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Kramdar
Jun 21, 2005

Radmark says....Worship Kramdar

Hrvstmn31 posted:

Anyone heard if anything is going on with Solid Gold? I 've been using it since it was one of the foods the last thread recommended and my two dorks love it. But I went into petsmart and it was pretty heavily discounted and when I asked what was up they said they were getting rid of their dog food line up.

I can't find anything on a quick search. Bet you Petsmart just has trouble moving the stuff. I've only bought a bag of Solid Gold there once, because I was waiting on a Chewy delivery. The kibble shape was distinctly different from the bags I got from Chewy. So I would think that means they had some real old stock at the store(s). Meanwhile, whenever I would go to a Petco to grab a bag, their inventory was always low.

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Unsane
Jul 16, 2003

Anyone tried any of the commercial mail order raw cat food like smalls or Darwin's? My cats favorite is wellness chicken shreds. Problem is over the last year, the price has almost tripled to $3 a can. On top of that, they started making it in Thailand. That wouldn't bother me so much, but the cats of course refuse to eat it. So at $6 a day these raw foods aren't really anymore expensive. Just not sure about the whole mail order raw meat thing.

Hrvstmn31
Aug 2, 2014

You did what in your cup?

Kramdar posted:

I can't find anything on a quick search. Bet you Petsmart just has trouble moving the stuff. I've only bought a bag of Solid Gold there once, because I was waiting on a Chewy delivery. The kibble shape was distinctly different from the bags I got from Chewy. So I would think that means they had some real old stock at the store(s). Meanwhile, whenever I would go to a Petco to grab a bag, their inventory was always low.

Thanks I've been meaning to order from chewy since out store is kinda run like crap.

HellOnEarth
Nov 7, 2005

Now that's good jerky!
So, Pazuzu is getting fixed a bit early at 4 months based on the fact her mother had a pretty early first heat and she's already got her swingy belly like 3 months early.

I'm not sure how much to feed her after the spay. Royal Canin Kitten dry food suggests 3/4 of a cup per day (not that she's ever eaten that much, she eats usually 1/2 a cup despite food being available) and I can get the Spayed Kitten Food when she's 6 months...

The thing is, she has to be on the Urinary S/O diet for 8 weeks because she has some urine crystals, and I know that's pretty high in calories and there's a bunch of math to do here with calories and I don't know how much to feed her. :psyduck:

Gangringo
Jul 22, 2007

In the first age, in the first battle, when the shadows first lengthened, one sat.

He chose the path of perpetual contentment.

Unsane posted:

Anyone tried any of the commercial mail order raw cat food like smalls or Darwin's? My cats favorite is wellness chicken shreds. Problem is over the last year, the price has almost tripled to $3 a can. On top of that, they started making it in Thailand. That wouldn't bother me so much, but the cats of course refuse to eat it. So at $6 a day these raw foods aren't really anymore expensive. Just not sure about the whole mail order raw meat thing.

I've been using Darwin's for some time now and it's been great. You will need a lot of freezer space though as they have upped their minimum order. For my 10ish pound cat one package lasts two days, I just divide it up into quarters and feed him one twice a day. Mingus has never been shinier or healthier.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





Tamarillo posted:

I'm glad people are being more discerning reading about this stuff. I can only speak for my institution but Hills and Royal Canin had little meaningful input beyond a couple of optional lunch-time lectures, the nutritional curriculum was spearheaded by a brand-agnostic boarded nutritionist and WSAVA member. We're not told to hawk the big brands and they're not funding secret junkets or kick-backs. I just want to put sick animals on food which has actually had trials, which boutique brands tend to not do. I also find that the vast majority of people who ask me what to feed their new pet just want to be told a brand and dislike being given a variety of options - so yes in that instance I'm probably going to default to recommending a brand that runs trials. I should also add that part of vet training involves spotting bullshit in published papers but I'm not going to pretend I'm fully up to date on all published literature and don't have any particular insight into the veracity of recent trials.

Can you recommend any resources for a layperson to try and figure out which food brands run decent trials?

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me
I have 2 new cats, about a year old. One has had soft stools since we got her 2 months ago. The vet checked her out and did a stool sample for parasites but it came up clean. The vet seems generally unconcerned, they just emailed the stool sample results to me and said nothing after. Maybe I don't have a veterinary degree but I feel like if it were me I would offer a next step, or theory, to that pet owner, but he seems unconcerned and maybe soft stool is not really something needed to be addressed....? I guess my next step is to switch foods, if maybe its fix is as simple as that? I have no idea which direction to go, but would prefer not to go toward prescription food prices just yet especially since the 2 cats share a bowl free-feeding. We're on dry Royal Canin Indoor, is Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach a good sidestep to see if the stool issues resolve, or if it's not a true RX line is it just all marketing and not *actually* good for stomachs?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


drat Bananas posted:

I have 2 new cats, about a year old. One has had soft stools since we got her 2 months ago. The vet checked her out and did a stool sample for parasites but it came up clean. The vet seems generally unconcerned, they just emailed the stool sample results to me and said nothing after. Maybe I don't have a veterinary degree but I feel like if it were me I would offer a next step, or theory, to that pet owner, but he seems unconcerned and maybe soft stool is not really something needed to be addressed....? I guess my next step is to switch foods, if maybe its fix is as simple as that? I have no idea which direction to go, but would prefer not to go toward prescription food prices just yet especially since the 2 cats share a bowl free-feeding. We're on dry Royal Canin Indoor, is Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach a good sidestep to see if the stool issues resolve, or if it's not a true RX line is it just all marketing and not *actually* good for stomachs?

Does she vomit? Often, rarely, never? If she does, is it mostly food, or is it just white foam or bile?

How often does she go #2? Once a day, or more frequently than once a day?

How consistent is the consistency? Always soft and gross, or only sometimes?

Has her weight changed recently? e.g. noticeable drops or ballooning?

Does she seems like she drinks a lot of water, or has started drinking more water than usual over time?

How is her mood? Has her behavior changed significantly, or stayed the same?

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me

Pollyanna posted:

Does she vomit? Often, rarely, never? If she does, is it mostly food, or is it just white foam or bile?

How often does she go #2? Once a day, or more frequently than once a day?

How consistent is the consistency? Always soft and gross, or only sometimes?

Has her weight changed recently? e.g. noticeable drops or ballooning?

Does she seems like she drinks a lot of water, or has started drinking more water than usual over time?

How is her mood? Has her behavior changed significantly, or stayed the same?

No vomiting. Poops probably twice per day, not really true liquid diarrhea just almost no shape/form to it, and I think it is all the time but it’s hard to tell, with 2 cats. No noticeable weight, drinking, or behavior changes, but I’ve only had her 2 months so we don’t have a firm baseline for those. She’s a small girl, about 6 lbs and change. The vet does think she has cat herpes due to her eye goopies and sneezing, if that could be relevant. And she has what *I* think is a lot of earwax but again the vet wasn’t concerned - did an ear swab and didn’t see any mites, but gave a dose of Revolution just in case.

Edit: she’s been on a sensitive stomach food for about a week (slow transition, so about half-old and half-new now) and also have been giving her a tablespoon of canned pumpkin twice per day as well. Poops are much better. Not perfect turds yet but a lot better.

Damn Bananas fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 1, 2023

Shogi
Nov 23, 2004

distant Pohjola
We have a ginger kitten of indeterminate age (around 7 months probably) who was found dumped in a wheelie bin and is slowly getting over his food security issues. He has a baffling love for brassicas, like, he will deftly snag Brussels sprouts off your plate on a claw and eat them, he will eat entire stalks of broccoli and ask for more. From what I have read brocc seems to be good for cats but I worry a little that too much might be bad for his thyroid. Can’t find a safe max anywhere. Is he likely to be OK with the odd stalk of brocc?

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
My cat, who has had a bevy of medical issues likely related to old age (she's 16) has lost a lot of interest in food, but she has a TON of interest in boiled chicken thighs. I've been trying to use tiny shreds to get her to eat better-quality foods, with some success, but not enough to build back the habit of just eating actual cat food.

I've got some Balance It nutritional additive stuff inbound. Has anyone had any success with that or other "just add this + some specified oils to cooked chicken" so I can at least give her what she wants without losing out on micronutrients?

We've done the vet and internist dance quite a bit - the only real way to get more answers is invasive testing, which is not an option since A) she's 16, how much can really be done without compromising her quality of life, and B) she's so skinny that vets don't feel confident putting her under anesthesia, and I don't blame 'em

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me

drat Bananas posted:

No vomiting. Poops probably twice per day, not really true liquid diarrhea just almost no shape/form to it, and I think it is all the time but it’s hard to tell, with 2 cats. No noticeable weight, drinking, or behavior changes, but I’ve only had her 2 months so we don’t have a firm baseline for those. She’s a small girl, about 6 lbs and change. The vet does think she has cat herpes due to her eye goopies and sneezing, if that could be relevant. And she has what *I* think is a lot of earwax but again the vet wasn’t concerned - did an ear swab and didn’t see any mites, but gave a dose of Revolution just in case.

Edit: she’s been on a sensitive stomach food for about a week (slow transition, so about half-old and half-new now) and also have been giving her a tablespoon of canned pumpkin twice per day as well. Poops are much better. Not perfect turds yet but a lot better.

I’m back, with a new vet… we went on metronidazole and some yellow antidiarrheal liquid I don’t remember the name of, it didn’t really help. Now we’re on probiotics and it’s about the same as it was on pumpkin. The vet wants to do more metronidazole (PLEASE no… she hates it so much and barely swallows much as it is…) and suspects a chicken allergy. But the foods I’ve seen are so expensive, and I want to feed both cats the same thing…

Does anyone know an affordable chicken-free cat food?

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

drat Bananas posted:

I’m back, with a new vet… we went on metronidazole and some yellow antidiarrheal liquid I don’t remember the name of, it didn’t really help. Now we’re on probiotics and it’s about the same as it was on pumpkin. The vet wants to do more metronidazole (PLEASE no… she hates it so much and barely swallows much as it is…) and suspects a chicken allergy. But the foods I’ve seen are so expensive, and I want to feed both cats the same thing…

Does anyone know an affordable chicken-free cat food?

I know the Merrick Limited-Ingredient Salmon wet & dry food doesn't *list* it, but it does have "natural flavor" so who knows.

I used to have a dog that was allergic to chicken feathers, so I feel you on how hard it is to not have the most common cheap protein in a food.

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo
We have an 8-month-old chaweenie that’s about to be spayed. We have been feeding her The Farmer’s Dog and they charged us $275 for the most recent shipment, so I’m moving away from them because Jesus Christ I spend less than that to feed myself in a month.

She’s healthy across the board per the vet.

Anyway, between Acana Wholesome Grains and Farmina N&D will I kill my dog? They seem pretty comparable on chewy.

cailleask
May 6, 2007





Well Played Mauer posted:

We have an 8-month-old chaweenie that’s about to be spayed. We have been feeding her The Farmer’s Dog and they charged us $275 for the most recent shipment, so I’m moving away from them because Jesus Christ I spend less than that to feed myself in a month.

She’s healthy across the board per the vet.

Anyway, between Acana Wholesome Grains and Farmina N&D will I kill my dog? They seem pretty comparable on chewy.

I feed my big mutt Acana Wholesome Grains and she hasn’t dropped dead yet? Normal poops and decent coat and skin and plenty of energy. It was too much protein for my mom’s delicate little cavapoo though so she supplements him with more carbs from another food - his poops were kinda gross.

Wroughtirony
May 14, 2007



Unsane posted:

Anyone tried any of the commercial mail order raw cat food like smalls or Darwin's? My cats favorite is wellness chicken shreds. Problem is over the last year, the price has almost tripled to $3 a can. On top of that, they started making it in Thailand. That wouldn't bother me so much, but the cats of course refuse to eat it. So at $6 a day these raw foods aren't really anymore expensive. Just not sure about the whole mail order raw meat thing.

bit of a necro, sorry, but chiming in to say I had a good experience with Darwins, but it was years ago. My only big gripe with commercial raw was that if I missed a shipment (one was once misdelivered to a neighbor who stole it not knowing what it was) I had to crash my cats back on to wet food because getting a shipment replaced took forever.

Now, I do homemade raw. I do two methods: supermarket meat (usually chicken leg quarters and pork butt) which I debone by hand and grind using a kitchenaid mixer attachment and mix with EZ Complete, and 80/10/10 pheasant grind from purepheasant.com, which I mix with Alnutrin for meat and bone and additional fiber. (one of my cats is prone to constipation on higher percentages of bone) This is WAY cheaper than both Darwin's and premium wet food, gives me more control over their diet, and more flexibility with what I have on hand. The downside is of course prep time and extra effort for food safety, but I'm a chef, so I process things pretty quickly and cleanly.

I supplement with egg yolk and omega 3 oil, but that's not necessary. I do it because I have 2 longhaired cats who tend to get hairballs, and it seems to help.

If you really want to go all-in, you can save more money in the long term by buying a grinder that can handle chicken bone and just grinding whole bone-in cuts.

I make bone broth (without onion or garlic) from the bones, which I use both for human cooking and as a topper for the cat's food to add hydration.

Reiterpallasch
Nov 3, 2010



Fun Shoe
Our cat's been on Orijen kibble his entire life and seems to like it. One of the reasons I know he likes it is that he's taken to bodyslamming his automatic feeder after discovering that if he can knock it over the top might pop off or a loose piece of kibble might fall out and he can have extra food. He does this a lot when he's hungry and bored, like say at 4 in the morning. We wedged it into its wall niche with the emergency water bottles and that's held, but he's shifted to prying the tray out of the feeder and trying to work his paw into it, with no luck so far. If he figures that out we're hosed though.

He's maintaining a healthy weight right now so we absolutely are not willing to let him have more food, but does anyone have a suggestion for an automatic feeder built like Fort Knox for food-insecure cats? We can't be the only people in the world having this problem, right?

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Hello thread!

I've got a 10 months old, old English bulldog who is adorable. However she's recently started getting a bit picky with her food and it's caused me to start doing a little research, including finding out that grain free is actually bad.. I had no idea.

My question is, is this food low enough in its percentage of legumes to be fine? I personally think it's a very low percentage but I have zero experience and have only just found out about this, so would appreciate any other input.

At the moment, we're trying to get her to eat 400g of that, along with 330g (I think it is) of wet food from the same company each day, spread over 2 meals.

According to their calculations, for her weight (33kg) she should be having 380g of dry and 530g wet per day.

However, the wet food is loving expensive and she's not even eating all of her food each meal anyway. She gets a good number of treats during the day, normally fried fish which is her favourite or other high meat content treats. Nothing over the top, she is a touch over weight currently which is another reason she's getting slightly less food. The idea is that we don't increase her food amount as she's growing, till she's the right weight. She's out for about an hour's walk each day on average and has play sessions etc too. She's not overly active or inactive for a bulldog. I think she has a good balance personally..

Anyway, yeah.. is this puppy dry food ok RE grains/legumes and should I be worried she's not eating everything even though it's less than she should be eating anyway according to the supplier?

https://www.lilyskitchen.co.uk/for-dogs/puppy/chicken-and-salmon-dry-food-for-puppies-BDPDC.html#pos=3



Once she's finished growing and out of her puppy stage, were looking at moving her to a different food anyway, so while I'm here, it you'd be willing to have a look at that and give me your thoughts to, it would be much appreciated!

https://wolfworthy.co.uk/pages/wolfworthy-original-80-20-ingredients

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

Hello thread!

I've got a 10 months old, old English bulldog who is adorable. However she's recently started getting a bit picky with her food and it's caused me to start doing a little research, including finding out that grain free is actually bad.. I had no idea.

My question is, is this food low enough in its percentage of legumes to be fine? I personally think it's a very low percentage but I have zero experience and have only just found out about this, so would appreciate any other input.
Both diets you linked are still grain free. Get something that includes grains. The percentage of legumes is not relevant.

Also your plan of feeding the same amount as she grows beyond 10 months may not work for weight loss. She does not have much growing left to do, and her caloric needs are going to decrease after she stops growing, and even more after she is spayed. Keeping her lean while growing is the best thing for her joints later in life, so I would get the excess weight off right now.

fyallm
Feb 27, 2007



College Slice

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

Hello thread!

I've got a 10 months old, old English bulldog who is adorable. However she's recently started getting a bit picky with her food and it's caused me to start doing a little research, including finding out that grain free is actually bad.. I had no idea.

My question is, is this food low enough in its percentage of legumes to be fine? I personally think it's a very low percentage but I have zero experience and have only just found out about this, so would appreciate any other input.

At the moment, we're trying to get her to eat 400g of that, along with 330g (I think it is) of wet food from the same company each day, spread over 2 meals.

According to their calculations, for her weight (33kg) she should be having 380g of dry and 530g wet per day.

However, the wet food is loving expensive and she's not even eating all of her food each meal anyway. She gets a good number of treats during the day, normally fried fish which is her favourite or other high meat content treats. Nothing over the top, she is a touch over weight currently which is another reason she's getting slightly less food. The idea is that we don't increase her food amount as she's growing, till she's the right weight. She's out for about an hour's walk each day on average and has play sessions etc too. She's not overly active or inactive for a bulldog. I think she has a good balance personally..

Anyway, yeah.. is this puppy dry food ok RE grains/legumes and should I be worried she's not eating everything even though it's less than she should be eating anyway according to the supplier?

https://www.lilyskitchen.co.uk/for-dogs/puppy/chicken-and-salmon-dry-food-for-puppies-BDPDC.html#pos=3



Once she's finished growing and out of her puppy stage, were looking at moving her to a different food anyway, so while I'm here, it you'd be willing to have a look at that and give me your thoughts to, it would be much appreciated!

https://wolfworthy.co.uk/pages/wolfworthy-original-80-20-ingredients

What food are you currently feeding her?

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Currently she's having the first one, the puppy food, mixed with the same brand wet food.

Also thanks for advice, I'm still not sure she's having too many calories, as per the food company's website she's undereating, which I find a little hard to believe considering she's regularly not finishing her food.

How do I know exactly how much food she should have? We take the food up when shea finished fyi so she doesn't have access to it all day..

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

Currently she's having the first one, the puppy food, mixed with the same brand wet food.

Also thanks for advice, I'm still not sure she's having too many calories, as per the food company's website she's undereating, which I find a little hard to believe considering she's regularly not finishing her food.

How do I know exactly how much food she should have? We take the food up when shea finished fyi so she doesn't have access to it all day..
If she is overweight, she is eating too much. It's really that simple. The bag will tell you to overfeed. If you are having to doctor the food to encourage her to finish it and she is already overweight, you aren't doing her any favors. If I were you, I would stop doing things to encourage her to eat, pick up the food after 10 minutes, and see if she's still fat in a couple weeks. If she gets too thin, you'll have to reevaluate, but considering 95% of bulldog puppies are overweight, I'd be surprised if that happens. More likely than not she'll still be sorta fat and you'll need to cut back on the food more. It can't be stated enough times that keeping your dog lean, especially during growth, will pay dividends on their mobility and health a decade from now.

Culex
Jul 22, 2007

Crime sucks.

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

per the food company's website she's undereating, which I find a little hard to believe

if a company tells a person to feed less than their dog needs to live, and their dog starves to death, welcome to lawsuit town.

this includes very active dogs who need more calories.

so yes, companies err on the side of lawsuit caution and recommend more than any dog could need, a smidge more than an athlete dog would.

don't forget to account for treats and long term edible chews for calories. easy to overdo it with a lot of treats.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.

Crooked Booty posted:

If she is overweight, she is eating too much. It's really that simple. The bag will tell you to overfeed. If you are having to doctor the food to encourage her to finish it and she is already overweight, you aren't doing her any favors. If I were you, I would stop doing things to encourage her to eat, pick up the food after 10 minutes, and see if she's still fat in a couple weeks. If she gets too thin, you'll have to reevaluate, but considering 95% of bulldog puppies are overweight, I'd be surprised if that happens. More likely than not she'll still be sorta fat and you'll need to cut back on the food more. It can't be stated enough times that keeping your dog lean, especially during growth, will pay dividends on their mobility and health a decade from now.

To be clear, we're not encouraging her to eat more *at all*. She's doing a great job of only eating what she wants/needs and regularly leaves food if you look at my first post, that's what got me looking into this in the first place so I'd appreciate you didn't try to imply we're intentionally overfeeding and fixing her to have more than she needs... The whole point of me posting here is to try and work out how to work out exactly what she needs and that she gets that, rather than just going on what the manufacturer states... Clearly i wasn't clear enough with that in the first place.

Again, she is only SLIGHTLY overweight and I do mean slightly. She's a big dog, she's very strong, she gets regular exercise, she's not eating everything because my opinion is that she doesn't think she needs it and that's what I'm investigating right now, so she's not having it all and she is managing her own food intake. We take the food away when shes finished and she gets a little added for her 2nd meal to bring it up to where the calculator says it should be. If she doesn't eat it at the end of the day, it goes in the bin..


EDIT: if it's relevant at all, her dad is 45kg and her mum is just under 40, she was also the biggest of the litter.

Just to be clear, I value your Input but I'd appreciate it more if you checked what I'd said before casting judgement on how we're doing things and jumping to conclusions etc..

Ragnar Gunvald fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Feb 7, 2024

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.

Culex posted:

if a company tells a person to feed less than their dog needs to live, and their dog starves to death, welcome to lawsuit town.

this includes very active dogs who need more calories.

so yes, companies err on the side of lawsuit caution and recommend more than any dog could need, a smidge more than an athlete dog would.

don't forget to account for treats and long term edible chews for calories. easy to overdo it with a lot of treats.

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking, but in the UK we don't really have much of a lawsuit culture etc and I wanted to get a better opinion rather than just making the decision myself. For long term etc she has access to ostrich bone, a rams horn and another bone. She's not overly fussed about other stuff and even the other treats etc she's had little interest in for awhile so we've not been feeding them to her, but we try to stick to natural treats, like the odd rabbits ear, chicken foot and dried sprats. She also has low cal treats for training as thats what we have used since she was 8 weeks old

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

To be clear, we're not encouraging her to eat more *at all*. She's doing a great job of only eating what she wants/needs and regularly leaves food if you look at my first post, that's what got me looking into this in the first place so I'd appreciate you didn't try to imply we're intentionally overfeeding and fixing her to have more than she needs... The whole point of me posting here is to try and work out how to work out exactly what she needs and that she gets that, rather than just going on what the manufacturer states... Clearly i wasn't clear enough with that in the first place.

Again, she is only SLIGHTLY overweight and I do mean slightly. She's a big dog, she's very strong, she gets regular exercise, she's not eating everything because my opinion is that she doesn't think she needs it and that's what I'm investigating right now, so she's not having it all and she is managing her own food intake. We take the food away when shes finished and she gets a little added for her 2nd meal to bring it up to where the calculator says it should be. If she doesn't eat it at the end of the day, it goes in the bin..


EDIT: if it's relevant at all, her dad is 45kg and her mum is just under 40, she was also the biggest of the litter.

Just to be clear, I value your Input but I'd appreciate it more if you checked what I'd said before casting judgement on how we're doing things and jumping to conclusions etc..
You said she is "getting a bit picky", she is "overweight", and that you were "trying to get her to eat 400g". Do you get how having a dog that is both "picky" and "overweight" means you are feeding your dog too much? That's what that means. Sorry your dog is fat.

Like you literally just said your dog is both fat and not finishing her food, so you're trying to figure out what the problem is??

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Well I'm sorry I'm autistic and I don't have the same loving communication skills you do, I'm doing the best I can and having some twat pick everything apart word for word doesn't really help me at all in all honesty.

I hope you feel better about yourself by correcting me on exactly what I said even if it wasn't what I meant. You've also not really helped me at all in the slightest so far, the things I've asked about, such as being able to accurately work out how much food she should have rather than trial and error has been glossed over in favour of having a go at me.

If anyone else wants to provide some actual help I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll go back to doing what I'm doing.

Ragnar Gunvald fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 7, 2024

Lanky Coconut Tree
Apr 7, 2011

An angry tree.

The angriest tree

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

According to their calculations, for her weight (33kg) she should be having 380g of dry and 530g wet per day.]

That seems really chonky for a 10 month old pup. I'm not familiar with that breed but a quick Google led me to these weight charts which indicates she's very overweight.

https://wagwalking.com/breed/olde-english-bulldogge

I would quit using the dog food recommendations and hit up a vet for a professional opinion. Get them to tell you the caloric requirements per day as well as if she's overweight. The dog food you linked says that 100 grams has 380 kcal or Calories. Let's say she needs about 1700 calories a day, so you're looking at 447 grams total. Get a weighing scale if you don't have one already and ditch the measuring cups.

Grain free, legumes, etc are a lesser concern than her total weight and fitness.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.

Lanky Coconut Tree posted:

That seems really chonky for a 10 month old pup. I'm not familiar with that breed but a quick Google led me to these weight charts which indicates she's very overweight.

https://wagwalking.com/breed/olde-english-bulldogge

I would quit using the dog food recommendations and hit up a vet for a professional opinion. Get them to tell you the caloric requirements per day as well as if she's overweight. The dog food you linked says that 100 grams has 380 kcal or Calories. Let's say she needs about 1700 calories a day, so you're looking at 447 grams total. Get a weighing scale if you don't have one already and ditch the measuring cups.

Grain free, legumes, etc are a lesser concern than her total weight and fitness.

I would normally agree with you, but it's a "newer" breed. She and her whole family are all much bigger than reported online. Both height, length and weight.

The family is well documented and registered for the last 5 generations too.

Because it's so poorly documented as a breed it's hard to find something concrete. Which is also why I was asking about being able to calculate myself.

Do I need to post photos to show everyone she's not morbidly obese. But her whole family is the same, again, I've checked. Siblings, parents etc.

Also with noting the vet has said her weight is fine, we have checked this stuff. Her food is weighed out every meal too.

I've come here for information and a discussion and feel like everyone is simply telling me things I'm already doing and assuming I'm an idiot at this point..

The focus is on your assumptions about my inability to see my dogs weight, that I've not checked with a vet, that the online information is 100% accurate etc etc.. I didn't ask for help with any of those things.

I wanted to hear opinions on the foods I posted, the grain free thing as that was actually eye opening to me as vets here are still recommending grain free so that was actually helpful. But asking about how to judge her actual needs based on Goon opinions (something I normally trust implicitly and haven't had a bad experience with in many years) seems to be a little bit of a difficult topic for this thread.

Ragnar Gunvald fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Feb 7, 2024

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

I would normally agree with you, but it's a "newer" breed. She and her whole family are all much bigger than reported online. Both height, length and weight.

The family is well documented and registered for the last 5 generations too.

Because it's so poorly documented as a breed it's hard to find something concrete. Which is also why I was asking about being able to calculate myself.

Do I need to post photos to show everyone she's not morbidly obese. But her whole family is the same, again, I've checked. Siblings, parents etc.

Also with noting the vet has said her weight is fine, we have checked this stuff. Her food is weighed out every meal too.

I've come here for information and a discussion and feel like everyone is simply telling me things I'm already doing and assuming I'm an idiot at this point..

The focus is on your assumptions about my inability to see my dogs weight, that I've not checked with a vet, that the online information is 100% accurate etc etc.. I didn't ask for help with any of those things.

I wanted to hear opinions on the foods I posted, the grain free thing as that was actually eye opening to me as vets here are still recommending grain free so that was actually helpful. But asking about how to judge her actual needs based on Goon opinions (something I normally trust implicitly and haven't had a bad experience with in many years) seems to be a little bit of a difficult topic for this thread.
I'm not sure why you think your questions were not answered.

1) Both the foods you linked are grain free and therefore not recommended. The percentage of legume content is not relevant if there are no grains present. I already said this.

2) There is no magic formula for how much an individual dog should eat, just like there isn't for humans. The bag will tell you to overfeed. If your dog is overweight (as you yourself stated!!!) you should first figure out how many calories she's getting in a day, and then reduce that number, and then reevaluate her weight in a few weeks. The only thing your vet is going to be able to tell you more specifically is perhaps what percentage reduction in calories to start with based on how fat your dog is. Knowing nothing about how fat your dog is or how much she is eating, I, a veterinarian who has not seen your dog, would reduce her calories by 20% and reevaluate in a few weeks. Trial and error is literally how this is done. I'm sorry if you don't like the answers you got, but it's silly to act like everyone is a big meanie and no one is answering your questions.

hypoallergenic cat breed
Dec 16, 2010

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

Do I need to post photos to show everyone she's not morbidly obese. But her whole family is the same, again, I've checked. Siblings, parents etc

Please do post pictures, not only would it be the best way to assess her BCS but cute dog pictures are always good to have.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Well I'm always happy to post photos of her! Lol


Here she is from a couple of weeks ago:



This is about a month after we got her, she came to us quite underweight unfortunately.



And this is her right now, after a very busy day of walking and exposure training.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

How do I know exactly how much food she should have?

I don't have any advice, but commiseration because knowing how much is hard. We're also struggling with that question. It's very frustrating navigating the landscape created by dog food companies and pet marketing etc.

Our English Setter has the opposite problem maybe, in that he tends to be underweight. We feed him well over what the package says, but he's still very skinny. We've shelled out for pathogen and metabolism panels, but everything is coming back normal. Maybe really nothing is wrong, but it seems wild that he can eat 6 cups of food a day and still barely be above low 40 lbs. He's probably running 10 miles a day, so he's active, but still.

He also poops so dang much. Dog food is expensive and picking up 10 poops a day is a drag. We're thinking of trying to cook for him, but would like to figure out a strategy (calories per day, carbs/protein/fat ratio). Meeting with the vet again this week, but would welcome any internet thoughts.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Hey!

We've actually just switched to dry food only for her now and she's lost a touch of weight as we wanted. She's very happy right now tbh.

If anything she's a bit over tired from moving from one to two walks a day now she's pretty much fully grown and it's taking a bit of adjustment for her. We're just actively keeping an eye on her weight right now with the additional exercise but she seems stable and loving life thankfully.

cailleask
May 6, 2007





My 70lb dog is both extremely lazy and also an air plant. She only gets 2 cups of food a day to maintain a healthy weight (more if active but lol that’s very difficult to manage). We were giving her ~3 and she was slowly but steadily gaining weight.

Dogs are mysterious! If it takes 6 cups then it takes 6 cups. Is it very nutrient-dense food? Mine is on Orijen with grains which is, uh, very dense indeed.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
The vet was frustrating, they kinda just shrugged. I know a vet isn't a nutritionist, but I thought they'd at least have a direction to check. I talked to some mushers. They gave some recommendations for dense kibbles. One also said "meat is the best, and will give them smaller shits" but of course we're not just gonna feed the dog steaks. Ah well, at least feeling a bit more knowledgeable

Gangringo
Jul 22, 2007

In the first age, in the first battle, when the shadows first lengthened, one sat.

He chose the path of perpetual contentment.

For what it's worth my mother feeds her dog cuts of beef with Brussels sprouts and whole eggs and she says after doing the math it's cheaper than premium dog food.

She buys whatever family sized cut of beef is on sale that week.

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
My vet has my cat on a strict UTI approved food only diet (as in no more table scraps). What are some good brands for cat treats that are safe for UTI diet?

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep




Bonito flakes probably best natural cat treat. Its just smoked, shaved fish. Human grade in bulk is fine and way cheaper than the lil tubs from the pet store. A pinch of it looks like a lot but is very little actual material.

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Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.

Epitope posted:

The vet was frustrating, they kinda just shrugged. I know a vet isn't a nutritionist, but I thought they'd at least have a direction to check. I talked to some mushers. They gave some recommendations for dense kibbles. One also said "meat is the best, and will give them smaller shits" but of course we're not just gonna feed the dog steaks. Ah well, at least feeling a bit more knowledgeable

I get that, turns out our doggo has some kind of allergy somewhere and rather trying to work out what it was they just want us to feed her expensive prescription food.

She vomits a little each day that she's off it and it's caused her pneumonia so obviously we're concerned about her a lot right now. But I'd feel much better if we could identify what the actual allergen is rather than just avoiding "everything".

I guess it's just going to take us a long time to figure it out. Are actual allergen tests for dogs a thing even?

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