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Not related but my mom is desperate to move back to the city from the country and put an offer on a house without an inspection. It looks great but EUGH.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:53
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I'm installing a vent fan in a chicken coop to help keep temps down during the summer - Is there any functional difference between setting it up as intake or exhaust? I see more people doing exhaust, but I can't figure the physics behind it actually mattering - Either way, you're exchanging air. If you exhaust it, you're moving hot air out, and drawing in cooler air. If you pull cooler air in, you disperse the hot air in the building, no?
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Apr 25, 2024 00:50
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Motronic posted:Oh poo poo well.....yeah, we're back to the part where I said it wasn't impossible. But this is now a restoration-level job with a restoration sized budget. If it's cheap flipper latex paint they might get lucky and it'll come off fairly easily in most spots, but yeah any detail is going to be a motherfucker to get clean.
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Apr 25, 2024 00:55
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Motronic posted:How were they before? What kind of mower? I'm pretty sure they were like that before. I thought I took a picture of it but apparently I didn't. It's a Snapper about a decade old. Would have to find the model.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:17
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Beef Eater posted:I'm pretty sure they were like that before. I thought I took a picture of it but apparently I didn't. It's a Snapper about a decade old. Would have to find the model. If it's that old the cables have "memory" and want to go back to where they were before....especially if the only thing that's been done to it was to remove the old battery from a previously working mower (if that's not the case you just upped the complexity and my answer will be very differnet). It's overwhelmingly likley they were just bundled together if this is just an old gas mower and you shouldn't have to fight them to get them to do that. If something seems too hard stop and reevaluate the situation.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:19
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Slugworth posted:I'm installing a vent fan in a chicken coop to help keep temps down during the summer - Is there any functional difference between setting it up as intake or exhaust? I see more people doing exhaust, but I can't figure the physics behind it actually mattering - Either way, you're exchanging air. If you exhaust it, you're moving hot air out, and drawing in cooler air. If you pull cooler air in, you disperse the hot air in the building, no? I expect it depends on where you install the fan, because hot air rises and you don't want to be fighting that. Put the fan in the roof or just under the eaves? It should be an exhaust fan, because the hot air's up there already and you can easily pull it out. Put the fan lower to the ground? It should be an intake fan, because if it's an exhaust fan, you'd be moving much more cold air than hot air.
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Apr 25, 2024 01:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I expect it depends on where you install the fan, because hot air rises and you don't want to be fighting that. Put the fan in the roof or just under the eaves? It should be an exhaust fan, because the hot air's up there already and you can easily pull it out. Put the fan lower to the ground? It should be an intake fan, because if it's an exhaust fan, you'd be moving much more cold air than hot air.
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Apr 25, 2024 02:06
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Motronic posted:If it's that old the cables have "memory" and want to go back to where they were before....especially if the only thing that's been done to it was to remove the old battery from a previously working mower (if that's not the case you just upped the complexity and my answer will be very differnet). It's overwhelmingly likley they were just bundled together if this is just an old gas mower and you shouldn't have to fight them to get them to do that. If something seems too hard stop and reevaluate the situation. Alright, thanks. Yeah, it's a working mower than just had the battery removed.
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Apr 25, 2024 04:24
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Slugworth posted:That makes sense - It'll be up high, so exhaust it is. I was leaning towards intake because in my mind it'd be blowing across the chickens (I'd rather be in front of a fan than behind it), but I think your logic is pretty sound. If you can one high and one low, you'd be perfect, really. A good air exchange is magic in places that can't get AC.
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Apr 26, 2024 00:27
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For painting a fence: I have an air compressor and air-powered paint sprayer. Plan to hose the fence down, let that dry off, then spray it with two coats. Figure I'll get the most expensive exterior-rated paint type at the hardware store. Would it be better to do one layer of primer and one layer of paint, or two layers of a combined paint+primer, or does it not really matter? Any other advice? The fence is made of 5' cedar 1x4s, cedar stringers, and PT 4x4 posts.
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Apr 26, 2024 18:48
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OK first, is the wood dry? If you just built that fence, check the moisture of the wood. I don't mean the surface, I mean the water that is absorbed within the grains of the wood. You'll get much, much better paint adhesion and longevity if you let especially the pressure-treated stuff get dry. I've got a cedar fence gate that I built last fall and it's only just now nearly dry enough to paint. The stuff int he stacks at home depot tends to be sopping wet from the mill. Wet timber takes on average about a year per inch thickness to fully season, your lumber might have already had some of that time. A moisture meter is not super expensive but if you'd rather not buy one, it's not a bad idea to just let a new fence season for six months or so before painting it. Second: prime then paint is best, but a dual primer/paint mix will work OK too. If you hose off the fence to paint it, make sure that water dries completely. Wetting roughsawn wood will raise the grain and make a rougher surface, you want that grain to lay back down before you paint on it. An exterior paint will work fine. Will the fence be subjected to extreme temps/snow? Almost nothing will stand up to that for very long so plan to re-paint every five years or so. Will it be rubbed up against by livestock? Use barn & fence paint, which is livestock safe.
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Apr 26, 2024 19:03
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A separate primer will serve you best here, and "paint and primer in one" is marketing bullshit. For cedar specifically, the best primer will be a slow drying oil-based primer made for exterior high tannin wood like cedar or redwood. Sherwin Williams Exterior Oil-Based Wood Primer or Ben Moore Arborcoat Exterior Oil Primer are good bets. Topcoat with two coats of the exterior latex topcoat of your choice. A conventional air sprayer may not do well with the full-body exterior primer and topcoat you'd be using and may need to be thinned too much depending on exactly what you have. An airless sprayer would be much better suited for it. Whatever you spray it with, you'll want to backroll or backbrush as you go as well. ^ yeah also all that stuff Leperflesh said too Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 26, 2024 19:09
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It's a new fence, and yes I'm planning to wait for the wood to dry; the installer recommended waiting six months (unless the summer gets really hot, in which case less might also work). I'm just laying in plans at this stage. It's in PA, so it does snow/freeze here, but it's not really what I'd call extreme. I definitely understand that paint doesn't last forever. The fence won't last forever either. The goal here is to get a nice cheery color and extend the life of the fence somewhat, that's all. Re: sprayers, I already own the air sprayer, that's the main attraction there. It's an old thing, granted; I inherited it from my dad, who bought it at some indeterminate time in the past. Thanks for the advice/recommendations!
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Apr 26, 2024 19:14
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What's the difference between solid stain and exterior paint? Why would you choose one over the other?
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Apr 26, 2024 19:15
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Final Blog Entry posted:A conventional air sprayer may not do well with the full-body exterior primer and topcoat you'd be using and may need to be thinned too much depending on exactly what you have. An airless sprayer would be much better suited for it. Whatever you spray it with, you'll want to backroll or backbrush as you go as well. We managed to get elastomeric paint to come out of an air sprayer with only mild thinning with water; the concerns about over-thinning tend to be overblown IMO. We had to do about an 8:1 paint to water mix which was not bad at all, and latex elastomeric paint is thick as hell. It's also supposed to go on very thick to be effective so we went right back to rollers after an experiment becuase it was just faster. Sprayer still did fine with killz primer and then white exterior house paint for all the trim. That said, you do need to pay attention, like measure your mix and do it consistently with each batch, and thinning can mean needing to do an extra layer. brugroffil posted:What's the difference between solid stain and exterior paint? Why would you choose one over the other? Stain soaks into wood and changes its color. Paint coats wood and protects it from wear & tear. You can put stain under a clearcoat if you want, and that's quite common if you want e.g. pine to look more like oak or walnut or w/e. "Solid stain" is just a clearcoat + a stain in one. IMO it's not as good as staining first, you have much less control over the color - with a stain you can thin it or add a second layer and get just the color you want, and then put as many topcoats of clearcoat that you want/ need. With a "solid stain" if you put on two coats and decide you need a third, you're going to be darkening the color at the same time. This might not matter to you at all if you are just generally going for "brown" though and it can save you from one or two coats of doing stuff vs. a stain followed by a sealer. But IMO the natural color of wood might be fine for you too in that case, in which case just skip the stain and apply clearcoat. Note that some clearcoats yellow with time, so keep that in mind. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 26, 2024 19:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For painting a fence: I have an air compressor and air-powered paint sprayer. Plan to hose the fence down, let that dry off, then spray it with two coats. Figure I'll get the most expensive exterior-rated paint type at the hardware store. Would it be better to do one layer of primer and one layer of paint, or two layers of a combined paint+primer, or does it not really matter? Any other advice? brugroffil posted:What's the difference between solid stain and exterior paint? Why would you choose one over the other? When talking about solid exterior stain vs paint, it is mostly to do with the amount of solids (which is pigment and binder) in the paint, and thus how thick of a film is left when dry. Looking at the stain I linked above vs. a good exterior paint, the stain is ~45% solids and the paint is ~60% solids. The paint is gonna be leave a 30% thicker film than the stain just on that basis alone, not to mention that the binders are probably different compositions too.
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Apr 26, 2024 20:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'd use an exterior stain. They change the color but don't leave much of a film so when they do fail (and of course they will fail in time) they don't peel off, the color just kind of goes away and they are relatively easy to recoat. Also generally less particular about application than paint. This is what my painter used on my pressure treated fence and it looks great, tho it has only been a year. Water definitely beads off it more than the raw wood, so it is doing at least something towards protecting it, and the pigment should be blocking some UV as well. My main goal here is to get a nice, cheerful color, which means moving away from browns. I don't think stain is gonna get me light blue 
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Apr 26, 2024 20:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My main goal here is to get a nice, cheerful color, which means moving away from browns. I don't think stain is gonna get me light blue https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/stain-colors/exterior-stains
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Apr 26, 2024 20:07
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  This connection to the mixing valve (?) Of my bathroom three-piece faucet is leaking. I don't recognize whatever this connection is so I'm not quite sure how to go about replacing/repairing this. Hoping it can be done without a new faucet. Any insight?
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Apr 26, 2024 20:43
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See those blue tabs at each connection? They’re quick-connects. You squeeze them & push until the square part on the opposite side slides back, to release the black receiver from each fitting. Once you know the brand, you can order another tee assembly & click it on. It’s leaking from a crimped ferrule. These are difficult to remove without damaging the nipple that they’re crimping the hose to, but: if you can succeed in getting it free without damage, you can cut the ferrule section off, and might be able, if there is an actual nipple, to slide the hose back on and secure it with a screw clamp. E: might be a Moen? https://www.build.com/product/summa...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 26, 2024 20:50
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Stain doesn't mean 'brown.' You can put whatever color pigment you want in it. My fence is stained dark green. Huh, today I learned. Can you have them mix up a custom color for you like they can with paints?
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Apr 26, 2024 20:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Huh, today I learned. Can you have them mix up a custom color for you like they can with paints? Yeah, at least with SW they can make the solid wood stains to any of their regular paint colors, custom matches, etc and you're not limited to the "stain colors" chart.
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Apr 26, 2024 21:10
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Final Blog Entry posted:Yeah, at least with SW they can make the solid wood stains to any of their regular paint colors, custom matches, etc and you're not limited to the "stain colors" chart. Awesome, I'll look into that then. Thanks!
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Apr 26, 2024 21:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Awesome, I'll look into that then. Thanks!
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Apr 26, 2024 21:37
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PainterofCrap posted:See those blue tabs at each connection? They’re quick-connects. You squeeze them & push until the square part on the opposite side slides back, to release the black receiver from each fitting. Ah snap thanks! I don't see any markings except these scraps of a label:  The Moen part there looks close-ish. Might try it. Here's the faucet in case anyone recognizes it: 
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Apr 26, 2024 22:13
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https://www.americanstandard-us.com/bathroom-sink-faucets-list maybe it's in block caps and american standard's usually using a script font but they do make faucets, and parts and stuff OMG lol it's a "Cooper standard" quick connector part, which is a company and part used for automotive, marine, RVs, etc. you can see the word "automotive" was at the bottom of the label Moen used it for their flexible "under deck" faucet designs https://solutions.moen.com/Article_Library/Faucet_Hose-Retractable  So, PainterOfCrap is right, it's a Moen faucet. The part number on your scrap doesn't perfectly match up with the page I found but it's so close that it's likely a similar situation of an older part that has newer substitutes. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 26, 2024 22:19
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You are all amazing thank you! The standard threw me down the American rabbit hole as well, haha. But I got stumped there!
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Apr 26, 2024 22:35
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Is there a good way to attach 2x4s to stucco? Feedback from the greater internet varies between "hell yeah just drill into that poo poo" and "no stupid you'll ruin your house." Context - I would like to screen in my covered back patio if reasonable to do so. I'm not looking to do anything fancy, but my cat would love to hang out semi-outside via an existing doggie door. Bugs aren't really a thing here, so it's more about keeping him in than bugs out. To do the whole thing I'd need to anchor to or otherwise account for two columns and the house itself in two places. Probably also the (non-post tensioned) concrete floor, but that I have a slightly better grasp on.
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Apr 27, 2024 03:53
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I assume there are studs behind the stucco. You can screw into those pretty securely. I wouldn't anchor anything to the stucco layer itself.
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Apr 27, 2024 03:56
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It depends on what the stucco's been applied to, there's a couple or three different methods. The stucco on my house is applied directly to thick black construction paper with wires in it, which is laid onto normal wood studs. You can anchor a 2x4 to it no problem if that 2x4 is supported on the ground and won't take any load at all, but if you want to actually do anything with that wood it'll rip out the stucco pretty easily. Which it did. On my house. Because some dumbfuck previous owner just drilled something straight into a quarter inch of stucco and then attached a fence gate to it with the hinges on that side, so all the weight of the fence gate was pulling on it. They anchored the gate post to the ground with nothing at all. It probably tore out immediately, so then to "fix" that, they put a drywall anchor into the hole and just tightened that down. Which probably sorta held for a few years? When I removed that post last fall the drywall anchor was just flopping around loose in a hole an inch wide. Anyway though I believe sometimes stucco is attached to more substantial sheathing and in that case you may get away with screwing through it into that stuff.
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Apr 27, 2024 04:26
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What do you call that wooden thing that looks kind of like a pommel horse, and you can put two of them together to lay your project across them?
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Apr 27, 2024 17:40
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saw horse?
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Apr 27, 2024 17:52
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wesleywillis posted:saw horse? That was it, thanks.
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Apr 27, 2024 17:59
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This braided metal water line under my kitchen sink is leaking, probably. The one that looks like a curly fry. Based on the part number on the label I found the same part at home depot. Is there anything more to replacing this than using some wrenches to remove it, and then swapping it out with the new one and some teflon tape?
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Apr 27, 2024 18:36
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kreeningsons posted:This braided metal water line under my kitchen sink is leaking, probably. The one that looks like a curly fry. Based on the part number on the label I found the same part at home depot. Is there anything more to replacing this than using some wrenches to remove it, and then swapping it out with the new one and some teflon tape? Only the top threads need tape. The bottom connections are compression fittings, which self seal. Other than that, you got it. You could also get stop valves for here if you'd like.
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Apr 27, 2024 20:00
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Inzombiac posted:Anyone have suggestions for deck railings?  Been meaning to post the galvanized pipe rails, but was always on my phone. PC posting easier 
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Apr 27, 2024 21:39
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