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Pick 2 You can fix it fast, cheap or good.
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Oct 18, 2020 12:24
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wesleywillis posted:Boob light base? Ceiling fan medallion. To commemorate the time you said fuckit I'm not going to deal with this poo poo.
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Oct 21, 2020 00:19
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I have a bigass ugly one in my bedroom because they sucked at running the wire and just went whelp..
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Oct 21, 2020 00:55
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If it isn't spinning or the pump isn't pumping the water out it's very likely the control board. I'm not familiar with your exact machine but usually it's just a motor, belt and pulley there's no transmission. If it's failing to drain and the pump looks okay then most likely it is the control panel/ board.
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Nov 13, 2020 12:30
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yippee cahier posted:How deep is that drywall screw? Wait for the plumber before answering... My sentimonies exactly!
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Nov 14, 2020 02:44
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nwin posted:Any ideas? There really isn't much more The main way to reduce water ingress is to get the water away from the house. Step 1 proper grading away from the house. In your case. Step 2. Get that sump pump from dumping water close to the house.
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Nov 14, 2020 15:00
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nwin posted:Yeah here’s a horrible drawing I made looking at it from the side. You'd want to grade everything away from the house and not put a sump pump anywhere outside. You should not have that section of diet that dips down by your foundation..
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Nov 14, 2020 18:44
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Yes make sure there is no power to the tree before touching anything.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:30
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You can buy a lot of different color temps so find an led with the one she likes?
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Nov 24, 2020 03:07
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Hed posted:For times when I know I’m going to be working with it, I just throw cardboard boxes from the recycling under the pan and plug. yep I have cardboard for under the car.. and use it under my genny when running the leaky magnetic oil plug
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Dec 4, 2020 22:18
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Also look at the flame sensor (but again that doesn't make a ton of sense. A pilot sensor senses that the pilot light is lit and heating the thermocouple and if not it kills the gas supply. You may also have a flame sensor thermocouple style sensor that will identify I'd the furnace is lit once it sends full gas to the burners so it's not just dumping gas into your house. It seems weird that it's not erroring and all you need to do is switch the thermostat off and kn and especially if you aren't doing something like powering the furnace on / off with it's mains switch. It may be in some kind of lockout mode and is ignoring the constant call for heat Edit: a test is once it fails to fire turn the thermostat down and back up to see if what it does and how it reacts. Does it spin up and try to fire and kick off after 10 seconds or so. Does it run for a bit the stop. Does it still just do nothing until you turn off the thermostat. This will help diagnose. It might be intermittent so stopping the heat call then starting it again works. (Look up to see how to see the error codes on your furnace and see if you're looking in the right place) (if yours has an error light) tater_salad fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 03:18
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Wow seventy three... Like got damned summer.... Yeah if you pull out your old thermostat and swap them you'll find that there's a difference in temp and feeling. Get a third thermometer and you'll see they all probably report differently. My thermostat is about 2° off from a thermometer I have. I just set it to what feels good and go from there. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 02:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:My Honeywell Lyric thermostat has this "circulate" mode which is perfect for this. If the system hasn't called for heat or cooling for too long, it runs the fan for a bit. I have a Honeywell T9 that does this. The app and thermostat are okay but have issues. Sometimes it doesn't think I'm home. I have it set to keep the bedroom at x temp at night instead of the main living area. But when it 'preheats' to get to the specific temp by 6am... It doesn't switch to the main living area sensor so it gets mighty hot since my bedroom has old leaky windows and is the furthest run from the furnace.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:11
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Not a window expert but you can just leave the metal bracket out of that bit and close it. It won't really stay up when you open it but it's winter and it won't matter. I hate dealing with those things especially if one shoots out /up when you pull the whole window out. I had a few in my house where the window wasn't in that bit and it was highly annoying. It takes me 20 mins of fighting to get it back properly.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:17
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wesleywillis posted:Do people really have dishwashers that run for 2.5 hrs? My low tier bosch is 2 hrs to run from start to finish. I feel like the last 30-45 is dry time. Also it's really not an issue. I usually run mine at night or in the morning after work from home breakfast. Really doesn't bother me at all.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:18
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1. Unsure, how far is the next closest stud? 2. Those are 'furring strips' and are 100% there to attach ceiling tile too no need to ask an engineer.
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Dec 30, 2020 12:10
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Harold Fjord posted:Any quick tips on identifying what piece of my furnace makes a super loud bang noise as it heats up and cools down and ways to reduce the sound? Our new dog is pretty sensitive and it freaks him out every time it happens. Can you record this bang so we can identify it could be lots of things. Maybe your fan isn't secured and when it spins up it's banging Sheetmetal and then centers when it gets up to speed? Motor may be off the mounts so it's clunking around when starting up. Maybe a squirrel is hanging out in there and running away when the heat turns on and hitting his head somewhere in your vents. Id' check fan/ motor / pulleys first as those are the larger moving mechanical parts in a furnace, and I'd not expect relays or the gas actuator to cause enough of a noise to scare the dog.
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Jan 8, 2021 16:50
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Harold Fjord posted:Oh I strongly suspect based on the timing that it is an expansion/contraction shape change of something due to temp, like when my lovely cookie sheet pops in the oven. But I'll try and get a recording if it's "tin canning" or "Oil canning" then calling an Hvac guy to properly craft your ducts so they don't do that.. or reinforce where it's coming from. https://www.moneypit.com/fix-banging-furnace-ducts/
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Jan 9, 2021 01:24
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Blackchamber posted:My doorbell doesn't work. The previous owner was using one of those wireless transmitter ones stuck over the original. I checked the wires for power with a multimeter where the switch used to be and at the transformer and both spots are dead. I could try finding where the power cable that should be tied into the transformer ends and why its not working anymore but I don't really want to use the old doorbell at all really. I bought one of those smart video doorbells and if my wiring had worked would have provided power as an alternative to the built in battery that would need topping off now and then. The benefit of having it wired is the doorbell can be in a more active recording mode. can you take a pic of the transformer and the wires running to/from it? I wouldn't really recommend splicing in a USB connection on both sides and runnign it it off of the powerbank, you'll end up with some voltage drop, and likely will drian the USB powercell somewhat quickly as it'll just keep tryign to "top off" the doorbell on a regular basis.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:54
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Tenik posted:Cross posting this from the Electronics thread: sounds like your input jack on your headphones is broken, it's either not making contact to each "side" or it's broken and jumping across the 2 separations on the post.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:29
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Professor Shark posted:I just phoned Napoleon- apparently no lid is necessary do you have the ash tray? I'm assuming you do.. if not you'd want a lid.
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Feb 16, 2021 14:40
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there should be a shutoff for your faucet kind of close inside. I'd recommend using that, and keeping your faucet closed (or open if your shutoff isn't letting water drip). You're faucet is probably dripping a little bit especially if the packing nut has now shrunk due to the cold. If your packing nut is shot then you'll need to replace it. I live in the northeast and part of the winterizing routine is shut the water off inside the house, open the faucet and just let the pipe drain out and then close it up (or leave it open if your indoor shutoff is working 100%) edit: I know people who have used these covers but in my 38 years in the frozen winter tundra never used it and haven't ever had a problem even when we had a February that never saw double digit temps. The only time I've ever seen an issue was when we forgot to do the shutoff and drain for a faucet that ran under our deck, the ice made quick work of the PVC pipe. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Feb 16, 2021 |
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Feb 16, 2021 22:07
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Yeah, I was going to ask about a shutoff inside, but wasn't sure if those shutoffs are as accessible somewhere that freezing temps are national news. Inside shutoff has gotten us through many winters with no issues, including the last 10 days where we barely got above 0F. ideally there should be some kind of indoor shutoff somewhere so you can replace the fixture but see also "previous owner" and or "lovely builders cutting corners"
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Feb 16, 2021 22:24
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Yeah I guess it's location specific but in every home I"ve owned (all in Northeast) there's a shutoff for fixtures that aren't the fixtures themselves.. Like my current home my upstairs bathroom has the normal shutoffs but even stuff like washer / kitchen sink etc all have a shutoff in the basement somewhere. I'm pretty sure my 2nd floor bathroom also has shutoffs in the basement as well. the only house I never had that on was a lovely 1900s farm house with a crawlspace under the addition that was the only place with plumbing wherein the main shutoff was pretty much it for the whole house but that house was not very good.
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Feb 16, 2021 23:11
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porkface posted:Nothing in the circuit breaker box. Here's everything I can see: this is terrible and unsafe. looks like the one switch disconnects the furnace from the main power and the other one takes an energized double ended plug (bad idea) and when you flip the switch on it feeds power from the plug to the furnace wires, and you better have that other switch off your you're backfeeding your panel and going to melt that switch I have seen in the northeast furnaces wired up this way. Main power to 1 outlet plug. Furnace wired to a plug that plugs into that outlet. this way in the event of a power loss you can now pug your furnace into a properly rated extension cord.
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Feb 17, 2021 18:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I just went to take a shower, was clearing out the cold water in the pipes, when I heard a "thunk" sound and stopped getting hot water to my shower. The sink still gets hot water, the shower still gets cold water, but when I transition the shower from cold to hot water, the flow rate slows to a trickle. handle should unscrew somehow. Maybe unscrew the actual handle part by twisting, and find a set-screw for the rest behind it? tater_salad fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Feb 19, 2021 |
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Feb 19, 2021 17:59
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there is 100% a way to get it off without dremeling the whole thing off.. there's a set screw in there somewhere to release the cover around it.
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Feb 19, 2021 19:59
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SkyeAuroline posted:Requesting a moment of humoring a dumb question while I fight with my landlord to get poo poo fixed here. My heat in my apartment is not great, nor is it helped by imperfect insulation. All that said, I've tracked down another problem - a poorly mounted vent that's leaking a lot of the hot air my "furnace" (Apollo HydroHeat, it's basically a hot water radiator inside a forced air unit) generates into the mechanical closet instead of sending it up the vent. Which is probably why my "hot air vents" are putting out 72 F air to try and maintain 70 F, and why it's constantly running. From looking it over, it looks like one side isn't all the way down, and the air that leaks is coming from that corner and shooting straight out. The little bit of air leaking around the Air handler and your ducts is not going to make that much difference. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 20:51
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You can try and replace the seal if you can find a replacement, also it's 37 years old even a good nice quality one is going to die at some point. You can also attempt to clean the coils if they have accumulated an assload of hair / dust etc they'll be less efficient (if you can get to them)
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Mar 1, 2021 14:57
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Lawnie posted:For sure will be using wall plates. these speakers wont use a banna plug way to small. you can just directly put the wire in the spring clip or use the pin connector.
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Mar 6, 2021 20:20
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To add. Ask for a stack of their cards so you can provide others their details. And leave reviews.
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Mar 8, 2021 22:06
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stinkypete posted:I am looking into buying a small air compressor for filling up tires and running an angle grinder. I keep seeing the gallon size of the tank and how many PSI it can provide. If I bought a small compressor and started buying electric tools instead of pneumatic would I be making a smart buy? You need to be comitted to a decent size tank if you wanna run air tools like a grinder or a metal nibbler, or impact wrench. You can get some good torque and use out of compressed air tools but you're going to need around a 20 gallon compressor rated at around 4cfm at ~80 psi to get any use out of it. 50 is probably a bit more realistic depending on how often you want it to run. Or as stealie said go electric, you can get some good lectric and battery powered impact wrenches and grinders etc without going air. Grab a pancake for running your trim nailer occasionally and to fill tires.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:16
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stinkypete posted:Thank you, that helps me with my decision. Ohhhhb you wanna paint well that might change things but I'll let someone else advise on that as I'm not really going to be able to speak on air vs airless devices. No 2 days about it youte gunna need to mask up your area and your body. No matter what you've got an aerosol of paint in the air. Get the green tape (gator I think) I've always had better luck with it. Use manageable pieces, don't so a whole wall in a run. I usually do 75% of my wingspan max if it's a good flat and square area. Honestly get some good cut in brushes and then just roll it unless you're doing something outside or oddly shaped like siding or something.
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Mar 9, 2021 05:11
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CzarChasm posted:Two questions. First, I have a small set of stairs going out my back door and into my yard - 3 stairs and maybe a 3x3 landing. Last year, during summer I applied some self adhesive no slip tape to try and help with icing. It worked OK for a while, but when clearing off snow one morning, the whole strip came off two steps like it was nothing. I followed the instructions, made sure the wood was clean and dry, not too hot or cold out when putting the tape on, and it is outdoor rated, maybe the adhesive is just weak? I was thinking of instead taking some resin and mixing in some pea gravel or something with a bit of grip and applying a layer to the steps. Good idea? Bad idea? I know it would be a bit more permanent, but I'll probably be replacing the boards in a few years anyway. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BPL2G8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i'm using this on my stairs and it seems to work pretty well, it lasted the whole winter on my shittily painted stairs (lookiung at you PO) even with shoveling. I applied when it wasn't very warm out and I just kind of wiped the stairs with a broom quick before applying. I basically wanted to show I provided  in case amazon fell on my stairs.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Mar 12, 2021 |
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Mar 12, 2021 22:14
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Less Fat Luke posted:Yeah I removed everything covering the top but then realized it's so solid I'd have to keep digging down. For now since the drainage is good I'm going to just add a silicon cover to catch hair and prevent buildup. "homeownership thread: a recurring theme is "Looks nice and is impossible to maintain"
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Mar 19, 2021 21:03
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Corla Plankun posted:Is there any material I could build some raised garden beds out of that wouldn't be bitten by the "everything is sold out/marked-up" pandemic supply issues? Cedar: which isn't super useful in home construction No clue how well these will hold up for long term as we just assembled ours and are waiting for dirt. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Greenes-Fence-4-ft-x-8-ft-x-7-10-5-in-Original-Cedar-Raised-Garden-Bed-RC-4C8T2/202520864 they have severalsifferent sizes.
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Mar 27, 2021 21:41
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Specs say 96 inches so I'd take it back and be like WTF.
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Mar 29, 2021 11:05
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GD_American posted:Try to keep the Lowe's and Home Depot ones separate. You'll fail anyway, but try One bucket from each company...
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Apr 2, 2021 16:18
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Don't spray wd-40 etc, make sure it's a dry lube.
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Apr 2, 2021 23:39
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone want to help me diagnose my riding mower engine that won't start? It's a Kohler 7000-series in a cub cadet. what does your multimeter do if you set it to DC and bridge + and - on battery? your battery is most likely dead / your connections are bad.. so get a wire brush and clean the contacts on the battery and on the terminals, Check for the grounds to ensure it's in place and working properly. "starter assist mode" of 60a might not be anywhere near enough since it seems like the 25HP motor needs 300CCA Clicking generally means it's about to start but doesn't have the juice. shorting out the starter and it not actually being able to do that makes me think the battery isn't that great. If this was me I'd 100% try and get a replacement battery / get my battery tested prior to dealing with starters etc. Especially considering you did a manual attempt to start by jumping battery directly to starter. edit: I'm not sure about fancy rear end mowers with big motors but maybe there's a low voltage cutoff that keeps you from burning up your starter with low voltage. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 19:44
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