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Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

TenementFunster posted:

is there a consensus about the best dry cat food that isn't a zillion dollars (say, under ~$30 for a 10lb bag) and available at kroger/target/etc? my tabby has had everything from meow mix to science diet, and seemed happiest/healthiest with Nutro's recently-discontinued Max Cat. i got some Iam's for the time being, which he seems to enjoy and doesn't make his shits smell too awful, but have no idea. it seems like all the internet reviews any cat food are either obviously Sponsored Content or will make my cat drop dead.

anyway, i don't want to spend $40 a bag or have to drive all the way to hang out with the freaks who work at petco unless it's going to be objectively better for a cat that will happily house a bowl of meow mix

so a couple things: Chewy is a goddamn miracle and i always laugh when i make petsmart employees price match against chewy

Two, there's nothing really that stands out from the pack in terms of pet food at grocery stores. I've been using Instinct by Nature's Variety for Artemis for about 9 months now (either their regular kibble in chicken, their raw boost [kibble plus freeze dried pieces] in chicken, and switching it up to salmon next month), and it's worked out very well for her. Her coat is super soft and silky, she's svelte and in her perfect weight.

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Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

IMO just say "sure Jan" and feed them a mix of high quality wet and dry.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

What I will say though is free feeding depends on the cat. Some can handle it and not get fat as hell, some will eat everything they can see.


As far as Blue itself goes, I'd consider it one of the better ish grocery store brands, but middle tier as far as all available foods go.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

AnonymousNarcotics posted:

What about not giving cats fish or fish-flavored food? Is there any truth to that? It's really hard to sort out what's true and what's bs

As far as I can tell it's not a thing.

I've had nothing but great results from a mix of Nature's Variety Instinct Raw Boost kibble (so it's kibble plus freeze dried whole pieces of the given protein) as well as every other day replacing one of those meals with a can of Instinct wet food.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

More than anything I'd just plan on rotating proteins every so often to keep a cat from getting too hung up on a single protein and refusing to eat any other protein.

As far as I can tell the fish issue is that there's not enough thiamine in fish straight so if a cat is just eating fish they'll suffer from thiamine deficiency after a while. But food manufacturers are aware of this so they add it in to make sure they're getting what they need.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

Dogen posted:

All I've ever heard from vets is that the 3 year rabies vaccine doesn't work well in cats

Also obviously dry food is fine. I think wet food gives an edge in providing moisture but like get a cat fountain or something.

These people sound insane.

As far as rabies goes, my understanding is that there was a 1 year PureVax rabies (nonadjuvanted which allegedly is the thing that reduces the risk of injection site sarcomas) and a 3 year adjuvanted. The 3 year PureVax didn't pass testing until 2014 though (because someone hosed up the test and the control cats who were supposed to get sick with rabies didn't so they had to restart the entire 3 year trial).

If vets haven't kept up (or if you haven't explicitly asked about it recently), they're going to recommend the 1 year PureVax rabies since that reduces the risk of sarcomas, but now that the 3 year PureVax rabies exists, assuming your jurisdiction allows 3 years instead of 1 years, just get the 3 year.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

Of course this made me realize that when I renewed Artemis's rabies last week, Vetco (because cheap) gave RabVac 3 year which is adjuvanted. Oh well, I'll deal with it on her next set of shots as well as her rabies when it's time again.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

feedback loop posted:

I just got a bonded pair of cats this weekend and apparently need to re-learn how to feed cats. I'm about to transition them off the cheapo Purina that their foster mom fed them, but I bought a big ol bag of Nutrish grain-free food before seeing the OP's warning about grain-free foods - should I really be avoiding them at all costs? Don't wanna give them poison but don't wanna overreact and rush to donate or return the food either.

My understanding is that right now the only real "definitely reconsider this dietary choice" is for dogs, not for cats. There's been a handful of cases reported to the FDA for cats compared to the bunch of cases for dogs. Like was mentioned on the first page, the issue isn't necessarily not having grains, its an interplay of potential nutritional side effects by swapping grains out for other things.

Kibble needs starch to be extruded, grains provide that starch, but don't provide that protein, so they have to make sure they put lots of animal protein in the formula. Replace grains with legumes or potatoes (which contain more crude protein than grains do), and then you can cut meat protein proportion. Cut meat protein proportion, you start losing the amount of taurine, with the additional potential side effect of some stuff contained in legumes/potatoes being a antinutrient when it comes to absorbing amino acids and stuff.

I'd argue that a grain free food at ~30% crude protein with potatoes is slightly riskier than a grain free food at ~40% crude protein with zero legumes/potatoes in it. However, when I say slightly riskier, I do mean only barely riskier. Cats have more or less already gone through the "oh crap they need taurine" phase of nutritional science, so they're much less susceptible to the interplay of grain-free and DCM. Cats can't synthesize taurine, so all cat food was supplemented with it. Dogs can synthesize taurine from animal protein, but if the numbers aren't adding up, they aren't getting enough taurine down the line.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

bloody ghost titty posted:

So the missus asked me to look into the farmers dog to add/transition out of the existing kibble, and looking at the price tag and being more than competent with a kitchen knife and scale, I was wondering if it wouldn’t be prudent to follow their recipes at home, or if there are some resources for people who want to feed small dogs well without being absolutely crazy pants about it.

Honestly, I'd be hesitant to do it. They don't sell their "nutrient packs" yet, so you'd be flying blind when it comes comes to those, especially since you'd be nutrient deficient without those. Either you're spending a lot of money for the nutritional stuff to be done right when it comes to raw/fresh food, or you're risking it, given that you can't ask a dog "did you eat your veggies" and get an actual answer.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

Tangy Zizzle posted:

I really appreciate this point but was hoping you could elaborate/corroborate the 30c per lb number.

Background - I was adopted by a fat 6 year old domestic short hair named Porter last year - during our initial checkup he weighed in at 21 lbs and the vet asked us to restrict his diet. We spent a year counting his calories and capping him at 500 (which is a pretty sizable decrease and should have brought him slowly down at least a lb or two) and he somehow came up to 22lbs. We've further reduced his diet to less than 400 cals per day, which according to your math seems draconian but he doesn't seems to be losing weight.

We live in a small condo and get him as active as possible but he's not a playful guy. We think he came from a home with a really old owner who left him mostly to his own devices.

He currently enjoys 65g of Blue Buffalo diet food in the evening in a slow feeder and a can of Fancy Feast Ocean Whitefish and Tuna pate in the morning, with some extra water thrown in.

He doesn't beg for food until it's about an hour outside feeding time.

cat tax
https://imgur.com/a/geW56nQ



So if we take this, he should be at around ~300 calories a day, which probably explains why going to 500 brought him up, not down, given that 500 is the RER of a cat past 25 lbs.

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

Deathlove posted:

Thank you for very much for the chart and the food recs - my vet wants my cat down to closer to 10-11 pounds, and she was closer to 17 this past visit. Picking up some Tiki and switching off of Purina ProPlan Dry to see how that goes. I was pretty strict about 250 calories with it, but hopefully the higher protein/lower carbs/more wet of the Tiki will do the trick!

Re: The Chart - If I aim for 12 pounds, trying to lose weight, I should be giving her about 200cal a day? She's gonna hate me, haha

tax:

250 should be a good number. You start with the chart at their current weight, and use the multiplier for where you want them to go.

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Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

We still rank Orijen pretty highly for cat food, right?

Mine are currently on Instinct by Nature's Variety but that was more a limitation of Chewy not selling it due to Orijen taking the ball and going home. Now that they've got Orijen again, I really don't see a downside to switching, but just wanted a second opinion.

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