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swickles
Aug 21, 2006

I guess that I don't need that though
Now you're just some QB that I used to know

MarcusSA posted:

I need a new washer and dryer. I’m not in a huge rush but what brands should I be looking at? The current one is Samsung and kinda sucks.

Also does homedepot or lowes take the old ones away? They are on the second floor and I can’t be hosed to move them myself.

Lowe's, Best Buy, and Home Depot all charge for haul away, starting at like $50, but they usually add a fee for flights of stairs. If you have Costco, go through them. They have free delivery and installation, plus free 2 year warranties (other places offer them for 100 bucks-ish). Its honestly worth the cost of membership.

Try to get a real basic washer, the smarter it is the more likely it is to fail in some way.

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Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


Costs more but yes they'll take away the old ones, definitely tell the rep at time of sale

Edit: seconding Costco, I've had to have service for a stove before and it was extremely easy through them

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

MarcusSA posted:

I need a new washer and dryer. I’m not in a huge rush but what brands should I be looking at? The current one is Samsung and kinda sucks.

Also does homedepot or lowes take the old ones away? They are on the second floor and I can’t be hosed to move them myself.

I kinda like my dumb ol dryer. Its the whirpool thats sold under 20 other brands. You can find them "rebuilt" on craigslist/facebook marketplace for dirt cheap and theres not much inside them to break. That said it is louder than I'd like. I added some amazon dynamat and it helped a bit.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
From family and friend experiences I would generally avoid almost all samsung appliances. After personal experience I'm not too big of a fan of LG either, especially their washing machines. I have an LG machine and the amount of times Ive needed to fix it is shocking at least once or twice per year. Drain pumps seem to be made out of hopes and dreams. Just my 2¢.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Potato Salad posted:

Costs more but yes they'll take away the old ones, definitely tell the rep at time of sale

Edit: seconding Costco, I've had to have service for a stove before and it was extremely easy through them

I did Costco and it was fine, except when they call to schedule, keep reminding them that they're doing a haul-away as well. Even then, expect them to forget to tell the crew and have to reschedule by a day or two as a result. The folks on the ground did a great job, but nobody told them poo poo from corporate. Also, they sent far too many people, so consider that for how you want to handle tips. On my rescheduled day for washer+dryer install + haul-away, two trucks and 9 people showed up.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

I've had LG washer and dryers in my last few places without problem. My new place sellers put in the cheapest poo poo they could find. The noise and even just lack of end of cycle buzzer tells me that you should not buy the cheapest.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Thanks I’ll check out Costco then! I’m definitely willing to pay extra for haul away.

I had an LG one before and it was ok? I’m just not sure going with them again is the best.

At this rate I’m willing to pay more for a decent washer because I want it to last.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

MarcusSA posted:

I need a new washer and dryer. I’m not in a huge rush but what brands should I be looking at? The current one is Samsung and kinda sucks.

Also does homedepot or lowes take the old ones away? They are on the second floor and I can’t be hosed to move them myself.

More sign-tapping

quote:

I missed Washer/Dryer chat a page or three back, but I've went deep down the rabbit hole of Washing Machines and come out the other end with what I feel actually the most correct option for Washing Machines:

Maytag MVWP575GW

For a lot of reasons, this thing kicks rear end: It's simple, the components are basically a tier above anything else. It's not a dogshit Samsung or LG ordeal. It's quite repairable. It has a 10 year warranty on basically everything. I've had it in my house for 4 years now without issues and I'm pretty happy that I spent the time understanding Washing Machines.

Note, that there is a model 576. I know nothing about the 576's components or it's build process, but it seems like that it's a 'quality cut down' of the 575. Some people still offer the 576 with a 10 year warranty, but Lowe's services the warranty on the 576 at just 1 year which is a big red flag.

They are getting hard to find and have been formally replaced by the MVWP585GW, which also has a sister model of the 586. Historically, the warranty terms were different between the *5 and the *6, and that seems to be the case again, but this time favoring the *6 - this is worth looking into more seriously. I have no idea what the build difference is between the 585 and the 575, but light research suggests they are similar (which is a good thing).

So the modern answer might actually be: Maytag MVWP586GW

Canine Blues Arooo fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 22, 2024

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

More sign-tapping

They are getting hard to find and have been formally replaced by the MVWP585GW, which also has a sister model of the 586. Historically, the warranty terms were different between the *5 and the *6, and that seems to be the case again, but this time favoring the *6 - this is worth looking into more seriously. I have no idea what the build difference is between the 585 and the 575, but light research suggests they are similar (which is a good thing).

Thanks!!

Edit: holy poo poo this is perfect

MarcusSA fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Apr 22, 2024

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


We got an Electrolux ELFW7637AW almost a year ago and we've used the hell out of it (at least one load a day, sometimes multiple) with zero trouble.

Can't give a long term testimonial but it does clean much much better than the GE top loader that came with the house, dries throughly in spin, and doesn't have a grody door seal.

Also very quiet.

Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Apr 22, 2024

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

StormDrain posted:

Screw the brush plate (white) directly into the existing mud ring that is installed. Apply face plate. Ditch the black plastic remodel mounting ring.

Or drill new holes in the existing ring. It's low voltage, so it's fine. I'd guess 99% of cable tv cords installed by the cable company don't even have a mud ring, just screwed right to the drywall.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

More sign-tapping

They are getting hard to find and have been formally replaced by the MVWP585GW, which also has a sister model of the 586. Historically, the warranty terms were different between the *5 and the *6, and that seems to be the case again, but this time favoring the *6 - this is worth looking into more seriously. I have no idea what the build difference is between the 585 and the 575, but light research suggests they are similar (which is a good thing).

So the modern answer might actually be: Maytag MVWP586GW

I’m probably gonna get this one because it’s exactly what I want but did you get the matching dryer with it? My dryer is ok I guess but I wouldn’t mind something more basic at this point.

Hotel Kpro
Feb 24, 2011

owls don't go to school
Dinosaur Gum

devicenull posted:

Or drill new holes in the existing ring. It's low voltage, so it's fine. I'd guess 99% of cable tv cords installed by the cable company don't even have a mud ring, just screwed right to the drywall.

I figured it out, I think. I was originally thinking the long screws went on the outer screw holes and I'd be drilling into drywall to make it work, but doing it with the short screws on the drywall part makes way more sense. It's so simple and I couldn't see it

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

MarcusSA posted:

I’m probably gonna get this one because it’s exactly what I want but did you get the matching dryer with it? My dryer is ok I guess but I wouldn’t mind something more basic at this point.

This is a matching dryer with it that generally follows the same ideas. Simple, repairable, built well, etc.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

First look at my thermostat wiring I found the C-wire unused at the thermostat end, hooked that up and it didn't work. Went and looked at the furnace, saw the C wire was connected to control panel, jiggled wires, tried again and it still didn't work. Put the project back into queue for later. Was looking at it again last night and realized that the C wire connected to control panel was from a diff wire bundle. Found the correct wire and the C cable wasn't connected, hooked that up and my smart thermostat is working!

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
It's nice that the PO leaves little puzzles for you. Why do things right?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It took me 25-years to sort my “Neverhood” house.

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

I also bought a Leviton timer switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. There are 2 other light switches but the older toggle style. So I bought a 10 pack of Leviton rocker switches. Didn't notice until I went to install them that they say Leviton across the bottom of the rocker. Is this normal? Not sure if I should care about this.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Question on windows. Do mine need insulation behind the trim?

I’m taking the trim off my bathroom windows to paint them and noticed a 1” gap between drywall and the window frame.

Should I fill this with spray foam for windows?



Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yes, this is where windows are supposed to (and often aren't) insulated. It make a huge difference.

You want to use the blue spray foam - low expansion. The regular or high ex stuff will bend the window frames and make it so you can't operate them.

Bonus point for caulking your trim once that gets put on.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Motronic posted:

Yes, this is where windows are supposed to (and often aren't) insulated. It make a huge difference.

You want to use the blue spray foam - low expansion. The regular or high ex stuff will bend the window frames and make it so you can't operate them.

Bonus point for caulking your trim once that gets put on.

Thanks. I’ve felt cold air around lots of the windows and figured they might need replaced. I’m betting since this window isn’t insulated, the rest aren’t either.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


phosdex posted:

I also bought a Leviton timer switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. There are 2 other light switches but the older toggle style. So I bought a 10 pack of Leviton rocker switches. Didn't notice until I went to install them that they say Leviton across the bottom of the rocker. Is this normal? Not sure if I should care about this.

Leviton and Lutron mark the front of their decorator style switches, Eaton does not.

I use Eaton. I am a bit of a weirdo and try to keep visible branding to a minimum, but to be honest I just find Eaton's back clamp design a little less finicky than the others.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Uh, this is behind some bedroom trim.





Looks like these things are long dead, but wtf is it?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

How big are they?

I'm not saying this is what they are - emphatically saying this because i'm not a bug doctor or anything - but they kinda look like termite mud tubes.

Can you get a good pic of any of the dead ones?

edit: little winged guy in the lower right of that formation kinda looks like a termite swarmer to me, but again not an expert.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Cyrano4747 posted:

How big are they?

I'm not saying this is what they are - emphatically saying this because i'm not a bug doctor or anything - but they kinda look like termite mud tubes.

Can you get a good pic of any of the dead ones?

edit: little winged guy in the lower right of that formation kinda looks like a termite swarmer to me, but again not an expert.

Maybe 1/4”



The only pics I’m seeing online of termite mud tubes are brown. This is definitely white. Like they made a nest out of joint compound or other. The long wings seem like a swarmer but the face is too decayed to make anything else out. Maybe just ants? I dunno.

nwin fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Apr 24, 2024

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

Shifty Pony posted:

Leviton and Lutron mark the front of their decorator style switches, Eaton does not.

I use Eaton. I am a bit of a weirdo and try to keep visible branding to a minimum, but to be honest I just find Eaton's back clamp design a little less finicky than the others.

Thanks, the branding is annoying me so I'm going to return these levitons and go get eatons.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

nwin posted:

Uh, this is behind some bedroom trim.





Looks like these things are long dead, but wtf is it?

They look like mud dauber nests to me. What's the backside look like?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

SpartanIvy posted:

They look like mud dauber nests to me. What's the backside look like?

Stucco? Closest thing I can think of.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



nwin posted:

Uh, this is behind some bedroom trim.





Looks like these things are long dead, but wtf is it?

Mud daubers.

Go outside, get down under the window, and look up. Guarantee you have a gap there.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Going on a trip tomorrow for a week. I’m sure you can guess where this is going.

I’ve had 2 previous leaks that were pretty major but were fixed. The plumber said the pipes are pretty lovely so I’m going to need a re pipe.

He did a re route downstairs for a smaller part and it sounds like it’s leaking in the exact same place. I don’t think he’s gonna be able to make it out today so just gonna have to shut the water off when I’m not using it and leave it off when I go on my trip tomorrow.

Luckily I started saving up last year when he said I’m gonna need a re pipe but it’s gonna be an 18k job.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

MarcusSA posted:

Going on a trip tomorrow for a week. I’m sure you can guess where this is going.

I’ve had 2 previous leaks that were pretty major but were fixed. The plumber said the pipes are pretty lovely so I’m going to need a re pipe.

He did a re route downstairs for a smaller part and it sounds like it’s leaking in the exact same place. I don’t think he’s gonna be able to make it out today so just gonna have to shut the water off when I’m not using it and leave it off when I go on my trip tomorrow.

Luckily I started saving up last year when he said I’m gonna need a re pipe but it’s gonna be an 18k job.

Get a couple of quotes. When you say "re-pipe" what are you talking about? Replacing all the pipes inside the house, replacing pipes in the slab, etc? The location of the pipes is going to matter a lot. I'd also consider asking for quotes where you don't require them to repair the walls when they're done, assuming that's part of your current 18k quote. If you're comfortable patching dry wall and don't mind living with open walls for a bit and dealing with a kinda lovely job, it can save some bucks.

Earlier this year we had a somewhat similar issue, only in our case all our pipes were located in the slab (thanks, 1950s!). There were a few options, some of them eye wateringly expensive, but the one we went with was to re-pipe the house with PEX but route it all through the attic. The existing copper line was capped and abandoned in the slab and the PEX run through the walls. Since it was flexible they had to do a lot less dry wall tearing up than I feared, it was kind of like running electrical in that regard. Since I was also asking just for the plumbing work and didn't make them fix the walls I was able to get a bit off as well. The quote we went with was a bit less than half of what you're talking.

Hopefully something similar can be worked out for you, and you're not living in some area where trades are expensive as gently caress.

raggedphoto
May 10, 2008

I'd like to shoot you

phosdex posted:

Thanks, the branding is annoying me so I'm going to return these levitons and go get eatons.

I didn’t know there was branding on mine until it was too late to return them, I really don’t like it. It’s a light switch why the f does it need to be branded?

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Did the first half of a home improvement project today (putting in sliding doors for my bathroom shelving) and despite my expectations, it went smoothly. I wonder what possessed this haunted house to finally let me win one.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Cyrano4747 posted:

Get a couple of quotes. When you say "re-pipe" what are you talking about? Replacing all the pipes inside the house, replacing pipes in the slab, etc? The location of the pipes is going to matter a lot. I'd also consider asking for quotes where you don't require them to repair the walls when they're done, assuming that's part of your current 18k quote. If you're comfortable patching dry wall and don't mind living with open walls for a bit and dealing with a kinda lovely job, it can save some bucks.

Earlier this year we had a somewhat similar issue, only in our case all our pipes were located in the slab (thanks, 1950s!). There were a few options, some of them eye wateringly expensive, but the one we went with was to re-pipe the house with PEX but route it all through the attic. The existing copper line was capped and abandoned in the slab and the PEX run through the walls. Since it was flexible they had to do a lot less dry wall tearing up than I feared, it was kind of like running electrical in that regard. Since I was also asking just for the plumbing work and didn't make them fix the walls I was able to get a bit off as well. The quote we went with was a bit less than half of what you're talking.

Hopefully something similar can be worked out for you, and you're not living in some area where trades are expensive as gently caress.

Yeah when I say re pipe I mean everything needs to go and stuff needs to be routed around the slab. The house was built in 2003 but they used the cheapest crappiest imported copper they could find and nearly everyone in the development has had issues ranging from minor to having to spend months out of the house while repairs are done.

I'm in Los Angeles and everyone in the neighborhood I've spoken with has all paid about 15-18k with some people getting quotes of 30k.

I'm really not sure about the PEX but I do know its cheaper but I've heard stories about rodents chewing on it.

The water is just going to be off till I get back and I can deal with it.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

MarcusSA posted:


I'm in Los Angeles and everyone in the neighborhood I've spoken with has all paid about 15-18k with some people getting quotes of 30k.

I’m in a decent sized 18 hour city and got a 2500sqft/2 bath repiped through attic and water heater replaced for <$6k this year incl drywall but not paint. $15k is lol money but LA is an lol place.

Hell for $15k I’d prob DIY, that’s months of work. In dreamworld I’d take a month of unpaid leave, do the job over a week and gently caress off to Hawaii for a few weeks.

CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 24, 2024

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
You guys did right by me with the dishwasher recommendation, the Bosch is working great ( the user interface is a bit fiddly, but its functioning super well).

Does anyone have suggestions on chainsaws? I've got several trees that fell across the trails behind my house over the winter, and I want to get them cleared out so the neighbourhood can use them again. Ive got an electric plug-in chainsaw that let me clear the closer ones, but it wont reach the rest unless I start daisy chaining abdurd numbers of extension cords - and even then, its a small light chainsaw that isnt really suited for this type of work.

I know nothing about chainsaws beyond my experience with this one, so I don't even know what I should be looking for really.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

GlyphGryph posted:

You guys did right by me with the dishwasher recommendation, the Bosch is working great ( the user interface is a bit fiddly, but its functioning super well).

Does anyone have suggestions on chainsaws? I've got several trees that fell across the trails behind my house over the winter, and I want to get them cleared out so the neighbourhood can use them again. Ive got an electric plug-in chainsaw that let me clear the closer ones, but it wont reach the rest unless I start daisy chaining abdurd numbers of extension cords - and even then, its a small light chainsaw that isnt really suited for this type of work.

I know nothing about chainsaws beyond my experience with this one, so I don't even know what I should be looking for really.

The tools thread had a recent discussion of chainsaws, starting here.

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


It's about how much of a beating can the chainsaw take since it's never in a good environment. And how much do you use it (eg, leaving it sitting for too long unused, etc) which leads to repairablity of it.

Generally you'll find the quality brands are sold at the small engine places (eg Stihl, Husqvarna) as those places will do repairs/tune-ups on them. Nothing like forgetting to put stabilizer in it and parking the saw on the shelf for a season.

It also worthwhile to get a chain sharpener for the unit at the same time. Sharp chains cut better.

Oh, many chainsaws (aka small engines) run better with non-ethanol blended gas, so keep that in mind.

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


Never in my life have I moved a fridge anywhere near as heavy as the Samsung dual evaporator fridge I just got slightly used today. What the gently caress are they putting in there, iron shot?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Potato Salad posted:

Never in my life have I moved a fridge anywhere near as heavy as the Samsung dual evaporator fridge I just got slightly used today. What the gently caress are they putting in there, iron shot?

If "dual evaporator" means two complete sealed systems (like subzeros) that makes a lot of sense. They are putting two sealed systems into them as well as more of everything else.

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