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life is killing me posted:A quick question: If recaulking didn't help, your professional leak detective is most likely going to recommend one of three things: redoing the flashing around the exterior frame, removing and reinstalling the door, or replacing the door completely, How old is the sliding door? Do you know if it is framed with wood, aluminum, or vinyl? Can you take a picture of the exterior side of the door, looking down on the top edge?
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Aug 25, 2017 16:58
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The Dregs posted:What is the best way to go about making my home more energy efficient? I have vaulted ceilings on a split level home and the living room doesn't like to dip below 80 in the Georgia Summer, even though my AC is running nearly all the time and putting me in the poorhouse with 480 dollar electric bills. I am pretty sure my windows are poo poo. My AC unit was bottom of the line when they installed it about 12 years ago. I don't have the money to replace all my windows, and get new insulation for the attic (and maybe try to insulate the vaulted part), and replace the ac unit. At least I don't have enough to do them all at once anyway. But I would like to get started on whatever will give me the most bang for my buck. Do the vaulted ceilings have ceiling fans large enough to circulate the air? Do you have windows going to the peak of the vault? And are the windows south facing? e: Is there attic space between your vault and the roof? Normally their isn't unless their is a flat ceiling like in this picture:  And while that gives you a little room for extra insulation, the roof line being right next to the living space is where the heat transfer is happening. i.e. you are probably cold in the winter and hot in the summer. And if you have charcoal/black shingles--they aren't helping your summer woes. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 18:50
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ElCondemn posted:Go take a peek at forums for landlords, they're really vile. ElCondemn posted:I've been a landlord in a few states. ElCondemn posted:landlords are generally pieces of poo poo.
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Aug 29, 2017 02:01
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dumb. posted:Would any of you classy homowners have a recommendation for (ideally wireless) security cameras that aren't a) ridiculously expensive or b) tied to some bs monthly fee cloud storage bs? Foscam and Amcrest are other inexpensive cameras. Foscam are Chinese made. If I've followed the press releases correctly, Amcrest bought Foscam and moved the manufacturing to the USA? (I think....) The Amcrest cameras are inexpensive and have decent quality, but Amcrest wants you to use their monthly subscription service to view and record multiple cameras unless you want to use a third party program like ZoneMinder, IP Cam Viewer, iSpy, Blue Iris, et al. The Foscam cameras aren't as good of picture quality as the Amcrest, but they have one really nice feature: Multi-camera view. You can link all the Foscam cameras together using software built into the camera. It makes it very easy to view multiple cameras from outside (ore inside) your network. One drawback to the Foscams--shortly after Amcrest bought Foscam they made an announcement that Foscam cameras had up to 17 vulnerabilities in the firmware that would never be corrected, including hard coded admin login/pass and access to your network. Since that announcement, Foscam China has released updated firmwares to address the vulnerabilities--but there is a bit of a trust issue with using cheap Chinese cameras. Caveat emptor.
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Aug 30, 2017 17:19
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Is there a dedicated thread for all things home automation? Home Assistant/Wink/SmartThings type stuff?
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Sep 12, 2017 20:18
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Thank you! All sorts of good stuff in Inspector Your Gadets.
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Sep 12, 2017 20:59
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Steve French posted:I have a mostly unfinished basement with asbestos tile flooring. For the most part it is intact, but there are a few places with cracks and gaps between the tile, and in one particular area some more severe cracking. Asbestos dust is really, really bad for you. Gets in the lungs and doesn't leave type stuff. Those floor tiles I suspect fall into the non-friable asbestos category--meaning they are not easy to grind into dust. i.e. you can take a floor scraper to the tiles, pop them up, and safely put them in the trash. Wouldn't be a bad idea to wear a respirator with that said. What kind of floor do you want as a replacement? If you want an epoxy or vinyl floor, I'd scrape up the tiles. If you want to float a laminate or engineered wood floor you'd probably be ok with using a leveling compound on the broken tiles and putting the floor on top of the tiles. (I'm assuming there is concrete under the tiles.)
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Sep 19, 2017 23:30
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You can get smart locks for $100 to $200 a piece. Kwikset, Schlage, and Yale all offer them. Programming them to lock/unlock when you leave the house is fairly easy to do. Home Assistant running on Raspberry Pi with a Z-Wave stick would be my recommendation in combination with presence detection using your router/Find/OwnTracks. If you have smart smoke/co2 detectors it is even possible to unlock the doors in an emergency situation. But seconding the others saying adding deadbolts to internal doors is a little wonky. If you truly want to hide a room--look into a hidden door with magnetic locks. The magnetic locks are under $200 on ebay. Or if it is general purpose room add a wall or floor safe. A combination of overt and covert cameras outside the home to record motion and a good insurance policy would be my recommendation. e:fb so slow at typing.. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 10, 2017 |
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Oct 10, 2017 22:04
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:It's a finished basement, with its own heating zone. The central air is only on the first floor, not in the basement. (It really doesn't need it.)
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Oct 10, 2017 22:12
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:There is a basement door, yes. Finished is a bit of a misnomer. Condition versus non-conditioned space is what the HVAC and inspectors are looking at. You described a semi-conditioned space--which counts as conditioned. With a conditioned space you don't need anything special door or insulation wise to meet code. With that said--the doorways between conditioned and non-conditioned spaces should be solid and sealed. Inspectors in our area want to see a draft stop on the bottom of the door--just like you have on your exterior doors. A quick lighter test on the coldest/hottest days will tell you if you'd benefit from better sealing. (Hold a lighter along the edges and watch the flame for movement caused by drafts.)
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Oct 11, 2017 04:17
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life is killing me posted:I'm sure there's water INgress. Probably will pull the tub or get my handyman to do it. On the other side of the tub there should be a dedicated outlet with one or two items plugged in--unplug those to disconnect the jets/heater. What will suck, is if the drywaller/tile installers covered all the access points. If that is the case, grabbing a borescope camera off Amazon would be a good idea before you start making bigger holes.
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Oct 13, 2017 20:15
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Kashwashwa posted:Quick plumbing question... I've lived in my super old house for about 18 months. My only bathroom is upstairs, and it almost never completely flushes properly.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:41
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Time Trial posted:Having a contractor tile our bathroom and install a new bathtub. Old one was installed just over the plywood subfloor. Looks like there floor is in fine condition, with a patch of discoloration due to water damage in one corner. The contractor thinks its fine to just install the new tub over the subfloor and just have waterproofing under the tiles. Is that fine or should I have him do waterproofing under the tub too? Also, getting a steel enameled tub. Is insulating under a tub a thing people do to minimize heat loss? Ideally you want the tub to sit on a bed of mortar. And you are going to want some plastic (10mil or so is fine) between the mortar and your subfloor to keep the water from the curing mortar out of your subfloor. Helps if you can fill the tub too and let the water sit for a few days during the cure.
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Nov 16, 2017 04:31
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Bird in a Blender posted:Keep in mind, if you lay new floor down, you'll need to rework some of your trim because the floor is going to be higher. But those floors look great. 2nding everyone that recommends having them refinished while the house is empty. Outlets can always be added with minimal mess compared to dust every involved with sanding. And if you lay real floors over top the existing floors--you're still going to need to sand... (And that wood looks too good to throw something like laminate or engineered on top of.)
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Nov 30, 2017 21:41
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Hubis posted:I am honestly more annoyed at the flood lights they have on their 2nd story that lights up not only their postage-stamp yard but also the backside of our house whenever a squirrel wanders through the lot. Not recommended, but very effective: a wrist rocket with glass marbles. (The glass marbles tend to leave less clues as to what has happened then a steel ball or pellet and cause less damage if you miss.)
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Jan 11, 2018 00:52
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Friend posted:
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Feb 28, 2018 00:28
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Does your road have storm drains or is it just paved with curbs?
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Mar 1, 2018 20:17
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Wrap your spigot with plumber's teflon tape. Helps with the inevitable grit that gets in the hose threads. Also, the orange covering over the hose might be hiding a leak where the fitting meets the hose.
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Mar 12, 2018 02:44
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Have you paid for a home inspector to inspect the property from top to bottom? Not one recommended by your builder.
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May 12, 2018 19:02
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Does the top of the window look worse than the bottom? Nothing about the picture seems to suggest you need to do anything with the window. It appears you only need to replace the sheathing and small section of a 2x4 on the jack stud. (The king stud is the outside 2x4 and the jack stud is the one that looks like it rotted down to nothing.) Jab an ice pick or a flat bladed screwdriver into the wood you are worried is rotted. If the board is spongy enough to hold the screwdriver you're going to want to replace it. The sole plate (bottom board along the floor) looks like it has some damage but is solid for the most part? Do you have a zip tool? (https://www.thespruce.com/zip-tool-for-remove-vinyl-siding-1824719) Loosen the siding around the rotted sheathing. Cut back the rotted sheathing to the center of the closest studs. Cut three short 2x4's that will fit in the rotted area under the window. Slide two of the 2x4's into the cavity--they should fit snuggly. Put one in the middle and one a few inches away from the rotted stud--leaving enough room to get your sawzall in there. Don't worry about nailing the 2x4s. Cut out the bad 2x4 flush with the sill plate. Cut a replacement 2x4 to fit super snug. Remove the temporary 2x4's and nail the repaired 2x4 in place. Cut a replacement piece of sheathing to match what was removed. Nail it in place. Staple some Tyvek over the sheathing and tape the seams. Will take a few hours with the siding being the biggest pain to deal with--but a lot easier than pulling out the window. Unless there is damage not shown. e: I'm thinking you won't need house wrap tape--looking again there doesn't seem to be any house wrap. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 06:14 on May 15, 2018 |
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May 15, 2018 06:02
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Hubis posted:[TELL] Me About Gutter Guards and/or Cleaning Pro Tips/Tricks.  If your gutters are sections joined together and/or not using hidden mounts--you might want to think about replacing your gutters with seamless. Will help with the low spots. Plus the guys that come out with the seamless machine would install the guards at the same time. The American version of the bristly thing in the gutters would be these, I think: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GUTTERSTUFF-5-in-x-48-in-K-Style-Foam-Gutter-Filter-GS-K5-SPAN/203318223 Still waiting to find someone I know that owns and uses a looj--the reviews seem mixed, but what a fun toy to have: https://smile.amazon.com/iRobot-330-Gutter-Cleaning-Robot/dp/B00A1590RS
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Jun 1, 2018 18:28
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just another posted:The outlet tester gave it a 'correct' reading, but is there a reason to have the white wire to load and the black wire to line? A lot to take in with that picture. Line is the hot from your breaker panel and is the black wire. Load is the device being powered and is the white. Never seen that much dust on a receptacle that had an outlet cover and was in decent gang box. Not a fan of electricians that use the backstab connectors. Diagnosed too many problems that traced back to stabbed connections often with lots of arcing signs. Clean up the outlet/get a new one and use the screw terminals, maybe?
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Jun 6, 2018 06:10
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ElCondemn posted:I need some advice about a home I’m about to buy. I just went through inspection yesterday and found mostly minor issues except one that I’m worried will cost me big later. My guess would be the post was installed on the garage floor and there is no footer--meaning instead of a 2x2x3 hole being dug where the post was to be installed, there is just the 4" of concrete that makes up the garage floor. In and of itself--fixing a post footer isn't a huge job. Two temporary posts would be put on either side. The cracked concrete would be jack hammered/dug out to the correct depth. A new footer poured and the post reinstalled. $3K for the job would be on the high side in my area. But the recommendation to get an engineer is a good one. The first thing to find out is if the rooms above the garage were built with a permit and inspected. (Based on age and the fact it is multiple bedrooms and a bath--I'd think it was under a permit.) What you don't want is to find out is something like the joists are 2x8's spaced 24" on center--a space originally meant to store Christmas ornaments and the like but was converted into living space. That kind of repair is going to run a lot more than $3K!
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Jun 11, 2018 17:41
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life is killing me posted:So I'm looking into getting fixed wireless broadband (all I can get, and THAT is iffy even). So far no companies have been able to get me service because of trees blocking LOS to a radio tower. HOWEVER, if we put a dish further out on our dock (lakefront) it might be able to see the radio tower just fine, but this is about ~100ft from our house and down a hill to boot. The cable running between would need to be buried or protected, I'd assume. So, the only thing that could keep us from having to trench in our yard or pay someone to do it (and hit more sprinkler lines) would POSSIBLY be the Sch40 electrical conduit running from the side of our stairway down to the dock itself. Is there anything inside the sch40? If not, make a "rat" out of a plastic walmart bag and tie a string to the back side. (you want the bag puffed up enough to fill the pipe, but not crammed in so hard it won't move. Take a wet/dry vac to other side and turn it on while someone else makes sure the string feeds. When the rat pops out, tie your cable and another string to your pull string (square knot), cover with a bit of tape, spray some lithium (or use legit wire pull lube) on the tape, and pull your wire. Leave the 2nd string in the conduit in case you need to pull anything in the future. And if you have electricity on your dock/the power stays on while you need internet and you can keep the equipment dry, maybe just run ethernet between the house and the dock. Keep all the broadband wireless stuff on the dock and just have access points in the house.
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Jun 12, 2018 18:11
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Would need to see a close up shot of the edges to make a better guess.
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Jun 15, 2018 17:32
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red19fire posted:Can anyone recommend pest control options? . 2nd Terro for the ants. And for the cobwebs/spiders grab some Suspend SC from Amazon.
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Jul 21, 2018 15:43
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Accent trim!! That room was so fresh it hasn't even become a thing, yet.... 
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Aug 19, 2018 22:57
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willroc7 posted:1350.00 to do last two rooms
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Sep 24, 2018 20:20
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You can get pretty fancy with the epoxy finishes. Pure white with black streaked through it does a great faux marble. Diamond Crystals are my personal favorite, but too 70's for lots of people. The fancier epoxy finishes are not something you'd want to DIY on a large space because if you screw up the epoxy it is really hard to fix after it cures. Also, because of the prep and multiple coats involved, epoxy will take longer and cost more than many floor finishes. Acid stained with a top coat is the place to start if you want to DIY an epoxy floor. Schluter underlayment with porcelain/ceramic tiles gets my vote. I'm partial to the Schluter floor warming--uses electricity instead of hot water to heat the floors. The heating systems don't fail or they wouldn't be sold. But with that said, I like the system that spews electrons all over the room instead of H2O molecules if something were to go bad. Area rugs for the bare feet areas. And adding a water alarm in the areas that might see water problems is a good idea. The Flo (https://meetflo.com/) available from Home Depot seems too good to be true. Waiting for someone else to drop the $500 first though. From what I know, I don't think Flo works with SmartThings or Home Assistant, which has kept me from trying it out.
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Oct 26, 2018 19:13
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KKKLIP ART posted:So I don’t really know what thread to put this in because it’s not totally plumbing, but apparently our dishwasher isn’t insulated and that’s why it has been absurdly loud. The OEM wrap is pretty much a felt blanket that does nothing. How hard is it to insulate a dishwasher and is there any particular type of insulation I should use? Search for Hushmat. Most American households use slide in dishwashers over the stand alone units. 
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Dec 4, 2018 23:05
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If your problem is watching TV in the living room while someone is in the kitchen, do you have a sound bar or some kind of sound system with a subwoofer? Our open kitchen sound woes were fixed with a subwoofer. The bass was enough to augment the sound enough to be heard easily over the sink, stove top, fans, etc. . The problem with a folding frame is where to keep it when you don't want the space closed off. If louder sound in the living room isn't an option, my vote would be Roman/ceiling mounted shades from someone like MoonDream. Acoustical curtains aren't cheap though and I wouldn't be surprised if the cost is similar to removing the counter and framing in the space. Installing the curtains would be a heck of a lot less mess though...
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Jan 15, 2019 18:54
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red19fire posted:What are my choices for fixing this? I think I will ultimately need a new door, but is there anything I can do to at least minimize this draft until the spring? So far I think a can of spray rubber flex-seal would work and let me use the door, or I could at least use duct tape.
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Feb 1, 2019 19:19
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This post turned into a book... tl:dr https://www.cityofwhiteplains.com/86/Building Call or drop by during inquiry hours and explain the situation to an inspector. Take pictures with you, if you have them. They can tell you what it will take to make legal or if it has to go. The issue with being unpermitted is with the appraisal, but not quite in the way, I think your thinking. First off. There is a thing called "material fact" in real estate. If the seller knows of certain faults and fails to disclose those faults--they are liable. Unpermited improvements and additions are typically a material fact. Which means the seller should have told their realtor. And then the seller's realtor is required to tell all prospective buyers of the material facts. (Wood boring inspects, prone to flooding, pending assessment, pending neighborhood changing construction--like the woods in the back are turning into a highway in six months stuff--all material facts) Appraisers aren't paid enough to check the permit history on a property. But a good real estate firm will require their selling agents to pull the permit history on a house. The only way an appraiser knows something is unpermitted is if they are told. Appraisers are only interested in finding comparable properties. Don't know the details of New York transactions. But in most states--the buyer pays for the appraiser. i.e. the appraiser is working for you, not the bank--but the bank/underwriters are sure going to want to see that appraisal. Depending on the bank, they might even want to see more--like a survey, a home inspection, and maybe, a well/septic inspection, but I'm getting sidetracked... If the appraisal comes back with a value lower than your contract price, you are going to find the bank won't loan you as much as they said they would initially. I don't know your bed/bath count or contract price, but going to make up some numbers: You have a contract for $100K, you are bringing $20K and financing $80K. If the appraisal comes back with a $90K value, the bank is only going to lend you $72K and if the sellers won't renegotiate the price and you really want the house--you'll need to pony up the extra $8K at closing. The appraiser is going to measure your house, count bedrooms, count bathrooms, and get your lot size from the survey/tax records then find at least three similar properties in the neighborhood that have sold recently and determine the value of the house. And this is were the unpermitted work comes into play. Instead of comparing your 3 bed, 3 bath house with another 3 bed, 3 bath homes--you'll be compared to 3 bed, 4 bath homes--because the appraiser will count the unpermitted bathroom as a bathroom. Home prices in Westchester aren't cheap. Based on area comps--your appraiser can tell you the value of a full or half bath. i.e. a full bath in this area adds $25K to the value of the house. So, what to do? If you have a good realtor, hopefully they have explained all this and more. Not knowing Westchester County's bad/bath requirements makes it tough to say what to do/will happen if inspectors get involved. In our area a house can have as many bathrooms as you would like and is only limited in bedrooms. For my market, if the Inspection Dept got involved with a 30ish year old bathroom improvement, they would issue a permit (at double the typical rate) with maybe a small fine (typically no fine if you were not the owner when the work was done). The inspector would come out and inspect what he could, looking for past water damage and making sure GFI outlets were in place. Assuming no issues are found--poof less than a thousand dollars and thirty minutes later your unpermitted improvement is now legal and permitted. Oh and then the tax department finds out too and your property taxes might go up. But, no idea how Westchester would handle the unpermitted work. Westchester might want to see all the work behind the wallboard and/or require all the work to meet the current code--which is the same cost as putting in a new bathroom. If Westchester limits bathrooms for your lot or septic and you are over the limited amount--your faced with expanding the septic if possible, requesting a variance to the bathroom count, or simply removing the bathroom. This is all stuff your realtor should know. I'm assuming you know about unpermitted work because your realtor told you. And I'm assuming your realtor knows because the sellers told their realtor--who told your's. The seller's agent should have encouraged the sellers to contact Permitting & Inspections (https://www.cityofwhiteplains.com/86/Building) to get the bathroom straightened out. A permitted bath would increase the value of the house resulting in a higher commission. Unpermitted work scares off buyers and means a longer time on market. Many reasons for that not to have happened, but a big reason people won't try to make it legal is they know the most likely outcome is having to remove the improvement. Which brings us to the bottom line--how is the house priced? Is the house priced like a 3 bed 4 bath, or is it priced like a 3 bed 3 bath? If the sellers are asking for a price in line with 3 bed 4 bath--I'd recommend renegotiating price or requiring the sellers to legalize the improvement. If you are going to buy the house with the unpermitted improvement, at least give a call or stop by during inquiry hours at Permitting & Inspections and explain the situation. Inspectors get a bad rap, all they want to do is make sure folks are safe and have a sound investment. Those guys will tell in probably less time than it took to read this what your getting into. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 06:34
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If you have any type of voice assistant (Google home/Alexa) think about connecting your lights with a compatible smart plug. Being able to turn on your counter lights by voice when cooking sure is convenient. Personally, I use RGBW strip lights in aluminum tracks with diffusers and a Fibaro RGBW controller. (https://smile.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW) If you run Home Assistant, it supports the MiLight wifi controllers which are a lot less expensive but can't provide/report their current state (on/off/color/dim level stuff). And an idea for night lites in the kitchen--if you have unused space between the top of your cabinets and the ceiling, put some RGB(W) strip lights up there on a dusk to dawn outlet. (https://www.lowes.com/pd/PRIME-15-Amp-2-Outlet-Mechanical-Residential-Plug-in-Countdown-Lighting-Timer/4740852)
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Feb 18, 2019 23:20
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TheReverend posted:I have some severe tree situations. Big ole oak trees in Georgia. https://www.lowes.com/pd/smart-screen-aluminum-gutter-guard-5-in-x-20-ft/1000192439 The venturi effect type gutter guards look cool on TV and at trade shows, but suck if you have steep roof or heavy rain. Not a fan of the venturi. Venturi seems to be phasing out into something more like: https://www.lowes.com/pd/amerimax-solid-gutter-cover-pvc-gutter-cover-6-in-x-4-ft/3057313 Way less expensive, but there is something to be said for bolting on your gutter guards and not thinking about them ever again.
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Apr 23, 2019 18:28
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meatpimp posted:Floor chat:
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Sep 11, 2019 19:57
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You don't need an electrician to re-install a fan. Does the fan have a switch or is it all humidity controlled? Do you want to replace the fan or can it re-used? If it was my house, I'd be looking for a painter with drywall skills. Cut out the damaged section. Put in a new piece of drywall. Rough fit you fan. Tape, mud, sand and paint your patch. Reinsert fan.
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Sep 11, 2019 20:29
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Guessing, based on old attics. Your fan is venting right into the attic--no vents involved. Bonus points if the insulation in the joist bays around the fan has been removed. If either are the case--you'll want to vent the fan. Most HVAC service folks have every thing needed to do a soffit vent on their trucks and /or would let you know what your options would be for venting. Venting a bathroom fan isn't a hard job--just a miserable one. Wedged in a hot attic with nasty old insulation and nails poking through the sheathing ready to spear you in the head/slice the back of your hand... Not a big dude job. A general handyman can do the job. The job only gets hard if you have to go through the roof. If insulation is missing, replace as needed. You can buy precut lengths in a bundle--makes them very easy to move around. Your new fan should be IC rated. (Insulation Contact) Missing insulation would be cause of one room being warmer than others. (But windows and air vent locations probably more of a factor...)
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Sep 11, 2019 21:23
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meatpimp posted:The bamboo with the aluminum oxide finish is absolutely impervious to my attacks with my tungsten carbide ring. https://www.bwdepot.com/ipe-decking-pictures http://www.ipedepot.com/flooring.htm
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Sep 12, 2019 20:51
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Wasn't the white bread with no crusts trick mentioned a few pages ago? Plumbers have little air bladders and a few other tools they can slide in the pipe to dry things enough to solder. A bit of redneck method is to wad up a bit of white bread with no crusts and push it into the pipe to soak up the drip just long enough for you to do your work before it dissolves. Sharkbite sure does make working with wet pipes easy!
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Sep 23, 2019 18:31
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