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If you do decide to get a battery powered yard tool, consider whether it makes sense to get one in a battery ecosystem for other power tools if you intend to do home repairs. As a side note, the knock-off 7ah 20/60v battery I got for my new DeWalt chainsaw handles my whole yard (45 min) of trimming and edging in my string trimmer with plenty to spare.
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May 15, 2020 17:25
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If it's on a slope and holding back any soil at all, I would suggest at least a minimum of engineering to stabilize and tie it to get ground, especially if you live somewhere with freezing temperatures. Lest you become another "what can I do about this crumbling retention wall" post in DIY.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:32
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Why don't you let the children play on those swings? 
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Aug 8, 2020 02:10
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Everyone I've talked to who had a subcompact with a loader thinking it's a "do-all" has regrets. Granted, that's not including snow removal cause we don't get that. But my impression is that they're a bit too heavy and cumbersome to mow in a yard that's landscaped, and too light for pushing much dirt with the loader (which has a very limited lift rating). Maybe if you're running a bunch of PTO driven attachments. Seems like a very expensive machine just for snow removal though.
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Aug 20, 2020 14:24
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Motronic posted:
Yeah. Mine usually stays on the tractor, except for putting out hay bales. It is endlessly handy. 
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Aug 20, 2020 16:44
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Motronic posted:Where it your 3rd function valve control on that? Doesn't look like it's on the loader stick, but that might just be the picture. It's electric over hydraulic. There's a button on the joystick which controls a diverter valve on the loader curl/dump lines. Press and hold to swap the diverter. Curl/dump becomes open/close. So you can't curl and operate the grab at exactly the same time, but switching back and forth is near instant. I'm pretty happy with the setup, keeps everything one handed without having to come off the joystick.  
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Aug 20, 2020 19:21
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So I did some quick research, and sure enough none of the kits come with anything that looked like mine. I finally found a guy who added exactly the same thing to his Kubota. Apparently it's a standard aftermarket automotive shift knob with thumb button for nitrous, which you can get with any size thread adapter.
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Aug 20, 2020 20:12
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Putting this here to share my pain. One of the previous owners of my property owned a dump truck, and was a big proponent of dumping all sorts of poo poo in the woods. The same woods that have a trail, that would be a real nice walk except for the piles of poo poo by them. I've been slowly working on it over the past couple years, already moving what was probably near a 14 yard dump load of asphalt shingles, house garbage, rotten wood, etc that was in a very large pile. About a month ago I started on two piles of bricks. Little did I know that these piles extended in some places two or three layers into the ground. They are a mix of brand new bricks (some even match the house) with busted bricks and blocks no good for anything but fill. I have no plans to keep piles of junk, so I hand sorted them and put the broken stuff in my 2 yd dumpster, one loader bucket per week. The result of my madness. Some like the cinder block will get used for *farm things* and maybe I'll use some for a fire pit. No idea what to do with the rest.  As a side note, something I've noticed is that every home owner wishes they had heavy equipment to play with. I hear it every time we pull up somewhere at work with an excavator or whatever ("I need to borrow that for about a week!  "). But in reality, it seems like when someone actually has unlimited access to equipment they use it to make a big drat mess. 
angryrobots fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Aug 24, 2020 |
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Aug 24, 2020 03:45
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Hexigrammus posted:Bit late, but I'll throw in my $0.02cdn anyway. I love me some SCUTs. Not sure what made me think of this effortpost, but quoting to give it a new page after getting lost in grasschat. I still wouldn't want a machine that requires unique attachments, but I appreciate the info. Same (well, one) reason I've stayed away from JD stuff despite them being the only local dealer.
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Aug 27, 2020 02:17
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CommonShore posted:Are attachments for most other major brands interchangeable? I don't know about SCUTs, which from the post I quoted seem to mostly be unique in their attachments. In the case of larger tractors, a real handy thing to have is a skid steer style quick attach loader. There's a universal type which allows you to buy attachments from any maker, and then there's JD's type that isn't interchangeable. Their green attachments are not competitively priced. Many people will get an adapter to use non-JD stuff, but that's a heavy steel thing that further reduces your lifting capacity. So that annoys me, and when I was shopping their sales rep couldn't say whether a 3038 (one of the common models of JD compact tractor they advertise in a package with attachments) would pick up a 4' hay bale. "Maybe on the 3 point hitch" was the exact quote iirc - which isn't very helpful to me. He said I needed a ~50 HP tractor in the neighborhood of $50k to buy new, when I walked in looking at a package deal that was under $20k. They do make good stuff that lasts, just comes down to your budget and what capabilities you need. Friend of mine bought a 3038 with no loader just to run a finish mower, and for that it's perfect and competitively priced.
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Aug 27, 2020 04:17
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Double post - to put the John Deere compact tractor loader capacity in context, the similarly sized 25hp New Holland I bought instead, lifts the hay and stacks 3 high with no complaints .
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Aug 27, 2020 04:51
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It doesn't look very worn out. Also I need it when you're finished.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:02
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Lol, well I'm pretty sure that was a quick coupler bucket that was... Not coupled. Motronic's appears to be a regular pinned bucket. The pins are supposed to be a softer steel than the bearing surface, but they will wallow eventually if you run it too long with loose pins. All ours at work are garbage. I was backfilling a trench today between two houses, and had to account for how much the bucket would tilt when side sweeping dirt off the grass.  Anyway, what kind is it? How many hours?
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Aug 29, 2020 02:40
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I guess they don't make it anymore, but the John Deere 110 had a pretty neat setup for swapping the backhoe for a 3PH. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsGiQ120Pp4
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Aug 29, 2020 05:30
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One thing about trenchers is they don't love rocks or tree roots. Smaller the machine, the smaller the rocks it can throw, or roots it can cut without getting hung up. Also the ground needs to be relatively clear and level(ish) for a smaller model. Just mentioning this since I'm not sure what RDB means by "rough terrain". I'd also want both for 3000', unless I was sure the trencher would not run into issues. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 15:37
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rdb posted:I bought 95 acres. House is going near the middle, 100’ higher than the road. By rough, I mean its uphill, and it will also go across a hill. Its all old pasture and hay ground, 5’ of topsoil before it starts to hit the rocky layer. I don’t think roots will be an issue because its been open for the last 100 years. I worry about tipping a mini ex on the hillside because its narrow and tall. The hill has been terraced for waterways to collect runoff into a pond. The pond has gravity fed hydrants connected to it, but where the water utility is willing to put the meter that wont be a problem provided I run straight back and over. I also have an RV site elsewhere that needs water line. I already know I will need a booster pump to reach the home site. First off, congrats on the property . It needs a thread imo. But yikes, 100' uphill! I would at least talk to a local well driller who's been established in your area for some time, before you completely rule it out. Not discounting your neighbor's advice, but they may have picked the wrong driller. Or they may advise on treating it. I'm no plumbing expert, but it seems like losing that much head over that much distance is asking for volume issues and/or booster pump headaches.
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Aug 29, 2020 21:26
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Motronic posted:
As I said I'm no expert on this, but on the face of it, it sounds like a utility-level scale issue. As a third option just to reduce the cost, if you're getting underground power run to the house site and the POCO's trench route works for you, it is possible they will allow joint use. Like, they trench at 4-5', install their conductor (or roll duct), then put 12-18" of cover dirt in, and you roll in your water line. The utility I work for has done it before, especially if you say the magic words "I'll have equipment on site to help backfill". We've done power, water, and phone in one trench on occasion. Can't hurt to ask.
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Aug 29, 2020 23:30
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At 95 acres I'd say you need a legit full sized backhoe for the long term. And yeah, gently caress you need a YouTube channel. Rarely does someone have access to this sort of project, and the means to keep it going. RDB, by being "cell only" does that mean you have sold your previous property and living in the 1810 house or RV'ing it?
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Aug 30, 2020 02:07
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rdb posted:I probably need to do a thread... The gently caress is he putting them down? Mule powered pile driver?
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Sep 4, 2020 05:21
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a sexual elk posted:Just bought a place in Big Bear Ca, 7k feet up in the mountains. Raised and lived apartments my entire life so just starting to goof around with our yard, 6k foot corner lot. Spent few hours hauling rocks and holy poo poo I’m not used to the altitude. Very nice. Jealous. rdb posted:Got my big tractor ready for some grade work. Had the third remote installed and picked up this giant bush hog blade. No problem regrading my gravel drive even though it was too dry for my smaller tractor and box blade. There were a lot of old buildings torn down on my new place and a lot of waterways/trails that need fixed. The big blade will definitely do the trick but final grade will still require the small tractor, or maybe a gauge wheel on this. Also very nice. You would probably get some utility (at a very budget price compared to your other equipment) from something like a chain harrow or drag mat to put a nice smooth finish on it. Motronic posted:Oh sweet, that looks like a really nice blade. I'm jealous. I think you can turn the whole pivot arm that the blade is mounted to. Very trick.
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Sep 12, 2020 16:02
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rdb posted:It does an offset, tilt and angle. What are the outriggers for?
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Sep 12, 2020 20:49
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rdb posted:The skid shoes? Yeah those things, I don't know anything about plowing snow! Edit- and for that matter, it seems like those would cut grooves in your driveway? Why not like, solid rubber tires? angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Sep 12, 2020 |
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Sep 12, 2020 21:58
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Per my understanding from property owners I've talked to, there's no use in trying to destroy their dam until you get rid of them. They can rebuild about as fast as you tear down. If there's a way to install drainage around their dam (like a pipe they can't figure out how to block), it may discourage them enough to leave. Is this a steam/creek they have dammed, or is it a bay/marsh/meadow (these describe similar features that I've heard exchanged in different areas) that naturally floods in times of heavy rain?
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Sep 27, 2020 22:41
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wesleywillis posted:According to a Candian Geographic or maybe National Geographic tv program I watched several years ago, Beavers hate the sound of running water. Some scientists apparently put some speakers out near a beaver dam that were playing the sounds of running water. Them fuckin beavers "dammed" up the speakers. quote:Flow devices are man-made solutions to beaver-related flooding problems. Traditional solutions have involved the trapping and removal of all the beavers in an area. While this is sometimes necessary, it is typically a short-lived solution, as beaver populations have made a remarkable comeback in the United States (after near extirpation in the nineteenth century) and rapidly recolonize suitable habitat.[1] In fact, a 2006 survey found that trapping as a solution to beaver problems had a 79% failure rate within two years due to resettlement by new beavers.[2] Flow devices are relatively cost-effective, low-maintenance solutions that regulate the water level of beaver dams and keep culverts open.[3][4][5] A 2006 study by the Virginia Department of Transportation found that for every $1 spent on flow-device installation relative to historical preventive maintenance, road repairs, and beaver population control activities, $8 was saved, for a return on investment of nearly 8:1.[6] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flow_device https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2WLwleKVW4 It may not work here for various reasons, and it definitely may not affect the beavers enough that they move along so trapping/euthanizing is probably still necessary, especially if tree destruction is the primary concern. But, it's definitely A Thing that has been effective in some cases, especially to minimize flooding.
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Sep 28, 2020 01:17
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OSU_Matthew posted:Also, I thought that beavers were generally really good for ecosystems? They do create new habitat, but sometimes their dams are a hazard by not allowing water flow in areas prone to flooding. Often, the bypass pipes I posted about earlier don't attempt to completely drain their pond, but just mitigate the flood hazard.
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Sep 28, 2020 12:06
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 07:26 |
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It doesn't sound like the person asking is installing a french drain, though? They want to install a paver patio, which entails excavating a large area by only a few inches, and then installing a gravel/sand base layer, level and ready for pavers. Edit, beaten
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Oct 24, 2020 00:52
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