Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


I'm picking up the keys to my first house in a half hour (oh God what have I done) and first up: the place I'm renting now has a electronic deadbolt aka a pushbutton pin kind with no phone app nonsense, no fingerprints.

It's honestly pretty handy and I'd like to put one on my house. Can anyone recommend one that is similarly not-too-smart (I really don't need to use my phone as a NFC key), but also not vulnerable to Lockpicking Lawyer with a paperclip?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


H110Hawk posted:

Buy the one your current place has? Otherwise the Samsung ones used to get high marks.

I've looked into it briefly but it seems to be old enough to have been discontinued in favor of more IoT-ey models.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Tezer posted:

My recommendation is always Emtek because they only use the battery to engage/disengage the bolt and not to actually retract it (you do that with a thumb turn) so the battery last forever. I’ve also installed Yale and Baldwin for clients.

Thanks I'll take a look!

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Say you've got an electrical box that isn't flush with the wall, and the drywall was cut back a bit too far for the tabs on the outlet to sit against. Instead of having an outlet somewhat floating/having play, is it kosher to use nylon spacers on the screws to give it something to tighten against?

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011



I was thinking of these:

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=3/8%20nylon%20spacer

I'll see about getting some of those ones you linked, thanks!

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Is there a spring loaded flap on the ice chute that normally stays shut and minimizes air exchange into the freezer?

Said spring was broken on my fridge so the flap just dangled open and it let in all kinds of house air which was resulting in lots more ice buildup as well as a slow trickle of melt water.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Yeah go get some two part epoxy that is used to bond rebar into drilled holes in mass concrete and that projector will stay up there through the apocalypse.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


My propane company was happy to send out a guy to install the conversion kit on my dryer when I moved, have you checked with them?

Arrath fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 12, 2024

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Is it frost proof by somehow turning itself on to a trickle if it starts to freeze up? :v:

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Oh cool, that's pretty clever.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Talk to me about recaulking around a tub or shower pan: any tips tricks or pitfalls? What cleaning or prep do I need to do after scraping out the old gunk?

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


facialimpediment posted:

I have the video just for you!

https://youtu.be/AcgErpZ_D0c?si=pggHaMFrOBKzt4eO

Since I am absolute poo poo at making clean caulk lines, the painter's tape trick has helped me several times. Lots of different opinions on cleaners to spray/put down before recaulking.

You're the best, thanks!

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


My washer and dryer are in an alcove off the kitchen with some dead space above. I'd like to gain more storage by building shelves in there with the expedient of "plywood supported by say 2x2's along the sides and back edge", is there a rule of thumb for deciding what size plywood I should use for it to have that unsupported front span without bowing?

Figuring on storing laundry items and kitchen sundries like the spare paper towels and what not, nothing super heavy.

Alternate answer: don't be lazy, build a support at the middle.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Imbroglio posted:

The Sagulator (https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) is generally what you want for questions like this. I don't know exactly how to model the back edge support with it though.

Oh that's handy as hell, thanks!

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


PainterofCrap posted:

How wide? I assume no more than 14" deep so you're not clouting your head whilst working the laundry.

What are you planning to load it/them with?

If the span is the width of both units (maybe 4' max) you can't go wrong with 3/4" plywood if you're putting ten gallons of laundry detergent up there.

Bonus is you can go with one of those giant-rear end bottles with a spigot on the bottom front & just drop the detergent straight into the (top-load) washer directly.

The width of both units so in the 4-5' range, I don't have the measurements in front of me. They're front loaders so the shelf might be upwards of 24" deep, though that is a fair point. If I were to get a top-load washer at some point that would be a head banger. I was thinking 3/4" just for the sheer strength of it.

But yeah, detergent, dryer sheets, misc stain removal extras, basic kitchen stuff that can be stashed up there. Nothing terribly heavy beyond the detergent.

Dead Pressed posted:

Consider a French cleat system. Modular and has plenty of room for supports depending on how you set it up. I'm building one for my master closet this weekend!

https://youtu.be/QYbexqIH4IY?si=aVNwjQ8e2Qfqjkrd

Wow that would be awesome, it would handily solve the 'what if i get a top-loader later' problem though it is beyond my tooling situation at least at the moment. Hmmm.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


devicenull posted:

So what I'm hearing is you have a reason to buy more tools? Where's the problem?

The self fulfilling prophecy. I'm trying to build these shelves for more storage, so I need more tools to build the shelves but then I need more storage for the tools...

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Theoretically speaking how bad of an idea is it to use the existing flexi hose on my in-wall dryer vent to plug my leaf blower in and just blast the air through?

I mean, it doesn't look too terrible in there but for some godawful reason in a ground floor w/d installation the vent immediately runs 7 1/2ft vertical before making a 9ft lateral to the exterior wall.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Dr. Lunchables posted:

Yeah, I wasn’t asking you, but rather in a rhetorical sense. I clean mine, but I know other people have never considered it. The gasket on front loaders presents a great opportunity for mold growth if you don’t clean it.

I'm currently struggling with that in my new house! Previous owner may not have ever bothered to clean it so the gasket is totally shot through with mold and I'm about ready to throw in the towel on cleaning this mother.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Motronic posted:


Once it starts eating away at the gasket its time to replace it. The gasket is supposed to be smooth so it dries quickly and evenly. Now that yours is pockmarked with craters it doesn't matter how clean you get it, it's a perfect mold growing environment. appliancepartspros.com has been my go-to for tracking down diagrams and part numbers. Then put the part number in google to see who has it for how much. Lots of times they have the best price too, but definitely not always.

Thanks! I'll give them a look.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Random aside: why are wax rings still used? Surely modern materials sicence has come up with something better? Is wax just good enough and that much cheaper than some automotive or nasa solid rocket booster inspired gasket?

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Yeah that's about what I expected, thanks everyone.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


The Dave posted:

You could also set up an elaborate Rube Goldberg machine that ends with squeezing the trigger of a loaded handgun that is pointed at the vent.

A squirrel catapult is both quieter and more fun.

VVV: a specific jar of pb just for the traps is exactly what my dad did when I was a kid, for that exact reason.

Arrath fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Feb 29, 2024

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


tuyop posted:

Yeah it’s a really awesome idea to strap a cutting laser to a 3D printer.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


tangy yet delightful posted:

I inherited (with this house I bought) a basketball goal that is concreted into the ground. The post broke in half a while back now and I want to rip out the remaining post. Dug around it today to uncover the concrete which is about 4ft x 3ft and about 4" thick at the edges, figuring the middle will be a bit thicker. My pickaxe attempts have made me think I'm best off renting an electrical (15amp) "70# Breaker" from the local tool place.

I've never used one before, beyond hearing and eye pro, is there anything I should be aware of going into this?

If you wanna go full safety conscious: steel toe boots and metatarsal guards won't go far amiss either.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Me, coming across ancient abandoned-in-place poo poo that the contractor 40 years ago didn't bother to redline on some as-builts: :mad:

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


If you insist on doing it yourself (e: using a fence post driver), wear hearing protection cause that is right in front of your face and loud when you're really slamming on it.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


yippee cahier posted:

Skipping the hanging part means you can make each bay wider, storing 2-3 totes beside each other if you use 2x4s. You’ll have the vertical rail support pieces in the way if you try to retrofit to standard shelving later.

I wonder if the hanging aspect making it strictly limited to those totes is on purpose. Keeps you from just cramming any random poo poo onto the shelf over time.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


A MIRACLE posted:

fire extinguisher?

Several! I would recommend at least larger ones in the kitchen and garage, then if you wanna go overboard a smaller one near your furnace/water heater (if they're gas and not in the garage) and one in your bedroom that you can grab as you go to investigate a 3am smoke detector alarm.

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


Lester Shy posted:

Is ~half an acre too much for a push mower? My lot is .7 acres and I'm guessing about 75% of that is lawn. I'm not an outdoor type person, but I think I'm paying too much to have it done. I don't want to invest $2k+ in a riding mower, but one of the Ryobi self-propelled electric mowers would pay for itself after a few months. I'm also leaning towards the electric model so I could potentially mow at like 5 in the morning before it gets hot and not piss off the neighbors.

Having spent my teenage years using a push mower on our 2 acre property that was not remotely flat, I'd say its not a problem. On the other hand, my dad finally bought a tractor after the free labor us kids moved out, the wily old bastard.

So yeah, a self propelled mower would do the trick pretty well.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Arrath
Apr 14, 2011


For what it's worth a 4' hole will probably be more than you can do in a 'single pass' with the auger, requiring you to remove the power pack, attach another section of corkscrew, reattach the power unit, and the opposite when you finish the hole. A fiddly process that adds time to each hole.

Consider that with a 4' auger you'll need every inch to get the hole, requiring you to bend over and drill right to the shank with the unit on the ground. A 6' auger means you'll start with the sucker at face level where it's a lot more unwieldy to control and start the hole true.

E: yeah the skid steer mounted auger would be aces

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply