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Would it be worth getting those garage door insulation kits if my garage doesn't have insulation in the walls? The walls are rocked, but without insulation.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:00
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  I have an existing masonite pegboard setup, but I just bought 8 blue panels for no good reason other than it will look cool in my garage. At least I can sell it to my wife that they are stronger. (Thank you for posting the link)
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Aug 9, 2019 13:55
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Does anyone have dishwasher recommendations? I'm currently looking at the Bosch 800 series. I wouldn't mind spending less if possible but I want something that will last. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Aug 14, 2019 |
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Aug 14, 2019 18:04
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w00tmonger posted:Is there any benefit to insulating/weatherstripping the garage door on my attached garage? I won't be using it as a workshop during my Canadian winter, but my living room is right above it and obviously the floor gets a bit cold. Are your walls insulated in your garage? I insulated my doors last year, and it does make a bit of difference, but they didn't insulate my walls so it's not dramatically different.
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Oct 23, 2019 12:35
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Sirotan posted:I'm thinking about some kind of dusk-to-dawn light there instead of motion sensing. The neighbor's house is about 20ft away and there are 4 windows facing that light. I've only been in the house for 3 days now but it seems like they keep their blinds drawn 100% of the time on those windows. How much of an rear end in a top hat am I if I install a light there that is now on all night long? I'd say it's your right to install a light. If you get one with multiple glass panes on it, tell the neighbor you're installing a light that you plan on having on at night and offer to black out the one pane that faces their house if it bothers them. I have landscape lighting at the front of my house along the pathway, with a couple of LV spots shining on the front of the house (I made sure the light cutoff was below the roof line to mitigate some of the light pollution). I think they are set to go on at dusk and off around midnight. I do have 2 lights on either side of my door but I only turn those on if I'm expecting company.
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Nov 19, 2019 15:58
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Motronic posted:Yes, Ditra is awesome. It's expensive, but it works really well. Ditra sucks because they make you use unmodified mortars, although now that they are getting into the mortar game they might be walking that back. If your plywood is properly put down, you can use Custom Redgard, which is pretty much painting a latex sheet over the whole floor. You'll need to do something other than just redgard for the shower though. You can stay with Custom for that too if you want, they have pre-fab shower pans that are pretty much styrefoam, or you can use sand and cement to create a mud bed, but that's not the easiest thing to do. Then just use thinset/medium bed mortar (depending on your tile size) over top of that. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 19:02
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Motronic posted:Over concrete. You use regular thinset over ply/OSB. Still needs unmodified between the waffle and the tile though. That, on top of the added cost and added labor, means unless it's specifically called out in the spec we're going to go a different route.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:17
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w00tmonger posted:Awesome. Any reason to gently caress around with the self levelling underlay? I imagine whatever I go with I'll want some sort of waterproofing (liquid redguard?) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 22:12
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His Divine Shadow posted:Waterproofing bathrooms and also the mud room are required by code here. Good point. If code calls for it, make sure you do it.
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Feb 4, 2020 16:27
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How many windows?
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Feb 5, 2020 16:03
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HycoCam posted:For Pella or Anderson--you're going to pay. Especially, if the quote includes installation through the window manufacturer. You're not going to regret having either brand. What's a decent price to pay for pella/anderson replacement, figuring on a standard window size?
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Feb 5, 2020 22:36
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socketwrencher posted:The challenge with disposals is often adding the switch, given tile backsplashes and whatnot. You can use one of those air actuated buttons, but then you'd need (another?) hole in your countertop. https://www.homedepot.com/p/InSinkErator-Sink-Top-Switch-Push-Button-in-Satin-Nickel-for-Garbage-Disposals-STC-SN/100460203 nielsm posted:Having a garbage disposal that takes electricity, in the home, seems like a really strange idea to me as a lower middle class European. I don't even know what it is specifically... A shredder of sorts? It's for smaller bits of food, you don't have to deal with strainers at each drain. Scrape the big stuff off of your plate into the garbage, then just rinse off the rest. It pulverizes the food into small enough pieces that it can easily go down the drain. A lot of people just use it for everything (skipping the scraping big stuff into the trash) and wonder why they get clogged up, but they still do a pretty remarkable job even when they are misused. They are also fun to try and get something like a bottle cap out of it if you accidentally drop it down there. No matter if it's disconnected from the power or not, I'm always positive it's going to turn on and mangle my hand. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:30 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 19:26
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SourKraut posted:A handyman we know tore out the shower and tile pieces we'd need to replace, and we find out that they didn't water proof/tile the shower properly, and often simply grouted the tile to drywall in places and not even cement board. Sorry, I can't comment on the contractor issue because I don't know your area. However I can comment on the waterproofing. If your house is anything more than 15-20 years old, no waterproofing on shower walls isn't exactly shocking. Neither is the tile directly adhered to drywall, I would hope it was at least greenboard, but I don't think I started seeing durarock/hardibacker specified on jobs until about 15 years ago. As recently as 2009, we did a hotel in Philly that was just thinset on greenboard, no waterproofing. The idea is that you really only need waterproofing where there is standing water. Tile itself is inherently waterproof, and on a vertical surface, the water is just running down the surface. Add that to the typical usage a home shower gets and you don't really need it. However in this day and age, especially with the liquid applied waterproofing, it's often just easier to do it as a just in case. Also grouts are far more than just standard cement now, and they also tend to have water resistant properties. Even today we will often just run the waterproofing about a foot or so up the shower walls and just go tile on backer board, and it is all perfectly to code. This isn't small jobs, so taking the extra half day to waterproof the entire shower adds up (2 hours per shower x 250 units = $80,000), so it's often not done. That said, when I do my own house later this year, I'm going to be waterproofing the floor, 4" up the walls around the perimeter of the room, and up to the level of the shower head. Regarding liquid applied vs. schluter. gently caress schluter waterproofing. I have no idea how they have gotten it out there that they are the be-all/end-all of waterproofing that everyone must have or you're all going to die. Laticrete developed a sheet based waterproof membrane back in the 70's called 9235. You paint this black latex poo poo on the ground, lay out the sheet, then paint over the sheet. The sheet provides strength and also allows the membrane to flex and act as a crack suppression membrane. In the early '00's they developed Hydroban, which wasn't great when it first came out. It was a fluid applied waterproofing, but had no sheet. It still met all the specs of the 9235 waterproofing. Mapei, Ardex, Custom, and I think bostick, all rolled out their own versions, which got much better over the years. Our shop will pretty much use redgard as a default, unless we're going for the mega-warranty. Aquadefense is just as good as Redgard, we haven't used ardex's very much and considering I'm not 100% positive that bostick has one, you can infer how much we use that. Redgard (and the others) work by painting a layer, waiting for it to dry, then painting another layer. You end up with pretty much a 1/8" thick latex sheet that stretches and holds water, but the mortar still sticks nicely to it. You only need a sheet membrane in corner transitions, we will also tend to use it if there's a particularly nasty active crack in a concrete floor (this will rarely present itself in a home unless you're tiling a basement or it's a condo). If you're going down over durarock, the seams between the boards should be mudded and taped by the taper (or your installer) prior to installation of the redgard. Now on to schluter. They are an awesome company. They dominate the market of transition strips in this area at least, and their products are ingenious. I absolutely love their shower curbs, their prefab pans are awesome, they just rolled out these awesome decorative shower shelves, and their linear drains are loving great because you can do 1 plane pitch to a drain, which allows you to have gently caress off huge tiles on the shower floor without worrying about lippage (even though the drains make it interesting union-wise, because the plumbers want to set the drains but they tie into the tiling system, so who does what...). Their waterproofing and crack supression, on the other hand... Putting down kerdi sucks. First off, you're stuck with using unmodified mortar. Ok. Mortar tangent. Most of your mortars are what are called latex modified mortars. The latex generally improves work-ability, adds flexibility (on a microscopic scale), water resistance, and strength. When you add water to the mortar, it allows all of the powders and such to mix up, and as the moisture evaporates out of the mortar, the cement crystallizes and grows into itself. The latex helps strengthen this bond. One of the issues with the larger format tiles now is that the moisture takes far longer to exit the tiles. If you set a 24x24 porcelain tile on a waterproof membrane with a 3mm/~1/8" joint and pull it up a day later, you'll have hard mortar around the first couple inches of the tile, and the mortar in the center of the tile will still be "Green" (wet). It can take a long rear end time for the mortar to fully dry out/cure. The reason for this is that the air has pretty much no outlet other than the absurdly narrow grout joint. The tile is impermeable, the waterproof membrane is the same, and your grout inhibits airflow as well (which is the point) The latex not only helps to add strength during this time, but also can have other additives to pretty much self cure and not rely solely on evaporation to do the job. Unmodified mortars don't have the latex, and don't have many of the other fun additives that can be added. They are pretty much sand, portland cement and maybe lime. Unmodified mortars are perfectly fine to set a mosaic or something, but pretty much anything over 8"x8" (20cm) you should be using a modified mortar, as the long curing time (in the center of the tile) can lead to a weakened bond and cause the tiles to pop. Ok, detour over back to schluter. Schluter (in the States) only allows you to use unmodified mortars when setting ditra and kerdi. So right off the bat, you're using a crappy mortar. So now you have to comb out the mortar to where you want the sheet. Then you lay the sheet out, and dry trowel the sheet into the mortar to ensure it adheres. Then you lay out your next sheet, comb it out, rinse and repeat, and this would require 2 guys to be able to do it quickly. Contrast this to a guy dipping a paint roller into some red goo and just going hog wild on a floor. The one plus is that once your kerdi is down you can start tiling right away, vs. having to wait with the fluid systems. So now you're setting your 24x24 porcelain tile on the wall, and you're still stuck with having to use unmodified mortars. You can bite the bullet and use the proper modified stuff, but now you don't have a warranted installation. Conveniently they (schluter) sell modified mortars that will work with kerdi, but you can only use their mortars and that's bullshit because there are way better mortars out there to use. Ditra is even worse. You've got your unmodified mortars, but now you also have to trowel the mortar into the little voids 4 different ways to ensure the mortar keys into the little trapeziod voids that hold the tile down. You also have to do this prior to when you start setting the tile, so you're combing out mortar 3 times before your tile is able to be laid down. Also both of them are expensive as gently caress. As a point to point: (all pricing with no markup/taxes) RedGard Per SqFt: ~1.65/SqFt Material - $.45 Labor - ~1.20 (depends on the installation). This is union wages. Schluter Ditra - $6.10 Material - 1.80/SqFt Labor - ~4.30 Kerdi's labor would be slightly less, but the material cost is the same. That's true numbers, by the way. $1.60 a foot with my discount, plus .20 a foot for the mortar to stick it on the wall. The only place we use Ditra or kerdi is Princeton U. I have no idea how Schluter got as entrenched in there as they are, but they accept no substitutions. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 14:17
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socketwrencher posted:This is really interesting, thanks for sharing it. I'm not talking bare studs. When we go in I expect to see taped backer board (be it hardie or durarock). My job starts at the waterproofing, so whatever the carpenters have done doesn't really matter for my accounting. There isn't a second day for redgard. Basically long story short, figuring a standard 3x3 or 4x3 shower, I can get 5 showers a day with one guy using aquadefense or redgard. Using 2 guys I can get 3 a day using kerdi. This is walls and floors by the way. SourKraut posted:The estimator had told me they generally just use Mapei products...They also defaulted the quote to 12"x24" tile for the shower estimate, but said we could use smaller tile if we wanted to. Tile size on the walls is 100% personal preference. I personally like the larger tiles. On the floor, it depends on how much pitch you need. This is where schluter shines with the linear drains they have, you can have a single piece shower floor if you want, because the entire shower pitches to the drain. See sketch 1. The more you need to pitch the smaller your tile needs to go (sketch 3) or you can end up with lippage, unless you can live with a joint going to each corner, (sketch 2). quote:Oh, and one last question. I'd seen some references to using the Laticrete waterproof membrane in the corners/etc., and it can be used with AquaDefense too. Is that something you've seen? The reasoning I saw online is that it's hard to get the liquid membrane into the corner transitions, especially at floors and such, so I'd read where they saturate the membrane with the liquid system, set it after an initial coat, and then once everything has cured, go over with a second coat. Here's the fabric I'd seen mentioned: https://www.contractorsdirect.com/Laticrete-Membrane-Fabric The liquid applied membranes don't really bridge gaps between the wall and floor all that well, so we fabric reinforce those joints. We call them toilet paper rolls (because that's the size they are), and yes we use those all the time. That is the fabric I'm talking about with the 9235 waterproofing system. quote:In this case, the company said they'd be using a PVC liner when re-doing the pan, but I wasn't sure how the liner-to-aquadefense transition works. See sketch 4. Not 100% sure on the system they are using, but generally the pvc pan is behind the backer board and it pretty much creates a redundant shower pan. My tubby rear end is in the office moreso than the field, so this might not be 100% perfect but I'm pretty sure it's correct. 
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May 22, 2020 19:16
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SourKraut posted:Thank you again for the additional useful info! Our floor tiles now are basically 2"x2" squares, sloped toward a central circular drain. I'm assuming it'd be difficult to change the drain location without slab work? I was thinking about a linear drain, but it'd be centered in the shower and need the sides sloping to it. If you have easy access to the plumbing and feel like having a plumber come out to move the drain go nuts but generally in my experience drains tend to stay where they are. You can pitch 2x2 mosaics any which way you want so that’s no problem at all. Generally we start to worry with something over 4”. Regarding the fabric, depending on the size of the gaps they might be able to use a mesh tape. It’s pretty much just providing a structure for the latex to adhere to. If you’re really concerned you can ask them to flood test the pan, which is to dam it up, fill the drain and then fill the whole thing with water and see if it will hold water. If this wasn’t specified prior to your pricing though don’t be surprised if they give you an add because it ends up being lost time. Again I’m coming from a construction/ contractor angle, so I’m looking to streamline my work as much as possible. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 22:52 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 22:46
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Our go to for sealing is Sealer's Choice Gold https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/sealers/aqua-mix-sealer%E2%80%99s-choice-gold.aspx If we're just sealing grout, Aquamix Grout sealer is a bit cheaper https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/sealers/aqua-mix-grout-sealer.aspx With that pebble tile, you might want to use an enhancer: https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/aqua-mix/enhancers/aqua-mix-enrich-n-seal.aspx Pretty much it will make the stone look wet (but not shiny), which can make the colors more vibrant. If you choose to do this, you're going to want to do a mockup first (take a sheet, set it on a scrap piece of backer, grout it, seal it) to make sure you will like the final result. It's a loving bear to get it off if you decide you don't like it. You can check the MSDS sheets on those websites. Ultracolor is already pretty stain resistant so if you would rather not use any of those, you're still probably pretty safe. Shower floors are tricky because of the oils and chemicals that are in soaps and shampoos. Outside of the shower I'd say don't even worry about it. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 14:16
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SourKraut posted:Thanks! I had looked at the Sealer's Choice Gold as an option; I ended up picking up the Miracle 511 H2O-based sealer (https://www.flooranddecor.com/outdoor-installation-materials/miracle-511-h20-water-based-penetrating-sealer-100038405.html?rrec=true). Have you had any experience with it? I can still get the Sealer's Choice Gold since it'll be a few days before I have to apply the sealer. I've used 5.11's Porous Plus and it worked great, but I don't know that one specifically. You should be fine though.
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Jun 4, 2020 11:49
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Spoke with a lawyer today about my retaining wall woes.
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Jun 12, 2020 14:29
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devmd01 posted:drat I wish I didn’t live in the Midwest sometimes, I love mountains. My first thought on seeing the first picture's thumbnail was "holy poo poo, that garage roof is thick as poo poo!" Edit: Like this 
AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jun 25, 2020 |
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Jun 25, 2020 14:02
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Depending on how good your taper was, you shouldn't have a problem. Every sheetrock wall is taped and spackled as part of a standard installation. If you're worried about seeing the joints, sand and respackle if necessary. If you're worried about the difference in color showing, use a primer before you paint.
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Aug 20, 2020 18:09
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Sandwich Anarchist posted:How difficult is it to install a dishwasher into a kitchen that has never had one before? It depends on your access. You need an open 24" cabinet space within 6(?)feet of the drain, a hot water line, and an electric supply. If you have the ability to add those, it should be pretty easy.
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Sep 30, 2020 14:53
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That looks more like a time machine than a shower, so perhaps they can go back to when the house was being built and change the layout.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:35
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What I would do is get whatever you used for the back of the peninsula, rip a 3” or whatever the height of the toe kick is and then just basically build out the toe kick to be even with the tile.
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Jan 16, 2021 21:50
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mutata posted:You obviously have not been introduced to the tile floors in my house which use 2 different types of thinset with wire mesh between them. Where in your house is this? That doesn't sound like 2 types of thinset, it sounds like how you'd do a screed coat. Thin-ish layer of cement and sand with chicken wire imbedded to flatten out (or pitch if it's a shower drain) a floor, and then you can use thinset on top of that. The chicken wire gives the screed coat a structure to bond to. If I had to guess there's either poly or tar paper under the screed coat too. That's a perfectly legit older style of flashing a floor before floor levelers came out, and is still done today. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 15:56
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willroc7 posted:My AC unit outside has been making a loud clicking noise as it appears this little green wire w/a metal eyelet is loose and the fans are hitting it as they go around. It still runs and cools, but is it obvious how I can fix this myself? Do i want to try to attach it to this nearby post with the gorund sticker? Thanks! This should go without saying, but just in case: Please ensure your air conditioner is off before trying to fix that.
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May 27, 2021 12:50
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Yooper posted:Looking to tile my bathroom, about 75 ft2 of flooring total. I've done a few other jobs, used the Schluter Ditra membrane and had good luck with it. On this floor there is 3/4" plywood on 2x10's, with 1/4" lauan glued and stapled with sheet vinyl glued to that. I'm not comfortable putting the Ditra onto the sheet vinyl, even if Schluter says it's OK. You shouldn't need leveler unless your floor is absolutely hosed. What I would do in your place would be to strip the vinyl. Glue and screw the 1/4" denshield on top of the luaun. Tape your seams with mesh tape and thinset. Throw a level on your floor, if it's absolutely hosed, now's the time to put the leveler on there. Ardex has some great stuff if you can find it. Ditra seams like massive overkill for a 75SqFt bathroom floor, but you do you. Kerdi would work just as well in my opinion if you're going for the uncoupling membrane/waterproofing. If you use the schluter stuff, make sure you use their allset mortar on both sides, it's actually really good stuff.
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Jan 5, 2022 13:29
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devicenull posted:Yep, rent it from Home Depot (along with the bit). Make sure you've got all the PPE (glasses, hearing, respirator) You might be able to get it up with just a hammer and chisel, but if your installer did a good job, a chipping gun might be a godsend. Also seconding the above advice re:ppe, but also gloves, especially if it's glazed porcelain. The glaze can be as sharp as a razor blade, and it's trivially easy to slice into your hand while absentmindedly reaching to pick up a piece of the broken tile.
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Apr 29, 2022 12:52
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I think this is my first thread title in 19 years.
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Apr 29, 2022 20:33
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Johnny Truant posted:Thanks for all the advice! My wife uses vinegar and dish soap on our paver path. It works great. 1 oz dish soap to 1 gallon white vinegar, put in a spray bottle and go nuts. It doesn't always kill it completely dead, so they might come back a little later in the season but it's easy enough to reapply.
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May 9, 2022 16:33
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018LGZ04 What about replacing your shower head with something that boosts water pressure? https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-shower-head-for-low-water-pressure/ I did that at my old house where I had absolute poo poo water pressure (The water tower in my neighborhood was mostly below the level of my house) and it worked pretty well. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jul 5, 2022 |
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Jul 5, 2022 13:59
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. I can't speak to the resin, but you can definitely get the same look from the quartz lines such as Cambria, Dal, Ceasarstone, or Silestone (and the plenty of other brands out there)
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Jul 7, 2022 16:46
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H110Hawk posted:I wouldn't have learned that until I had a pot shaped burn in my counter. It never would have occurred to me since quartz = mineral. The quartz crystals in quartz countertops are fine, it's the resin that binds them that has an issue with heat. Anything over about 300 degrees can damage quartz if I remember right. You're also not supposed to use knives directly on it as it can scratch. Same with abrasive cleaners. It is way more stain resistant than natural stone though.
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Jul 8, 2022 00:21
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actionjackson posted:also I was realizing the tile person is not wearing any sort of mask, seems like a good way to get silicosis eventually? It depends on the mortar being used. Some have no silica in them at all.
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Aug 18, 2022 14:44
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DrBouvenstein posted:Anyone have a good recommendation for a supplier/brand of subway tiles? Just your bog-standard, 3"x6" glossy white tiles for a bathroom reno. Not sure what quality differences may or may not exist in the $4-5/sq ft tiles and the $10-15/sq ft tiles. Dal Tile's Color Wheel should be ballpark $2.50/foot. If you tell me where you're at I can try to find you a distributor. Edit: Caught your edit. Dal's would be self spacing, so you wouldn't need shims (still strike lines and have a small can of wedges around just in case, nothing is ever perfect). If it's a man made product, I wouldn't pay much over that. $10-15 better get you stone tiles. If it's in a bathroom, I'd go thin set. Even if it's not in the shower, the room will still have high humidity from the steam. The savings from the mastic to the thinset aren't worth the risk.
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Sep 6, 2022 18:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:I looked on their website and it seems there's a few places near me that stock/sell them, but no official Dal showroom or anything where I can see them in person. If you're doing the install, you may want to consider lightening up your grout joint. The dark grey is going to highlight every slight variation in the joint size.
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Sep 7, 2022 16:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:Apologies for more bathroom tiling questions. Inside the shower, definitely cement board. You'd only need to redguard the non shower walls if you were doing a steam room or you have a habit of pissing on your walls AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Sep 9, 2022 |
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Sep 9, 2022 19:03
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DrBouvenstein posted:Thanks. I guess I'll use greenboard all around, then. Unfortunately with the running bond you’re kind of stuck with whatever your wall dimensions are. If your pattern was stacked you would just shift your pattern over half a tile if you had a cut less than half a tile. It just makes the cut larger without impacting the look. With running bond you’re just stuck. Whatever you shift you’ll end up dealing with on the next course. I would go for the Dutchman for anything more than 2x the grout joint. So you’re not going to drop a 1/8” cut in there but a half inch cut will look way better than a 1/2” grout joint. You can also make up about 3/8” or so by switching what wall gets the tile into the corner. Hopefully that makes sense, if it doesn’t let me know and I’ll sketch something out.
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Sep 10, 2022 15:28
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DrBouvenstein posted:Anyone have a caulk that's a good match for Mapei Pearl Grey unsanded keracolor grout? Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Philly I can tell you exactly where to go, but long story short move away from the big box stores. See if you can find an actual flooring store, like Floor and Decor or Dal Tile, they will almost certainly have it. There's a company called Color Fast that does the color matched caulks for the major manufacturers.
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Sep 16, 2022 15:37
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DrBouvenstein posted:Not anywhere near Philly, BUT I am going to a Daltile location this afternoon to pick up MOST of my tiles, so I'll ask them when I'm there. You're right, the best bet would be to not do those walls. However it's not the end of the world. Make sure you're very clean when you set your top course of tile. It's your call if you want to leave off one row of flat and the bullnose, or just the bullnose. Just make sure it's clean with no mortar on top of the tiles and no mortar clumps on the substrate. If you get any on there while setting it's fine, just make sure you sponge it off so you have a nice perfectly smooth surface when you come back to finish. Regarding grouting: if you're using mapei get Ultracolor grout. That will stay consistent in color regardless of variations in the amount of water, humidity, etc.. that can have an effect on grout, so you'd be able to grout the wall and then the bullnose afterwards. Just make sure you keep the wall clean. Edit:VV your call. It does set up quicker, but if you don't spread more than 1 wall at a time you'd be fine. Your call though. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 18:14
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 23:16 |
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Many companies don’t make their trim in the same place as they do the flat tile anyway so even if everything is available at the same time, there’s not necessarily a guarantee it will match. I can safely say that in 20 years of doing this, I’ve only had issues a couple of times.
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Sep 17, 2022 00:23
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