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Motronic posted:There is in fact a plumbing thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3131944 Thank you!
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Mar 16, 2024 01:20
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Rakeris posted:Probably going to vary based on the state, if it was Texas for ex. It would be copper as I don't think anything else could be put under a slab. (Had to be brazed, certain compression fittings were only added to code a couple years ago iirc) Thanks!! It turned out not to be a huge deal, seller paying to re-pipe and we won’t have to worry about it at all.
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Mar 16, 2024 01:56
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   Can anyone give me a bit of insight on what is going on with the wall? It started off pretty small but has gotten to this size over the course of two or three years. We had a shelf in front of the whole area and didn't notice it has gotten so large. The specks of white are super powdery and crumbles to the touch, if you rub it between your fingers it turns into a very fine powder. Underneath the paint seems like some sort of sheet rock, its super hard. The house was built in the 30s. My wife is worried it's asbestos, but it's non-fibrous and I'm thinking everything is from moisture from the windows so it is probably efflorescence.
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Mar 17, 2024 23:39
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I’m no expert, but to me it looks like a big case of RIP your plaster
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Mar 17, 2024 23:44
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i like nice words
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Your window is leaking and the inside of that wall is a sodden mess of moldy insulation (which likely means 1930s newspapers since this is plaster) and spongy structural lumber. The wall need to be opened and the leak addressed.
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Mar 17, 2024 23:45
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For small areas of crumbling plaster- over rock lath, not wood slats- is there any reason to repair with actual plaster instead of hot mud? Just a general question, not asking about obi_ant's window
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Mar 17, 2024 23:58
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obi_ant posted:Can anyone give me a bit of insight on what is going on with the wall? You nailed it, it's efflorescence.
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Mar 18, 2024 00:01
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Here I am watching videos about deep-sea turbidites and I switch tabs and find myself looking for alluvial fans and debris channels in your messed-up wall.
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Mar 18, 2024 00:03
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For water-based floor paint, how long before it's safe to walk on it? The paint I'm using has a curing time of 7-10 days. Which is fine, but there's some touch-up work on panels and walls I need to do, and it would be nice to get it done sooner rather than later. E: The surface is wood flooring in rough shape, if it matters.
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Mar 18, 2024 15:28
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Usually the paint can has a 1-800 # you can call the product manufacturer and ask
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Mar 18, 2024 17:24
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I have some lamps with a touch dimmer that has a few different brightness settings. It works fine with incandescent bulbs because I guess the circuit depends on a resistive load, but when I switch them out for LED bulbs it goes haywire. The LED bulbs also glow even when it’s switched “off” due to the current leakage or whatever. Anyone know of any LED bulbs that work ok in lamps like this? Or am I going to have to somehow switch the touch dimmer for a mechanical switch?
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Mar 19, 2024 14:38
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Switch the touch dimmer module. For years the only lamps in my home that still had incandescents were the ones I'd turned into touch lamps with modules, because they didn't make them LED-compatible. Now they do, and they're pretty small too: https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Control-Replacement-Dimmable-Incandescent/dp/B088R822Q2?ref_=ast_sto_dp I used these (you can find them elsewhere) and they have been perfect.
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Mar 19, 2024 15:29
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PainterofCrap posted:Switch the touch dimmer module. Hm thanks but I’m not sure these would fit, the dimmer mechanism is hidden inside some custom injection molded bulb socket that I believe is smaller than this product, and there isn’t any room to conceal the switch in the base which is just a thick piece of metal. I guess I’ll have to get creative.
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Mar 20, 2024 15:17
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Ja I saw how thin the base was. I was wondering if it had a pig-iron or some weight in or under there. There may be enough of a void - I'd check with lighting sites like 1000bulbs & see if there is a micro-sized one. The ones I sent are about the size of a box of matches - much smaller than the ones that they replaced. The alternative is to replace the socket with a 'dumb' one & install an in-line slide dimmer on the cord. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 16:03
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I have a halogen fixture in my bathroom that takes three bulbs and I blow off replacing them until all three are out. Every time I've replaced them, two of them go out almost immediately (within a week) and then the third lasts a year or so. Is this just garbage amazon quality control, or could these be getting destroyed by my own incompetence in installing them and/or power surges from the kitchen next to the bathroom? The color of light they provide is really beautiful in the space so I haven't replaced the fixture and I would honestly like to make them work if possible.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:45
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Corla Plankun posted:I have a halogen fixture in my bathroom that takes three bulbs and I blow off replacing them until all three are out. Every time I've replaced them, two of them go out almost immediately (within a week) and then the third lasts a year or so. Is this just garbage amazon quality control, or could these be getting destroyed by my own incompetence in installing them and/or power surges from the kitchen next to the bathroom? Are you touching the bulbs with your bare hands? If so, that's probably why. Also, there are very nice halogen color corrected LEDs now in a lot of shapes/types. I've replaced several and the color temperature is spot on. 1000bulbs.com is a good place to look, sort by halogen replacement and 90+ CRI for something good.
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Mar 20, 2024 17:14
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Motronic posted:Are you touching the bulbs with your bare hands? If so, that's probably why. Of COURSE there's an LED for this! Thank you. Unfortunately it looks like high-CRI isn't available in my particular socket type but I will try it out anyway. I know about the hand-oils thing and I have been wearing gloves but it is certainly possible that I have been clumsy with 66% of them.
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Mar 20, 2024 19:38
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I inherited (with this house I bought) a basketball goal that is concreted into the ground. The post broke in half a while back now and I want to rip out the remaining post. Dug around it today to uncover the concrete which is about 4ft x 3ft and about 4" thick at the edges, figuring the middle will be a bit thicker. My pickaxe attempts have made me think I'm best off renting an electrical (15amp) "70# Breaker" from the local tool place. I've never used one before, beyond hearing and eye pro, is there anything I should be aware of going into this?
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Mar 21, 2024 01:04
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tangy yet delightful posted:I inherited (with this house I bought) a basketball goal that is concreted into the ground. The post broke in half a while back now and I want to rip out the remaining post. Dug around it today to uncover the concrete which is about 4ft x 3ft and about 4" thick at the edges, figuring the middle will be a bit thicker. My pickaxe attempts have made me think I'm best off renting an electrical (15amp) "70# Breaker" from the local tool place. Wear some gloves. Your hands will be numb for a bit after using it. Doing that for a day isn't likely to cause long term damage but you might tingle for a day or two after.
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Mar 21, 2024 01:23
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tangy yet delightful posted:I inherited (with this house I bought) a basketball goal that is concreted into the ground. The post broke in half a while back now and I want to rip out the remaining post. Dug around it today to uncover the concrete which is about 4ft x 3ft and about 4" thick at the edges, figuring the middle will be a bit thicker. My pickaxe attempts have made me think I'm best off renting an electrical (15amp) "70# Breaker" from the local tool place. If you wanna go full safety conscious: steel toe boots and metatarsal guards won't go far amiss either.
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Mar 21, 2024 01:28
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I bought a pair of vibration-reducing gloves for stuff like that. I think they help? Does anyone else have any experience with them?
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Mar 21, 2024 01:34
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I imagine that you'd want to wear a dust mask, to avoid inhaling pulverized concrete. But I admit I've never used this type of tool before.
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Mar 21, 2024 01:40
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Thanks for the replies. I have gloves, probably won't buy special ones just for this few hours of work. Steel toed boots probably also out, BUT I am looking at getting steel toe caps as that'll be cheaper and the inconvenience factor is whatever for a days work. Dust mask, well I definitely have masks, good call there. I think I'll also have my hose hooked up so I can wet down the concrete and any dust that's starting up as I get my jack on.
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Mar 21, 2024 04:17
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tangy yet delightful posted:Thanks for the replies. I hope you have lots of successful jacking.
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Mar 21, 2024 14:06
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tangy yet delightful posted:Thanks for the replies. Yeah I spent a lot of time sanding before buying them. I had to spend a lot of time undercutting trim with a multitool when we did our upstairs floors and the vibration pain really slowed me down there so I grabbed the gloves pretty much just for that job. Enjoy your hammering!
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Mar 21, 2024 14:13
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I've seen lots of steel tubes cut off flush with concrete instead of trying to dig them out, so keep in mind that may be far less work and a more reasonable option
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Mar 21, 2024 21:09
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Yeah, I’d be real tempted to flush cut it and fill it in.
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Mar 21, 2024 21:15
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Thirded. Dig the concrete out only if you really have to. Otherwise just cut it flush with the ground and pretend the rest isn't there.
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Mar 21, 2024 21:16
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Me, coming across ancient abandoned-in-place poo poo that the contractor 40 years ago didn't bother to redline on some as-builts: 
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Mar 21, 2024 21:22
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Couple of things: already ordered the toe caps, kinda excited to use a jackhammer, boring yard layout and desired future landscape reasons to ideally remove it, oh and the post is filled with concrete so cutting it flush would be slightly more involved too.Arrath posted:Me, coming across ancient abandoned-in-place poo poo that the contractor 40 years ago didn't bother to redline on some as-builts:
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Mar 21, 2024 22:43
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I'm putting up a bat house. The post needs to be at least 10' above ground. I would prefer to have it at least 12'; much above that, it gets unwieldy for me to do seasonal maintenance. Since they may not roost there for at least a year, that will initially be keeping certain winged stinging insects from moving in. The hole is going to have to be at least three feet deep, probably four. Not sure if I can rent an auger to bore that deeply; Home Depot's don't reach three feet. I'm digging in sand at least, rather than clay or rock. I would prefer to not try digging by hand; a four-foot hole would take all day & wipe me out. Renting a Bobcat seems like major overkill. Suggestions? e: after a bit more digging, there's a nifty 3-piece, steel triangular telescoping pole for martins & bat houses. $130 is more than a 4x4x20 post, but at least I won't spend all day trying to select one that's straight, not split & full of knots. No doubt a lot lighter, too, and it can easily be telescoped down for maintenance The directions say to dig a 12" hole 21" deep to plant the socket (the post is removeable) . That does not seem deep enough to me. On the other hand, I don't have to plant a ladder against it and climb my 300-lb self up to work on it - and less than 2' ground anchor is unlikely to handle that kind of lateral loading for long, anyway. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 02:35
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Do you have something that can tow the miniex in my dump trailer or do I need to deliver it?
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Mar 22, 2024 02:39
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Don't think it'll fit in this
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Mar 22, 2024 02:59
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We can just put it in the back if you've got ramps. I'll measure  (that thing is awesome)
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Mar 22, 2024 03:00
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There's a solid 4' between the inner fenders, 7' of bed ahead of the tailgate. I can either rent ramps from Depot or pull the trigger on buying a folding set for $350.00. I have had a 30" trencher in there - and that was before I welded up all of the holes in the bed. What do you think of the depth on the telescoping steel pole? Y-By Rental has an auger that'll go 30" PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 03:03
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm putting up a bat house. I also am looking into building a bat box. I have a 4x4 already set in concrete that is the basis of a length of wooden fence in my back yard. Is there a particular reason I shouldn't look to sister a good 2x4 to it for the mast?
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Mar 22, 2024 03:30
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The general rule of thumb is that 1/3 of the height is buried for anchorage. That gets problematic for a 20' post. For a 6' fence post, that means a 2' hole. You go adding another 12'-15' to that and there's a real question as to how well that'll stay put. On the other hand - as posted above - there's a 15' aluminum bat pole available on Az, that says 21" burial is sufficient. We're talking about a box that's a foot wide, not quite 2' tall, and 4" thick, made of cedar - so the loads on it will chiefly be wind loads as I doubt the thing weighs 10-lbs, so maybe that'll do?
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Mar 22, 2024 03:38
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PainterofCrap posted:There's a solid 4' between the inner fenders, 7' of bed ahead of the tailgate. I can either rent ramps from Depot or pull the trigger on buying a folding set for $350.00. I have had a 30" trencher in there - and that was before I welded up all of the holes in the bed. Lol that would actually fit, but there is nowhere for the boom to go out the back to be tied down (if it had a class 3 hitch a basket in there would work). PainterofCrap posted:What do you think of the depth on the telescoping steel pole? Y-By Rental has an auger that'll go 30" I'm not a sand hog. That wouldn't work here but I don't know if it would in your "soil".
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Mar 22, 2024 03:39
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Do any of your local rental places rent "little beaver" equipment?
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Mar 22, 2024 14:26
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I have a slightly wobbly post on the vinyl picket fence in my front yard. It's only around four feet high, but it is the hinge post for the gate, so it gets a little more stress than the others. I'd say there's roughly a 1 mm gap around the 4x4 right now. It seems like someone tried concrete caulk/sealant in the past, but obviously that didn't last. What would people say is the correct way to reinforce it? Caulk? Concrete? Mortar? Shims?
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Mar 22, 2024 18:28
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