition
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Jan 5, 2015 18:21
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Crotch Fruit posted:I am curious to know more about the issues you are having. What type of hose did you try that you disliked? All I know so far is according to the cartons at Home Depot, PVC hose is light and resists kinks, while rubber hose does not try to curl up like PVC. So far, I only have one nylon spring style coil up hose from Harbor Freight and I'm sure I will need eventually need a real hose. I've actually never had/used anything other than a lovely Sears $20 (inflator) job, it's just I envision a compressor and accessories to be one of those things that'll cause disproportionate levels of frustration if I don't get some advice. Maybe just buying the Campbell-Hausfeld MY FIRST COMPRESSOR Accessory Pack is fine, idk.
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Jan 6, 2015 17:01
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PuTTY riot posted:Is there a place that will rent me a FLIR camera for a weekend? I'd love to get one during a cold snap, but don't see myself using it more than a couple of times. Home Depot, I think they quoted me $70 a day. Think I started from http://www.flir.com/homedepot/ uwaeve fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 22:55
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Hackan Slash posted:My father didn't lie when he told me that buying a house would give me a compulsion to buy tools. Documenting farts.
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Jan 23, 2015 00:19
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ajcz posted:General Pump makes pressure washer pumps. If you've been out of the pump scene for a while you may know them as Colonel Pump.
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Feb 4, 2015 02:10
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melon cat posted:Are the Milwaukee heated jackets/sweaters a silly gimmick, or are they actually worth the money? I'll be doing a lot of work in my garage (lots of sawing) and we're having some pretty terrible winter weather. Grabbed one for my wife and she lives in it. Tried it a couple times and it's pretty toasty. It's only heated in the upper chest/back area, not a big deal but just don't expect a fully heated thing. Also make sure you get it snug, if it's baggy like a normal sweatshirt the heat isn't near as noticeable. I'm not a sweatshirt enthusiast but it does feel pretty nice disregarding the fact that it's heated. The core is lined with like waffle thermal material and the sleeves and hood have the super soft nap stuff in the inside.
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Feb 9, 2015 15:41
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Crotch Fruit posted:You say your only heats the upper body, is it one of the newer models with the hand warmer? The hand warmer is down near the waist so I assume it would heat your lower body too. I cant justify spending that much on a Milwaukee jacket (but I would love a plain hoodie with the logo. . .) mainly because it is simply not cold enough here and I don't want to use my batteries for a jacket. From what I remember the hoodies have "3 zones" (upper back, right chest, left chest) and the jackets have "5 zones" (those three plus two pocket zones as handwarmers). I could be wrong and there could be some old/new distinction there as well. I got the hoodie and there's definitely nothing in the bottom half except comfy pockets.
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Feb 10, 2015 05:14
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I may have even asked this here before, but is any old cheapo pancake compressor fine for just inflating things/compressed air for blowing stuff off other stuff?
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Apr 4, 2015 17:37
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stealie72 posted:Compressor chat: Here is the review I used to settle on the HF one I got, and if you aren't in a huge rush they often offer coupons, I can't remember the exact amount but it's not an insignificant discount. e: looking at the $390 price makes me think I got it for $330 if memory serves. I had also heard stories of particular stores not honoring copied/printed coupons, but it seemed like it was a per-store thing. Reasonable to call and check before pulling the trigger, in other words. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 27, 2015 |
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Jul 27, 2015 18:49
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Speaking of rolling toolboxes, who makes affordable ones that still have a fair bit of quality? Strangely enough, Harbor Freight, wait for a sale you can get them at like 20% off once or twice a year (this advice is five years old, may not work any more).
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Feb 23, 2016 05:11
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Walked posted:Two tools I need to pick up in the coming months as we start tackling the yard of the new house we bought. I dunno about deals/value but I love my Husqvarna saw and blower. Consider mulching your leaves in the fall. Looks sort of lovely for the fall and early spring, and you have to keep up with it during the fall. However, once the lawn and its inhabitants wake up in spring it disappears into free organic matter, good for the lawn.
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Apr 19, 2016 15:10
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Axiem posted:I admit my general trimmer ignorance; I don't really know how auto-feed works or how it's any good. I can't use a normal reel of that green plastic line stuff with it? I'm not really sure even what questions to ask. Most line trimmers will take the spool line (buy the right diameter, should be marked on the head somewhere), and will reload something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJqb_0JxZBw Not sure about others' systems, but I know some, including mine, just let string out if you bump the big button on the bottom against the pavement. Feeds out an inch or two a bump, so as it gets worn down, you just bump more out. You can also buy aftermarket heads that will hold little pre-cut lines in little swiveling things, but that seems like a waste of money to me. Axiem posted:I think I need to buy a book on "how do I care lawn?" I don't have a book handy, and it really depends on what your goals are, but if you can stand to read up and pull some info together yourself, here are my recommendations. A lawn is a pretty complex thing and can be pretty individual to your yard (even different parts of your yard). Read up on your local extension service, it'll be through a university or something. They have a great deal of non-sales-driven knowledge to give you. Google your county or state and extension. For instance, in MA we have the UMASS Amherst extension, which publishes stuff like this: https://ag.umass.edu/turf/professional-turf-ipm-guide. Expect sites to be poorly organized and a pain to deal with, but you will find gold if you dig around. The forums and articles here: http://aroundtheyard.com/ are fairly helpful and friendly. Even though the majority of regulars are doing high-level monoculture kentucky bluegrass lawns and buying like greens mowers, if you get a soil test and state your goals they will help out with a plan. Articles are good to start with. Again, from everything I've found, you're going to need to either sort of integrate info for yourself, or wind up putting stuff down on your lawn you don't really need or it winds up being real expensive.
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May 2, 2016 15:35
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(While we've owned a Black & Decker cordless trimmer for a number of years, it's gotten almost 0 usage, and I never really knew how to use it). Is there a good place I can read up on how this stuff works?
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Cross posting as it might get more love here: Any recommendations on garage wall storage/track systems? I want all this poo poo off the floor. I have a shed that may want some as well, so ideally something for there could handle heavier poo poo like shovels, string trimmer, backpack blower etc. The garage would be mostly lighter stuff, but maybe a little giant ladder is the heaviest. If those heavier things are unworkable on the track systems I'm fine just getting vinyl coated hooks for them or whatever, alongside something more configurable.
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Jun 5, 2016 19:20
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I'm refinishing a deck and step one is making sure nails are set below the surface so I can run a sander for removal and leveling. The nails appear to have about a 5mm head, but I can't find any 5mm punches or sets except some specialty poo poo in australia or england that takes a month to ship. I bought a punch set but I believe it's supposed to be for drifting out pins, so the end of the 5mm one has got a sort of sharp edge and even using a deadblow hammer, the thing bounces around like mad. It's profiled different than a tapered nail set, so I'm not sure if it's springier due to that, or it's a different material, or what. So the multi-part question is: is there a better way to set nails in 900 square feet of deck? If I have to do it by hand, is there some better method than a pin drift and deadblow hammer, or is there a better hand tool to use? All the nail punches I find at Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Zoro or whatever top out at like 3/32, and I think I want 3/16. I mean obviously the nail shafts aren't 5mm diameter, just the heads, but I feel like using a smaller punch is just going to gently caress up the head of the nail and leave me with rust stains (assuming they're coated or whatever). Maybe just setting them is enough to do that anyways, I'm not sure. The answer may be to just buy kneepads and deal with it.
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Jun 10, 2016 16:43
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Pressure washer recommendations? I'm OK spending for something that isn't garbage, and am fine with another small engine, as I think I want a gas-powered one. If it's run out of gas I can throw it in my basement for the winter, right? I assume it will want no-ethanol fuel. It'll get used a couple times a year for fairly large crap (house, shed, driveway, deck, fences, brickwork around planters). Under $400 would be good, I don't need contractor-grade stuff, I just want good quality and usability. If someone can tell me what are brands to head towards or stay away from, I can check out features. WIth a long enough hose, can I wash off the second floor of a house using a ladder? How about third? I'm not looking to do gutters, happy to pay someone for that. I just want to blast the general dirt/cobwebs/occasional hornet nest away. I have the consumer reports recommendations, but of course the actual reviews on the home depot or lowe's sites are all over the map.
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Jun 15, 2016 15:09
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It depends also on what you are planning to do, but for weekend warriorish stuff Milwaukee's 12V FUEL (brushless) stuff is pretty good on power and run time. I have the 12V FUEL impact and 1/2" FUEL drill, and they are pretty powerful and run for days. Ive done a couple full-day projects (like a playground with shitloads of screws for the planking and roof) on a couple battery charges each, if memory serves. I have some 18V stuff but it's the recip saw and soon-to-be circular saw. As I understand it, stuff like that really needs the high amp-hour batteries. Never used the 12V hackzall or whatever but it seemed like it would be a problem for any actual extended use, and so far it's been validated by how much I run the battery down with the 18V sawzall over some projects. This probably doesn't help too much, but I guess I'd sum it up as: It's really nice to pull out small, light tools and still have them be functional, which I've found the 12V brushless stuff to be, but for tools that are going to do a lot of work (high power, run time, or both), you will probably be better served with 18V. That being said, I will probably eventually get the 18V impact driver, but I won't have any buyers remorse about getting the 12V FUEL one. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 2, 2016 |
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Jul 28, 2016 21:36
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OSU_Matthew posted:I see that you have made an excellent life choice! Those three amp hour batteries are plenty, unless you're using an angle grinder for more than a few cuts. It seems redundant to have a drill and impact driver, but I seriously get about equal use from both, especially as you need the drill for stuff like hole saws and kreg big stuff, and the impact driver is just tits to use anywhere else Plus there's no luxury like having the drill to do pilot holes and then grab the impact driver to buzz poo poo in.
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Jul 30, 2016 04:10
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I'm about to buy my first circular saw, and need a quick sanity check. I've bought into the Milwaukee M18 line, so I'll be choosing between the 6.5" 2730 and 7.25" 2731. I understand the 6.5" has the blade on the left, whereas the 7.25" has the blade on the right, and that blade availability may be better with the 7.25". I'm not sure to what extent 6.5" availability has caught up, because a lot of forum posts citing that as a concern were 5-10 years old. I don't really have a pre-existing bias on blade side, and will probably be happy with either. The 6.5" one is 10% lighter (saw only) and $20 cheaper, with a slightly diminished depth of cut, as is expected. My questions are: 1. Is it really personal preference regarding blade side? I've seen arguments about visibility of the sight line, safety (can't remember exactly the argument here), etc. For someone who hasn't really used one before, I assume I'll pick what I pick and just use it, unless people tend to have a serious boner for left-handed blades and the visibility of the line. 2. Both have a slot and thumbscrew for a rip fence, but a quick search doesn't turn up official Milwaukee rip fences for these saws (other models are called out). I assumed there was some standard size and a third-party one could be used, but I see a lot of Amazon reviews about how they are either too loose or too tight in the slot of various saws. Given that I don't have (and am not planning to get) a table saw, are rip fences a useful thing to worry about, or are they flexy, stamped-steel pieces of poo poo that are more trouble than they're worth? I have seen a bunch of stuff about how to rip using your finger on the shoe, how to DIY your own fences, clamping straightedges, etc, so it seems like there are other options. I just don't know if it's one of those things that people use often or just kind of a joke accessory. Seems like something on a single rod is going to be flexing and binding and whatever. I guess this is somewhat off-topic, because it doesn't really help me decide between the two saws I'm looking at. 3. Is the depth of cut specified to the absolute bottom of the blade (tangent line parallel to the shoe), or is it the recommended workpiece thickness (allowing some of the blade to stick through to get some nominal angle of the blade at the bottom of the workpiece)? The only reason I ask is it looks like the cut depth at a 45 degree bevel is 1.625" vs 1.8125". I guess my concern is if this is to the bottom of the blade, and you do want some nominal angle on the bottom surface, does that mean the 6.5" one is unsuitable for a 45 degree bevel on 2x lumber? I guess I'm wondering if there's any reason not to get the 7.25", if there are any differences I'm missing. Upcoming projects are going to be french cleat storage for the garage (probably something like this) and resurfacing a deck and replacing railings and railing posts. I'll have access to a miter saw and probably a lovely table saw for both, so it's not like I'm expecting to have to use the circular for everything, but I'm thinking it's about time to add it to the toolbox. I also understand a corded one will be better for power and runtime, but I'm mostly going to be weekend warrioring it, and the cordless (especially with the runtime/power advertised with the brushless motor) is probably going to serve me well.
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Aug 2, 2016 01:29
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Sointenly posted:Do yourself a favor and pickup a tracksaw, the big brands can be pricey but there are good inexpensive versions also (such as Scheppach). I've had one for maybe a 2-3 years and it's just kind of occurring to me how often i use that thing. From ripping plywood, to putting a bevel on a door, cutting wide widths that your sliding miter doesn't have enough bite for... seriously, it's worth every penny. Track saws seem awesome, I will do some more research. Are you implying that, as someone with zero saws, I should get a track saw before a circular? Not challenging you, just trying to understand. Seems like I could use it as a circular, but it needs to be plunged for every cut, and do I wind up loving up the shoe if I use it without the track regularly? edit: wait were you even responding to me?
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Aug 2, 2016 23:16
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Welp, I own a track saw.
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Aug 9, 2016 00:01
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OSU_Matthew posted:
You'll be happy to know that I got both. The track saw is loving huge and heavy, not really a one-handed tool from a couple uses with it, so I figured I still need something to just crosscut random things. Plus I'm a huge baby about cleanliness and tools that work well and I can picture myself eventually loving up the shoe on the track saw to the point it starts tearing up the plastic glide strips on the track. I doubt it's an issue, but hey, gently caress money. I appreciated the budget idea with the circular and that Kreg jig, but for whatever reason I decided to grab the track saw for this project and breaking down sheet goods in the future. I just convinced my dad to relocate all his poo poo up to my house so that freed up the money I was budgeting for a table saw and miter saw. And apparently drill press, bench sander, radial arm saw, band saw, scroll saw...and whatever else he can foist off on me. Falco posted:Which one did you end up buying? I was thinking about picking one up for ripping sheet goods on some upcoming projects. I got the DeWalt with both size tracks. I looked long and hard at the Grizzly/Scheppach ones but saw a lot of "pull it out of the box and then do these three fixes" reviews, so just decided to yolo it for one that looked like it worked great out of the box. gently caress Festool, I got the DeWalt and the two tracks for the price of just the Festool saw. So it was down to the DeWalt and Makita at similar prices. I read some comparisons and watched some videos and the lack of riving knife and anti-kickback on the Makita sealed it. The plunge mechanism is different too (sort of a linkage on the DeWalt vs. a single pivot on everything else), but since I don't have any bias (someone mentioned they didn't like it because it was DIFFERENT from what they were used to), it didn't bother me. I don't know if the Makita track is any longer, but the DeWalt 102" track BARELY gets through the 96" cut with the saw on the track, it's a matter of having the thing positioned to within an inch to get the track hanging off the correct amount at the start and end of the cut, but it will do it. I just marked the track but it takes a little fiddling to find it, and I am betting the acceptable window goes down with thicker stuff because of the blade angle on the bottom surface of the workpiece. The only other thing I'll say is that ripping at 45 degrees, you need to sort of hold the shoe down/hold the saw up or the saw will tip, I think other brands may have some anti-tip thing, so maybe keep that in mind. edited to add: Also I'm not sure if this is the same across all brands but the blade, while 6.5" diameter, has a different sized arbor than a regular 6.5" circular saw (20mm on track saw and 5/8" on regular), so apparently I'm buying special snowflake tracksaw blades v0v. The track saw blade is DeWalt DW5258 with 0.086" kerf, 0.063" plate, 48t with 20mm arbor, the Freud blade is 40t with 5/8" arbor and a 0.059" kerf, so wouldn't even cut wide enough for the riving knife if it fit on the arbor. Have used it to rip the 45 degree french cleat hangers and had a huge grin on my face the whole time, it just skates along. I did it off the edge of some sawhorses because I haven't yet built a cheapo rack for the SUV to get big sheet stuff home (the foam or another sheet of plywood). One cool feature is that, while the track is pretty rigid, it is flexible enough to conform to the little bit of profile that the plywood had when I sighted down the long edge I was ripping, for instance. I also got the clamp set that has one foot and the other slides along the bottom of the track, I am betting the other brands have something similar but it's all so easy to use. I'm so used to using the wrong tool or some Harbor Freight garbage tool or something from the 40s that ISN'T like some solidly built heirloom thing, but just poo poo my dad found at the dump and was too cheap to pass up. I did my test cuts on a sheet of plywood that was used as a bulletin board thing, hung from the rafters in the basement from the previous owner. Maybe when I have the ten or so sheets of plywood delivered I'll spring for some various 2x and a couple 1/2" sheets and maybe they'll deliver a couple sheets of the foam crap too. Thanks to the people suggesting the track saw, though my wallet hates you. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Aug 10, 2016 |
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Aug 10, 2016 17:48
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Falco posted:Thank you so much for the extremely detailed reply including your thoughts and comparisons against some of the other brands. Woodworking definitely isn't my primary hobby so it's really tough to drop big money on tools at this point. But then again, my family is requesting more and more projects that would be so much easier with the right tool. And I'm with you on usually using a tool that will get you by but definitely isn't the tool made for the job. I've got a circular saw, small job site table saw and miter saw, but doing cuts on sheet goods with any of those is not amazing. I've been meaning to either pick up the Kreg rip cut jig or make one that I can clamp to the sheet as a guide. It may not be perfect, but it has to be a hell of a lot better than free handing the circular or trying to push a giant sheet through a job site table saw. Sure thing, just bear in mind I'm new to all this, not a woodworker, etc. so my thoughts and comparisons need to be taken with a lot of salt. It's not like I've used the others for instance, and who knows how important the features like the riving knife are. I sort of looked at it as anything that can help me to not fire the saw through the garage wall when it binds up is a good thing. Furthermore, I am not convinced that the circ saw and the Kreg jig wouldn't do exactly what I needed, I guess the main reason I went with the track saw is confidence in my abilities. The track saw seems like I'd have to work really hard to gently caress up what I was trying to do with it. I guess all I'm saying is I think they're all valid options (homemade jig, Kreg jig, Grizzly tracksaw, Makita/Dewalt-level tracksaw, Festool tracksaw). Zhentar posted:The Makita short track is 55" and the long track is 118", so whether you two shorts or the long, it's plenty for a straight across 96" cut. (Note that if this becomes a problem for you, the DeWalt's shoe actually has a second slot in it so that it can ride the Makita/Festool tracks; of course you lose the ability to cut on either side of the track with those). The Makita has the anti-tip feature for angled cuts but no riving knife, as you noted. Thanks for the tips about the other tracks. And that makes sense that the Makita has the anti-tip thing. These are all good things to consider that I sort of didn't, and probably a better thing to consider than a single feature or whatever.
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Aug 10, 2016 20:17
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Two random questions: Are more expensive stud finders better at locating studs, or do they simply have extra features? Just starting out, will I be relatively happy with an all-in one type blade for a table saw or am I better served swapping out blades depending on what I'm doing? I see a Diablo 50t multipurpose blade with the deep gullets and I'm guessing a rip tooth like every 5 or 6 teeth, alternately there's just a 40t general purpose one.
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Aug 17, 2016 14:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have never been as happy with any electronic studfinder as I have been with this little thing. Seemingly none of my house's studs are where they should be, either at 16"-on-center or 24"-on-center, so stud-mounting anything has always been a pain in the dick. I've had electronic ones false-positive repeatedly, but this one never misses. Thanks, I ordered one. In the interim I realized I have little neodymium button magnets and those seem to work well too. I always thought magnets were like the poor man's method, but I must have been trying with ceramic ones.
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Aug 19, 2016 13:30
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Ok, gather 'round for three learning moments with the track saw. 1. It didn't cut square out of the box, needed some back and forth adjustment so that it not only cut square but the indicator corresponded to anything approaching reality. You can't loosen the indicator pointer without the stop adjustment screws backed out, but when they are backed out it's not set up square. So back and forth counting quarter turns of the stop screws, seeing what the indicator pointer said, etc. 2. The depth adjustment knob needs to be really tight. In the middle of a cut I put a little too much weight on the saw, because it slid the stop to the end, plunging through the 1" foam insulation and right onto the concrete floor. The tooth bevels no longer alternate. RIP $33, luckily I had ordered a second so I could keep working. I did wind up using the blade to offset measurements with a combination square, but I'm betting I could have gotten a 0.086" shim for less than $33. 3. At the 45 degree setting, the blade is offset from the splinter guard on the track enough that it makes a difference in the quality of the cut. The track has two edges, im thinking about making the other side 45 degrees (I haven't cut using that side yet, and you actually trim the rubber splinter guard on your first pass). Then I'm going to run into measuring and marking problems, though, with the rubber splinter guard being wider at the top than bottom. The splintering and tearout isn't dooming my project, but just an FYI for anyone cutting bevels like myself, the top surface will have stuff not held down by the splinter guard.
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Aug 23, 2016 02:33
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DreadLlama posted:Hogweed, Sumac, and Prickly Ash are assholes. If you want to risk lighting the field on fire, the propane weed killing torches are not meant to burn the weeds up, you simply wave the torch at the leaves until they get glossy, which means you've burst the cell walls and the plant will die. That thing is called a pole saw or pole pruner, unfortunately so is a hand saw on a stick, but the term may help you. I've had good luck clearing poo poo with an adjustable hedge trimmer attachment for a power head that will drive a bunch of accessories. They also sell the pole saw attachment, which I don't own (all I have are the hedge trimmer and string trimmer head). Shits expensive but reliable, and you can also find cheaper alternatives at like sears or home despot as well.
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Sep 11, 2016 01:38
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Went Milwaukee for the 18v and super happy with the circular saw, sawzall, LED lights, and handheld blower I wound up with. Not sure if all those are available with other lines.
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Nov 23, 2016 05:33
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Going to replace the decking on my deck. Existing structure looks sound, and I'm not positive the deck will be in its current configuration in 4-7 years, so I'm going to do PT lumber again rather than composite just to keep cost down. It's going to be 1x5.5" (true) PT lumber with a fair amount of angles to cut around a bay-window type bump out, and some odd angles to match up a main section to a pool deck, all at or under 45 degrees though. 1. Is this a reasonable saw to buy for the project? Currently priced OK, and way less than the 12" sliding one, which seems to just be heavier and a pain in the rear end for what I'd be doing. Probably also going to spring for the long rear end stand since I'll be using 12' boards. 2. Anyone ever used Camo brand fasteners? Seems like a reasonable system, and would let me rent a floor sander down the road if I wanted to resurface. 3. I'm probably going to get a dumpster or something delivered for the removed material. I calculated the volume of just wood (2.5 yards) but I'm wondering if someone has advice on how much over to estimate (nails exist and it's not like I'm going to be stacking the boards perfectly). Should I like double it? Second two questions may not belong here but you guys seem pretty on the ball for this type of poo poo.
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May 30, 2017 18:44
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm about 40 miles NW of Boston. I'll keep looking around for rental places. Same here, I've used Taylor, Home Depot in Tewksbury/Leominster, and Rip It Up rental (Leominster, I think attached to Powell Stone?) for smaller stuff, not sure if those leads help. Mr. Mambold posted:a circular saw and speedsquare is perfectly acceptable for decks, unless you've got a compelling reason to have a miter saw. The compelling reason to have a miter saw is they're great and super accurate. Also, the circular saw is more portable to use and set up and about 1/3rd the cost. I agree that it's not needed, it's a nice to have. I think I have talked myself into grabbing a miter saw regardless of this project, but this is probably the most demanding thing I'll be doing with it. It's more "am I missing something out there for similar money that has some can't-live-without features," and a sanity check that I'll be able to do up to 1x5.5" and 4x4" at 45 degrees and under. I have fondled some in stores that have the capacity of a slider but it's on a 4-bar linkage or something, it may be Makita or Bosch. I've compared the manuals and it seems like DeWalt just does what is expected, I think it's the Makita 12" non-slider that you have to start removing subfences for routine poo poo or you risk interfering with the blade... no thanks. I'm sure they'll all work, but I've also read good things about the LED light guide as opposed to a laser. I have a lovely old no-name miter saw with a bent 1-piece cast fence. Same with the stand: a nice-to-have thing. I don't currently plan on setting this up in a workshop as shown in Bad Munki's post, that's for down the road. Mainly I just want something for dimensional lumber up to 2x6 at 45 at this point.
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May 31, 2017 03:11
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 01:53 |
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The Midniter posted:It's not really a tool, but as new homeowners my wife and I are quickly finding we need more space to store all of the tools and landscaping stuff we're accumulating. We don't have a garage and our crawlspace is a pain in the rear end to access. I recommend wood with exposed studs, I am in the process of putting French cleats everywhere to make my poor mans track storage system for all the crap you're talking about in my shed. Pro tip if you are likely to get a big mower deck in the future, a lot of the standard doors won't handle the bigger (like 54" wide) ones , so it may pay to plan for that or you're not gonna be able to bring home that sweet $16k garden tractor and store it in the shed. Sadly I have no experience with he other materials, the house came with the one we have. Oh also you will have mice in there, hope you don't mind your mower vaporizing a family of mice every spring.
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Jun 1, 2017 05:20
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