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bred
Oct 24, 2008

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I'm thinking about building a soundproof (-dampening) enclosure for my Taig.

I built a sound enclosure at work out of 1.5" extrusion and double paned 1/4" polycarb paneling. We were peaking at 85db before and got down to 75db after. Still noisy but direction was to get under 80db so we could have longer shifts in production.

We use TSLOTS brand extrusion and I had panels on both the inside and outside faces. I also had aluminum angle extrusion overlapping the gaps around the access doors to block the sound paths. For our laser enclosures we think "tortured path" just like your water analogy.

For home I'd use maybe 1/2" MDF over a lumber frame to make a 5 sided box and some locating features to help guide it on and off. Might be tricky dealing with chips but some planning can minimize the mess. Maybe the guide features can act as a catch tray or something.

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bred
Oct 24, 2008

cakesmith handyman posted:

If you stuffed rock wool between those double walls would you see a significant improvement do you reckon?

Yes, if we didn't hit the sound goal with the double wall we were going to stuff some insulation in there. We didn't do it in the first place because it is a cleanroom and non particulating insulation is costly and it would impede the view of the machinery which needs periodic operator interaction.

I only took one acoustics class in school but the math is very similar to heat transfer through walls or electricity through resistors so in my case the sound excites the polycarb, then the polycarbonate excites the air gap, and the air gap excites the outer polycarbonate and that excites the room air. Each interface costs more energy.

The frame is the easiest path for the sound because it is just a piece of aluminum. I'm recommending soft lumber wood because it doesn't transmit vibration like metal will. Sound control is a huge science and you can spend a lot of time thinking about it. I recommend doing something cheap and fast to minimize your investment and start testing.

bred
Oct 24, 2008

mekilljoydammit posted:

... 4x8 sheets of foam.

I haven't used this but I think you can work off this setup
http://www.maslowcnc.com

bred
Oct 24, 2008
You can put together an email with your BOM, quantites, and CAD and send it to a place like protolabs to get a quote within a week or so. That would give you a dollar amount to estimate an ROI of tooling up your own shop and becoming a manufacturer for this project. They'll give you a price to deliver the material in the shape you want so you'll have to account for secondary ops like polishing, coating, fitting, etc. A lesson we learned is to call out a lot of "good sides" in the part drawing because they are very creative about where they leave tool marks.

Also, from the image you posted I think my favorite machine is a good choice for those parts: https://youtu.be/HBa1wDv-6bU

bred fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 9, 2019

bred
Oct 24, 2008
For the 2D alignment, you can measure the X across the rectangle. Check member straightness with a straight edge.

For the height, you can use a dial indicator. A low tech way they use to flatten frames is pulling two strings across the X and seeing how they lay. Imagine doing a simple cats cradle with your hands to get an idea.

bred
Oct 24, 2008
Also, if your rails need strict aligning beyond tramming, your system is probably over constrained.

bred
Oct 24, 2008
SendCutSend has auto quoting online if you upload your drawing. 6x custom 12x12in .5" plywood is ~$210.

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bred
Oct 24, 2008
lol we were stuck on 2019 for years while we waited for them to figure out something in the machine shop. We're barely on 2021 now.

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