Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Wife and I are buying a house (yay) and it has a lot of old outlets. The breaker box is good but all the outlets should be upgraded so I posted this in the wiring thread but:

Hey thread, if I wanted to install a GFCI outlet that's something I can do myself right?
You just:
Turn off the power
Check that you won't electrocute yourself
Uncrew the old outlet
Disconnect the wires
Connect to new outlet
Screw in new outlet to wall?
Turn on the power (Optional)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
I think I (or a parent) has one of those little plugs. Good tip on the outlet drawing.
But am I right about the outlet itself? I can do it myself and it is that easy?

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

FISHMANPET posted:

If you've been blessed with GFCI breakers for (nearly) every circuit like I have, you can use your tester and hit the GFCI test button to trip the circuit and see which breaker it is.

Well the issue here is the house pmuch doesn't have any so I'm thinking of taking a day to just swap them all out.

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

BonerGhost posted:

If you're planning to do all of them, it's going to be much easier and cheaper to buy CAFI/GFCI breakers instead. Unless your panel is trash, I guess.

According to inspector guy the panel is A-OK (needs some new putty, one circuit is double tapped, but there's space to do it right)

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

Anne Whateley posted:

Only if you have modern wiring. If you have older wiring with no neutral, time to call a pro.

House was built in 93 so I'm sure it does

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
My dad just casually dropped how he bought a home with 12% rate in the 80's.

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

That Works posted:

I want to run network cable through a few parts of my house just from the basement to the 1st floor. My home was built in 2004, nothing unusual about design or manufacture, typical up to code layout. 2 stories sitting on top of a concrete tub basement.

The server / router etc is in a basement closet. The basement is half finished / half unfinished but with suspended ceiling tiles so incredibly easy access across the basement roof and into the 1st floor areas above.

Most of the videos I have found so far for running cable start out with fishing cabling from the attic down, given that I am not running anything to the 2nd floor this seems like a looooot of extra effort. Is there a good article / video series / or just general tips on running cables without having to start tearing out large drywall sections etc? I am unsure if I can for example drill up from the basement into a wall or not. I presume this would only be possible for interior walls.

Follow the phone wries, and if you're a futureist, replace them.

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Ok what's the deal with fencing?
Everyone keeps telling me I can get one for like 10 11k and yet the last two estimates I got were for 20 and 54k!?

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
270 feet with avinyl fence.
There's existing fence on about half of it that needs to be torn down.
E; sorry I'm just getting sticker shock because I had expected so much and now it's much higher

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

VelociBacon posted:

because my cat

Give up

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

more falafel please posted:

I have a crappy-ish Hunter ceiling fan I got from Home Depot and installed myself a few years ago. Unfortunately, the medium and low speeds are effectively useless, so I pretty much only run it on high. In the last year or so, it started sometimes not switching to high, or it would switch to high but not actually get up to speed. It's unclear to me if it's the motor, the switch, the speed controller, or something else, but now it won't go on high at all, which makes it an ugly light fixture.

Any tips to figure out what the problem is? And what's the non-landlord special ceiling fan that I can replace it with if not? A medium/low speed that actually moves some air would be nice for the colder months.

You may have blown the motor running it full speed all the time

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

There is a world of difference between the contractor special big box fans sold under the Hunter brand and the real Hunter fans. The real ones can stay on for decades at a time with maybe an occasional bit of lubrication.

How do I know the difference

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
But but but my hunter green uses the official app!

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Lmao

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Every toilet in my house was grouted to the floor and all were leaking but I couldn't tell because, again, they were grouted to the floor.
The only sign was a stain in the ceiling

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin

PainterofCrap posted:

To be fair: the vast majority of closet-flange leaks (from the wax ring) do not show in the bathroom, around the toilet, but on the ceiling/wall of the room(s) below. So even if they hadn't grouted, there may not have been anything to see.

Some installers caulk around the front. So long as they leave the back open, it should be enough air exchange.

Full Disclosure: I do not put anything around that seam.
They also did not secure the outlet pipe to anything, it was all floating.
Everyone I've had out took one look and said "you don't do that" everyone, except, my inspector when I bought the house

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Also the subfloors are too thin and they're not sitting on joists they were only ran to the wall, ahhhhhhhh

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

HootTheOwl
May 13, 2012

Hootin and shootin
Your flanges and valves are probably also secure to something so that when you sit on the toilet all the force isn't applied directly to the pipe.
My flanges were load-bearing

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply