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cruft posted:I've got a 2017 Nissan that plays MP3 files in the order they were written to the subdirectory. It sorts directory names, but not files. I don't understand how this made it into production. quote:In any case, I'm curious if any of you nerds have written something like a shell or Python script that will: HenryJLittlefinger posted:As far as I can tell, the electronic brakes on the camper will only work if there's a controller in line, as it tows perfectly fine without one. I don't like the idea of a Bluetooth version anyway, so I'll probably get a wired one installed in the truck pretty soon. But I'm wondering if there's a simple fix here so I can use the trailer brakes on an upcoming trip with this thing. That said, if it's constantly slightly activating it sounds like it's not calibrated correctly. Is it possible that the initial calibration was done either while facing slightly uphill or with more load in the bed/on the tongue which is causing the controller's sensors to see level operation as a slight forward G-force?
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May 2, 2024 19:32
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Body-ish work question: I have a 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring. The (factory? dealer?) installed rear spoiler is coming loose at the ends. It's held on with a combination of double stick tape and 4 fasteners along the length, but the last 8" or so are just tape. I guess a fastener at the far end was too much to ask! It does make a slight amount of noise/vibration on the freeway, not so much at low speeds, but I know it's just going to get worse over time. 1) If I elect to DIY, is there a specific type of tape I need? I found the install guide for it and apparently if you buy it aftermarket I guess it comes with all the tape pre-cut to the right lengths. There's like... a bunch of sections of tape, including the end pieces which are naturally a special shape. I dunno if I can buy just the tape kit or what. 1a) Also if I DIY, is there special prep I need to do? Or just goof off to get the residue, use alcohol to clean up, and then go nuts? 2) If I elect to get someone else to do this, would this be a normal repair shop? A body shop? A specialty tuner/body kit/mod shop? Or do I suck it up and pay the dealer to do it? Here's the install instructions if it helps visualize it: https://parts.mazdausa.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Mazda/attachments/REAR_SPOILER_PAINT_ASSY_INSTALL_(MAZDA6_14)_ENGLISH.pdf
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May 2, 2024 20:56
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Can you remove the spoiler as is? That would make it a lot easier to cut new pieces of tape. I'd use goof-off to clean the residue, let it dry really well, and then use 3M VHB tape. If you can remove the spoiler, apply the tape to the spoiler with the backer still on it, use an x-acto knife to trim it neatly, and then remove the backer and stick the thing in place. If you can't, I'd slip as much tape as I could under the spoiler with the backer still in place (facing down toward the car), trim, and then remove the backer. Any body shop should be able to tackle it if you don't feel comfortable.
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May 2, 2024 21:24
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Safety Dance posted:Can you remove the spoiler as is? I... don't know. I had assumed I could, but thinking about it, that thing is taped all to hell. If the rest of the tape is holding fast, then I don't know if I can easily remove it. I know the VHB tape is supposed to stick and stick well... I don't know if being 10 years old will make the rest easier to remove, or if the rest is still sticking as well as it did on day 1. Which brings up: it looks like it's pulling away from the body, but holding on the spoiler side. If I can't get the whole thing off, how do I get it off the spoiler? I don't know how far I can bend it before it breaks, so... yeah. Some pictures I guess if it helps:  
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May 2, 2024 22:31
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I think at that point I'd clean under the spoiler as best I could with some q-tips and paper towels soaked in goof-off, slip some VHB tape under there, and call it good for the next 5-10 years. If q-tips don't remove the residue, maybe try flossing underneath the spoiler with some sandpaper in the ~120 to 180 grit range?
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May 2, 2024 23:20
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If you want to go full removal you can use dental floss like a saw. Heat can also help. Either leave it out in the sun for a few hours or be gentle with a hairdryer.
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May 3, 2024 01:12
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What's the opinion on diesel injector swapping? I'm thinking of replacing the diesel injectors on my 270k km Volvo as "preventative" maintenance. Costs a pretty penny though, but they should be nearing end of life at this point. No real loss of power or anything, just some diesel clatter when accelerating as well as some vibration on idle. I'm swapping the engine mounts when I'm doing the next service and cam belt.
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May 3, 2024 18:26
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Getting to be about time to put the summers back on. Bought them new last year with new wheels, when I took them off in late fall I noticed the tire shop also added spline drive lug nuts for the new wheels, which were a bit of a pain to take off. I'd like to use my plain OEM lug nuts that I've had on my winter tires with OEM wheels. Both the spline and OEM have a cone/taper seat and M12 x 1.5. Don't spy any other info/part # on the spline lug nut. What else should I be checking before seeing if this might work out? Edit: Was able to dig up the spline lug nut part number, W56015S. Looks to be 1.38" in length but the OEM lug nut length is 1.25". So if I order M12x1.5 and 1.38" length, cone seat lug nuts, I should be set? reversefungi fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 20:02
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I have a mouse infestation in the headliner of my 2015 Ford fiesta st. I killed two of the fuckers with a trap, but I think something died in my headliner because the car smells like death. Do they even make replacement headliners? I checked out rockauto and googled it and couldn't find much. I also know they've destroyed my keyless entry module, which is in the headliner as well.
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May 4, 2024 01:55
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at that point i would be looking at just getting a big sheet of that plasticized cardboard we used to use for science fair triptychs and cutting to fit and calling it good. full headliner board + cover replacements may get rare-ish on something like that
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May 4, 2024 02:09
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The headliner from a regular wrecking yard non-mousehouse Fiesta should fit. You can probably re-skin it with a nice fabric or something if you so chose. There are a couple listed out of an ST on car-part.com but they're $500. Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:15 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 02:12
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Tbh $500 isn't outlandish considering I figured a dealership would probably charge $2000 or more. Welp, I might as well rip the nasty one out so I can at least drive the car. It looks like it might be easy-ish to install.
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May 4, 2024 02:32
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Jonny 290 posted:a big sheet of that plasticized cardboard we used to use for science fair triptychs Coroplast
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May 4, 2024 02:43
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Any US market hatchback Fiesta will have the same headliner, provided it does/doesnt have a sunroof like your car. No need to pay the ST tax here.
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May 4, 2024 03:58
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reversefungi posted:Getting to be about time to put the summers back on. Bought them new last year with new wheels, when I took them off in late fall I noticed the tire shop also added spline drive lug nuts for the new wheels, which were a bit of a pain to take off. I'd like to use my plain OEM lug nuts that I've had on my winter tires with OEM wheels. Both the spline and OEM have a cone/taper seat and M12 x 1.5. Don't spy any other info/part # on the spline lug nut. What else should I be checking before seeing if this might work out? So long as they fit with a socket in the wheel and are long enough to engage the wheel without running out of threads you're good. Run a couple stock ones on by hand till they're snug. Then jiggle the wheel. If it moves you need deeper threads. If not you're good.
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May 4, 2024 12:08
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In the GM brand marketing / pricing hierarchy of the 50s/60s/70s, Chevrolet was at the bottom, Cadillac was at the top. Of the Buick - Olds - Pontiac trio, what was the order? I thought it Chevrolet Pontiac Olds Buick Cadillac, but I have also seen Chevrolet Olds Pontiac Buick Cadillac.
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May 4, 2024 15:33
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Olds was always higher than Pontiac, and this was true right up to the the end. Trim levels could take it higher than Buick and some Cadillacs, but base Oldsmobiles were never lower than Pontiacs.
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May 4, 2024 16:09
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Olds was always higher than Pontiac, and this was true right up to the the end. Trim levels could take it higher than Buick and some Cadillacs, but base Oldsmobiles were never lower than Pontiacs. Pontiac was the sporty/specialty variant of Chevrolet. Oldsmobile the sporty/specialty version of Buick, with Cadillac at the top. GM described their "ladder of success" as Chevrolet, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 16:22 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 16:17
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I always found it interesting that back in the day, or at least when I was younger, not sure about way way back I guess. The dealers were divided up as chev, Olds, Cadillac and Pontiac, Buick, gmc. I dont think i ever saw a pontiac, olds, and say.... chevy dealer for example. Though I might have seen Buick, Pontiac, Cadillac dealers once or twice And I'm sure some of you will recall when they "merged" Pontiac and gmc. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 16:41 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 16:39
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Got my 16 year old son a 1990 Dodge ram pickup truck. It's got some peeling paint on the hood and roof and I want to get it painted. I have never gotten a car painted before, what am I looking for to make sure I get a quality job of it?
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May 4, 2024 16:49
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honda whisperer posted:So long as they fit with a socket in the wheel and are long enough to engage the wheel without running out of threads you're good. Thanks, I'll give this a shot!
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May 4, 2024 16:50
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spacetoaster posted:Got my 16 year old son a 1990 Dodge ram pickup truck. It's got some peeling paint on the hood and roof and I want to get it painted. Most of the work is prep. It should take an hour to actually do the paint and probably less. The prep work can range in many hours. Ask people you know, look at Google reviews etc....
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May 4, 2024 16:54
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spacetoaster posted:Got my 16 year old son a 1990 Dodge ram pickup truck. It's got some peeling paint on the hood and roof and I want to get it painted. I say this a a parent, not as a pessimist: Your 16-year-old son is probably going to hit something with it. This was the conversation I had with my 15-yo son back in 2009 when we were restoring a ‘68 VW together . We prepped it as best we could (removed all of the glass, & trim loosely installed the fenders, etc) and had Maaco paint it for $500. No regrets & it looked fabulous right up until he sold it in 2017. He did have an accident, but dinged the engine cover, so we hammered it out & painted it black.
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May 4, 2024 17:05
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wesleywillis posted:A reputable body shop, and money. Thanks. Do you think a national chain place with decent reviews/customer service would be acceptable? PainterofCrap posted:I say this a a parent, not as a pessimist: Your 16-year-old son is probably going to hit something with it. This was the conversation I had with my 15-yo son back in 2009 when we were restoring a ‘68 VW together . You are correct. I need to get it painted though because the hood and roof are peeling and the bed is juuuuust starting to rust. I'll keep this in mind though when pricing out the paint job. I've got to get the speedometer fixed too. It's got a tachometer, but I'd like all the gauges to work.
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May 4, 2024 17:33
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Idiot me, should have picked up a new fuel cap (mine's o ring was cracked through. haven't replaced the cap since I got the car a few years back) because the mechanic said to start there first with the light. But they also found my serpentine belt was cracking bad, which might have something else to do with it. A new fuel cap might have been quicker to check, but the belt I wouldn't have seen.
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May 4, 2024 18:17
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Cowslips Warren posted:Idiot me, should have picked up a new fuel cap (mine's o ring was cracked through. haven't replaced the cap since I got the car a few years back) because the mechanic said to start there first with the light. But they also found my serpentine belt was cracking bad, which might have something else to do with it. A new fuel cap might have been quicker to check, but the belt I wouldn't have seen. A cracked belt does not cause codes unless it's basically failed completely, but it IS good to replace any cracked belt. If you know the gas cap is damaged just replace that right away and hope you're lucky and that's the problem.
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May 4, 2024 19:10
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Cowslips Warren posted:Idiot me, should have picked up a new fuel cap (mine's o ring was cracked through. haven't replaced the cap since I got the car a few years back) because the mechanic said to start there first with the light. But they also found my serpentine belt was cracking bad, which might have something else to do with it. A new fuel cap might have been quicker to check, but the belt I wouldn't have seen. new gas cap, new belt, and the light is still on. this is gonna be expensive.
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May 4, 2024 19:25
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Deteriorata posted:Pontiac was the sporty/specialty variant of Chevrolet. Oldsmobile the sporty/specialty version of Buick, with Cadillac at the top. Olds was the “tech forward” wing of the company, which is why they developed the FWD Toronado (later made into the El Dorado) and were the primary minds behind the GM EV1. First touchscreen in a car? 1989 Toronado Trofeo. Olds rarely shared parts with other branches while Pontiac and Chevy were kissing cousins. Hell, Oldsmobile had their own small block 350 with a unique architecture (I think the angle of the V was Olds only too). Olds and Buick didn’t share too much until the badge engineering of the 90s, where they just became the same brand with the same customers. It’s a shame too, because the Cutlass was the number one selling car for almost a decade. When GM cut the tall poppies they used the excuse that Olds didn’t do anything unique compared to Buick (jeez, I wonder why that is?). Oldsmobile should have been the brand that continued instead of Buick. But because the last Chinese Emperor loved his Buick, it had a strong cultural cache connoting power and wealth. Oldsmobile was cut and Buick was saved because the Chinese love Buicks. It was one of the most popular brands in the mid 2000s in China. I’m just bitter because I’m an Oldsmobile man.
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May 4, 2024 21:35
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Olds was the “tech forward” wing of the company, which is why they developed the FWD Toronado (later made into the El Dorado) and were the primary minds behind the GM EV1. First touchscreen in a car? 1989 Toronado Trofeo. Olds rarely shared parts with other branches while Pontiac and Chevy were kissing cousins. Hell, Oldsmobile had their own small block 350 with a unique architecture (I think the angle of the V was Olds only too). Olds and Buick didn’t share too much until the badge engineering of the 90s, where they just became the same brand with the same customers. I am with you, but it wasn't for China it would have been a both situation instead of an or. Not like there's much left of Buick (or Chrysler) anyway.
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May 4, 2024 21:43
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I’m just bitter because I’m an Oldsmobile man. The 1989 Olds 88 Delta Royale was my favorite car I've ever had. Sure, aside from the engine and the body it was about 99% replacement parts, it sucked down gas like crazy, took forever to accelerate, and your music options were limited to fuzzy radio or the Autechre tape stuck in the stereo. It drove well, was cheap to purchase, and repairs were cheap and easy. Got it in 2001, drove it til 2005, new driver kept it til 2008? and passed it along. Not bad for a car built in 89. Huge trucks and SUV's weren't as common so I was often the biggest car on the road.
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May 4, 2024 22:06
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Desert Bus posted:The 1989 Olds 88 Delta Royale was my favorite car I've ever had. Sure, aside from the engine and the body it was about 99% replacement parts, it sucked down gas like crazy, took forever to accelerate, and your music options were limited to fuzzy radio or the Autechre tape stuck in the stereo. I had a 1995. Comfiest comic I ever drove.
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May 4, 2024 22:22
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I’m just bitter because I’m an Oldsmobile man. As a teen i had both a '79 Cutlass and a peavey guitar head with a hosed up faceplate, and i stole the rear Oldsmobile badge and put it on the amp, with the neon power light affixed in the big O. That was the coolest guitar amp i've ever touched, hell yes.
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May 5, 2024 02:46
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Dr. Lunchables posted:
Feel you. 
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May 5, 2024 04:31
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Well I finally stopped getting sidetracked with my car, everything I touched on my way to doing this turned into a day or week long project. So I have finally adjusted the camber, which was my prime suspect. Saab had a neat table to show how much adjustment is needed (via adding or removing shims) and following that I removed 4mm of shims and the car now drives straight like it used to. I haven't checked the toe-in yet though. That's next. Might as well verify caster too.
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May 5, 2024 13:15
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Dr. Lunchables posted:
Yeah...first car, a '72 Olds. Top five favorite design of all time...'68 (or so) Toronado (Along with the Eldo in the same age range). Between all that and the 442 designation, just pure awesome sauce. People salivate over the six pack Chrysler. In '57 Olds had their J-2 option.
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May 5, 2024 14:19
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah...first car, a '72 Olds. Mine was a 1974 Cutlass S. It had the fastback design unlike the formal Supreme. It was a lumbering gas-guzzling beast and I miss it.
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May 5, 2024 15:45
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