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I'm definitely going to update my component "to buy" list from the last time I was going to buy a new computer and then simply didn't (2020). This morning it booted up totally fine, no weird auto-reboots. And quicker than the previous drive - so I was imagining that one, at least. Hopefully it holds, but my hand will be forced anyway when Win10 stops getting updates next year since this computer's too old to upgrade to 11.
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# ? May 1, 2024 05:39 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 23:01 |
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Sway Grunt posted:I'm definitely going to update my component "to buy" list from the last time I was going to buy a new computer and then simply didn't (2020). This morning it booted up totally fine, no weird auto-reboots. And quicker than the previous drive - so I was imagining that one, at least. Hopefully it holds, but my hand will be forced anyway when Win10 stops getting updates next year since this computer's too old to upgrade to 11. Yeah, it's possible to load 11 on older machines with some registry tweaks but it's not going to be recommended since it's an unsupported configuration and it may at any time stop getting updates, which is what will happen to 10. Putting some cash away every month for a while can help if you're planning an upgrade soon and the prices all seem out of reach ($100 a month, maybe?)
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# ? May 1, 2024 07:02 |
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Yeah, I'll start budgeting for it. Money is indeed the reason why I've dallied so long in upgrading my computer but tbh I can afford it even if it's a little uncomfortable. Doable, though, and worth it. The good thing is this current system is so old even a budget modern build will be an enormous upgrade. I mean I'm running an i5-750 at the moment. 😬 Props to SH/SC cause the core components in my build were the recommended price/performance sweet spot here back in 2009 and they have lasted a long time and served me well.
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# ? May 1, 2024 09:35 |
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Safe to say the 24" monitor I bought in 2013 that is throwing up a "No Signal" message despite switching cables (and also using a DisplayPort cable from my other screen that worked) means it has thoroughly poo poo the bed and has embraced the long sleep? Not too fussed honestly, I didn't even realise I'd had it 11 years. Pretty good run for it's money.
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# ? May 2, 2024 16:29 |
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Qubee posted:Safe to say the 24" monitor I bought in 2013 that is throwing up a "No Signal" message despite switching cables (and also using a DisplayPort cable from my other screen that worked) means it has thoroughly poo poo the bed and has embraced the long sleep? Gonna go with yes it’s dead Jim.
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# ? May 2, 2024 16:33 |
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What's the difference between a 60w USB-C to USB-C cable, and one of the same wattage but labeled Thunderbolt 3?
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# ? May 11, 2024 16:45 |
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:What's the difference between a 60w USB-C to USB-C cable, and one of the same wattage but labeled Thunderbolt 3? The thunderbolt cable can do data transfer as well as power. The other one won’t (or shouldn’t but usb c is a mess)
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# ? May 11, 2024 17:10 |
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a cheap cable will do data but only to the bare minimum extent, meaning USB2 speeds USB3 and thunderbolt have much stricter requirements
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# ? May 11, 2024 18:21 |
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The one you linked tells you it's USB2 if you look closely at the description: "support 480Mbps high speed data sync" Most cables which can go faster than USB2 will tell you exactly how much. USB 3.x (5/10/20G) Type-C cables can sometimes carry a DisplayPort signal as well, but not Thunderbolt. USB 4.0 cables (40+G) on the other hand often are able to do Thunderbolt (making them "universal", so to speak). I've tried several USB4 models with my Thinkpad dock and all seem to be able to handle TB3 at least, but it's best to check the description to be sure. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 20:16 on May 11, 2024 |
# ? May 11, 2024 20:12 |
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Thanks, that's exactly my situation - I have a ThinkPad dock that is missing its cable. New ones are $40+ from Lenovo and even more on Amazon. I initially ordered the linked cable and wondered why it didn't do anything. Googled and found it needs to be a TB3 cable. I've since ordered a 100w TB4 cable, waiting for it to arrive.
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# ? May 11, 2024 20:26 |
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What might cause a display to have issues displaying specifically red pixels? One of my monitors seems to be displaying red things... weirdly. Like, not missing pixels, but it looks extremely aliased. I had to take these pics with my phone as taking a screenshot appears to not work - the image looks bad on the monitor in question, and good on another monitor, even as a screenshot. Bad monitor: Good monitor: Look at the edges of the Firefox logo in these ones: Bad monitor: Good monitor: The weird thing is, it appears to only be affecting UI elements (text, icons, etc), as the wallpaper on the monitor in question has orange/red parts that don't appear distorted. But it's not confined to Windows UI (Taskbar), as the red text in the first two pictures is from a website using Firefox. Any ideas?
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# ? May 12, 2024 03:18 |
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Annath posted:What might cause a display to have issues displaying specifically red pixels? Different subpixel layouts, run the ClearType tuner for each screen. (Just click start and then type in cleartype, it should bring up the "Adjust ClearType Text" control panel option which is a guided wizard that you have to run on each screen.) Indiana_Krom fucked around with this message at 12:25 on May 12, 2024 |
# ? May 12, 2024 12:22 |
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cleartype being configured wrong wouldn't make the firefox logo look messed up might be chroma subsampling?
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# ? May 12, 2024 12:40 |
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repiv posted:cleartype being configured wrong wouldn't make the firefox logo look messed up Ah, chroma subsampling would definitely do that as well, good catch.
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# ? May 12, 2024 12:49 |
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Would either of those issues be something that just randomly appears? Because this is a new development
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# ? May 12, 2024 13:16 |
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maybe if the cable is going bad, have you tried a different one?
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# ? May 12, 2024 13:19 |
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repiv posted:maybe if the cable is going bad, have you tried a different one? I have not. Because the power went out last night, and I just turned on my PC, and the issue appears to have disappeared with a, uh, reboot? Weird, because I hadn't installed any new drivers/software. Oh well, bytes be weird sometimes.
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# ? May 12, 2024 13:38 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:Different subpixel layouts, run the ClearType tuner for each screen. (Just click start and then type in cleartype, it should bring up the "Adjust ClearType Text" control panel option which is a guided wizard that you have to run on each screen.) Can't see the subpixels in those shots, but if you zoom in you can just barely see that on both monitors, blue pixels are slightly offset to the right of green, and green is slightly offset to the right of red, so they should both be standard RGB stripe monitors. Annath posted:I have not. Just to be sure, if it happens again try checking if there's chroma subsampling happening. In the Nvidia drivers, this setting is in the resolution settings, not sure about AMD.
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# ? May 12, 2024 18:55 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Can't see the subpixels in those shots, but if you zoom in you can just barely see that on both monitors, blue pixels are slightly offset to the right of green, and green is slightly offset to the right of red, so they should both be standard RGB stripe monitors. I'll keep that in mind; I have a 3080.
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# ? May 12, 2024 19:46 |
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I'm getting a new battery for my UPS. How bad of an idea is it to get two and attach them in parallel?
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# ? May 16, 2024 18:40 |
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I don't know exactly how bad it would be, but I would definitely not do that if it was in my home. Why would you do it?
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# ? May 16, 2024 21:54 |
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eszett engma posted:I'm getting a new battery for my UPS. How bad of an idea is it to get two and attach them in parallel? What you have to ask yourself is Do you actually need the additional time that would give you? What do you think an UPS is for?
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# ? May 16, 2024 22:00 |
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eszett engma posted:I'm getting a new battery for my UPS. How bad of an idea is it to get two and attach them in parallel? It's usually better to get a larger UPS that has two batteries. Generally the 1000+ VA ones are like that. I've seen some folks try adding deep cycle marine batteries or car batteries to an UPS instead of the normal sealed lead acid as projects on youtube but they often need to upgrade the power components in the UPS to deal with charging a larger battery. It's not a great idea if the UPS wasn't made for it but if you're good with electronics you can rebuild it, just remember you're playing with mains voltage so if you screw up it's dangerous to you or the stuff you're trying to protect with the UPS. Some APC models have a plug for an additional battery unit, so there's that if you need more runtime than a 1500VA UPS will provide. There's also those portable lithium based packs like ecoflow or jackery or whatever if you want to run stuff for a long time. They're not really meant to serve as an UPS but I figured I'd toss it out there if you want runtime.
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# ? May 17, 2024 00:55 |
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Is there software to check the health of my WD Blue NVme? My wife's computer is flaking really hard on an update, and I'm going to reformat (Bootloader is on the wrong drive, etc). However it's been showing other odd signs of issues, and I want to make sure that the drive is good or if I need to replace it. I went to WD's site, and all I could find was software for external drives. I know Samsung has its Magician software, and I thought WD did as well, but I can't find it anymore.
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# ? May 17, 2024 11:48 |
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is there software to check the health of my WD Blue NVme? My wife's computer is flaking really hard on an update, and I'm going to reformat (Bootloader is on the wrong drive, etc). However it's been showing other odd signs of issues, and I want to make sure that the drive is good or if I need to replace it. I went to WD's site, and all I could find was software for external drives. I know Samsung has its Magician software, and I thought WD did as well, but I can't find it anymore. Digital Dashboard is their utility for such things: https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/31759/~/download%2C-install%2C-test-drive-and-update-firmware-using-western-digital
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# ? May 17, 2024 12:25 |
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nitsuga posted:Digital Dashboard is their utility for such things: https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/31759/~/download%2C-install%2C-test-drive-and-update-firmware-using-western-digital I completely glossed over that. Thank you.
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# ? May 17, 2024 12:30 |
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If I'm trying to work with a server that is going to get deployed to a DC-only datacenter and has these as its power supplies: Can I get a recommendation for a DC power supply I can use for my configuration environment that just has normal NEMA 5-15 outlets? I don't even know what the picture's connector standard is called. It's also not actually going to pull 1100W, this i just the pic I found. edit: clarify I want a bench-top AC -> DC converter so that I can use it with the pictured type still intact. Hed fucked around with this message at 23:03 on May 20, 2024 |
# ? May 20, 2024 22:54 |
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I'm not a server hardware guy, but could you just use an AC-source power supply for the configuration and swap it out when you're done?
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# ? May 22, 2024 15:07 |
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Helter Skelter posted:I'm not a server hardware guy, but could you just use an AC-source power supply for the configuration and swap it out when you're done? Yeah, this has to be the easiest and most reliable way to do it
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# ? May 22, 2024 21:30 |
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Helter Skelter posted:I'm not a server hardware guy, but could you just use an AC-source power supply for the configuration and swap it out when you're done? That would be my recommendation. A powerful bench-top converter must be many times more expensive than a throwaway PSU. Of course you can't then test the finalized setup, but maybe that is small enough risk. And that DC PSU probably has some firmware that should be updated, but maybe leave that for the next round of updates within the DC.
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# ? May 22, 2024 21:36 |
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Saukkis posted:That would be my recommendation. A powerful bench-top converter must be many times more expensive than a throwaway PSU. Of course you can't then test the finalized setup, but maybe that is small enough risk. And that DC PSU probably has some firmware that should be updated, but maybe leave that for the next round of updates within the DC. Yeah I was trying to test the final integration, but I guess since they're redundant I can eventually test... not ideal but it's better than nothing. Maybe when it shows up I'll be able to research better.
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# ? May 23, 2024 03:07 |
For a while I had a little laptop board running as a tiny home server. I want to set it up again mounted on the wall or something but having trouble finding the right standoff and screw combination. Being a laptop board the mount holes are tinier than usual I guess? What size am I looking for or can I expand these holes with careful drilling?
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# ? May 26, 2024 15:14 |
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Chunjee posted:For a while I had a little laptop board running as a tiny home server. I want to set it up again mounted on the wall or something but having trouble finding the right standoff and screw combination. Being a laptop board the mount holes are tinier than usual I guess? I'd measure them and then look up what size screws to buy. m2 isn't uncommon for laptops but sometimes they use smaller. That's pretty small so m3 might be better if it'd fit. It's not impossible to make the holes bigger but it will depend a lot on what traces on the board are near it. In general the holes on a normal motherboard just have some grounding on the top and bottom and they don't usually route right by mounting holes so it's not a huge deal, but cutting into a laptop board could be trickier. If you damage the board you can cause some of the layers of copper inside of the pcb to touch and short out if you're not super careful. Most motherboards are multi-layer now so it's a sandwich and cutting into it could cause the like, lettuce to touch the cheese instead of the meat, or whatever sandwich metaphor makes sense.
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# ? May 26, 2024 15:35 |
I don't have a digital caliper or way to measure something this small. But love the sandwich metaphor
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# ? May 26, 2024 18:57 |
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Just built a Fractal Terra build with a 7800X3D with a Noctua NH-L9A-AM5 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler. Performance is above average and everything seems normal. I was tuning in the fans and found that the CPU throttles at 75c. It drops to 500mhz and of course the experience is awful. I can hold the temperature below 75c and do fine, but if I try to adjust so it gets a little hotter (and quieter) it hits a wall at 75. I've never seen this behavior before. Is there a setting I don't know about? Motherboard is an AsRock A620I Lightning WiFi. Thanks!
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# ? May 26, 2024 21:53 |
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Chunjee posted:I don't have a digital caliper or way to measure something this small. But love the sandwich metaphor 3mm would be just shy of 1/8" if you have a ruler handy. I think this is what you're looking for. https://a.co/d/ex2SnOy
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# ? May 26, 2024 23:03 |
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LRADIKAL posted:Just built a Fractal Terra build with a 7800X3D with a Noctua NH-L9A-AM5 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler. Performance is above average and everything seems normal. I was tuning in the fans and found that the CPU throttles at 75c. It drops to 500mhz and of course the experience is awful. I can hold the temperature below 75c and do fine, but if I try to adjust so it gets a little hotter (and quieter) it hits a wall at 75. Is there a big fan noise difference at 70 and 75 C?
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# ? May 26, 2024 23:06 |
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mycomancy posted:Is there a big fan noise difference at 70 and 75 C? I'm at 100 percent fan speed doing Prime95 but the clocks are ok, so it's not throttling much. In 3DMark it barely touches 75 and is performing on the high side of the bell curve, so it's not a total deal breaker. However, this is for someone else and I want to figure this out. I assume your question is "how much quieter do you want it?" To answer your question directly, no. The fans are at 100 percent with the CPU throttling at 75.6 C.
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# ? May 26, 2024 23:17 |
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LRADIKAL posted:I'm at 100 percent fan speed doing Prime95 but the clocks are ok, so it's not throttling much. In 3DMark it barely touches 75 and is performing on the high side of the bell curve, so it's not a total deal breaker. However, this is for someone else and I want to figure this out. Ah I see, I misunderstood. Apologies!
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# ? May 27, 2024 00:24 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 23:01 |
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I'm moving to Latin America from the US in about a month and I'm trying to plan how to transport some hardware via checked baggage because shipping anything less than a shipping container is prohibitively expensive. Most stuff should be easy but I have two questions: I have some HDDs I use for Linux iso storage in an external drive bay. Can I just wrap the whole thing in bubble wrap? Or do I absolutely need to individually wrap each drive? My PC. The case isn't huge - it's midATX - but it's heavy and would take up a lot of room in a suitcase or box. Would it be prudent to disassemble it and transfer the individual components in the boxes they came in? I still have my video card and motherboard boxes for instance. I figure the CPU fan, power supply, and RAM can be bubble wrapped and tossed in. Then I'd just buy a case there. The other option would be to pull out the video card and try to fit the case into a suitcase. The latter seems easiest and maybe safest (?) but I'm trying to maximize space when I gotta fit the rest of my life into 100 allowable pounds.
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# ? May 27, 2024 00:25 |