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D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

BonoMan posted:

Yeah I'm assuming we're talking about, like, Amazon deal of the day $150 Sunjoe pressure washers here.

I got a little sunjoe electric pressure washer on sale for $130 for small jobs like the patio and it works great. I wasn't expecting much and it has exceeded my expectations

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D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Sirotan posted:

Monoprice just emailed me to say the CAT6 cable I bought last year and still haven't gotten around to installing in my house is being recalled due to increased risk of fire spread. Procrastination wins again!


Incredibly, if I had installed it, they are offering to pay to have it all removed and replacement cable re-installed all on their dime. In case you've bought Monoprice brand bulk CAT6 between December 2018 and February 2020, might wanna check out the recall website: https://mpcmrrecall.com/

I've been thinking about getting my house wired for networking. How much of a deal is it? How expensive? Obviously, mileage may vary, but I am going to have to convince the wife.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

FCKGW posted:

Not as bad as electrical, depending on your house. If it’s a single story and you have good enough access to an attic or crawl space, then it’s just drilling holes and dropping in lines. It doesn’t need to be stapled or anything.

Some quotes I’ve seen in the networking thread were about $100 per drop.

Oh that is much more reasonable than I was assuming. We are in a single story with an attic that is surprisingly easy to get around in for an attic.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

If you got 4-5 feet of snow at once like he said happens sometimes wouldn't that preclude a riding lawnmower with a plow? like the snow would be higher than the top of the mower? I'm from the south and don't know much though...

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back.

https://www.rockler.com/shop-by-brand/rev-a-shelf/pull-outs

I literally just brought in a few delivered boxes of these rev-a-shelf pull outs minutes before I read this post. They are great, good quality and very sturdy. We had them at our old rental and we made it a priority to get them now that we bought. In fact, we've been going ham on all types of various organizers throughout the house and garage. Those rag holder thingies posted upthread are very tempting. What other random organizers that people may not know exist does this thread recommend?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

What the gently caress is a sauce drawer? I'm picturing a drawer just filled with loose sauce and some snooty rich person with a ladle scooping it out.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Oooooh ok, we just called the kitchen drawer like that with random poo poo the junk drawer. All kinds of loose knick knacks and batteries.

If I win the lottery I'm gonna do a real rich person's sauce drawer with built in warming.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

I have fireplace questions. Homeownership has been wild so far because I don't know poo poo about poo poo, but have surprisingly been able to accomplish a lot using the internet as a resource. However, when it comes to fire and natural gas and potentially burning down or exploding my house I'm gonna need a goon sanity check.

We have a natural gas fireplace. When we put an offer in and got it inspected the gas line coming into the fireplace did not have a log lighter and was uncapped. I had them cap it for safety. We are finally getting some decently cold weather and want a fire.

First, I wrestled the gas cap off which was a bitch because there is little clearance between it and the floor of the fireplace to get a good grip with a wrench and turn.

Second, I screwed on the universal log lighter I got at lowe's. It says I need to install it with the shutter facing me and the gas holes facing the back which is what I did.

I have a few questions:

With the shutter facing the front there is still some room to turn the log lighter further for a tighter fit. It's pretty solidly on there and not turning that easy but I feel like I should be turning it until I absolutely can't anymore. Unfortunately, if I do that I can get about 3/4ths of a revolution and no matter how much muscle I put into it can't get it to do a full revolution so the shutter is facing frontwards again. See:



So is it better to leave it as is with the shutter facing the front, or now that I have it open enough for a blue flame should I screw the log lighter further in until I can't anymore which would face the shutter towards the back?

Next question. The log lighter instructions aren't very clear on the shutter. I am assuming how I have it on the picture above is fine? Mostly blue flame. Should it be all the way open instead or is the crack I've got good?

Next questions:



This is a different style fireplace than our previous rental, plus it's Texas so we barely use fireplaces and I didn't grow up with one. Is it ok that the chain doesn't hang down all the way and there is about 3/4th inch of clearance between the bottom of the chain and the bottom of the fireplace? I feel like a bunch of ash/coals/debris is going to blow under and out onto the floor? Should there be some kind of lip or the chain be longer?

Also, how do you clean this thing? Our last fireplace had a little box thingy that opened up into the fireplace you swept all the ash into then on the outside wall opened up to empty it outside. This one does not back up to an outside wall and has no such thing. Feels like cleaning it is just gonna end up with ash all over my living room.

Finally, the "logs" that are in there are some kind of stone or something? Are these the kind that can be heated up with the gas flame and hold heat or are they purely decorative? Does such a thing even exist because I feel like it might but I'm not sure? If they are does that mean my fireplace is not made for wood burning? I want flame and cackling.

TLDR: I don't know poo poo about fireplaces somebody help.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

devmd01 posted:

If you don’t know the provenance of your fireplace and what shape it’s in it would probably be a good idea to get a chimney sweep to inspect and clean it to be sure.

It's new as part of a remodel before we bought and I did have a chimney sweep clean the chimney and make sure that was all ready.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Enos Cabell posted:

You're not really burning anything in a gas fireplace, so there isn't any ash to worry about. There is a big difference between wood burning and gas fireplaces.

Actually this brings up a good point. Our last place had the exact same kind of gas setup but it was a wood burning fireplace with a gas lighter and the gas was only used to get the wood started. This one has the same type of gas setup as far as I can tell but maybe it is intended to be a non-wood burning gas fireplace where the gas stays on and heats up the stone "logs"? How do I tell the difference?

Edit: either way I'll check for leaks, thanks for the advice on that. I've emailed the guy we bought it from for more info and if he can't help I'll get an expert out.

D-Pad fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jan 10, 2021

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

We have faux wood laminate flooring and have a soft/spongy spot. Moved in in August. I'm worried it might be a slow leak as it is right next to a wall that has bathroom sinks on the other side. Since we moved in the spot has gotten larger. We had a leak in another area a few months ago and those boards buckled, but these aren't and I can't detect any other signs of water. I know it could just be an uneven area of the sub-flooring but if that was the case would it be slowly expanding over the course of 3-9 months? What's the best way to determine what is going on besides ripping up that area of the floor?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Vim Fuego posted:

IMO you're going to be ripping up the floor eventually, but you could try a moisture detector to confirm there's water before you do



gwrtheyrn posted:

Are you able to take a look at it from underneath from the crawlspace?


No crawlspace. If it's just uneven subfloor in that spot it should be fine to just leave right? Like it won't keep growing forever if the rest of the subfloor is fine. How do moisture detectors work? They can detect moisture through the boards even if the top is dry?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

I saw some photos on FB of some cool concrete staining for outdoor patios. How well does that hold up in the weather and what kind of ballpark are we talking to have somebody do it? We just have a big concrete block for a backyard deck and recently put a ton of money into the rest of the outside and this would go well with it.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Final Blog Entry posted:

Got a picture of what you're talking about? Decorative concrete coatings are a quagmire of specialty products, small local manufacturers, and contractors who all have their own preferred products and techniques. Best bet would be to talk to some people who specialize in it, show them pictures of what you want, and look at pictures of their work. Based on what they're doing/using they can guide you on maintenance and service life, a lot of those systems just need a fresh coat of appropriate concrete sealer every few years to keep them from wearing or breaking down. Depending on the technique and level of prep needed, you may be anywhere from $4-8/sqft or so.

Yeah I was afraid it quagmire like you described. It's a very small porch though so that price sounds drat reasonable.

Here is what I was seeing:





And here is the porch:



Edit: One more question: You can see the two whiter patches on the right where foundation work was done recently and on the left you can just barely see the new concrete wraparound step we had put in when we got the rest of the yard fixed up. Is the different ages/texture/weathering of the different concrete going to affect how any staining looks and make it uneven or something like that?

D-Pad fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Aug 24, 2021

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

BigFactory posted:


Cool tub though

We love it! We have a very small backyard so the options were limited. Our kids are 2 and 6 so it's the perfect size for them and our 2 year old can stand up in it. Maintenance has been very easy because it is so small. You can also buy a heater for it so it doubles as a hot tub.

I was against it at first but I'm glad my wife talked me into it.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

What in the gently caress. Until I read your replies I've never even noticed that our bricks look like that and now I can't unsee it. I guess I've only looked at our House but never our house? It looks more normal as a whole from further away. Up close it looks like the bricks have had some kind of white paint applied to them? What the hell is this?





D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So the window box/frame/whatever you call it has a big crack starting halfway up that runs up to below the roof and then snakes around the side.

Is this just a matter of buying some caulk and sealing it all up or is this a more serious problem that needs a professional to look at? If it just needs to be sealed what kind of caulk?





This corner of the house recently had some foundation movement and had work done to level it out so I'm assuming it's from stress from either the initial imbalance or releveling.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

The Nest protect just alarms and doesn't show levels (unless they have a new version that does) FYI

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

I spoke with a solar guy recently because we wanted to explore the option and I told him that I wanted a battery that the solar system could charge for a backup in case of power failure during non-peak hours and he pretty much told me that isn't possible and that it's a few years out. I was kind of confused and didn't push him on it because I don't see why it wouldn't be? Like I would understand if its too expensive or something like that but he really was just straight saying "you can't do that"

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So just moved into a new house and my office has two windows that get direct afternoon sun and it gets pretty warm. In Texas and we've had 80 degree weather lately so I can only imagine it will be brutal in the summer. I put up some basic curtains but I am looking for other options that are short of replacing the windows (we will do this but probably not for a couple of years). Are there like insulated curtains or something made for this kind of purpose? Are there tint options of some sort for house windows? I don't know jack poo poo about this stuff so I am just trying to figure out what the options are and then I can do some research and quoting and make a decision.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So new house has tankless water heaters. Two of them actually and we aren't really sure why they put two in instead of just one. Anyway when taking a shower the water gets hot for about 45 seconds then will slowly go to lukewarm or even cold for a little while then go back to hot and repeat despite the handle never being moved. Any ideas what's causing this?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Rat Poisson posted:

We have the same issue. It seems to be an issue of your desired temperature at the shower valve leading to a slow enough flow rate of hot water that the heater turns itself off because it drops below the minimum gallons-per-minute flow threshold that the heater needs to remain on. Our extremely dumb solution is to leave the bathroom sink hot water tap slightly open while showering. Then between the sink and the shower we’re using enough hot water volume to keep the heater constantly on and get a stable temperature in the shower. It’s my least favorite aspect of this tankless heater that we inherited with the house. It’s probably exacerbated by having a low-flow shower head in our shower.

Gonna try this thanks.

Elem7 posted:

How cold is the water as it comes into your house? Tankless heaters have a limit to how much heat they can put into water and the colder it starts out the less flow they can handle. If you're in the north and you want multiple people to be able to take a shower at the same time 1 tankless heater may not be able to provide enough hot water flow, so you use 2.

I'm in Texas so I don't think that is it.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

GlyphGryph posted:

The primary goals were not aesthetic. In fact I expected it would look worse? I was just fine with that. Thats why I was trying to specify I'm not looking for a vaulted/cathedral style change.

They were:
- I wanted to get access to that open space for some specific house projects that will require significantly more ceiling space than I have right now (but joists and beams shouldn't be a problem). I guess most of those are ultimately aesthetic, but the point of the ceiling changes would be to enable them rather than to look good itself. At least one of them is functional though. (THE CAT WALKWAYS AND TUNNELS MUST EXTEND HIGHER! HIGHER!)
- I wanted to set up an elevated but far more easily accessible loft area over the bedrooms, to create more usable (if limited) space in the house.
- I wanted direct access to the beams and joists for other projects that involve a lot of hanging poo poo (and moving poo poo that is hanging) from the ceiling that I want significantly more secured than putting some screws into it from below

Maybe I can still get at least one of those use cases some other way? I don't know.

Please stop discouraging OP. I'm super excited to see groverhause sex/cat dungeon 2.0

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So I went to open a window in my office in the new house and apparently somebody nailed it shut:




Why would someone do this? How do I remove it when I can't even see the head of the nail from the outside (see 2nd pic). I don't know poo poo about windows but somebody help me out here.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

This got skipped over in groverceiling chat. Anybody able to help?

D-Pad posted:

So I went to open a window in my office in the new house and apparently somebody nailed it shut:




Why would someone do this? How do I remove it when I can't even see the head of the nail from the outside (see 2nd pic). I don't know poo poo about windows but somebody help me out here.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Hieronymous Alloy posted:

You could try just yanking with pliers from the outside but that might cause more damage.

Yeah the thing is though if you look at the 2nd picture the nail head isn't even accessible. Like it looks like you'd have to take the window off/apart to even access it. It's weird af. Like even if I hammered from the end sticking out the nail doesn't have anywhere to go because the head is behind window stuff.

GlyphGryph posted:

I saw the window posts, I just don't actually understand what's going on in it.

Same lol

KoRMaK posted:

my guess is that the reasons for why it was nailed shut will start to reveal themselves once you get the nail out

I am in touch with the previous owners so I just shot him a text to ask what the reasoning behind it was.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

This drain/pipe thingy the washer drains into has an unholy sewage type smell coming from it. Can I just pour bleach down it or does it need a plumber to come clean it out or something? How do I fix this?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Has it always been like this? It might be that there's no P-trap, which would require a plumber to install one. A P-trap is a U-shaped section of pipe that constantly keeps some water at the bottom of the U, which prevents sewer gases from flowing into the home.

It might also be that there is a P-trap, but it's sprung a leak. That would allow the water to drain out, allowing sewer gases in.

We've only been in the house a few weeks and it's not constant but frequent, seems to die down when we have been running the washer. Anyway it sounds like it's gonna need a plumber and is not a "pour bleach down the drain" situation so I'll get somebody out.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

slidebite posted:

I noticed this AM that my hot water tank isn't putting out what it used to. It's about 8ish years old. 48 US gallon, natural gas. To work it a bit, I took a bath this evening and I actually ran out of hot water. I've never had that happen before, even when doing laundry or dishes. So yeah, something is not right.

I'm going to drain it out tomorrow and see what the sediment situation is like, but I can't help but think I might be in the market soon even though it's not super old, but I guess 8 years old isn't insane to have it begin to have issues either. :shrug:

Is there a quality go-to brand? Should I consider tankless?

I have a plumber buddy that can probably do a swap for me if I buy one on my own.

I don't know poo poo about poo poo when it comes to any of this but I've lived in two houses with tankless and countless with tanks and I enjoyed the tankless more. I'm a big fan of long rear end steaming hot showers and it's nice not to have a time limit especially when other things involving hot water are going on in the house.

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D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

So we just switched from septic to city sewer and the project finished two weeks ago. As part of that a grinder pump was put in and the alarm just started going off. We've barely been using any water today. I've silenced the alarm but the light is still on so it isn't clearing up. What's the next step here? Should I hit that pump run button or switch to "hand" on the switch? We've had heavy rain the last few days so could it be an issue related to that? It's a Sunday and my plumber isn't answering and I don't know what my next steps should be besides not use water until it is fixed but I need to bathe my children tonight etc.

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