Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Unironically true, google "builder grade." In other words, "this fixture will hold bulbs!! And also turn on!!! For $10."

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Kenny Logins posted:

Why not the side of the stall? Because there was a fully-functional casement window right in the middle of it. It came furnished with cheap painted metal 1/2" venetian blinds, for our privacy you see, and a crank that had totally seized. After the first year we noticed the windowsill was pretty much constantly mildewed due to being soaking wet most of the time, so the landlord's solution was to mount a tension rod with shower curtain high up on the wall to cover the window down to the edge of the tub. Not only did that eventually get pretty gross, but where the tension rods touched the wall it greatly accelerated the paint removal process (pictured above) to be even worse than depicted..
Shower windows are pretty normal in older houses, practically standard here in New York, for light and ventilation. The double shower curtain isn't the best way of dealing with it, but I don't think it's super strange; my current apartment has a rod for it. And all shower curtains eventually get gross if allowed to . . .

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Even something as simple as an apartment-sized microwave seems impossible to find. I have a 1920s apartment with a small stove, and the cabinet above it is just over 26" across. Good luck finding anything you can mount there. You're looking at RV poo poo that costs more than a TV :emo:

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 2, 2014

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

ColHannibal posted:

My old apartment had one of those Microwaves, took 10min to heat water for tea in it. I also had to put my plates in at an angle as they where too big.
It doesn't make too much sense, since there are a ton of countertop ones less than 26". How big are your plates though?!

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I'm in New York so I'm afraid I win this horrible competition. I really want an over-the-range microwave because between the sink and the stove, I have 14" of lateral counter space (one dish rack). That's it. That's also directly above the one drawer I have.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

The Human Cow posted:

One of my bathrooms has a window into the other bathroom! Why? Who knows! It's all the way at the top of the wall, so you can't even really see through it.
How old is your house and what's on the walls under the window? Might have been a transom.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I have a hollow door that lets in a lot of noise. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the top and filling it with foam. I of course have no clue exactly how much empty space is inside or how it's laid out. Is this a crazy idea? If not, would that be the best kind of foam for the job, or is there something even more low-expansion/sound-reducing?

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Apr 10, 2014

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Leperflesh posted:

Keep in mind that Simple Green, especially undiluted, is fantastic at stripping latex paint. Over in the Trad Games forum we use the stuff for stripping the paint off of tiny man dolls.

I used some while cleaning up my cabinet above the new vent, until I started to get peeling paint and had to stop.
Hypothetically, if someone had done this and caused the paint to be permanently softened, is there any way to re-cure it or would it be best to strip it completely and repaint from scratch?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Unfortunately I rent, and it's the door to the hallway, so replacing it isn't an option. It's a metal door and frame, if that helps. I've seen it suggested, so I'm not just making poo poo up, but obviously I'm skeptical too.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
They would notice if I replaced the door and it didn't match the 20 others in the hall. They wouldn't notice if I spent half an hour squirting foam into it. I'm open to any other suggestions too. This is a long-term rental, I'll be here for like 10 years, so I don't mind fixing it up in easy/medium ways, but obviously I don't want to gently caress anything up.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
It's the latter. The door and frame are both metal. The metal of the door seems thin enough that in the center, you can push on it and the layer you're touching readily flexes. It's a big 1920s apartment building, and many elements are still original, so the doors may be too (no idea). The walls are super thick plaster and lath that transmit almost no sound, so the door problem is especially obvious.

I definitely don't want to be a pain in the rear end to the management company. If I can't do anything without involving them, I'll probably skip it, unfortunately.


Amykinz posted:

Simple Green EATS the stuff that makes the paint hard. The paint is effectively ruined, there's no way to 'fix' it. I'd strip/scrape the area down and sand over the existing paint edge and repaint. You don't have to strip the entire thing, unless you really want to.
Thanks! It's not a big area, and enough of it is gummy that it seems easier to redo it all. My mom always used Simple Green on everything, I had no idea it ate latex :saddowns:

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I wasn't pulling this out of my rear end, it's brought up a bunch on the internet. The product we were discussing is called Window & Door with minimal expansion, so it wasn't exactly clear it would expand too much for a door. Anyway, I'd like to see a door explode in slow motion, but not my door. I'll probably go with Nitrox's suggestion unless anyone has anything better.

I can take pics if that would help at all. I'm still not sure the door has a chambered interior, or if it does, it doesn't seem to be attached to itself given the way the sides flex. Anyone know what the hell they were putting in 1920s apartment buildings?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I have hardwood floors, it seems easier to start burning there. Will report back next winter.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
It isn't a fire safety door, or at least it has no sticker/writing to that effect. It's hollow, flexible metal. The more I look at it, the more I think it is 1920s original, so who knows what fire code was like then. But this is all hypothetical because :siren: I'm not filling it with foam. I guess it's not clear but I gave up that idea after one naysayer; I'm not fighting back. I have no desire to do dumbass poo poo, make my management company hate me, and live in a burned-out post-apocalyptic cave.

e: I do hope someone else does it and youtubes it, though

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jan 16, 2017

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
A showerhead like this buys you a foot in five minutes. With a handheld option like that, you could also get a separate holder that sticks anywhere on the wall with a Command-esque strip.

You could definitely pay $50 (or $500 or god knows what) for a showerhead, but I really like this one.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Vindolanda posted:

Are you the same person who wanted to fill your fire door with expanding foam?
No, that was me (but it wasn't a fire door). I didn't do it obv.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
My family's house is about 95. I'm pretty sure there's more corrosion than copper at this point. It also sweats like crazy.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
My parents have a hyper-powered toilet (my dad's 6'6", it was the one with the tallest seat). That thing is terrifying. You could absolutely lose a cat or small dog down it.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Oops

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jan 16, 2017

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

neogeo0823 posted:

IIRC, it was about some guy who wanted to sound-proof a fire rated hollow metal door, and suggestions ranged from "hang egg cartons/heavily towels/etc on it" to "drill a hole in it and fill it with foam". Much stupidity was had, and we were all worse off for it.
It was me and the door was hollow metal, but not fire-rated. Diy sites recommended filling it with foam, which I thought sounded kinda dumb but who knows, so I asked here. Everyone made fun of it/me, I did not foam it up, and there were no entertaining but hard-to-explain explosions.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I would actually like to see it too. The product is Window & Door Foam. It's supposed to provide excellent insulation with minimal expansion, and it specifically says "This low-pressure window and door foam will not warp or deform windows and doors."

I think the chance of a fuckup is too high to risk pissing off my super/landlord, but I still want to see it done with a spare door in a backyard.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
No, it just wasn't intuitive to me that a hollow metal door would be way, way more prone to warping than a hollow metal doorframe would be.

v I got it now, thanks, I am not foam-exploding anything :)

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Apr 6, 2015

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
LEDs aren't $30 anymore. The best 40- or 60-watt equivalent is around $10, less if you get a six-pack or wait for a sale.

One question for me is what to do when you move. I live in NYC, so people move a ton, and I don't think anyone will want to leave $50ish in bulbs behind. When I upgraded to LEDs, I spergily set aside my old incandescents in the back of a closet.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Whoa, can you check your wiring? They aren't enclosed, are they? Cree is supposed to be the best, and I've had mine way longer than four months.

crazypeltast52 posted:

When I moved into my apartment, there were crappy incandescents in the sockets. When I leave, there will be crappy incandescents in the sockets. Between then I'm using my LEDs/hybrid bulbs.
Yeah, we're hoardery enough to save half-used incandescents, but a lot of people aren't, or are only upgrading when their incandescents fail. It's gonna be kind of interesting to see how that's handled when you can no longer get standard incandescents.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Tyson Tomko posted:

That's awesome I didn't realize how cheap LEDs had gotten. Any suggestions on what to use in say a fancy bathroom light fixture? I think the proper term is makeup table, like this:



Keep in mind this isn't mine, but the wife and girls have something that's basically the top 2/3 of that. I'd consider myself a borderline CFL expert but I'm dreadfully behind the times LED wise and all of the CFLs we've tried in the past just didn't look right (the various CFLs were put to good use elsewhere so no worries)
Color is going to be super, super important for a makeup table. Like they should all go to Home Depot and debate amongst themselves, because they're all going to have different needs and preferences.

That said, Cree has this "soft white true color" thing, where the color you see it shed looks normal and warmish, but the colors of items it illuminates are much more accurate than under incandescents. I use them in my kitchen and it's really neat.

That's just considering the aesthetics of the light, though. The aesthetics of the bulb are a different story, because they probably aren't going to love the look of a dozen exposed LED bulbs. I have a similar strip, and I actually stocked up on those incandescents before they were discontinued, because I don't think anything else looks right. I always do daytime makeup by natural light, though.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Our Home Depot stands are all Dunkin Donutses. God bless New England :911:

Never saw popcorn in a hardware store, though, what a disappointing lack.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

spog posted:

if you are spending that kind of scratch on a custom house, why design it so that you'll get a door handle in the small of your back every time your partner wants to ask you what you want for dinner when you've finished playing with your toys?
That's why you tell the chef what to make the day before, duh.

...I would love a tub that deep, though, I would absolutely do dumbass stuff like that if I were ludicrously rich. In the meantime I also want bookcases that shallow, but in no other way similar to those bookcases.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Nitrox posted:

That brown paper floor will have cracks in the varnish along the plywood edge lines in under a year. But we'll never hear about it
Did you miss the "one year later" followup post?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Here's the link. Tl;dr in general it looks fine, there are a few scratches and spots of wear under the crib wheels, and a mystery patch where the poly is flaking off.

She did her guest bedroom to match, and at the same time she resealed the bedroom with a different product. She hosed up, though (didn't let it dry between coats -- she acknowledges it was all on her), so the new finish is blistering.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Splizwarf posted:

You grew up without MAPP, that and a wire brush cleans a Man Stove in under a minutes. :smugdog:
Details please, my stovetop is permanently nasty although I'm not sure about its manliness

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Splizwarf posted:

e:D'oh, I meant to say 3 minutes in the above post.

If your stovetop is all metal and that metal can stand the intense heat of a handheld MAPP torch (which yes can be hilariously high but don't just leave the flame in one place the whole time) then you can clean your stovetop pretty much the same way ovens self-clean themselves. Take the torch and heat everything that's not stovetop until it's brittle and crackling, and the wire brush will rip it all right off. Recommended: good ventilation, a STIFF BRISTLE wooden wire brush (it won't catch fire without smokey warning, but a plastic one may melt or fume terribly, suddenly), and turn off the gas to the stove if at all possible. Since you're applying fire to a place where fire should normally go, logic says you should be okay, but logic hates you and wishes you were dead. I don't want to see "burned through gas line under burner on accident, lost fingat" tomorrow. Be careful and use the torch sparingly, avoiding stuff like gas lines, pets, chrome, and plastic/nonmetal parts. The manliness comment was referring to solid metal gas stoves. gently caress the hybrid ones that are like 80% or more plastic with a bit of metal burner, those are uncleanable without witchcraft.

MAPP is probably also bad for glass tops, because it really does get much hotter than a propane burner. Honestly, you could probably just use a propane torch, I bet that focused flame tip is still hotter than a stove burner. The point is that you need a roving pinpoint fire source to destroy the buried remnants of organic structure in tough messes (like boiled-over milk :smithicide:) and the wire brush is to break up and dislodge the resulting fragile crust. Doing it with MAPP is just Overblown Internet PosturingTM.
I was thinking about getting a MAPP torch anyway for cooking, and I'm pretty sure my stove is all enameled metal. I know I can turn off the gas at the wall. I'm still not sure I have enough nerve to give this a shot, but it would be so nice to have a clean stovetop (it had some old blackened stuff when I moved in, so it's never been really clean despite trying every stovetop cleaner they make). The stiff wire brush doesn't scratch the enamel? Is there one you recommend?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
The only actual kitchen pantry I've seen was my grandma's, which was also super shallow. Pantries are mostly for canned goods and dry goods like spices and stuff, which would all be shallow. For sugar and flour, there are tall narrow tupperwares that keep them airtight and safer than leaving them in bags. What else do you put in there?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Surely you wouldn't want your servants using the same staircase as you, gross

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I had never heard of the bathroom fan timers before, but now I'm positive my parents need one for Christmas. Please tell me if I'm going to kill myself or them if I do it myself.

I got this model with no neutral. I know to cut power at the fuse box before loving around. The only complication I see is that it's a two-gang box, but one is just lights and the other is just the fan, so I think I can swap out just the fan switch (I hope).

Any other potential pitfalls? I've swapped out toggle switches for dimmers before, so hopefully this is on the same difficulty level.

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 16, 2017

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Qwijib0 posted:

Looks as straightforward as you assume.
Thanks for the reassurance!

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Bad Munki posted:

The augur should have foreseen this problem
you deserve recognition for this one

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
A separate sink would use too much space and money, so let's include a urinal?

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
You want to see an old-school human staple gun, check out spitting tacks:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=LOKMhoIS9ck (super slow because it's a demo)
http://youtube.com/watch?v=oCviBqqWAv0 (more of an explanation)

Not construction but still nuts.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Raccoons?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Shouldn't picture rail be higher?

Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jan 16, 2017

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply