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Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

phospete posted:

The biggest project I've used them for was to make a device that would prime the hot water line between my master bathroom (which is on the opposite side of my house as the hot water heater) by pumping water from the hot water side to the cold water side, instead of just wasting water down the drain for two solid minutes every time I wanted to take a shower.

Is the pump forcing hot water back down the cold water supply line? How well does that work against the line pressure on the cold water line? I would have expected the pump to have a hell of a time fighting against the cold water pressure.

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Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

Base Emitter posted:

Welp, they're out now, and they were out when I saw this post on my phone earlier today.

I guess that means they're released but popular, and I should just be patient until somebody gets them in stock...


Maybe take a look at Teensy 3.0, which is a Due-alike in a bread-boardable form factor: http://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy3.html or at http://www.adafruit.com/products/1044 At $19 from pjrc, it's significantly cheaper than the Due.
It uses a Cortex M4. There's a Teensy-specific branch of the Arduino IDE available at http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/.

Both Teensy3.0 and the Due are fairly cutting edge right now, so there are definitely many Arduino libraries that don't quite work on the Cortex boards yet.

Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

Capntastic posted:

I have this LCD shield, and when it's stacked on top of this currently empty protoshield, the LCD is incapable of powering up fully. That's just voltage drop, right, and not something weird I'm failing to consider?

If that's the case then if I want to use the LCD shield while still having access to the digital pins, I'd need to get some stacking headers and sand down the LCD's board that's fixed to the top of the shield itself.

Did you try adjusting the contrast with the potentiometer on the LCD board? It's probably just that, because the prototype board shouldn't be causing any noticeable voltage drop.

Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

huhu posted:

I'm making a basic control system using the following elements:
- Arduino Uno
- 3x Temp Sensors https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050
- 2x Float Sensors http://www.aquahub.com/store/ifloatfloatswitch.html
- 1x LCD display https://www.sparkfun.com/products/255
- 2x LEDs

Is it correct to assume that these are the pin usages:

- Temp Sensors 3 pins, 3 Vin, 3 ground
- Float sensors 2 pins, 2 ground
- LCD display 9 pins, 1 Vin, 1 ground
- LEDs 2 pins, 2 ground

Which would mean I'm using 16 pins and will have to get a bigger board than the Arduino Uno? The operation of the system is that thee float sensors will trigger the LEDs and the temperature sensors will display temperature on the LCD. Maybe I could print all the info on the LCD and get rid of the two LED pins. Thoughts?

You should be able to run that LCD using only 6 data pins plus Vin and GND. http://learn.adafruit.com/character-lcds/wiring-a-character-lcd shows the typical setup when using the Arduino LiquidCrystal library.

Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

unpacked robinhood posted:

I like the idea of having an SD card in the back instead of removing the uC each year to flash fresh data, but it's really not a huge concern, and functionally makes almost no difference.

My current file is around 1300 lines (approx. a year worth), each line is a day, a different hour and data for the same day occupies a new line.


Are you doing this for a US-based location? Is there a library in this collection: https://github.com/millerlp/Tide_calculator close to your site? If so, those libraries are set to make tide predictions through 2024, by just supplying a date and time.

Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

You can use one of the many ICSP programmers (USBtiny, AVR MKII etc) or another Arduino as the ICSP (search "Arduino as ISP") to set the fuses for using the internal oscillator and to burn the bootloader that will then allow you to upload sketches via a typical FTDI USB-serial adapter.

I regularly build devices using the internal 8MHz oscillator on the ATmega328p, and the main concession is that I use 57600 baud for serial communications instead of the Arduino default 115200, because I'd occasionally get errors at 115200. Besides that I haven't had any issues with my typical set of peripherals like microSD cards, various sensors, real time clocks etc, since those are all running on some slower protocol (I2C, SPI) that can work within the lower overall 8MHz clock speed. But none of my applications require very fast and tight timing.

I generally set up new chips by putting the Optiboot bootloader https://github.com/Optiboot/optiboot on, which has options for setting fuses at 8MHz on the internal oscillator when you burn the bootloader.

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Rat Poisson
Nov 6, 2010

Deadite posted:

So I got the ItsyBitsy board, and I followed the guide on setting up the UI so I can add a sketch to it. The problem is I keep getting an error when I try. The board is being detected and I think I selected the correct board and port but I'm getting the below error:

Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Googling this hasn't been very fruitful

Adafruit's page says there's no Arduino core for the RP2040 ItsyBitsy at the time of launch. Maybe that's still true and you're not going to be able to use the Arduino IDE for the time being?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4888

Edit: I see that their tutorial involves a 3rd party core. You probably need to hit up the Issues page on the Github for that Philhower core and ask there.

Rat Poisson fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Sep 27, 2023

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