HycoCam posted:That is 100% the knock out for your drain. That plug was supposed to be removed after passing rough-in. Gab it with a pair pliers and twist while pulling it out. With that in place--if your tub overfills, it isn't going to stop overfilling. Do y'think it's hooked up?
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 17:28 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 03:33 |
As a bosch-800-series-haver, yes, they are ace. And so god drat quiet. Anything 500-series and up will blow your mind, you wouldn't think a dishwasher would do that, but it will. Obviously bragging a little, you would too e: lol, in the bosch video they remove the rack and the sprayer? You don't even have to do that, just reach in and pull the filter. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Oct 28, 2020 |
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 17:50 |
Dunkelbrau posted:Oof, good job flippers I bought this place from. Thanks! Now I'm genuinely concerned that it's not hooked up. Proceed with caution.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 18:09 |
H110Hawk posted:Buy a Bosch. And stop prewashing your dishes, just get the solids off. Even then don't overthink it. Bosch even explicitly warns you about washing your dishes before loading them because if you do, the sensor won't see the crud. Just stick that poo poo in there, raw-dog your dishwasher, it likes it that way
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 19:56 |
I think page four of the manual even suggests you talk dirty to the dishwasher while loading your dishes. Freakin' Germans, man.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 20:11 |
Damnit, now you got me looking at Bosch appliances. Ranges and ovens of all sorts and so on. The dishwasher was a gateway drug.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2020 04:40 |
We used North American Van Lines and have no real complaints. I think we claimed three things were damaged: an unframed canvas painting, a headboard from a crib, and some fabric on one of our couches. We had the insurance on it though and they either repaired (headboard) or paid out (couch, painting) without fuss. This was like 60% of the 40' trailer, it was a lot of stuff, so I'm not surprised there were damages, poo poo's gonna happen on a thousand mile drive. Full disclosure: our move was an insured flat rate since it was paid for by work. But man it was nice to not have to pack all our poo poo, we just hung out with the family while the house slowly disappeared into boxes, and then the reverse at the other end.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2020 05:04 |
It looks like the overflow on a tub? With maybe some clear silicone growing mold? Why would there be silicone there?
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2020 03:11 |
Probably just meeting code requirements for grade. Has to be sloped away from the house. The existence of the roof above doesn't matter.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2020 15:53 |
mr.belowaverage posted:I can see that argument, but it’s just dumped on the existing grade, which is basically flat all around the house. Does it count as proper slope when you just put a mound of dirt up against the house? I believe so. Certainly has for the few foundation/grade inspection projects I’ve been involved in.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2020 06:49 |
Waterproofed comms hookup for an RV or similar?
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2020 04:19 |
Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Natural-Bookshelf-Organizer-Bookcase/dp/B07RVNBJYQ/ref=sr_1_8 or one of the countless products associated with it? "desktop shelf cubby" was how I got to that one, not sure how big you need but that might get you on the right track, unless you're after something more industrial. Monitor stands may also be worth looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Monitor-Computers-Printers-Organizer/dp/B07FF11VV2/ref=sr_1_17 Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Nov 17, 2020 |
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2020 23:36 |
Just something like this then, perhaps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YXL5IPY/ref=twister_B010NNOUKO?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 Each of those squares is 13.5x13.5, and you can get these sorts of shelves literally everywhere, of whatever layout, color, and quality you want. 3x2 as above, or 1x2 or 1x3 or 4x2 or 3x6 or whatever, really. Equally available are bins of all sorts that fit them. These combined with the various trendy bins are a widespread fad right now so they're super available, it's like the sliding barn door of storage or something. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2020 03:23 |
Anyone want to help me diagnose my riding mower engine that won't start? It's a Kohler 7000-series in a cub cadet. The symptom: pressing the key, the lights and dash display come on, and a second later, I hear a faint click, but nothing else. Start motor doesn't even try to move. I've made sure I'm activating the safety interlock on the seat and the brake. The dash displays errors for those if I'm not. The lights come on, so I know I'm getting juice to the system in general. I put the battery on a charger, it said it was good to go, and I left it for a day on there anyhow. Didn't help anything. I also tried starting it with the charger in starter assist mode, which is like 60A, and got the same response. Based on some googling, I decided it was the starter solenoid, the one just off the battery that provides power to the starter itself. My voltmeter, from the post on the starter itself to a random bare screw on the chassis, said 0V when I had my wife sit on the seat and attempt to start it, so that tracked. No juice to the starter, it's not gonna do anything. That's a $30 part, so I gave it a shot. Swapped that out, pretty easy, tried again and...nothing, same response. On a whim, I grabbed a jumper cable and put that on the positive battery terminal and then touched it to the post on the starter motor. It went for it! Couldn't actually turn the motor over, but it sure tried, and I suspect it just had a poo poo connection and maybe some other electronics weren't engaged. But the point is, that starter motor is alive and kicking. So if the starter motor is alive, and the battery is good, and there's a brand new starter solenoid in there, what the hell else could it be? Software?!
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 19:35 |
It’s only a few years old, and everything looks drat near new inside, no corrosion or anything, just a little dust. There’s actually a voltage readout on the dash, says 12.4 when it’s on, and drops to like 12.3 when attempting to start. I’ll check with an actual voltmeter the same way when I get home. Gonna make sure I didn’t mix up the control pins on the solenoid when I installed it, too. Not sure how I could, there’s not really enough slop in the wiring harness, but I’ll check the connections there either way. When I did the starter assist with the charger, that was with the charger on the battery posts, so in parallel with the battery. When I attempted to jump the starter directly, that was just the battery alone. Also, is there a better way to do that without throwing sparks?
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 20:26 |
Final Blog Entry posted:I had a simular issue with my Cub Cadet I thought was the battery which ended up testing good at an auto parts store. There ended up being a fuse mounted inline on one of the wires that had blown. Might be worth checking for. There is a 20A auto fuse mounted in-line just off the battery, but that looked good as well. Basically, if I can’t figure it out tonight, I’m just gonna call it an “oh well I tried” and drop it off at the place I bought it tomorrow morning. They’re pretty awesome and won’t gently caress me around or anything, it’ll just be a week or two before I get it back and I should have mowed last weekend.
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 20:29 |
It’s a hydrostatic transmission or whatever so no, it’s not engaged until you hit the go pedal. PTO doesn’t engage unless you press the PTO button, for which there’s a safety interlock as well, and it pops an error on the dash if you try to start with that on. I’m a little wary of this whole thing because there’s a lot of computer in here, like, even starting it isn’t closing a circuit to the starter solenoid, you press a button and it’s actually telling the computer to do that, so it runs whatever checks, and then turns on, so I’m inherently suspicious that the computer has decided to not cooperate based on some of the behavior here. Gonna try jumping it off the truck, though, that’s not a bad idea.
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 21:39 |
Hey boys, we got it! I guess the crank assist on my charger is just poo poo, jumping it off the truck got it going with relatively little fuss. New battery it is!
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 22:30 |
The contacts are lovely, no corrosion at all, like they’re darn near pretty. I’ll bring the battery along when I go to replace it, have them check it just to be sure. Either way, now I’m not delivering the thing to the shop just for them to call me in a week telling me my battery is shot. That’d be almost disappointing. The worst part of all this is that I ended up with a spare solenoid? And by all accounts, those DO go kaput from time to time, so now I have a spare all ready to go. I’ll call this a net win. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 23:38 |
Small?! I have the souls of 26 purebred race horses trapped within this thing, how dare you
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2021 23:54 |
I just store all my chainsaws on those cleanup towels made specifically for petroleum products, works fine.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2021 01:27 |
Sounds like you need a lock out tag out system for your bar oil cap...
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2021 05:47 |
The cables didn’t snap? Like they’re still attached? Betcha your spring broke, if you get up there and look at it you may find you now actually have two springs!
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2021 19:28 |
Debris from poorly cut pipe? Like if you have CPVC or something. Hopefully your builders didn’t just use straight PVC. But it does kinda look like fuzz from poorly hacksawed/non-de-burred PVC maybe. e: Have you taken the aerator off any of your faucets lately? Might be interesting to see if that crud is system-wide or local to this one fixture. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Apr 18, 2021 |
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2021 13:31 |
If those are actual tongue and groove boards, they’re gonna be like 1/2” thick, and you can just mount your poo poo right on ‘em, I’d say. Use a toggle bolt or similar anchoring solution if you wanna be hardcore. e: read the last bit of your post. As long as you use good anchors, yes, you’re golden. But really if the stuff is 1/2 or 5/8 or whatever, just get some screws in there. Don’t use little #8 drywall screws or whatever, get something a little bigger diameter for bite. Some 1/4” short lags would do fiiiiine. Just don’t overtighten and strip the holes. This would, of course, leave 1/4” holes, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and guess that’s okay here. Just make sure your lags are fully threaded and don’t have a shoulder, so you have threads all through the wood. But in the 1-2” length that’s probably a gimme. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2021 23:12 |
Yep, those lags will do you splendidly. To wit: I clad the inside of my shop in 3/4” OSB specifically so I could mount poo poo all over the walls by just screwing into it. That includes a small lumber rack. The problem with people just mounting to walls normally is when they just screw into drywall or use weak anchor styles or set the TV on a glued-on mantle. You have maybe the MOST convenient situation for wall mounting here. Tell your studs to gently caress off and lag it in, enjoy By short lags I just mean “you don’t need lag screws that are 5” long.” The shoulder is the part of the screw near the head that is unthreaded, your lags there don’t have shoulders and are perfect. And may well be exactly 1/4”. Yeehaw! Here’s a lag screw with a shoulder: I think you can imagine the problem if that shoulder was too long and went all the way through the wood, such that the only thing the threads were in contact with was air. Also that’s some sweet beefy tongue and groove you got there, this all worked out nicely in your favor, you can mount the tv wherever the hell you want on that wall, studs be damned. Those screws probably won’t be long enough to gently caress with any electrical, either. Probably. Still try to locate wires if you can. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Apr 19, 2021 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2021 23:27 |
I’m legit happy for you, that’s a very convenient situation, turns out. As long as the t&g is sufficiently well-attached to the wall Thats a pretty low bar in this case...if it doesn’t wiggle or bend when you push on the spot you want to mount, you’re surely good
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2021 23:38 |
Why would running a circuit off a gfci be illegal? As long as you wire it such that the gfci outlet also protects your new branch. That’s literally how they protect other outlets in your bathroom.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 02:34 |
Ah, yeah, I didn’t think of heating and draw. That makes sense. If it were just a general purpose outlet, that’d be a different story, I think.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 03:19 |
Elviscat posted:just don't blow dry your hair and squirt your butt at the sane time What are you, the cops?
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2021 13:47 |
Aren’t we all
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# ¿ May 1, 2021 03:10 |
Don’t we all
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# ¿ May 1, 2021 03:28 |
Cross-posting from plumbing: Any thoughts on un-stucking a water heater anode that's seized in? I can't seem to break it loose with an 18" bar, but I'm reluctant to put an impact driver on it.
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# ¿ May 19, 2022 21:16 |
Roger that, I’ll try again with a friend and an extension. I was wary of loving it up and finding myself staring down a new heater. Is the impact option likely to be bad news bears? Like, I’m willing to start there if that’s a better option.
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# ¿ May 19, 2022 21:35 |
Motronic posted:I mean, you're always potentially staring down a new heater when you're doing this. It's the nature of the beast. If they were changed out more regularly it wouldn't be such a big deal, but they never are so welp. Buddy has a plug-in electric one, might give it a try.
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# ¿ May 19, 2022 22:13 |
SimpliSafe is a fairly popular brand of home security/monitoring products, they’re all DIY installation and thus battery powered, and I know a water leak/flood sensor is among their lineup.
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# ¿ May 29, 2022 22:31 |
tangy yet delightful posted:Not sure what features I'll get from it without buying into their hub and/or monitoring but I might just spend the $20 off amazon and return it if I don't like it, thanks. Yeah I know you can do a little bit of local monitoring/alarming without paying for the service, but I think it might still require the hub.
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# ¿ May 30, 2022 23:13 |
meatpimp posted:Edit3: Bingo. Jumpering those two terminals and the electromagnet kicks in and holds contact. Thanks thread, I guess I just needed to type my thoughts out. Rubber ducking at its finest.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2022 22:52 |
A mattock can do wonders for cutting into that poo poo, and since you said “3’ pit” you might actually have room to swing it a fair ways down.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2022 22:21 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 03:33 |
Could mount a board on the wall, secured to the studs, then mount the bar on that.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2022 00:14 |