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The main part of my master bathroom is 54" by 56", and then the shower stall attached to it is 38" x 38", for a grand total of 31ft2. And the door opens inward into the bathroom. It is extremely cramped, although the actual tiled shower stall comfortably fits two, if they're very friendly.
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Apr 1, 2024 23:59
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Save some space and put the toilet in the shower
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Apr 2, 2024 00:37
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May as well be really space efficient and make it your vegetable prepa area too.
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Apr 2, 2024 00:40
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Leperflesh posted:The main part of my master bathroom is 54" by 56", and then the shower stall attached to it is 38" x 38", for a grand total of 31ft2. And the door opens inward into the bathroom. It is extremely cramped, although the actual tiled shower stall comfortably fits two, if they're very friendly.  are we?
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Apr 2, 2024 00:48
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6'x6' seems doable and not overly cramped with a standing shower, single sink and the tiniest of toiletry closets or a chimney cabinet or something.
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Apr 2, 2024 00:51
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dupersaurus posted:Save some space and put the toilet in the shower ah, the "Hong Kong apartment bathroom" school of design 
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Apr 2, 2024 00:57
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It works, you just aren't likely to have anywhere to store towels, etc in there. And that too is okay if you have a linen closet or whatever elsewhere. Well designed and thoughful efficency in small spaces is very nice when done correctly.
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Apr 2, 2024 01:01
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Yeah, I’ve used them before and it works. You just can’t keep anything at all in there unless you’re fine with it getting soaking wet, notably including toilet paper. You can get these plastic cover/shields for the roll but it’s not really foolproof. E: in fact there’s a metal(?) one on the wall below the tankless water heater
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Apr 2, 2024 01:19
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When we bought this house in 1992, our chief concern was the size of the bathroom. I re-did it at least three times; first was to ditch the full-depth 3' wide vanity and sink in 1993, and replace it with an IKEA shallow-profile vanity & sink. Eventually tiled the floor in glass  It made a huge difference, and we've gotten used to it. It's the only bathroom in the house, so I put a Pittsburgh toilet in the basement. Second remodel was 2007, tiling the tub surround in ceramic (when the house was built, it was a tub only. PO installed zinc metal tiles over the wallpapered plaster & lath when shower plumbing was added, probably in the early 1950s). I was going to tear out the little closet, but found out it shared framing with the closet on the other side, which is now my office storage closet. No time, it took the alotted six days to demo the plaster & the lovely surrounds I'd been using, install new rough-in, cement board for the shower, and tile Photo is after the last remodel in 2011. tiled the floor, fabricated baseboard & trim, panel the lower walls in painted T&G pine, painted everything, and put it all back and clean it all up before my wife got back from her herb convention. Each renovation is done when my wife is out of town. Usually have 5-6-days. I was pulling the vanity while her car was backing out of the driveway. FYI I know there's a lot of dislike for IKEA stuff but the vanity door/mirror has been up over 20-years, the vanity, sink & faucet date to 2005 and have never been a moment's trouble. I picked up another sink basin in 2012 because the OG is crazing all over the basin. Just used plumber-supply-grade heavier brass drain tailpiece & trap. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 01:54
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Apr 2, 2024 03:01
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Fuckin' yikes. They actually sell a double- track kit for under-height doors. I'd see them all the time in Philadelphia rowhomes that actually have garages on the ground floor.  Some of the openings were barely six feet high; I'd have to duck my head to enter the garage space.
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Apr 2, 2024 03:10
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We just use real doors.
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Apr 2, 2024 03:32
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Apr 2, 2024 06:25
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Motronic posted:It looks pretty old, so the plastic is likely brittle. It may break. That won't stop it from working. Get something thin around the edges to make sure it's not stuck to the paint and then try pulling it down. They are generally just held into the body of the fan with spring clips to provide tension. Pulling/prying straight down gently should get it loose. Okay, the cover came off with no problem or breakage and I was able to get it off and take a look at the unit. It looks like the inner mount comes all the way out (left it in for the time being) and I can just pull out the fan and motor as a unit and take it to a hardware store where they can recommend an appropriate replacement. Meanwhile the motor just plugs into a two-prong AC socket in the mount so I unplugged the bastard. Now it doesn't turn on with the light and make godawful noise so the issue is a little less urgent. Thanks for the help!
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Apr 2, 2024 06:37
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I like how you can see they got nervous after the first cut and decided to leave an extra couple of inches of beam on the next 3. e: That or it took them a while to figure out how to control the jigsaw or whatever it is they used Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 06:56
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I think its just from when the top piece of the door goes over the peak of the bend, its a little bit higher than the overall height.
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Apr 2, 2024 11:32
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This is going to mentally ruin several of the friends I just sent this to. e: one just instantly replied with this, complete uno reverse here. 
That Works fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 12:21
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Do we call this step-sistering instead of sistering? When you find out your dad was a sperm donor and you have a biological sister you have no emotional familial connection to? It's always wild when people get it so close to right but its incredibly wrong e: I guess since there's a concrete wall behind it the studs aren't even structural but it still just looks so wrong Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 14:42
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I have a phantom drip. Right above my closet is the bathtub in the main floor bathroom. Every so often a couple of drops of water will come down. Nothing huge , no damage being caused. All of the related pipes are exposed and are bone dry. I can't figure out the source. It's also wildly inconsistent. I've hung out for the full duration of someone's shower and nothing would happen but then I'd look at some other time and there would be a couple drops of water, clearly from that area. No cracks in the tub, the seals are in good condition... Are there color-changing wraps I can put around the pipes that'll show who is leaking?
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Apr 2, 2024 15:03
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I want to mount a modem directly onto the wall. It has 2 screw brackets on the back. What is the best way to determine where to put the screws so they line up properly with the modem? Currently considering jamming two stubby screw in the brackets and drilling where they make an impression in the wall. Plan B is to order the manufacturer's own shelf bracket, but it's not very discreet.
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Apr 2, 2024 16:16
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Put a piece of paper on the back of the modem, then rub over it with a pencil or stick of graphite (if you have one) to make an impression of where the mounting holes are. Use the paper as a template on the wall.
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Apr 2, 2024 16:18
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Inzombiac posted:I have a phantom drip.
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Apr 2, 2024 17:18
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Fruits of the sea posted:I want to mount a modem directly onto the wall. It has 2 screw brackets on the back. What is the best way to determine where to put the screws so they line up properly with the modem? Currently considering jamming two stubby screw in the brackets and drilling where they make an impression in the wall. If I'm understanding the problem correctly: 1. Measure the distance between the centerpoint of the two holes 2. Mark one spot on your wall, mark the other spot at the same distance as what you measured 3. Use a level to make sure the two points are level, adjust 2nd mark up/down as needed
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Apr 2, 2024 17:52
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Inzombiac posted:I have a phantom drip. Wrap em in toilet paper, that will make it obvious
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Apr 2, 2024 17:59
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Fruits of the sea posted:I want to mount a modem directly onto the wall. It has 2 screw brackets on the back. What is the best way to determine where to put the screws so they line up properly with the modem? Currently considering jamming two stubby screw in the brackets and drilling where they make an impression in the wall. Someone gave me a set of these as a random gift a few years ago, and I don't use them often but when I do it makes mounting stuff to the wall incredibly easy. Up to you if it's worth it in the long run at the price. I'd buy them again now. One of those little convenient gadgets that turns something minorly obnoxious into a simple no-sweat thing. https://a.co/d/aR8yCny Lemniscate Blue fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 18:07
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I did put a device on a scanner, scan and print at the same dpi once. Don't forget to flip the image. Works really well, though a bit wasteful and needlessly technological. I did need more from it than just the location of two holes though.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do we call this step-sistering instead of sistering? When you find out your dad was a sperm donor and you have a biological sister you have no emotional familial connection to?
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Apr 2, 2024 18:47
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Not Wolverine posted:I'm not sure that is a load bearing concrete wall. It looks like a concrete wall but there are a few things that seem off. What's going on at the base of the wall, there is a strip of something like right above the sill plate, and the white spots look like it could be drywall paper that came off. Also, why were some of the studs originally doubled? I would guess the strip is for a French drain. The flakes are probably paint on concrete that's starting to flake off. Assuming that is what it is, it's no big deal, since they're covering the concrete over anyway.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:50
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canyoneer posted:Wrap em in toilet paper, that will make it obvious Well drat, that is a good idea. One fun thing about home ownership is overthinking everything!
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Apr 2, 2024 19:13
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Thanks for the mounting advice thread! Paper or scanning is a fun trick. I just painted the walls and it hurts a little inside every time I mark them unnecessarily. I got impatient and made a pattern - measuring and marking on a spare bit of panel, supporting it with a level against the wall and drilling through it. But those are some faster solutions for the next time around. e:"impatient" is ironic because I chose probably the slowest, most painstaking way to accomplish this tiny task. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 21:05
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I just take a piece of paper, put it on the side with the holes, poke a pencil through, put that on the wall, level and then drill. Takes no time at all.
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Apr 2, 2024 21:26
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Can I ask about small engines here? I have an ATV that needs a new carburetor. I’ve taken off the old one, dismantled and cleaned it and put it back on. The atv starts, but floods and doesn’t run well. The exhaust also became red hot quite quickly. I bought a new carburetor for it.   Here’s a video of me looking at the carburetor as it sits on the ATV. https://files.catbox.moe/ufmp5r.mov I have labeled the tubes for discussion.    I’m confused because there are more hoses on the new carburetor than I have spots for, so I don’t know where to put them. I know the rough anatomy of an ATV after lots of reading online. I don’t know what each part of this carburetor is supposed to lead to. I also don’t know if the thing was ever installed correctly or if I missed things, so it’s very possible the labeled tubes are going to the wrong places currently. Can someone tell me where I should plug in each hose? tuyop fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 2, 2024 |
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Apr 2, 2024 22:33
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You're probably looking for the AI small engine thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147tuyop posted:I’m confused because there are more hoses on the new carburetor than I have spots for, so I don’t know where to put them. Sounds like you bought the wrong part. Perhaps it can be made to work, but buying the correct part is better. FYI: do not throw away the old parts. Replacement carbs are largely garbage. A new correct one may work for a while, but you very well may want to go back and fix the old one once you getr some more information and experience and have a working replacement to compare it to.
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Apr 2, 2024 22:37
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Motronic posted:You're probably looking for the AI small engine thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147 Thanks I’ll crosspost there! I’m almost certain it’s the same carburetor though, just the one on the atv is missing tubes.
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Apr 2, 2024 22:40
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tuyop posted:Thanks I’ll crosspost there! I’m almost certain it’s the same carburetor though, just the one on the atv is missing tubes. Don't worry about hoses. Compare the ports on each carb. If there are hoses on the new one where the old one has a plugged port just take off the hose and plug the port. At least for now.......that doesn't look like you're the first one in there so there is a high chance it's all wrong and you need to find service data to see how it's supposed to be.
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Apr 2, 2024 22:44
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A lot of those are vents/drains and don't necessarily need hoses (but it'd be good to put them on). The hoses will just hang loose, not connected on the other end
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Apr 3, 2024 02:27
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This is the insulation on one of the hoses for my AC. It's pretty badly decayed. I assume I can just buy new insulation, cut the old stuff out, and put the new in, right? Is there a specific product I should be looking for, or is anything of the right diameter appropriate?
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Apr 5, 2024 16:14
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OK, I officially give up on math. I need help. I'm building a chicken coop/run, and I absolutely cannot figure out the angles for the roof. The bottom width of that roofline is 48 inches, and I'd like the peak to be 36 inches up from there. Playing with a triangle calculator, I get this, which will give me the 36 inch height that I want.  So the top miters would be basically 33 degrees (I'm shooting for Boeing level accuracy, not NASA), but I can't figure out the bottom angles. Would it just be the 56 degrees? If so, uh, thanks, I think I just needed to type this all out to make heads or tails of it versus standing in the yard holding wood and mumbling swear words.
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Apr 8, 2024 01:58
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Slugworth posted:OK, I officially give up on math. I need help. I'm building a chicken coop/run, and I absolutely cannot figure out the angles for the roof. If you go with 66° at the top, you need 114° out of the bottom (angles must add to 180). That's 57° each Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 02:17
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Deteriorata posted:If you go with 66° at the top, you need 114° out of the bottom (angles must add to 180). That's 57° each and half of that is 28.5° for the miter. Edit, your edit beat my response. Cool! I essentially made the same mistake you did and was loving myself up.
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Apr 8, 2024 02:26
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