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My household is desperate to convert some shaded parking spots that are unsupported lawn to grid-supported lawn. I've put together a proposal that we dig in the grid pavers and fill them with seed/existing dirt / topsoil / manure -- a typical lawn restoration job with some light excavation, leveling, and compacting of subgrade included in the middle. Where I come to you for advice concerns about half of the household desiring to grow clover in these spots, rather than using grass. I don't know whether clover can survive being parked on by *checks notes* cars, which are notorious for weighing more than a dog or humans. A car also loiters longer than a car or dog, but it has been surprising how well unsupported grass has been surviving with only a few hours of direct sun each day. Go figure. Okay, so I've computed the nominal ground pressure of cars in my multifamily household with posterboard and a sharpie. The 4Runner exerts 26psi, my Clarity EV 35ish. Prius wasn't around but with its narrow tires, its probably on the higher end of the scale. The Outback isn't going to be back for a while, and the Accord 2003 is probably near the nominal 30psi for automobiles. A subgrade of dirt (Georgia red clay) compressed beyond 100psi ought to support the grid, even with pressure concentrated 2x-3x on them per the size of the holes cut in various brands of geostabilizing hexagonal paving grids sold (supposedly, at least) for the purpose of driveways and parking spots. The ease with which I can crush a clover's stem with my fingers has me concerned about filling the plastic grids to the top -- it would probably be best that I leave them underfilled by a quarter inch, just so the clover doesn't get ultrasquished when parked upon. I am about to purchase some sample grids from various vendors so I can test driving and parking on them with various amount of fill -- see which I can beat the poo poo out of without breaking them. I would personally prefer to install grass, but (1) I do kinda want to see if clover works (2) its a shaded area that already has a bunch of clover. Every time I leave something on the ground over there for a few days, the clover doesn't give a poo poo about the total darkness it has been subjected to. I think my challenge is mostly a structural one. I can default to grass, but exploring clover seems interesting, especially if I can structurally support a car above it on hard grid without commuting much pressure into the topsoil itself. I suppose I'm committing the very scary act of opening myself up to goons on feedback on a potential home-related project, but it is probably best to get that out of the way NOW rather than do whatever the lawncare equivalent of cutting into my bathroom's floor joists or insulating my staircase might be. There are technical specs and cad files for my likeliest candidate for the web pavers here: https://vodaland-usa.com/products/grass-driveway-grid?variant=39987555467353 Going through these specs....I mean, poo poo, if these are anywhere close to accurate, I should be able to do this by treating the pavers as unfilled for the purpose of the subgrade design for the medium-weight dirt installation specification provided.  Dig down a bit, check leveling and depth with a grid of stakes and lines, compress the everliving gently caress out of the subgrade, make sure it tests to 100psi -- poo poo why not 150 psi -- install a gravel base, compact the everliving gently caress out of that too, place the grid, add dirt/topsoil/manure/seed mix, straw it and wait a month Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Mar 12, 2024 |
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Mar 12, 2024 19:50
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The Top G posted:I’m planning on installing underground pop-up drain emitters to get rid of the downspout extensions. Are the catch basins seen at the start and end of the run here absolutely necessary? Oh poo poo, I can actually contribute. I know this was an old post and the poster is banned for whatever reason, but the catch basins are important for giving the water a chance to utilize the pipe to the rated flow at whatever grade you installed it. Specifically, they prevent air from trying to flow up the pipe grade while it is at or near highest rated flow, which would reduce the cross section of flow and also produce gurgling that may interrupt flow. Its about whether you compute that the pipe will need its full rated flow at your installed grade in your worst storms, or if you're happy with 1/2 - 2/3s of that amount, depending on your grade.
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Mar 12, 2024 20:05
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Welp, I'm glad the guy who has been taking care of the pond for a few years is moving out, but now I gotta learn good pond care in his stead. Obviously, first things first I need to cut bait on the equipment that's not working anymore and learn how to maintain the currently working equipment. There's also a half aborted little trench to the left of this that's intended to divert surface runoff away from the pond. I'm initially thinking that I'll complete that trench -- 4 ish inches deep -- and just line it with some of the ample rocks that are all over around here. That, or get some tall plastic edging (edging would probably erode out though). Time to attack YouTube's algorithm and see if any useful information can be squeezed out of it regarding pond care. Naturally, I'd prefer not to have this drat thing but removing it isn't an option; the koi are quite stunningly large and the family is attached. Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Mar 14, 2024 |
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Mar 14, 2024 00:58
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devmd01 posted:Can’t complain about free sod, beats waiting on grass seed for the construction affected area of the yard. Most importantly I can no longer see dirt from the inside of the house. Anything stopping you from placing dirt/manure/seed/straw in the remaining bare areas?
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Apr 26, 2024 13:50
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