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I have a herp (eastern painted turtle) question, but this will be a much more helpful thread. I have two juvenile eastern painted turtles housed individually. During the virus situation they will be moving to their own 17 gallon tubs. Each tub's gonna have an off-the-shelf basking dock, a light, and maybe be roughly 30-50% filled with water. No substrate. It'll be somewhat cozy but more than enough room for each turtle to really stretch out and move around, and way better than the equivalent 20 gal aquarium which is the other option that currently exists. Certainly way better than either of the little bastards deserve  . I'm kidding.My question is about filtration. I'd really rather not do daily water changes so I'm looking at filters that I can get cheap, fast (on chewy.com). In the past I've done those cheap-rear end Whisper immersion filters with some temporary success in bigger tubs, but given the size I'm working with I'd like to maximize swimming space. If cost/flow/floorspace weren't huge concerns I'd do canister filters easy, but seeing as they are--my last option remains the HOB. It feels wasteful, but at $11-15 a pop I think I can try a pair of either Marineland Penguin 100s or 150s and hope they last me a few weeks. I'll still be doing frequent (weekly or twice weekly) water changes and probably partial changes with every feeding. I'm not sure which model I should go with. With turtles the advice on filters is always "err on the side of bigger" and even "best to have twice the filter for the amount of water in the system". At the same time, you don't want to overpower the animal with intake water flow or a massive discharge, especially in a small enclosure where the filter might make an entire area uncomfortable/dangerous for the animal to use. The price difference is <$5 but I want to make sure I maximize cleaning power while keeping physical clutter and mechanical disruption to a minimum. I also wouldn't want the filter to be too weak to handle the task. I'm imagining between 8-14 gallons of water in each enclosure.
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Mar 21, 2020 14:46
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^^^^swung by petsmart and looked at them both in person. Currently erring on the side of the smaller 100 model unless somebody gives me a reason not to. The 150 seems like it would fit but it’s a much wider unit and I’m concerned about it being too much filter for the tub
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Mar 21, 2020 16:41
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Stoca Zola posted:Is feeding in a separate container something you could do? Might help segregate the worst of the mess and help keep their regular housing cleaner. I’ve done it, I’m still gonna need a filter, if only for the sake of flexibility. In the turtles’ ideal world, they’d get fed early in the day—they’d have ample time to graze and munch (maybe twenty min to half an hour) then they might get up and bask for a bit before pooping, or they might poop and then bask. Probably eat some more. Then poop if not done so already. Then maybe some more basking. As long as the turtles are at minimum pooping in their water, it’s gonna foul up in 48 hrs or less and will need changing and/or filtration. I’ve long done the ‘separate feeding container’ thing with them and frankly everybody hates it. I either have to deal with filling/draining/cleaning two buckets or feed them-back-to-back. So then it’s like an hour’s worth of minding them- more if you want them to poop outside of the enclosure. It totally interferes with their desired/biologically optimal feeding-and-basking ways. I’d much rather feed them in their enclosures and come back and strain/scoop out the leftovers and/or do a partial water change. Ends up being kinda the same work but Idk, I’m open to advice.
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Mar 21, 2020 20:55
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BONGHITZ posted:How are the poops? Can you separate it with a filter sock? Somewhat solid-ish and large, unless you or the turtle tear them (they have like a mucus capsule) or the turtle mistakes one for food and then bites it before hilariously spitting it out. They’re carnivore-leaning omnivores so it smells pretty bad and is full of bacteria that make the water nasty quick. I try to scoop em out if I see them
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Mar 22, 2020 02:48
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Resting Lich Face posted:I dunno man. Is that tank strong enough for that water volume? #repurposingamantisshrimpbuild
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Mar 23, 2020 13:36
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Corte posted:- Remove preset heater, room temp is fine - is there a minimum temp to maintain? My building recently was without heat and was dropping below 68 which is when I started using the heater. Goldfish and other similar carp are cold water fish, in some parts of the US keepers of really large, valuable goldfish run chillers to keep their tanks below 70 degrees. I don’t know what the causality is between water temp, animal stress, and lifespan but “water temps too high on average” is one of the reasons that gets commonly cited for why goldfish die on people. Water temps commonly used for basic tropical fish are generally considered to be stressfully warm for goldfish. If your fish is kept indoors and your apartment doesn’t get condemned you probably won’t ever reach a lower bound minimum temp. Keep in mind that in the summer you may actually see temps get too high, and more easily than you think, esp if you get multiple back-to-back days of 90+ degree heat. Aside from chillers, some people keep frozen water bottles on hand to submerge as coolers. You may be forced to run A/C in the room where the tank is kept on some days. But you probably won’t ever make a fish tank too cold for a goldfish unless you bring it outside in winter (and even then, most pond stock overwinter outside)
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Apr 2, 2020 03:08
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Corte posted:I unplugged the heater and the tank is down to 74 degrees, left the heater in as I figured it couldn't hurt to have a little more surface area for bacteria. Don’t do that. I’ve broken every aquarium immersion heater I’ve ever owned. It’s glass and electronics and just asking to end up in pieces. If you want surface area for beneficial bacteria get some actual tank decor. And not even tons because fancy tailed goldfish can tear their fins. Wrt plants it’s gonna be very hard to cultivate a plant that your fish would appreciably eat a lot of that also would grow faster than the fish would be able to consume it. You’d need a lot of existing stock and a much bigger tank to hold it all. At a certain fish to plant ratio it’s like trying to grow a couple of large potted plants with the intent of sustaining an adult sheep. Goldfish are big eaters. People use them to give pedicures and poo poo.
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Apr 2, 2020 23:57
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Corte posted:Semen What kind of lamp do you have? Is it LED? cfl? It was me that asked about temps. I meant 90+ ambient air temp (like in early August in MA). If your tank is 90+ degrees pretty much everything and anything that you put in there is dying. 79F seems hot to me. Last I heard goldfish wanted temps in the low 70s-60s. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 4, 2020 |
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Apr 4, 2020 21:05
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DeadlyMuffin posted:
Is it weird that I wanna put glofish in something like that?
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Apr 17, 2020 18:46
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Corte posted:Ahhh, I think this is a distinction I hadn't caught before. So when I'm changing the water I'm also gravel vac'ing I think. What am I doing is running the siphon along the bottom, shaking up the substrate and trying to grab whatever comes loose. The pebbles sometimes will come a little up into the siphon tube but not much, I'm not sure if this is because the suction isn't powerful enough or the pebbles are too big. I only mention this because I've noticed in videos the gravel getting sucked up a lot further into the tube but that is with smaller stones. Could be I've been sucking up that beneficial bacteria I'm supposed to be cultivating! I mean, if your goal is to have clean gravel you’ll need to gravel vac. The trick is to cultivate beneficial bacteria in places where you won’t mind them getting to biofilm levels of population density, and where they won’t get bothered by you keeping a clean tank (and also where the population stability itself will keep outbreaks from showing up elsewhere). In an aquarium that is done by giving them lots of surface area and space to live in- inside of a filter, on a bio-wheel, in the crevices of bio balls or gravel, inside of a secondary tank/refugium, etc. Goldfish are particularly heavy waste generators and require a particularly strong filtration/beneficial bacteria counterpoint to keep water balanced and tanks looking spotless. If you go into big goldfish sites (there are goldfish-specific forums, btw. You should visit them) you’ll notice that people with big tanks are generally using big canister filters or sump/refugium builds as though they were running reef setups. They’re providing a home for all that bacteria. Hell, even something like a diy box filter or just running your water line through a sealed container filled with media would add a ton of biological filtration potential. If you’re feeling like a tinkerer and you’re working from home, you could try building a second tank into something like a sump. Better yet, try building a planted refugium. Maybe put some shrimp or like a crayfish or freshwater crab in there too......omg now I wanna live vicariously through you and loop a fish+deep gravel planted crayfish tank together.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:25
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Semi-edit: you could also build a nitrate filter by filling a container with fast growing algae/plants and hitting it with a light/sun. There’s a lot of ways to harvest the power of photosynthesis for your fishy needs Edit to the semi edit- you could also try sticking something like a pothos in your HOB filter (some ppl add them just for this) or tank. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 23:46
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Corte posted:To clarify the pebbles looks pretty good and are relatively clean when I vacuum it each week, I just thought I should be thorough and get every last bit I could. I'm wondering if maybe I should be leaving it longer to allow more bacteria to grow. I feel pretty good about where I'm at with the tank: https://imgur.com/gkW57Y4 You beat me as I was editing my last post. I would definitely try adding plants next. Pothos is a good choice, you can add it right in the enclosure or stick it in the filter if there’s space. If you’re gonna buy a bigger tank and turn your 10 gal into a quarantine tank, I’d rather just turn it into a planted refugium.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:57
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Hey y’all. Just added live sand and seeded water from another tank to a 10gal Super Budget bedroom build I decided to make on Friday with some spare supplies that didn’t make it into my eastern painted turtle quarantine foster The plan is to use it as a frag tank. The filters I had on hand are Penguin 100 biowheel dealies with kinda low flow (shouldn’t be a problem once I add the Koralia that’s currently in my Amazon cart). They’re on the smaller side compared to some other HoBs that people like to use for this, but I easily hacked one of them by replacing the insert and biowheel (it didn’t fit) with some filter sponge, a bag of biomax pellets, and a bag of ACO for water polishing. No space for a Chaeto fuge but I’m not planning to keep anything harder than some very inexpensive montipora down the road. I’m actually really happy with how it turned out. Super super easy and cheap, and it does all the necessary sump things. Could (maybe should?) probably run it as a bare-bottom tank but I was feeling impatient about cycling and I had access to some good, safe biological material in need of a home (invert lab, including some coral people). Ultimately water changes are gonna be the most important thing with a 10gal no matter how fancy your DIY hob sump is. Anyway I’m hyper pumped! As I was telling Weedthread (lol) I have years of lapsed experience in the aquarium hobby going back to childhood and literally years of recently involving myself in the reef hobby and living vicariously through other keepers. I attend talks about coral biology in my day job/school life, ffs. With the public health/economic crisis one might think that this would be a bad time to jump in, but if I’m going to be stuck at home in the short-to-medium term, intermittently or not working in the longer term, and the economy is in the process of making GBS threads its pants on a never-before-seen scale, then at least I’m gonna take the shot to try this hobby, or at least get the setup to do it later if poo poo gets harder to buy. I still have another filter left. Depending on where I/we are there might be a planted freshwater build (or maybe a second frag tank?) in the future. Who knows. I’m limiting myself to what I can get online or through stuff like curbside pickup.
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Apr 27, 2020 08:34
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How careful should I be about spraying perfume/applying cologne in the room that the 10gal reef is in, or using mild room scents (essential oils, maybe a candle once in a blue moon)? Right now my hunch is “very careful, do all that poo poo outside while the reef’s in there”. Strangely the advice on cologne is actually pretty mixed, with some people saying it has no effect unless you’ve literally dunked a cologne-covered arm into the tank/dropped a bottle into it.
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Apr 27, 2020 22:53
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Aerofallosov posted:Apparently firefox with addons disabled opened it just fine for me. That’ll happen with certain websites that use pop-ups. For a while a few years back the MA health connector payment site was doing that on any browser that wasn’t IE or Chrome.
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Apr 27, 2020 22:57
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Aerofallosov posted:What sort of cute, chill top and middle layers would go well with 3 dwarf gobies and about 6-7 cories in a 20 gallon? CPD don't like strong currents. Neon tetras and pals sound tempting. Or the emerald rasboras... gloooooofiiiiiiiish
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Apr 29, 2020 00:10
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Aerofallosov posted:Oh right! Those guys are pretty rad. Hmm. They even had electric green bettas when I went to petsmart for filter media. I know, I’ve seen them and I want one, despite the fact that it means going through Petco/Petsmart (I already pricematch a ton of basic supplies through Petco and Chewy/Petsmart, and if you don’t you’re way richer than I am—but I generally don’t buy livestock or feeders from them EXCEPT SEACREST HAS SOME KINDA EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTION DEAL WITH THEM). If I stick around this apartment long enough to do a second, planted tank maybe I go with one + neon danios (or glo danios in a different color) or whatever. They have females and multiple male morphs so you could maybe try breeding them (for your own personal gratification, as they are patented and Seacrest Farms will slap you with a lawsuit if you sell or distribute them). GFP expression is heritable, and I believe Mendelian, so you could do some potentially interesting poo poo with outcrossing. ....and now I’ve looked into the weird world of people making glo danio and tetra outcrosses and I like what I’m seeing....
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Apr 29, 2020 00:58
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DeadlyMuffin posted:I don't like the idea of breeding something I can't even give away. I wonder how much of a legal leg they have to stand on. Probably not much. I assume they mean in a hypothetical “giving away hundreds of fry online” sense and not in a “rehoming some ‘accidental’ babies with a friend” sense. They’d have to be pretty lovely to waste money going to court over an individual breeder who wasn’t trying to, like, operate an Etsy business or pet store. I googled things like “glofish danio hybrid” (even tho they aren’t really hybrids, since both parents are still fully zebra danios) or “glofish breeding cross” and found links to various aquarium forums and such. Bunch of people crossing glo danios w/ wild type (hobby type? I’m not sure the commercially available lines could reasonably be considered WT anymore, tho I guess they are in research settings) and getting nice striping and partial expression patterns. One video on YouTube of some tetra fry expressing pink fluorescence that supposedly came from a single pink glo-tetra housed in a school of regular fish. Cowslips Warren posted:How pricey are the bettas? I don't need any but goddamnit I want one or six. Females + “standard” males (shortfin? Idk betta morph names except that there’s a bunch) are $20 “Fancy” (longfin of some variety) males are $30. So like regular betta pricing, more or less. Whats interesting is that these guys still express little pops of red and blue in their fins and such, which I assume is an “original” or inherited color that they’re showing. It’d be interesting to see how that and the gfp expression mix in when breeding glo x glo or glo x something else. I wonder if you can get it to express in a mottled or chimeric pattern à la koi coloration. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 06:27
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Yeah stock tanks are pretty much the gold standard in aquatic turtle enclosures if you can’t get a Waterland tub.
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May 2, 2020 00:23
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Corte posted:This is my first time resealing a used tank, I don't think I have the tools or skills to take it all apart and redo the gasket. The tank was free so I'm only out my time and materials at least. It seems to be holding water well over night fwiw. From what I've read a leak should show within 24-48hrs but I guess that doesn't mean the gasket won't fail at some point. I don’t like it. That’s one of those “everything is hunky dory until you hear a loud tearing sound and a pop one day, and suddenly your aquarium literally explodes” situations waiting to happen. If you’re only gonna be out the hypothetical cost of a tank (remember that petco does $1/gallon sales like constantly) you could always turn this one into a terrarium for some other inhabitant (you’re a goon, I’m sure you have one, or one in mind). Yes, you save some money in the short term. But it only takes one gasket failing after you’ve moved, placed, and filled your tank with 20gal of water and livestock to really bring the pain and costs.
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May 3, 2020 00:29
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Stoca Zola posted:You could try your hand at doing a terrarium or similar, those joints would probably be fine without a full load of water on them. There's still a lot you can do with a glass box even if you don't fill it with water. Tropical plants love being in a humid environment vs a dry American/European house if you/your gf want to try planted tanks/etc. And lots of terrestrial animals (geckos, dart frogs, tree frogs, etc) that would happily live there- esp if the tank is bioactive. Alternatively, 30 gal provides a nice big size for herps like bearded dragons/skinks/ackies/juvenile tegus/etc.
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May 3, 2020 12:15
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Cowslips Warren posted:For them to grow out in maybe! Even a 40 breeder is the min for a beardie. Yeah you’re totally right. Bit of morning brain there.
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May 3, 2020 16:41
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Not just the moss, but all the fat and sassy tardigrades living in it too!
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May 5, 2020 11:50
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Hoods are bullshit and lights have been rimless compatible for years. My no-name $30 reef/plant/‘it’s plenty for a 10gal and possibly stressing out my Cyphastrea’ light sure is! If you have jumpers you can easily make a lightweight lid out of a number of materials or get one assuming the top is rectangular. That tank is tacky as poo poo and if all the seams look good I think you should jump on it like some prime booty post build pics
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May 5, 2020 18:00
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stevobob posted:I don't have any pics but last night just before I went to bed I found a leak in my betta's tank so now he lives in a bucket with some stuff from his tank and if he survives this I will be amazed. Get an airline running in the bucket and he should be solid. Maybe an auto heater if you think he needs it. What’s your situation with the old tank? Is it an all-in-one or a basic black rimmed Petco special? Getting a replacement shouldn’t be tough, and there’s options for each budget. With price matching from chewy or amazon and curbside pickup you can have a replacement tank plus hob/under gravel/sponge filter today for ~$20 if there’s a Petco in your area. I don’t buy animals from them and I don’t condone loitering in stores during covid19 with or without a mask, but I’m not gonna deny that being able to rush in at opening time when nobody’s around and grab supplies, price match them to something I can actually afford, and dash home has saved my rear end a bunch recently. Like, when you gotta replace a tank (or a heater...or you need an emergency box of saltwater, which honestly ain’t bad when it’s about a buck a gallon and you’re dealing with a 10gal) you gotta replace a tank! trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 14:10 on May 8, 2020 |
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May 8, 2020 14:04
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2.5 gal is unacceptably small for a betta, dude. Doesn’t matter what the boxes say. 5 gal minimum for one male or maybe a sorority of 2 females, maybe 3 but that’s really pushing it. 10 gal means you can do some really elaborate planted setups and sororities are no sweat. Petco/petsmart will do you a 5 gal or 10 gal for 15 bucks, I wouldn’t bother with a lid. If he’s a jumper, you can make a better cheaper lid out of eggcrate. You’ll need a small heater (an automatic one set to 78 degrees is fine) and a filter- these are pricey if you pay MSRP. Like really pricey, 2-4x what you pay online. Find your model of filter and media and heater, and really anything else you need. Need rocks? Just google that poo poo on to your phone. Be shameless. Petco’s website is routinely half the price of their store, and they match Amazon, chewy/petsmart, etc. If you’re using material from the old tank, water from the old tank, etc, I wouldn’t worry a ton about waiting to cycle before getting him out of the bucket and into the new tank. Bottled bacteria/“turbo cycle” products are also actually really good now, so you could toss a bottle of that in (price match it, natch), let the filter run for a bit and then pop him in. Ultimately the least stressful thing is to get him situated in a stable home as quickly and seamlessly as you can. But also bettas are hardy as gently caress. There’s a reason they survive those lovely cups. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 15:34 on May 8, 2020 |
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May 8, 2020 15:31
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Addendum- I notice you said Air pump a bunch. I’d encourage you to get an actual filter of some sort if you’re going up to 5-10 gal. I got the one that’s currently on my reef tank (originally for a totally different project) for like $12. They’re basically commodity items.
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May 8, 2020 15:37
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Hygger makes a really good light for like $25. There’s a jillion good Chinese aquarium lights with timers and different color temp settings and dimmers and epoxy-sealed seams and poo poo on Amazon/etc. It’ll look way better and save you some pain.
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May 8, 2020 20:50
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Corte posted:I have this light coming for my 19" deep 29g tank: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FMFPGPZ/?ref=exp_jcpaquarium_dp_vv_d. I've had the tank cycling for a few days and it'll be a week or so before the light gets here. Looking into plant and livestock options, from what I've read so far these are the best options for my fantail goldfish: Sure. Can you refresh my memory on my comment? I’m not sure if I meant refugium as an addendum to/filter for a display tank or a simple planted tank or what.
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May 12, 2020 18:51
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Krispy Wafer posted:I cannot get my nitrates down. They've been consistently in the 'stress' level during testing. Ammonia and nitrites are zero. Nitrates are the only problem. Yup! I’m doing it with Phosguard on my nano reef.
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May 13, 2020 14:58
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Krispy Wafer posted:Tons. It's a very well planted 36g. I've never had a lick of ammonia, even while cycling. If everybody looks good maybe don’t worry about it so much. But your water change regimen is poor from a chemistry best practices standpoint. You’re adding unconditioned water to an aquarium that’s 60% filled and then adding the requisite amount of water treatment chemicals after the fact. You need to treat the new water first before you mix it with pretreated water, otherwise you’re diluting the mixture and preventing all of the new water from being properly treated before it enters the aquarium. That stresses the livestock and leaves trace unwanted compounds behind.
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May 13, 2020 15:05
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Krispy Wafer posted:I thought so too. I was watching the YouTube video showing how to use the Python system and kept waiting for them to pull out their big jugs of pre-treated water and then they just changed the direction of the water flow from the sink and it was like, 'OMG!' But apparently it works as long as you treat the water afterwards. Maybe not for nitrates since I'm having issues with those, but otherwise it hasn't been a problem. I did learn you need to make sure the new water is the same temp as the old water, but honestly that should have been obvious. Are you sure they aren’t using water from a RO system or a cistern or storage tank of some sort? Also worth noting that some places—particularly some commercial/home producers get their water from a well or collection system. Tidal Gardens does that.
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May 13, 2020 15:20
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Rule #1 of aquariums- stop loving with it. Is it dying? You’re probably loving with it too much.
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May 13, 2020 15:28
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Enos Cabell posted:This is a terrible idea for many reasons, but I kinda want to make my own hamster Sealab now. holy poo poo
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May 14, 2020 17:57
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“No gods or kings only hamster”
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May 14, 2020 17:58
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Scientist Al Gore posted:I forgot about these sites. JBJ and Red Sea have some cool kits but why don't they make them for freshwater too? They do? Just use them for freshwater. Nobody says you can’t use a sump or false back for freshwater. Maybe it’s considered “overkill” but if you don’t want the aesthetic of a big HoB filter or the pain of disassembling a canister sumps are the way to go.
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May 16, 2020 13:36
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Scientist Al Gore posted:As a follow up, has anyone just designed their own filter? Given that 3D Printing is now widely available I think it could be done. I'd just print a large plastic piece(s) and glue it to the back or corner of the tank. Seems like way more trouble than it’s worth unless you want to custom fabricate something disguised or seamless for a bespoke build. Otherwise there’s tons of off-the shelf options meant to be expanded, customized, and upgraded. Hell, past a certain point you can get drink or water bottles up to 2-liter size and make multiple kinds of very performant filters out of them. I recently got a pack of 1.5 L bottles of RODI water from Costco for my 10gal reef (normally I go much bigger containers, but I wanted to try these at $5/case) and eyeing the empties like “I could do so much cool poo poo with these they’re such a good size”
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May 22, 2020 22:43
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Phi230 posted:How do you guys successfully combat algae long term? Water changes, lighting type/time/intensity changes, nutrient changes, maybe add some algae eaters. I just started using phosguard on my reef/frag tank and am liking the results so far but IDK if it’s incompatible with a planted tank. Seems like it might be, if the goal is to strip out the water phosphates.
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May 22, 2020 23:09
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Scientist Al Gore posted:If I sent you dimensions could you do it? The ones on the market already largely do this. HOB or internal. For the cost, if you don’t already have the tank, you’re way better off just finding a tank with a built in sump back. There’s tons out there. Once you start spending what would probably approach $100 or more on this filter project it’s far and away the better option. A false back/built in sump is the best version of what you’re describing, gives you the most space for equipment and filling it with media.
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May 22, 2020 23:32
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 13:42 |
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Scientist Al Gore posted:How much does it cost to 3D Print something with epoxy? Filter media isn't even $5. What kind of tank do you have? How big is it? Where do you live? I can roll HoB filters for <$20 all day in my neck of the woods, for all that they’re ugly. But that’s where I live. Canisters and sumps are a slightly different matter but can also be had cheap or built. I still think your best bet is a tank with a false back sump made out of an acrylic or glass plate. Those are not expensive to buy or even fabricate if you have access to opaque acrylic and the tools to cut and put holes in it.
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May 23, 2020 00:22
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