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Bioshuffle posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-Round-Heavy-Duty-Wall-Vent-with-Damper-in-White-HDWV4W/301762209 Not standard but I'd bet 4". Ideally you'd get it measured or identified by some means (e.g. determine make of a exhaust fan and look up specs). Of course you won't know for sure till you open it. It does seem odd there's no screw holes but I'd still use metal screws as needed + caulk the seam. Any reason a smaller plastic vent cover wouldn't suffice?
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Oct 27, 2020 16:31
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Any thoughts on thermal barrier for spray foam in joist bays? Here in Ontario (most places I imagine), drywall needs to cover spray foam insulation. Everywhere but my utility room will have a full ceiling so its fine, but there just the walls were to be drywall. Wondering if anyone can think of any alternatives?
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Oct 28, 2020 22:40
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Final Blog Entry posted:There are coatings to apply directly to it. Not sure about availability in Canada but I sell Flame Control Coatings' 60-60A and IFTI's DC315 on occasion at work, both of which are intumescent coatings for direct application to spray foam insulation. They need to be sprayed on at significant millage to meet required burn time rating. Thanks! I had looked into similar things but they seemed pricey. I just asked our installers and, to my surprise, apparently r22 roxul counts as a thermal barrier so I'll be installing that over it. It should fit. If not, apparently roxul comfort boards at 2" or 3" also qualifies.
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Oct 29, 2020 02:27
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Are there general guidelines on the type of vent cover to use? E.g. fixed vs movable louvers for bathroom fan exhaust or dryer? I'm replacing some and bought the same movable louvered pieces for dryer and bathroom, and noticed the previous bathroom used a fixed style. Wondering if I ought to be concerned.
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Oct 31, 2020 14:23
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Anyone have any neat suggestions on what to do what two dozen 10"-16" 2x4 pieces? Wondering if there are any cool little projects I might tackle with all my scraps.
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Nov 5, 2020 13:58
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Guess who misjudged the thickness of his subfloor and has two small children holes in his hardwood from screwing upwards? What's the best way to fill such a hole - it's a light hardwood, was refinished last year. Is there a wood filler/epoxy kind of thing??
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Nov 9, 2020 00:09
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Awesome! All great news. Thanks everyone.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:57
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Anyone got any tricks for extremely stubborn caulk? Over the past few days we've tried: - scraping - cutting - goo off - mineral spirits - multi-tool w/scraper - wire brush It's a gap between aluminum trim and concrete, probably 20 years old. I believe a silicone caulk. The uneven-ness in the concrete seems particularly problematic. Most of its gone but there's residue remaining and I'm a bit worried the re-caulk won't take. The only things I've seen that I've not tried are hair dryer/heat-gun and angle grinder. I don't have either so I thought I'd ask here before buying. The grinder worries me since its over two materials, and I don't think I'd use a heat gun ever for anything. Jenkl fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Nov 12, 2020 03:00
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wesleywillis posted:Oscillating mulit tool? That's in the list (after my sneaky typo edit...)
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Nov 12, 2020 13:37
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Motronic posted:You can literally cut through metal or stone with a proper oscillating multitool and the correct blade. Something's not right if you're saying you've tried one and it didn't work. This is either a tool, bit or technique problem. Ive used the osc. multi-tool w/ scraper. Its what I used to get the majority of it off. The uneven concrete makes some spots impossible to get to with the scraper - can't get it flush. It's also pretty rough on the aluminum trim - but I'm not nearly as concerned as that since it'll be covered by new caulk so scrapes aren't an issue. Are you suggesting I cut out the problem parts with a concrete blade? I'd not considered that yet, looking to try the drill wire brush first. Any obvious technique problems I might be having? In my mind I'm using as intended but I'm not exactly red green. Jenkl fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Nov 12, 2020 17:42
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Toebone posted:I'd try a dremel or drill with a wire brush. An angle grinder seems a bit excessive for caulk. Went out and bought wire brush attachment for drill over lunch, and tested, and it looks like this will be the winner. It gets into nooks and crannies I couldn't get into with the scraper. Thanks, and thanks to Mo and wes for the suggestions too!
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Nov 12, 2020 19:37
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Caulk talk continues. I've got to reseal a direct vent fireplace exhaust. It runs through concrete. The vent cover is attached to same concrete. I had picked up daps rtv silicone, the high temp for filling between the vent and the concrete inside the hole (it's a poo poo hole) and the regular/hvac for the edges of the vent cover. I've since read these may not be appropriate for "cementitious" surfaces, which (perhaps wrongly) I'm assuming includes concrete. Are there any good caulks/sealants for this job? High temperature application between concrete and metal?
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Nov 13, 2020 21:35
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Final Blog Entry posted:How hot do you suppose it will get? Polyurethane caulk like Sonneborn NP1, Vulkem, or Sherwin Williams Loxon S1/H1 are fantastic for masonry to metal joints. Data sheets say the cured products are good up to 180*F but I'm guessing that may not cut it for your needs. Yeah I'm not completely sure but am thinking 190-200f would be safe. 180 might do it but it leaves me slightly uncomfortable given that I don't actually know what I'm talking about. It's direct vent gas fireplace, so it's about 4' from the fire, with the dual intake/exhaust pipe - so the actual caulked surface is slightly buffered by intake air. Still, the vent cover on my other one is hot to the touch when it's idling, but not burn you on contact.
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Nov 14, 2020 01:14
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Does a pressure treated bottom plate on concrete in a basement need to have its end treated if cut? It's close but not really on the concrete... but is it too close?
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Nov 15, 2020 03:47
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Yeah there's plastic under the PT, all fasteners are appropriate (hot dipped for studs tapcons for baseeplate to floor). I just saw the end cut and it got me wondering how close is close when it comes to wood picking up moisture.
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Nov 15, 2020 14:56
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Yeah that looks like a phone or Ethernet jack.
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Nov 17, 2020 03:13
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Bad Munki posted:Waterproofed comms hookup for an RV or similar? Perhaps we have a winner? https://www.amazon.ca/ASICPICRJ45S-...432836390&psc=1
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Nov 17, 2020 13:52
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Vapour barrier question: For where wires pass through, tuck tape or acoustical?
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Nov 18, 2020 02:56
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Motronic posted:While we're doing building 101 class, please make sure you aren't putting anything other than corrosion resistant fasteners into this PT lubmer. Hot dipped zinc, galvanized, stainless....... You know, this was gnawing at me a bit. So the nails used are definitely hot galvanized. But the screws I used for some of the studs->plate connection are "yellow zinc plated." I'm reading that's not quite the same as a hot dipped zinc and wanted to run it by y'all. Specifically it's these: https://www.homehardware.ca/en/300-pack-8-x-3-yellow-zinc-plated-all-purpose-screws/p/2182441 I'm thinking I might have some screws to change out? Any thoughts Motronic and co.? The only thing I see on the local home depot site that says it's for treated wood would be something like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin--9-x-2-1-2-inch-star-drive-grk-r4-tm-multi-purpose-framing-screws/1000739588. That one concerns me since it just says yellow zinc. That and decking screws all say ok for PT. Also, side question: for vapour barriers, where wires penetrate, is tape gonna do it or should I embed in acoustical? Thanks!!!
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Nov 19, 2020 03:08
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Motronic posted:Yellow zinc is an electroplated fastener, not a hot dip and is not appropriate for outdoor use and I sure as hell wouldn't use them even indoors into pressure treated either. Sucks but rather fix it now than deal with it later. Thanks. The walls are still open I've got a couple weeks before this would be unfixable.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:13
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These are partition walls so I'm not so concerned as to use angle bracket. This shouldn't take me too long actually, and I had to go to HD to return something anyways  .Edit: and thanks hed am currently geeking out Jenkl fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 04:38
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Hey how big a deal would using fine threaded drywall screws in wood be? I need about 400 fine for some metal studs, 2700 coarse for the rest, but just the way they sell the drat things I can get that by the pound for 50 bucks, or 8000 fine for 55...
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Nov 25, 2020 01:24
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actionjackson posted:I know this is city-specific, but does it seem strange that my city would need to do an inspection of my newly installed water heater, but not on my newly installed A/C or furnace? The little card mentions the following that need inspections in the mail That's somewhat consistent with my city. Water heater is plumbing so gets inspected. Here a furnace gets inspected but I think even that may be new. No A/C inspection.
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Nov 26, 2020 00:50
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I just patched some drywall in a bathroom. Is there any reason, e.g. moisture issues, that would necessitate priming it? I'd rather not have to paint/prime as we're prepping a larger scale job in there for later.
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Nov 26, 2020 02:46
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Elviscat posted:I would prime it for exactly that reason. Yeah eh? It's basically just three coats of mud, no exposed paper... but I guess it's pretty porous and can get to that organic goodness anyway. Shoot. Thanks Elvis.
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Nov 26, 2020 04:18
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Motronic posted:Quarter turn. Soldered. Hey I'm only using them where easily accessed! Why are you attacking me?!
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Nov 28, 2020 00:55
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Ive seen the green fiba tape for green board, which makes sense to not have paper where it's exposed to water, but is there special mud for use with mold resistant drywall?
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Nov 30, 2020 03:07
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Is it possible to repair subfloor from below without ripping up flooring? Looks like some rot around a toilet flange from a leaky toilet. I'm in the process of repairing that, but want to know what I can do about the subfloor while I have the toilet up. I have access from below.   The bathroom floor is vinyl plank, and based on the install elsewhere in the home, I suspect is just floating on the subfloor. This makes me think a repair is doable from below.
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Dec 2, 2020 17:33
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm failing to see what your plan is. Magic? I have no plan, just hopes and prayers. I was thinking of trying to shimmy two pieces in, and using some additional lumber to brace from below. And then to make the second piece fit, I'd cut it in half and slide it in... and then to get it's second piece to fit... wait... gently caress... It's just like, right there. It feels like I oughta be able to fix it from there.
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Dec 2, 2020 17:58
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Thanks for the reality check folks. I'll just aim to pull the floor up. I believe vinyl plank has a sort of tongue and groove snap system so it shouldn't be that bad to do. The area is small as well.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:54
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H110Hawk posted:Sounds like you might be super lucky and won't have to demolish tile to fix it. I have said ring, but paused before fixing because a) I discovered the water shut off valve itself isn't working so I had to get a replacement for it and b) some masons doing work needed my water over the last couple days so I couldn't shut it off. In the mean time, I figured since I'd be pulling up the toilet to access, I might as well figure that piece out.
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Dec 2, 2020 18:57
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That being said, I don't know that I would bother for that small amount of damage assuming you have fixed and sealed the flange and put in a silicone ring instead of a wax one. Keep an eye on it.
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Motronic posted:If it's LVT or similar all you need to do is pull the (likely quarter round) trim on one side and start un-snapping pieces. Keep them in order and toss them right on back how they came out when you're done fixing the floor. It's under the vanity 
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Dec 2, 2020 19:03
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Already have one! Thats how I planned to cut the structural defect into my bathroom floor . My mental block now is that we intend to redo this bathroom in the relatively near future. Having pulled the toilet, floor, and vanity, it's hard to put it all back temporarily knowing you're just gonna do it all again. Still, I'm on an anti-rot crusade right now. I think that alone justifies the work. Especially since I don't have a concrete plan for when the re-do will happen.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:20
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Slugworth posted:I would not replace that right now if you're planning on redoing the bathroom in the sometime soon future. Unless it's noticeably soft, or actively spreading, it's pretty minor damage. Honestly, if you weren't redoing the bathroom, I'd probably not ever bother replacing it. There's a certain wet smell in the bathroom I want to get rid of. I assume from the leak but might be something else going on. If I wasn't planning on remodelling it, I'd still be looking to tear the drat room open just for that.
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Dec 2, 2020 19:47
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Motronic posted:It's unlikely to be a bit of wet subfloor around your toilet that is covered in a layer of flooring. Especially not if you've fixed the toilet leak and allowed that floor to dry out (stick a box fan in the basement pointed at it for a week or so). I've had a similar thought. The toilet leak is not yet fixed so I'm still hoping it's just that, combined with nothing being particularly well sealed. Of course the fact that I don't smell it when I'm underneath and can see the rot kind of kills that idea... It's a little powder room. Just the toilet and vanity/sink. No bathroom above it or anything either. So the toilet is my main thought, but perhaps something is lurking behind the vanity. I would not be surprised in the slightest based on everything else I've found.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:00
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OK! That's my plan. I have a bad habit of letting scope creep anyways.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:05
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Motronic posted:This is literally a 30 minute job. Go buy one of these:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Better-Than-Wax-Universal-Wax-Free-Toilet-Seal-7530P24/205762183 and a package of this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917 Yep yep, I have these things. This fix wasn't already done cause my shut off is broken. But I got the parts I need for that, too. I was just saying, I tend to let these things grow instead. I'm Hal in that clip we all know.
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Dec 2, 2020 21:09
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Toilet up. So PO used a pile of chips of shims - yes, a pile of chips of shims not just shims - to... attempt...? to level the toilet? Neither bolt was in the flange right. Flange is sitting well below the top of the flooring. Looks like screws holding the flange down have no purchase, I think stripped or rot? It's not really secure to floor. So I think I need flange extension(s), and new screws. If it is the wood, do I have any options for securing the flange to the damaged wood? New shut off valve is workin nice! Jenkl fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 3, 2020 |
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Dec 3, 2020 02:03
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drat mo thanks this better than wax thing does have a spacer included. I'll need to double check it's deep enough. And I do have some scraps, plus longer screws. Thanks!
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Dec 3, 2020 02:07
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 09:00 |
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There are high-temperature silicone caulks for sealing. For insulating, rockwool would work I believe. My first troubleshooting question would be, does it have power at all?
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Dec 5, 2020 04:26
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